making a small batch of Texas Avenger "TA" Drivers fully tested running Bistro or Narsil, Clicky or E-switch, SIR800

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Lexel
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50 drivers is just a rough target
I ordered more parts and also some sizes of boards are not taken yet

47 is the number that are definately taken by now

as of today 47 drivers in list parts are limited this way

2 more 15mm boards LFPAK33 FET
3 more Boards with LDO
2 Attiny 85 for Narsil
7 Attiny 25 for Bistro
8 more boards with SIR800 FET
ideally it is possible to make at most 9 more boards (56 total) if at least one 15mm is taken with the smaller FET

to see which parts are availiable I made this Excel sheet

DavidEF
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Thank you again for offering this service to BLF members! I’m still not able to partake of this offer yet, but hopefully some day will get a few of these. Meanwhile, I had a thought. I would like to see one day somebody offering just the MCU’s pre-flashed with some of the latest firmware choices. Richard at Mountain sells pre-flashed chips, but his firmware options don’t include the newest BLF creations, like Bistro and Narsil.

Reason is not automatic. Those who deny it cannot be conquered by it. Do not count on them. Leave them alone.
-Ayn Rand

lostheplot
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2× 22mm if not to late,can use other diameter if no 22.
pm sent

Lexel
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I got spammed today from oshpark

Most of the drivers are shipped now
the ones ordered later will follow next days.

KawiBoy1428
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DavidEF wrote:
Thank you again for offering this service to BLF members! I’m still not able to partake of this offer yet, but hopefully some day will get a few of these. Meanwhile, I had a thought. I would like to see one day somebody offering just the MCU’s pre-flashed with some of the latest firmware choices. Richard at Mountain sells pre-flashed chips, but his firmware options don’t include the newest BLF creations, like Bistro and Narsil.

It would also be cool if somebody offered a top of the line complete kit, with everything needed to flash our own chips, maybe a written step by step instruction sheet too??? Wink Nudge nudge!! Thumbs Up

KB1428 “Live Life WOT”

Lexel
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KawiBoy1428 wrote:
DavidEF wrote:
Thank you again for offering this service to BLF members! I’m still not able to partake of this offer yet, but hopefully some day will get a few of these. Meanwhile, I had a thought. I would like to see one day somebody offering just the MCU’s pre-flashed with some of the latest firmware choices. Richard at Mountain sells pre-flashed chips, but his firmware options don’t include the newest BLF creations, like Bistro and Narsil.
It would also be cool if somebody offered a top of the line complete kit, with everything needed to flash our own chips, maybe a written step by step instruction sheet too??? Wink Nudge nudge!! Thumbs Up

http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1097854#comment-1097854 OP how to maker own hex files.

To compile a hex file in Amtel Studio 7 is the same as in 5

The how to do in Amtsl Studio 5 can lead to errors if the file also needs to load information from the config files, you see more files in the Bistro HD folder

You can simply load the bistroHD.c file
And then start from build in the how to create hex in studio 5
The studio will have also the other files

Rightclick on solution explorer on the right side
Click on add new project,
Remove the main.c
Add existing Item BistroHD.c and the other files from there you can use the how to in the blf topic from comfychair

Comment out or disable just add // in front
Enable remove //

For different pwm channels you need to enable or disable the channels in top section of the file, read the comments on the code lines they tell you what to do

There is only one hex file!
The Amtel studio loads from all those config files what it needs and build a flash code in the hex file

If you got the hex file you need also use the right fuses to flash the driver, most will have add a .bat file to do so

new project

select your Chip

if you use a different than the 25 you need to change that in the BistroHD.c file as well

delete the main.c

getting the files loaded

load all the files for the solution

building the hex file

here you find the hex files

fuses
the text file is from texas Bistro including the whole command prompt to flash

here is the whole project for Amtel Studio 7
including the Attiny25 hex file
http://www.metronixlaser.de/bilder/flashlight/Bistro%20HD.zip

KawiBoy1428
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Now all is needed is the hardware kit made up to be sold!

