NovaTac 120E Nichia 219B

48 posts / 0 new
Last post

Pages

CRX
CRX's picture
Offline
Last seen: 51 min 55 sec ago
Joined: 04/02/2013 - 15:27
Posts: 3815
Location: Scotland
NovaTac 120E Nichia 219B

I modified this light for a fellow member who wanted it stripped and a Nichia NVSL219BT-V1 4000K 90+ CRI emitter installed.
Original Light:
Low – 10 lm, 140 cd
Med – 30 lm, 420 cd
High – 106 lm, 1520 cd

Disassembled the light and added protection for the area’s to remain anodized, best to keep the ano on the threads for wear & lockout etc and need to keep it on inner body tube for light to function due to the spring supplying voltage to the electronic switch in the tail. Then a bath in oven cleaner.Installed carbon fibre wrap in the battery tube and a sticky back felt ring at the bottom to help retain the spring in the light when changing the cell.

Filed down a 16mm Noctigon to shape as the cutout in the pill is an odd shape for the very old SSC emitter?, reflowed the Nichia, fixed MCPCB in place with arctic alumina, checked polarity, soldered wires and applied kapton tape over the top of the pill as the reflector sits directly on top.Pill installed with Artic Silver Ceramique 2, rebuilt & cleaned up switch, kapton tape, cleaned up all contacts, re-lubed threads and o-rings with silicone grease.A lot of polishing & tweaks later the light looks like this Smile
Nichia 219B:
Low – 26 lm, 280 cd
Med – 100 lm, 950 cd
High – 310 lm, 3100 cd
This is an older light, predecessor to the HDS lights I believe and built like a tank.
It was nice to work on and is quite respectable now with the increased output and good tint due to the new emitter.

See Also:

NovaTac SPA Defense SPL-120 - Nichia 219C 4000K - 18350.NovaTac SPL-120 - Nichia 219C 4000K - SD - 18350 - E- Sw - 435lm.

NovaTac 120T Triple Nichia 219C 5000K - H17Fx - 18350 - Tail Clicky.NovaTac 120T - Triple Nichia 219C 5000K - H17Fx - 18350 - Rv Clicky Sw - 2300lm.

NovaTac 120P Triple Nichia 219C 4000K 90CRI H17-Fx - 18350 - Tail Clicky.NovaTac 120P EDC Triple Nichia 219C 4000K 90CRI - H17-FX - 18350 - Rv Clicky Tail Sw - 1800Llm.

 
 
Edited by: CRX on 09/10/2019 - 00:14
MRsDNF
MRsDNF's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 hours 30 min ago
Joined: 12/22/2011 - 21:18
Posts: 12988
Location: A light beam away from the missus in the land of Aus.

Orsm mod CRX. Love the multi look. Thumbs Up

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

LightRider
LightRider's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 year 7 months ago
Joined: 08/05/2015 - 09:52
Posts: 2007
Location: U.P. MI, USA

Very cool! I’m always excited to see one of your new mods post:)

What did you use to remove the ano and what did you use to protect the inside of the tubes? I see something stuffed in there but can’t make out what it is:)

saypat
saypat's picture
Online
Last seen: 1 min 16 sec ago
Joined: 07/13/2011 - 20:32
Posts: 3518
Location: Calif

Bet he is happy with the outcome, I am!

dumb question but is the increase in lumens due only to the change in emitter?

CRX
CRX's picture
Offline
Last seen: 51 min 55 sec ago
Joined: 04/02/2013 - 15:27
Posts: 3815
Location: Scotland
MRsDNF wrote:
Orsm mod CRX. Love the multi look. Thumbs Up
Beer

.

LightRider wrote:
Very cool! I’m always excited to see one of your new mods post:)

What did you use to remove the ano and what did you use to protect the inside of the tubes? I see something stuffed in there but can’t make out what it is:)

I used oven cleaner to strip it, that’s plasticine stuffed inside and tape/gorilla tape on the tube ends.

.

saypat wrote:
Bet he is happy with the outcome, I am!

dumb question but is the increase in lumens due only to the change in emitter?

