2017 top 10 professional UV flashlight

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Screwball69N
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2017 top 10 professional UV flashlight

Could some one give a 2017 updated version of top ten professional UV Flashlights and
Also is more LED better then one for a good UV light

HCRI9080
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Good thread !.
I have the s2+ UV from banggood.
No idea where it rates.

Thanks.

Yuji Photon’s 5600/3200.
Sofirm C01’s Yuji 5600/3200 Twisty’s
Nitecore MT06MD 219B
Zebralight SC64c 219B 9080
Armytec Wizard Pro E21A 6500
AAA Optisolis 6500 hcri
Jaxman Z1 Flat White
Zebralight H502pr Photo Red

HCRI9080
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Good thread !.
I have the s2+ UV from banggood.
No idea where it rates.

Thanks.

Yuji Photon’s 5600/3200.
Sofirm C01’s Yuji 5600/3200 Twisty’s
Nitecore MT06MD 219B
Zebralight SC64c 219B 9080
Armytec Wizard Pro E21A 6500
AAA Optisolis 6500 hcri
Jaxman Z1 Flat White
Zebralight H502pr Photo Red

-X3-
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Here is my modest collection of UV flashlights :

From left to right :
- Jetbeam jetµ UV with ZWB2 glass added
- SingFire 348 with 3535 UV LED from BLF member “sorryIforgotyourname” but I don’t think he’s still selling them. Added a ZWB2 glass
- Lumintop IYP365 with Ali 3535 UV LEDwhich seems to be the same that I bought from said BLF member.Added a ZWB2 glass too. Really powerful, I don’t know how much time the LED will survive.
- S2+ shorty 18350 with the same LED and ZWB2 glass too. 700mA driver 1 mode.

They all perform great to show fluorescence and get close to no visible light thanks to the ZWB2.

However, nothing Professional nor directly bought on the shelves…

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I think that all your uv lights perform better than anything professional, X3 Smile

HCRI9080
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what is the difference from say the s2+ UV and a HDS UV light?
something about the HDS being 700..

thanks

Yuji Photon’s 5600/3200.
Sofirm C01’s Yuji 5600/3200 Twisty’s
Nitecore MT06MD 219B
Zebralight SC64c 219B 9080
Armytec Wizard Pro E21A 6500
AAA Optisolis 6500 hcri
Jaxman Z1 Flat White
Zebralight H502pr Photo Red

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ZFL-M60 wrote:
what is the difference from say the s2+ UV and a HDS UV light?
something about the HDS being 700..

thanks


What is the HDS UV light?
Ok, did some googling, The HDS is indeed that very expensive brand, they do carry a ‘forensic blue’ version that puts out 700mW of radiometric power but fail to mention the wavelength (a big fail IMO for a flashlight that you are going to pay $275 for, why not just mentioning it???). Googling further on ‘forensic blue’ does not get you further, I found 390nm, 445nm, and even 470nm Facepalm

Sooo, what is at least the difference? : The S2+ has a 365nm led which puts out invisible light, about 500mW, while the HDS puts out blue or purple light (so 390nm or higher), depending on what wavelength they use (it needs orange glasses filtering out the source wavelength to obtain contrast with the fluorescence). The application for the different wavelengths are different (I’m not a forensics expert). Further, the S2+ uses an up-to-date high output Nichia led, dunno what HDS uses, let’s hope they are up-to-date with what they put into their flashlights. About value for money, for me that is obvious but there are a lot of HDS addicts out there too Smile

mortuus
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i vote for the convoy uv light, really strong and doesnt cost that much, it throws out alot of UV light for sure.