KB1428 “Live Life WOT”

Lexel
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Ordered 5 more Attiny 85 from German Ebay shop

The USB programmers are availiable on Ali Express for 1.5$
https://de.aliexpress.com/item/USBasp-USBISP-3-3V-5V-AVR-Programmer-USB-...

The clip for chips 3$
http://www.ebay.de/itm/SOIC8-SOP8-Flash-Chip-IC-Test-Clips-Socket-Adpter...

KawiBoy1428
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Lexel wrote:
Ordered 5 more Attiny 85 from German Ebay shop

The USB programmers are availiable on Ali Express for 1.5$
https://de.aliexpress.com/item/USBasp-USBISP-3-3V-5V-AVR-Programmer-USB-...

The clip for chips 3$
http://www.ebay.de/itm/SOIC8-SOP8-Flash-Chip-IC-Test-Clips-Socket-Adpter...


Thank you Lexel! Thumbs Up Ordered 2 of each!!

Anything else I might need? Besides Patience!

KB1428 “Live Life WOT”

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You mentioned bistro in this thread, didn't realize you were using HD, or maybe you're just showing how?

 

I'm sure bistro-HD can be flashed as Lexel shows, but without hardware support for OTSM included in the build, or some other specific feature you're trying to get out of it,  there may not be much point.  It might work well on the eswitch lights, but I haven't even actually tested that yet off a bench, or gotten any feedback.  OTSM is the biggest reason to use it, but I don't think these builds are setup for it, which is kind of reasonable, because although I've tested that well, there's not really any early adopter feedback at the moment that I know of, other than my own (no problems here).

 

Also Lexel, your version and instructions are very outdated. Lot's of bug fixes and changes since those initial releases.  If you've got a particular configuration running fine from that version, then no problem, but if  people want to experiment they absolutely should use the latest one.   The configs were re-organized a few versions back and are separated into different files, with only the attiny version and config file itself being selected at the top of the code.   Anyway, the basic idea presented in your pics should get people going if they also read the included compiling instructions and generally just look around at where things are.  Still to get the main benefit from HD you need the caps and resistors setup for OTSM.

 

The latest version of HD is here,:

http://budgetlightforum.com/node/52798

Looks like you link to something based on 0.2.  Presently latest is 1.3.  I don't think OTSM even worked right in 0.2. Instructions for OTSM hardware requirements are included in the latest Manual.txt, copied in that post.

Lexel
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Today 200 AMC7135 arrived and from last drivers I had 2 boards over
so i could fit the rest of parts to them, 21mm fully reflow soldered, 17mm resistors and Attiny25 hand soldered
while reflow one 7135 (left side of 21mm) on the back shift position, got that fixed, even if it was electrically OK

need to use less paste especially on the FET, like i did on the 2. 17mm driver I did
and add solder with iron to fets pad, as its not easy to push it down and hold still till the solder gets solid with more than one driver under the heat gun later
it is no clean flux but it looks ugly if there is too much of it squeezed out under the FET

final reflow wil be cleaner as I make progress with it

Flintrock wrote:

You mentioned bistro in this thread, didn’t realize you were using HD, or maybe you’re just showing how?


 


I’m sure bistro-HD can be flashed as Lexel shows, but without hardware support for OTSM included in the build, or some other specific feature you’re trying to get out of it,  there may not be much point.  It might work well on the eswitch lights, but I haven’t even actually tested that yet off a bench, or gotten any feedback.  OTSM is the biggest reason to use it, but I don’t think these builds are setup for it, which is kind of reasonable, because although I’ve tested that well, there’s not really any early adopter feedback at the moment that I know of, other than my own (no problems here).