Yes, just the new emitter, still the same driver.

lumenzilla
lumenzilla's picture
Offline
Last seen: 4 days 12 hours ago
Joined: 06/09/2015 - 04:18
Posts: 712
Location: DIY, Indonesia

Nice mode, I’ve swapped my Novatac 120T’s LED with XPG R5 as well.
Will try convert it into triple Nichias.

ven
ven's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 days 5 hours ago
Joined: 09/09/2016 - 11:39
Posts: 680
Location: Manchester

Amazing work, really is, attention to detail and perfection is 2nd to none. Really appreciate your help on breathing life into an old classic. The weak cold CT with a little blue has been turned into a usable hi cri light for the next 10yrs+

Thumbs Up
CRX
CRX's picture
Offline
Last seen: 51 min 55 sec ago
Joined: 04/02/2013 - 15:27
Posts: 3815
Location: Scotland

Cool, I’m happy that you’re happy with it mate Thumbs Up

Ozythemandias
Offline
Last seen: 2 weeks 56 min ago
Joined: 09/21/2016 - 08:33
Posts: 302
lumenzilla wrote:
Nice mode, I’ve swapped my Novatac 120T’s LED with XPG R5 as well. Will try convert it into triple Nichias.

I’d love to turn mine into a triple. Please document and photograph it! or just do mine for cash! Smile

 

ven
ven's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 days 5 hours ago
Joined: 09/09/2016 - 11:39
Posts: 680
Location: Manchester

Over the moon steve, totally changed it for the better. The low mode of 26lm is pretty much perfect, so its just a click on/off for use as enough output for most my needs(general edc type). Double tap for 100lm then ample,still the turbo of 300lm is nice to have………

Someone say triple……………. Big Smile

CRX
CRX's picture
Offline
Last seen: 51 min 55 sec ago
Joined: 04/02/2013 - 15:27
Posts: 3815
Location: Scotland

Great, is the spring retainer good, working ok? I didn’t like the way it just fell out when changing cells.

A triple would be nice, would need to check the depth of the angled reflector though and the driver might be potted in there, something with a bit more power would probably be better anyway so you could install a new driver, clicky switch, triple and run it on 18350 cells Smile

ven
ven's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 days 5 hours ago
Joined: 09/09/2016 - 11:39
Posts: 680
Location: Manchester

Been great, no issues at all and spring has stayed put. Kind of a crazy design really, but must have been necessary back in the day and with this design for contact.

Defo up for a triple 219bt 4000k at some point Cool , will enjoy it as is for now. The h17f driver would be a lot better than the single/double click and press hold UI.

CRX
CRX's picture
Offline
Last seen: 51 min 55 sec ago
Joined: 04/02/2013 - 15:27
Posts: 3815
Location: Scotland

Cool, I didn’t mean a triple for yours, just meant it would be a nice host for it if someone else was thinking of doing it Smile

weklund
weklund's picture
Online
Last seen: 1 min 39 sec ago
Joined: 08/16/2014 - 10:32
Posts: 766
Location: Orange, Ca.

Very nice work … I am a big fan of the “Ole” Novatac. I EDC mine quite a bit.

... Happy Landings ...

Sledgestone
Offline
Last seen: 8 hours 45 min ago
Joined: 11/07/2015 - 06:55
Posts: 602
Location: Sweden

You really sent it to the right guy, Ven!

lumenzilla
lumenzilla's picture
Offline
Last seen: 4 days 12 hours ago
Joined: 06/09/2015 - 04:18
Posts: 712
Location: DIY, Indonesia
Ozythemandias wrote:
I’d love to turn mine into a triple. Please document and photograph it! or just do mine for cash! Smile

Sorry I forgot to take picture during the process, but here’s the final result.

I use a coin sized copper as the base (heat dissipation won’t be great though) and using rubber silicon to wrap 20 mm TIR optic to fit the host.

Triple nichias and optic were bought from Kaidomain.

jon_slider
jon_slider's picture
Offline
Last seen: 32 min 44 sec ago
Joined: 09/08/2015 - 12:20
Posts: 2343
Location: Crowdifornia

CRX wrote:
Great, is the spring retainer good, working ok? I didn’t like the way it just fell out when changing cells.

A triple would be nice, would need to check the depth of the angled reflector though and the driver might be potted in there, something with a bit more power would probably be better anyway so you could install a new driver, clicky switch, triple and run it on 18350 cells Smile

ven wrote:
Been great, no issues at all and spring has stayed put. Kind of a crazy design really, but must have been necessary back in the day and with this design for contact.

Defo up for a triple 219bt 4000k at some point Cool , will enjoy it as is for now. The h17f driver would be a lot better than the single/double click and press hold UI.

My guess is the spring still exists in the HDS design to this day, as a wire, because it provides power to the Electronic switch. If it had a mechanical switch, the spring could go away, and an 18350 could be used..

all with just a little more CRX magic

outstanding writeup and pics, thanks!

lumenzilla wrote:
Ozythemandias wrote:
I’d love to turn mine into a triple. Please document and photograph it! or just do mine for cash! Smile

Sorry I forgot to take picture during the process, but here’s the final result.