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the convoy UV light has one big drawback with the stock aluminum star, it can get too hot damaging the LED
the used Nichia LED is good, but only rated 90°C and 500mA
and most of the Nichia LEDs have a forward voltage of about 3.8V, so you can use only 1/4 of battery capacity before loosing output

It is driver with 700mA which can be a problem when riunning long on a relative high ambient temperature
OK you get 800-1200mW radiant flux depending on bin

I did use heat on my S2+ UV light another way

there is an easy fix here a custom made copper board which performs a lot better than the stock
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/48934

another option if you go ZWB2 filter anyway is the LiteOn LED that has a dedicated thermal pad,
so it can be used on DTP stars and overdriven easily to 1050mA for about 900-1000mW radiant flux

maybe someone could push it harder to 1.4 or 1.75A on a LED that has a really low forward voltage
My sample has only 3.36V at 700mA forward voltage, so battery can get almost fully drained before light output gets lower
https://www.digikey.de/product-detail/de/lite-on-inc/LTPL-C034UVH365/160...

it will throw less as its emitter is bigger

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One of the things I got addicted to: (thank you, djozz Wink )

And from the bussines end (all 365nm lights have ZWB2 filter)

From left to right:

Powdercoated C8 host from 3Tronics, 395/400nm 5050 Epileds UV on 20mm copper (Ali), 6*7135 AMC
Regular S2+ from GB flashsale, swapped 395/400nm 5050 Epileds UV on 16mm aluminum (Ali), 8*7135 AMC
Regular S2+ from GB flashsale, swapped 3535 Int-Outdoor UV on 16mm Noctigon, 3*7135 AMC
S2+ host with SM reflector/pill/driver from “old” Convoy UV-light, 3535 Semileds (led4power) on Noctigon, 3*7135 AMC
S2+ shorty with Nichia UV, 2*7135 AMC
Ultrafire SK68 (ordered for being a real Sipik !! Angry !!) with 365nm led from “old” Convoy UV-light, driver unknown

-

EDIT 20180808: because this thread has been been revived, I have replaced the kaputt links to Phot**** by links to Imgur. In the mean-time more UV-lights have joined the club.
The second and third light from the left are victims of my “NOT my 2000 post GiveAWay” and are currently on their way to Greece and Bavaria. In a few days there will be another GAW and then light #4 from the left will be given away (be it in a red host.).

I always think long and hard before I say something really stupid.

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Lexel wrote:
the convoy UV light has one big drawback with the stock aluminum star, it can get too hot damaging the LED
the used Nichia LED is good, but only rated 90°C and 500mA
and most of the Nichia LEDs have a forward voltage of about 3.8V, so you can use only 1/4 of battery capacity before loosing output

It is driver with 700mA which can be a problem when riunning long on a relative high ambient temperature
OK you get 800-1200mW radiant flux depending on bin

I did use heat on my S2+ UV light another way

there is an easy fix here a custom made copper board which performs a lot better than the stock
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/48934

another option if you go ZWB2 filter anyway is the LiteOn LED that has a dedicated thermal pad,
so it can be used on DTP stars and overdriven easily to 1050mA for about 900-1000mW radiant flux

maybe someone could push it harder to 1.4 or 1.75A on a LED that has a really low forward voltage
My sample has only 3.36V at 700mA forward voltage, so battery can get almost fully drained before light output gets lower
https://www.digikey.de/product-detail/de/lite-on-inc/LTPL-C034UVH365/160...

it will throw less as its emitter is bigger

I put the lite-on UV led in a Convoy S2+ with a buck driver at 1.5 amps and it does just fine. I’ve used it to cure 25 trits so far.

-X3-
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Henk4U2 wrote:
One of the things I got addicted to: (thank you, djozz Wink )

And from the bussines end (all 365nm lights have ZWB2 filter)

From left to right:

Powdercoated C8 host from 3Tronics, 395/400nm 5050 Epileds UV on 20mm copper (Ali), 6*7135 AMC
Regular S2+ from GB flashsale, swapped 395/400nm 5050 Epileds UV on 16mm aluminum (Ali), 8*7135 AMC
Regular S2+ from GB flashsale, swapped 3535 Int-Outdoor UV on 16mm Noctigon, 3*7135 AMC
S2+ host with SM reflector/pill/driver from “old” Convoy UV-light, 3535 Semileds (led4power) on Noctigon, 3*7135 AMC
S2+ shorty with Nichia UV, 2*7135 AMC
Ultrafire SK68 (ordered for being a real Sipik !! Angry !!) with 365nm led from “old” Convoy UV-light, driver unknown


Really nice collection, however an UV thrower seems to be overkill…I LOVE that Party
Did you put a ZWB2 glass behind the aspheric ?
How do you like the 395/400nm to compare with 365 ?