 


Also Lexel, your version and instructions are very outdated. Lot’s of bug fixes and changes since those initial releases.  If you’ve got a particular configuration running fine from that version, then no problem, but if  people want to experiment they absolutely should use the latest one.   The configs were re-organized a few versions back and are separated into different files, with only the attiny version and config file itself being selected at the top of the code.   Anyway, the basic idea presented in your pics should get people going if they also read the included compiling instructions and generally just look around at where things are.  Still to get the main benefit from HD you need the caps and resistors setup for OTSM.


 


The latest version of HD is here,:


http://budgetlightforum.com/node/52798


Looks like you link to something based on 0.2.  Presently latest is 1.3.  I don’t think OTSM even worked right in 0.2. Instructions for OTSM hardware requirements are included in the latest Manual.txt, copied in that post.

I am using TA v1.3 Triple Bistro
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/49481
http://pballandmore.com/Download/2016/Bistro-Texas-Avenger-V1.zip

based on Toykeepers tripledown
http://bazaar.launchpad.net/~toykeeper/flashlight-firmware/tiny25/files/...

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Ok, your posted instructions and the link you provided a few posts up though are for Bistro-HD not TA 1.3, but a very old version of bistro HD. So I think you were just showing that in response to questions about getting recent stuff.

 

FWIW I just updated HD with a one click build script so that importing into Atmel Studio is no longer needed.  You need Atmel Studio installed (or WinAVR), just to have the compiler tools available, but compiling just requires double-clicking the included buildal-AS.bat file.  You can edit configuration files in any editor you like, including Atmel Studio (or even Notepad or maybe Notepad++ which seems very recommended), but again, without the need to import the project or configure options in AS.  This has the added benefit that you are guaranteed to get the same compiler options I used.

 

Also FWIW, the OTSM build in HD use the TA 1.3 modegroups.  The only noticable differences for the basic  OTSM build is just that click timing is far more stable (but only with OTSM components).  The thermal control is also changed a bit in the latest version, and there are three extra modes included.  Otherwise it works like trippledown with TA modes.

Lexel
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Yeah Bistro with OTSM is no option as it requires a quite expensive capacitor and this batch progress is too far advanced to change to OTSM

you can choose soldering paste
lead free 96.5 % tin, 3% silver, and 0.5% copper
or
with lead 62% tin, 36% lead, and 2% silver

Oshpark has all boards from first order shipped, so it wont be long till first drivers go into production
Check the Excel screenshot if the information to your order is right, I keep it up to date dayly

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Yeah, it's a little expensive, maybe adds about $1.70 to compared to OTC build if you're buying small batches. 

 

I'm actually thinking folks may try it with cheaper hardware and see how it goes.  I bought that cap to make sure it would work well, but with like 3 or 4 seconds of sleep time even at low voltage, it works more than well enough.   I like this cap: CL21A476MQMNRNG  Actually my original ceramic build wasn't too terrible, but that was 3 by 16V 10uF caps stacked, not one 6.3V  47uF cap.   Still even a good ceramic cap of that size is  somewhere around $0.60 to $1.00  so maybe $1 saved.

 

I am though thinking of increasing the timing resolution. Unless I do it pretty cleverly that will eat some capacitor time. Using a 500 ohm bleeder can get a little energy back too as possibly.   I have wondered if just using a Ta cap for OTC would stabilize things quite a bit. It's still just annoying form a modding and design perspective, because you have to get the calibration right on every new build, but it may actually work fairly well.

Tom E
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Just fyi... Hoping to get to updating NarsilTriple this week to support the new UI configuration I have in Narsil 2-channel, where the thermal regulation trigger point can be configured.

Not sure yet in the "how to", but would like to combine both Narsil versions into one code base - will be easier maintaining going forward.

If I can get this working, this would also bring 2S battery support into Narsil 3-channel support.

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Tom, that’s a great announcement! Thanks for all the coding work you do for us here at BLF! Narsil is amazing!

Reason is not automatic. Those who deny it cannot be conquered by it. Do not count on them. Leave them alone.
-Ayn Rand

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Thanks! As many as you know, Narsil is built on top of, and using tools by other major contributors.

