making a small batch of Texas Avenger "TA" Drivers fully tested running Bistro or Narsil, Clicky or E-switch, SIR800

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Lexel
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so finally reflowed all those 200 AMCs and some MCU sides of 17/20/22mm

in the picture on the left side drivers that are ready to be programmed and tested,
already passed visual check, with some that needed some parts aligned right, remove solder blob shorts between pads

on the right side drivers with AMCs missing as I expect 100 from the last order I added after I got more MCUs and fets to build some extra drivers

I did learning by doing for reflowing drivers
I learned how to apply a tiny but sufficient amount of solder paste with some tricks
just see one of the first vs the last, optical far better, but electrical identical

so we got for programming
1 15mm Narsil
4 17mm Narsil
9 17mm Bistro
1 20mm Bistro
1 20mm Narsil
1 21mm Bistro
3 21mm Narsil
1 22mm Bistro
1 22mm Narsil
12 30mm 2S LDO Narsil
4 30mm 1S Narsil
3 38.5 1S Narsil

Texas_Ace
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At this rate you will surpass myself in the most TA drivers built lol.

The latest drivers do look much better, you don’t need much paste at all. This is why the stencils are so nice, they give you the perfect amount and put it in the perfect spot every time and in a a couple of seconds too boot!

A tip for better reflowing is to reflow the top side components first and heat the pcb from the bottom with about ~350-380c air. First off this lets you use much higher air speeds without blowing components off and it also ensures the best possible connection.

The 7135 side just do like normal from the top of the components. They are much easier to deal with like this.

The Second Amendment is in place in case the politicians ignore the others.

Government is the great fiction, through which everybody endeavors to live at the expense of everybody else. -- Frederic Bastiat , French economist(1801-1850)

Texas Avenger Driver Series

My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5  - Nichia 219C 90+ CRILatticebright "XM-L"XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5  - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT

How I made a True integrating PVC sphere with no math involved

Lexel
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Added indicator resistors to all Narsil drivers

Wiring like in this picture

Lexel
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first driver flashed and under testing and temp calibration

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Lexel
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first 8 Narsil driver cleaned from flux, electrical check
test and temperature calibration

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Lexel
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Input
100 AMC7135
3 17mm boards

Output first orders complete to get shipped

Lexel
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this is now the 3. board witch such an issue
not enough solder mask paint, and I get ground short from back of one AMC7135
costed me 1.5 hours so far

board looks messy when you unsolder those AMCs too often

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Those shorts are almost always a result of too much solder paste. This is why I recommended the stincles. They make it much easier to get the right amount but not too much.

This is a case where less is more.

The mask looks good, the solder looks to have been pushed up from the FET having too much paste.

Generally if you replace the 7135 and reflow it back on it will work fine as that removed a little bit of solder paste when you do that.

The Second Amendment is in place in case the politicians ignore the others.

Government is the great fiction, through which everybody endeavors to live at the expense of everybody else. -- Frederic Bastiat , French economist(1801-1850)

Texas Avenger Driver Series

My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5  - Nichia 219C 90+ CRILatticebright "XM-L"XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5  - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT

How I made a True integrating PVC sphere with no math involved

JasonWW
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Lexel, can you explain what “tactical” means on your spread sheet?

Also, on the drivers with resistors added for LEDs, can you explain the difference between indicator LED and lighted side switch LED?

Thanks

I still haven’t decided which version of Narsil to go with.

My Convoy L6 thread with Texas Avenger FET driver, Narsil ramping firmware, lighted side switch and cut down SMO reflector. Lots of amp draws on stock driver as well.

http://budgetlightforum.com/node/54477

Lexel
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tactical means if you got a tailswitch the light always get in turbo as you turn the power on
there are 3 settings atm for start up, 2 blinks with low mode, turbo and no light

indicator LED blinks out what you configured it in UI settings

lighted sideswitch just lights the switch as soon as you connect the battery with tailswitch, but it has parasitic drain and can overdischarge batteries

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Lexel wrote:
!
this is now the 3. board witch such an issue
not enough solder mask paint, and I get ground short from back of one AMC7135
costed me 1.5 hours so far

board looks messy when you unsolder those AMCs too often

Sorry for the setbacks. I hope you’re having some fun putting these together. I can tell your very organized. I’m sure that has helped make it much less frustrating.

I’m looking forward to having four more lights unified, all running Narsil.

I appreciate the work You, Texas_Ace, TomE and others have done to make these possible. Beer

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Lexel wrote:
tactical means if you got a tailswitch the light always get in turbo as you turn the power on
there are 3 settings atm for start up, 2 blinks with low mode, turbo and no light

indicator LED blinks out what you configured it in UI settings

lighted sideswitch just lights the switch as soon as you connect the battery with tailswitch, but it has parasitic drain and can overdischarge batteries


Okay, mine doesn’t say tactical on the spreadsheet, but it should.
Also, I only need the lighted side switch, so I think Narsil v1.2 is what I should go with. That way I also have the low votage protection.