"Hey -X3-, do you have a flashlight ?"   "-X3-, can I borrow one of your flashlights ?" 

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Lexel
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djburkes wrote:

I put the lite-on UV led in a Convoy S2+ with a buck driver at 1.5 amps and it does just fine. I’ve used it to cure 25 trits so far.

how well is it holding up at 1.5A?
I am not sure if I push it to 1.05 or 1.4A.
those UV have only a Tjmax of 90°C and they get damaged real quick compared to white ones if they get too hot

I made even better Macros of it

atbglenn
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djburkes wrote:
Lexel wrote:
the convoy UV light has one big drawback with the stock aluminum star, it can get too hot damaging the LED
the used Nichia LED is good, but only rated 90°C and 500mA
and most of the Nichia LEDs have a forward voltage of about 3.8V, so you can use only 1/4 of battery capacity before loosing output

It is driver with 700mA which can be a problem when riunning long on a relative high ambient temperature
OK you get 800-1200mW radiant flux depending on bin

I did use heat on my S2+ UV light another way

there is an easy fix here a custom made copper board which performs a lot better than the stock
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/48934

another option if you go ZWB2 filter anyway is the LiteOn LED that has a dedicated thermal pad,
so it can be used on DTP stars and overdriven easily to 1050mA for about 900-1000mW radiant flux

maybe someone could push it harder to 1.4 or 1.75A on a LED that has a really low forward voltage
My sample has only 3.36V at 700mA forward voltage, so battery can get almost fully drained before light output gets lower
https://www.digikey.de/product-detail/de/lite-on-inc/LTPL-C034UVH365/160...

it will throw less as its emitter is bigger

I put the lite-on UV led in a Convoy S2+ with a buck driver at 1.5 amps and it does just fine. I’ve used it to cure 25 trits so far.

After a year, mine still looks good. But then again, I only use it for a couple of minutes at a time

Henk4U2
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X3 wrote:
Henk4U2 wrote:
One of the things I got addicted to: (thank you, djozz Wink )

And from the bussines end (all 365nm lights have ZWB2 filter)


Really nice collection, however an UV thrower seems to be overkill…I LOVE that Party
Did you put a ZWB2 glass behind the aspheric ?
How do you like the 395/400nm to compare with 365 ?

Yes, there is also a ZWB2 filter in the zoomie, just behind the aspheric lens.
I replaced the original black plastic shim by a rather thick and smooth O-ring.
With the head facing down, just lay the filter on the lens, inside the O-ring.
When the head is re-assembled, the O-ring can only move in one direction: inwards.
Until the moment is reached that the filter is clamped on all sides by the O-ring, so to speak.

Of the two kinds, 365nm is far better with paper money.
But 395/400nm is better suited for some organic materials, despite the disturbing purple glow.

I always think long and hard before I say something really stupid.

teacher
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OK, somebody please give me the “UV for Dummies” version. (I would be the “dummy” …. Wink . )

I got a Convoy UV about a week ago….. THIS ONE

I got a Jaxman UV in the mail today…. THIS ONE

  • They both say they have a 365nm Nichia UV chip… CORRECTION … Convoy says it has the Nichia
  • Jaxman says it has a 365nm UV (It appears to be from Royalighting, thanks Henk4U2 Thumbs Up . )
  • Convoy has a clear lens.
  • Jaxmen has a dark lens
  • Convoy says 3W / 700ma
  • Jaxman says 3W / (It does not say, but I am assuming it is around 700ma also)

Questions

  • What does the dark lens “do” that the clear does not?
  • Can they be driven more than 700ma (by adding another chip)??
    …….. If so what is/is there, any advantage??
  • Are there certain “nm” ranges that are better for detecting different things?
  • Is it necessary to wear UV glasses (protective) when using the lights??