Roughly, and probably leaving a lot out - Dr Jones, JohnnyC, ToyKeeper, Werner

Also a hugh contribution from BLFers for input on adding features, and others involved in testing and providing feedback.

I should have kept better track of it all... frown

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The leaded solder is FAR better then the tin, both in paste and rod forms.

Also, you can order solder paste stencils from https://www.oshstencils.com/ using the files from oshpark. These make it WAY easier to apply solder paste and is HIGHLY recommended if you are making these in bulk. I assumed you would already be doing this is the only reason I didn’t mention it before.

I would also recommend the stainless steel versions for the top sides at the very least. You can shrink the outside overhang to the minimum they allow for these small drivers as well without an issue.

The Second Amendment is in place in case the politicians ignore the others.

Government is the great fiction, through which everybody endeavors to live at the expense of everybody else. -- Frederic Bastiat , French economist(1801-1850)

Texas Avenger Driver Series

My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5  - Nichia 219C 90+ CRILatticebright "XM-L"XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5  - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT

How I made a True integrating PVC sphere with no math involved

Lexel
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as i am a little short on SIR800 FETs to assemble more drivers

I stripped some FETs from an dead gaming Laptop mainboard
7 nice Infineon that are as good as the SIR800

IRFH7932PbF – Infineon: 3.3mOhms@VGS = 10V
SIR800: 2.3mOhms@VGS = 10 V

http://www.infineon.com/dgdl/irfh7914pbf.pdf?fileId=5546d462533600a40153...

Texas_Ace wrote:
The leaded solder is FAR better then the tin, both in paste and rod forms.

Also, you can order solder paste stencils from https://www.oshstencils.com/ using the files from oshpark. These make it WAY easier to apply solder paste and is HIGHLY recommended if you are making these in bulk. I assumed you would already be doing this is the only reason I didn’t mention it before.

I would also recommend the stainless steel versions for the top sides at the very least. You can shrink the outside overhang to the minimum they allow for these small drivers as well without an issue.

How is it possible to put more board sizes to one stencil foil?

Texas_Ace
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Lexel wrote:
as i am a little short on SIR800 FETs to assemble more drivers

I stripped some FETs from an dead gaming Laptop mainboard
7 nice Infineon that are as good as the SIR800

IRFH7932PbF – Infineon: 3.3mOhms@VGS = 10V
SIR800: 2.3mOhms@VGS = 10 V

http://www.infineon.com/dgdl/irfh7914pbf.pdf?fileId=5546d462533600a40153...

Texas_Ace wrote:
The leaded solder is FAR better then the tin, both in paste and rod forms.

Also, you can order solder paste stencils from https://www.oshstencils.com/ using the files from oshpark. These make it WAY easier to apply solder paste and is HIGHLY recommended if you are making these in bulk. I assumed you would already be doing this is the only reason I didn’t mention it before.

I would also recommend the stainless steel versions for the top sides at the very least. You can shrink the outside overhang to the minimum they allow for these small drivers as well without an issue.

How is it possible to put more board sizes to one stencil foil?

I personally use the NXP FET’s just fine in most of my lights, only the extreme hotrods do I even worry about using the sir800.

You can’t put multiple stencils on a single sheet as far as I know, this would be a question for oshstencil. You could make up a custom stencil by extracting the different pcb paste files and combining them. Although I have no idea how to actually do this easily.

The Second Amendment is in place in case the politicians ignore the others.

Government is the great fiction, through which everybody endeavors to live at the expense of everybody else. -- Frederic Bastiat , French economist(1801-1850)

Texas Avenger Driver Series

My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5  - Nichia 219C 90+ CRILatticebright "XM-L"XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5  - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT

How I made a True integrating PVC sphere with no math involved

Flintrock
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Yeah I've used some cheaper FETs too and not cared.  Most of the time I'd rather spend the $1 on having the controls not be frustrating, but then I don't mind spending it on both.  Infeons in general are not low quality fets though, and hard to even call them inferior.  Actually there are some that are possibly better, although not that one.  That particular one is going to struggle a little when the battery is very low, because it has a high turn on voltage, but the voltage falls so quickly when the batteries are that low anyway, that it's probably the equivalent of running out of battery 1 minute faster, no big deal. 