I use a coin sized copper as the base (heat dissipation won’t be great though) and using rubber silicon to wrap 20 mm TIR optic to fit the host.

Triple nichias and optic were bought from Kaidomain.

Holly Tripple, Wow!

CRX
CRX's picture
Offline
Last seen: 51 min 55 sec ago
Joined: 04/02/2013 - 15:27
Posts: 3815
Location: Scotland

I believe it could be possible, maybe by clearing the stock driver board and connecting the MTN driver to the appropriate contacts.
I haven’t opened the pill on one of these so don’t know how it is inside but would imagine there would be space for a 14mm or 15mm driver?

jon_slider
jon_slider's picture
Offline
Last seen: 32 min 44 sec ago
Joined: 09/08/2015 - 12:20
Posts: 2343
Location: Crowdifornia
Rm404 wrote:
Would the driver mtn electronics sells with emisar d4 ui work with the electronic switch, if you chose to swap out the stock driver? Instead of putting in a mechanical clicky switch?

I dont know the answer to your questions, and look forward to learning more.

ven wrote:
The h17f driver would be a lot better than the single/double click and press hold UI.

I would like to learn more about options like the H17f driver in a Novatac, I dont know the pros and cons of that option, Im hoping CRX will come up with some real world testing soon..

My main interest would be to find a driver, with ramping UI, or at least programmable, that did not use any PWM below 3000Hz, and that would not have other types of visible flicker. afaik the D4 driver uses PWM, I think the H17f does too, but I have not owned any lights with those drivers, so have not had opportunity to test them with my phone camera, and my eyes.

Im very interested in coming up with a viable option to drive a tripple Nova with a NoPWM, NoFlicker driver, and that has a more intuitive UI than the Novatac or HDS. One that could be handed to a newbie with simple instructions, like, click on, click off, hold to ramp brighter..

e1000
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 42 min ago
Joined: 04/07/2018 - 19:57
Posts: 190
Location: LA, CA

Is there a trick to getting the pill retaining ring loose? Just bought a SPL120 AWLK and the retaining ring refuses to budge.

CRX
CRX's picture
Offline
Last seen: 51 min 55 sec ago
Joined: 04/02/2013 - 15:27
Posts: 3815
Location: Scotland

Long nosed pliers.

e1000
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 42 min ago
Joined: 04/07/2018 - 19:57
Posts: 190
Location: LA, CA

I tried a lens spanner wrench and no luck. Maybe I need to eat lunch first. LOL

CRX
CRX's picture
Offline
Last seen: 51 min 55 sec ago
Joined: 04/02/2013 - 15:27
Posts: 3815
Location: Scotland

Put some effort into it! Big Smile

Nev
Offline
Last seen: 3 months 1 week ago
Joined: 04/06/2017 - 07:50
Posts: 1013
Location: U.K.

e1000 wrote:
I tried a lens spanner wrench and no luck. Maybe I need to eat lunch first. LOL

Have some spinach.
CRX
CRX's picture
Offline
Last seen: 51 min 55 sec ago
Joined: 04/02/2013 - 15:27
Posts: 3815
Location: Scotland

Oh great, now we’ve got Nevs attention Big Smile

Nev
Offline
Last seen: 3 months 1 week ago
Joined: 04/06/2017 - 07:50
Posts: 1013
Location: U.K.

LOL

Lucky you.

e1000
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 42 min ago
Joined: 04/07/2018 - 19:57
Posts: 190
Location: LA, CA

hahahaha. I’m serious I have the head in a vise. Not budging. About to give up.

Nev
Offline
Last seen: 3 months 1 week ago
Joined: 04/06/2017 - 07:50
Posts: 1013
Location: U.K.

Use a big hammer.

e1000
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 42 min ago
Joined: 04/07/2018 - 19:57
Posts: 190
Location: LA, CA

I’m ready to use a blowtorch

CRX
CRX's picture
Offline
Last seen: 51 min 55 sec ago
Joined: 04/02/2013 - 15:27
Posts: 3815
Location: Scotland

I’ve never seen a glued retaining ring in these but could be, maybe a little heat?, (then a big hammer)
Loosen the front bezel a half turn too.

e1000
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 42 min ago
Joined: 04/07/2018 - 19:57
Posts: 190
Location: LA, CA

Yeah. The one I have definitely had threadlocker between the head and the battery tube, so wondering if some of that might have seeped towards the retaining ring. I’ve tried clamping down hard on the outside of the body to see if it might just be frozen in place but again, no luck!

Pages