Answers greatly appreciated and than you in advance? Thumbs Up
.
Smile

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fuzun
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I am stuck between Jaxman and Convoy (you can recommend another at that price point). Help me please CashSad Can not afford both.

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@teacher, not being the expert that djozz is, my first impression is that:

- the picture of the UV-led on the Jaxman site looks like the Royalighting or Intl-Outdoor led as reviewed by djozz. It can be driven by 3*7135 AMC (at least I do, on a Noctigon) but Jaxman has a policy of “not pushing the envelope” so they use 2*7135 AMC. This led emits a lot of non-UV light. You definitely need a ZWB2 filter to separate the men from the boys, so to speak, because that filter blocks the white light that prevents you from seeing what you want to see with the UV light.

- the Convoy UV-light with Nichia is standard equipped with a 2*7135 AMC driver. Stick to that, I do. When I got this light directly from Simon (Convoy) it came with a black ZWB2 filter. IMHO the output (spectrum) of this led is better than that of the Royalighting, but it still emits a considerable amount of non-UV light. You also need a black ZWB2 filter for this one.

- the question of upgrading the driver is already implicitely answered: don’t. You will just kill the led.

- as dr. Ruth already said: always wear protection. Certainly when you are using lights with a ZWB2 filter. You won’t see it coming. And not only from shining directly into your eyes but also from the refection in a glass window or bathroom tiles.

I always think long and hard before I say something really stupid.

Henk4U2
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fuzun wrote:
I am stuck between Jaxman and Convoy (you can recommend another at that price point). Help me please CashSad Can not afford both.

Recommend the Convoy + ZWB2 filter (look at previous post).

I always think long and hard before I say something really stupid.

Lexel
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I used my Convoy S2+ with the stock MCPCB a few hours and with Djozz board also an hour or so

I noticed that parts of the emitter start to get very dim, no color change like other LEDs had
I guess 700mA is not healthy for this Nichia LED on the stock star

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As for UV flashlight, I think Tank007 TK566 is a good choice, professional Japan chip, dark glass as lens which can filter visual light and get more UV light.

Tank007 Flashlight Manufacturer
http://www.tank007store.com/

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Jessicasmith wrote:
As for UV flashlight, I think Tank007 TK566 is a good choice, professional Japan chip, dark glass as lens which can filter visual light and get more UV light.

Same led, same filter, but NOT the same price-range.

I always think long and hard before I say something really stupid.

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Jessicasmith wrote:
As for UV flashlight, I think Tank007 TK566 is a good choice, professional Japan chip, dark glass as lens which can filter visual light and get more UV light.

With such a high priced UV light, at least give the sutomers more than “japan UV emitter”…
You need to give them more information in order to justify this price.
The host doesn’t seem to have good quality, I really hope that this is a Nichia in there at least

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mortuus
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im confused, whats the need for ZWB2 for the convoy uv flashlight? So i guess using the convoy stock light longer runtimes isnt such a good idea then, since it can damage the LED ? not good… perhaps simon should do a new version of it, anyone can contact him with the pics above?

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Henk4U2 wrote:
@teacher, not being the expert that djozz is, my first impression is that:

@Henk4U2…… Thank you so much for the answers and link, I appreciate your time. Thumbs Up

I have another question or so below………

Henk4U2 wrote:
- the picture of the UV-led on the Jaxman site looks like the Royalighting or Intl-Outdoor led as reviewed by djozz. It can be driven by 3*7135 AMC (at least I do, on a Noctigon) but Jaxman has a policy of “not pushing the envelope” so they use 2*7135 AMC. This led emits a lot of non-UV light. You definitely need a ZWB2 filter to separate the men from the boys, so to speak, because that filter blocks the white light that prevents you from seeing what you want to see with the UV light.
  • So does that mean the Jaxman has a “Royalighting” UV-LED and not the Nichia as advertised?? (It never said this , I was mistaken)
    ……..If so, is it “as good as” the Nichia? (I am just curious & trying to learn. Smile . )
  • Would there be much advantage to adding another 7135 AMC to bring it to 3*7235AMC total?? As long as the LED is on a good DTP board that is.