Thanks

My Convoy L6 thread with Texas Avenger FET driver, Narsil ramping firmware, lighted side switch and cut down SMO reflector. Lots of amp draws on stock driver as well.

http://budgetlightforum.com/node/54477

Lexel
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JasonWW wrote:
Lexel wrote:
tactical means if you got a tailswitch the light always get in turbo as you turn the power on
there are 3 settings atm for start up, 2 blinks with low mode, turbo and no light

indicator LED blinks out what you configured it in UI settings

lighted sideswitch just lights the switch as soon as you connect the battery with tailswitch, but it has parasitic drain and can overdischarge batteries


Okay, mine doesn’t say tactical on the spreadsheet, but it should.
Also, I only need the lighted side switch, so I think Narsil v1.2 is what I should go with. That way I also have the low votage protection.

Thanks

v1.2 has no temperature protection, so if thats Ok for you

Tom E is too busy to make LVP / indicator switch into Narsil triple v1.5

JasonWW
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Lexel wrote:
v1.2 has no temperature protection, so if thats Ok for you

Yes, that’s fine by me. My hand is the temperature protection. Lol

Plus, I’ve recently switched to unprotected Liitokalas for more output so the LVP is more important to me even though I’ll have the lighted side switch to tell me if the rear switch is on or off.

My Convoy L6 thread with Texas Avenger FET driver, Narsil ramping firmware, lighted side switch and cut down SMO reflector. Lots of amp draws on stock driver as well.

http://budgetlightforum.com/node/54477

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These do look great. Thank you for making these for the community.

Lexel
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sent today

Lexel
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reflowed now all boards
tomorrow doing a lot programming and testing

last chance to check if your divers are set up as you wish
when you did not specify any temperature limit it will be set to 60°C

Lexel
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all drivers are now flashed configured and tested
did pack em as well

last chance to check the Excel sheet if everything is right

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Thanks for all your hard work. I’m looking forward to receiving them and building me some awesome lights. Thumbs Up

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electricjelly wrote:
Thanks for all your hard work. I’m looking forward to receiving them and building me some awesome lights. Thumbs Up

+1 Beer

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I posted this in TA's driver thread as well:

So made some  progress on merging Narsil 2 channel and 3 channel, so I have one source code base now with a header file called setups.h. In setups.h, you define all the board configuration settings and other compile time user option settings.

It's compiling now for 2 channel and 3 channel, with indicator LED enabled or disabled, and using R1/R2 or internal V1.1 ref for voltage monitoring.

Totally untested, but it compiles. smile

Next to do is actually try it...

Some Details:

It has the more advanced, simplified version of the configuration settings UI that's in the 2 channel latest version of Narsil, v1.3. One new feature is ability to set the temperature threshold for thermal stepdown. There's probably a couple more tweaks as well in LVP and thermal stepdown, results from more recent testing.

Testing will take some time - may need to actually build up a couple boards, etc.

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Thank you Lexel. You have been epic!! Thumbs Up

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Thank you Lexel once again, your work is truly appreciated !
Can I add a Locator LED if I want to ? Thanks !

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Lexel
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X3 wrote:
Thank you Lexel once again, your work is truly appreciated ! Can I add a Locator LED if I want to ? Thanks !

locator LED with resistor can be simply added to the bleeder resistor pads

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Just little more Narsil update news -

  • no further progress yet - project juggling cry
  • looks like the new BLF GT buck driver that's in the design/proto phase will be a perfect fit for this combined Narsil version - I'm calling it NarsilM for now: Multi-channel configuration
  • the GT buck driver will just be another channel configuration, but with some special needs. Two I/O PWM pins, but slightly different behavior
  • I'm a big fan of the TA triple drivers, so I want/need to get this done!! (as I hit myself over the head...) smile
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Lexel wrote:
X3 wrote:
Thank you Lexel once again, your work is truly appreciated ! Can I add a Locator LED if I want to ? Thanks !

locator LED with resistor can be simply added to the bleeder resistor pads

You will need to add a resistor inline with the LED in this case or it will drain the battery very quickly. A normal through hole resistor could be used easy enough. Something around 30k-50k ohms generally works out ok.

The Second Amendment is in place in case the politicians ignore the others.

Government is the great fiction, through which everybody endeavors to live at the expense of everybody else. -- Frederic Bastiat , French economist(1801-1850)

Texas Avenger Driver Series

My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5  - Nichia 219C 90+ CRILatticebright "XM-L"XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5  - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT

How I made a True integrating PVC sphere with no math involved

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