Lexel
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yeah that Infineon has 12mOhms at 3V

Anyway our TA drivers with Bistro and Narsil have LVP which reduces output anyways ramping down output when the cell gets low, so the FET wont be used at that level

On Narsil you can see it, when Battery is low you can get to DD the brightness raises a lot, then you see 3 blinks and it steps down, 3 blinks next stepdown aso. as the LVP kicks in

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Tom E wrote:

Just fyi… Hoping to get to updating NarsilTriple this week to support the new UI configuration I have in Narsil 2-channel, where the thermal regulation trigger point can be configured.


Not sure yet in the “how to”, but would like to combine both Narsil versions into one code base – will be easier maintaining going forward.


If I can get this working, this would also bring 2S battery support into Narsil 3-channel support.

That would be awesome. I’ve been loving v1 narsil in one of my headlight builds. I’m looking forward to checking out how its matured. I still haven’t got around to learning how to flash drivers, so I’m glad Lexel is whipping these up so I can upgrade to the latest Narsil.

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Good, point, not much use for the FET at low output.  

Lexel
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I got a stupid setback

Tried to do paste on the boards the first were OK, then it gets harder to squeeze out the paste and I get way too thin stuff containing almost flux
then the remaining stuff gets rock solid in the syringe

Crappy stuff they sold me, my lead free 10 year old stuff is better

I recycled some from the syringe and applied it with a toothpick

could do 10 boards with remaining fluxed solder paste

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I had the same thing happen with some of my solder paste. I ordered another tube and so far it has been working fine. I think it is more a matter of age, the older it is, the more it separates.

The Second Amendment is in place in case the politicians ignore the others.

Government is the great fiction, through which everybody endeavors to live at the expense of everybody else. -- Frederic Bastiat , French economist(1801-1850)

Texas Avenger Driver Series

My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5  - Nichia 219C 90+ CRILatticebright "XM-L"XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5  - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT

How I made a True integrating PVC sphere with no math involved

DavidEF
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Texas_Ace wrote:
I had the same thing happen with some of my solder paste. I ordered another tube and so far it has been working fine. I think it is more a matter of age, the older it is, the more it separates.

Yeah, I bought a tube of solder paste from eBay a while back, and it was a bit dried out. They also sent me a tube of just flux as a bonus. I took the ‘needle’ off the tube of solder paste and squeezed it into a cup. Then, I added some of the flux from the other tube and stirred until there were no more lumps. I got as much solder paste as I could back into the tube, and it seems to work fine now. Maybe you can do something similar with yours?

Reason is not automatic. Those who deny it cannot be conquered by it. Do not count on them. Leave them alone.
-Ayn Rand

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I bought some Kester EP256 on ebay. Vestureofblood recommended it in one of his “how to” youtube videos. I’ve only used it a few times but it’s been working great. I’m pretty sure solder paste has a limited shelf life. The one I bought on ebay was fresh when I bought it last year with a date of manufacture written on the tube.
—-

I’ve tried the lead free regular solder, but had a much more difficult time getting nice solder joints with it. So I just stick with the leaded stuff now.

Sorry for the setback. I understand if things get delayed while you wait for additional supplies.

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Thanks for the support of our service budgetlight community in using our stencils at https://www.oshstencils.com

Just a heads up that we also sell solder paste in syringes, similar to the one shown here. We carry only high quality paste for reasonable prices, and are proud to see many of these designs come through our site.

Let us know if you have any questions!

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Thanks Oshpark. Do you have a link to your solder paste etc?

My current and or voltage measurements are only relevent to anything that I measure.

Budget light hobby proudly sponsored by my Mastercard and unknowingly paid for by a hard working wife. 

djozz said "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

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