Henk4U2 wrote:

- the Convoy UV-light with Nichia is standard equipped with a 2*7135 AMC driver. Stick to that, I do. When I got this light directly from Simon (Convoy) it came with a black ZWB2 filter. IMHO the output (spectrum) of this led is better than that of the Royalighting, but it still emits a considerable amount of non-UV light. You also need a black ZWB2 filter for this one.

- the question of upgrading the driver is already implicitely answered: don’t. You will just kill the led.

- as dr. Ruth already said: always wear protection. Certainly when you are using lights with a ZWB2 filter. You won’t see it coming. And not only from shining directly into your eyes but also from the refection in a glass window or bathroom tiles.

  • OK, I got mine through GearBest, that might be why it just has a clear lens. I’ll add a ZWB2 lens.
  • Leave it at 2*7135 AMC driver. Check……….. Thumbs Up
  • I’ll follow both yours and Dr. Ruth’s advice on wearing protection. Smile

Thank you again for being so helpful & thorough. Beer

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Henk4U2
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teacher wrote:
I have another question or so below………
Henk4U2 wrote:
- the picture of the UV-led on the Jaxman site looks like the Royalighting or Intl-Outdoor led as reviewed by djozz. It can be driven by 3*7135 AMC (at least I do, on a Noctigon) but Jaxman has a policy of “not pushing the envelope” so they use 2*7135 AMC. This led emits a lot of non-UV light. You definitely need a ZWB2 filter to separate the men from the boys, so to speak, because that filter blocks the white light that prevents you from seeing what you want to see with the UV light.
  • So does that mean the Jaxman has a “Royalighting” UV-LED and not the Nichia as advertised??
    ……..If so, is it “as good as” the Nichia? (I am just curious & trying to learn. Smile . )
  • Would there be much advantage to adding another 7135 AMC to bring it to 3*7235AMC total?? As long as the LED is on a good DTP board that is.

- I don’t own the Jaxman myself, so I can’t look inside it. But the picture of the UV-led on the Jaxman site sure looks more like the Royalighting led, reviewed by djozz, than like the Nichia led, shown in perfect detail in post #9 of this thread.
The Nichia is about 1 yr “younger”, so I guess it will be more efficient in emitting UV-light.
- it looks like the Royalighting can endure 3*7135 AMC (3*0.35A=1.05A) when the led is mounted on a good DTP board. And yes, you hear a “but …” is coming up. When you look at the graph in the review of djozz, you notice that the forward voltage is quite high. In plain English: you need about 4 Volt to make that current go through the led. That is possible when you use a fresh off the charger 4.35V battery. In normal conditions, and with a “regular” 4.2V battery, you get 0.9A at the most. So the effective gain of adding an extra AMC is not very impressive.

I always think long and hard before I say something really stupid.

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I bought the banggood s2+ without a filter and had no problems. I installed a filter and saw little if any difference. Whoops! Yes I did! The light looks “cooler” now to the eye. I can also easily tell which light of that form is the UV light and not the white light. it works identically to the user with or w/o the filter from what I remember. I also use mine just a few minutes at a time. Heat might be a problem if one used it for longer, but it isn’t designed to be a mineralogy display light. I’d never pay close to $300 for a UV light when the s2+ works so good and has so much going for it. Just remember to turn it off and on as required. It’s no big deal.

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X3 wrote:
Jessicasmith wrote:
As for UV flashlight, I think Tank007 TK566 is a good choice, professional Japan chip, dark glass as lens which can filter visual light and get more UV light.
With such a high priced UV light, at least give the sutomers more than “japan UV emitter”… You need to give them more information in order to justify this price. The host doesn’t seem to have good quality, I really hope that this is a Nichia in there at least

Your advice is good. Thanks. But a real Nichia UV chip is more expensive than our TK566 flashlight.

Tank007 Flashlight Manufacturer
http://www.tank007store.com/

teacher
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Henk4U2 wrote:
teacher wrote:
I have another question or so below………
Henk4U2 wrote:
- the picture of the UV-led on the Jaxman site looks like the Royalighting or Intl-Outdoor led as reviewed by djozz. It can be driven by 3*7135 AMC (at least I do, on a Noctigon) but Jaxman has a policy of “not pushing the envelope” so they use 2*7135 AMC. This led emits a lot of non-UV light. You definitely need a ZWB2 filter to separate the men from the boys, so to speak, because that filter blocks the white light that prevents you from seeing what you want to see with the UV light.
  • So does that mean the Jaxman has a “Royalighting” UV-LED and not the Nichia as advertised?? (It never said this , I was mistaken)
    ……..If so, is it “as good as” the Nichia? (I am just curious & trying to learn. Smile . )
  • Would there be much advantage to adding another 7135 AMC to bring it to 3*7235AMC total?? As long as the LED is on a good DTP board that is.

- I don’t own the Jaxman myself, so I can’t look inside it. But the picture of the UV-led on the Jaxman site sure looks more like the Royalighting led, reviewed by djozz, than like the Nichia led, shown in perfect detail in post #9 of this thread.
The Nichia is about 1 yr “younger”, so I guess it will be more efficient in emitting UV-light.

- it looks like the Royalighting can endure 3*7135 AMC (3*0.35A=1.05A) when the led is mounted on a good DTP board. And yes, you hear a “but …” is coming up. When you look at the graph in the review of djozz, you notice that the forward voltage is quite high. In plain English: you need about 4 Volt to make that current go through the led. That is possible when you use a fresh off the charger 4.35V battery. In normal conditions, and with a “regular” 4.2V battery, you get 0.9A at the most. So the effective gain of adding an extra AMC is not very impressive.

Thank you again Henk4U2…… Thumbs Up .. I had forgot the Royalighting LED picture was on the review you gave the link to. I guess I had a senior moment. FacepalmWink
  • But you are correct, it does look more like it. I am gonna locate my magnifying glass and check for sure tonight.
  • I see that adding a 7135 AMC ‘chip’ won’t do much. Thank you for explaining why. Smile

~~~~~~~~~Royalighting – left ~~~~~~~~~~ Nichia UV (Convoy) – center ~~~~~~~~~~ LiteOn UV – right


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I am beginning to be fascinated by these UV LED’s….. Smile

      You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load. / Paul "Bear" Bryant ~/~\~ "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast"

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teacher
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JAXMAN U1 365nm UV LED flashlight special purpose
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OK, I found my error with your help Henk4U2.

The Jaxman UV light I got, listed above; never claimed to have a Nichia in it.
Just like you said, from the picture it appears to be a Royalighting.

I was confusing the Jaxman I bought with the Jaxman shown below…. which cearly has a Nichia in it.

My bad……… FacepalmWink
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.Jaxman U1 Nichia UV LED LAMPS 365nm 18650 LED flashlight
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      You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load. / Paul "Bear" Bryant ~/~\~ "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast"

       Texas Lumens Flashlights  <>   M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$    ||||

         Rudeness Level /\ mΩ /\ {width:70%} /\ LightWiki /\ LED Tint Chart /\ LED Tint Picture /\ Xlamp size chart /\ BatteryU                   Flashaholic? Need Professional Help???   wink   /\ TheOriginal /\ TAB /\ LightSearch /\ BatterySearch /\ 14500's /\ DiCal                                                       

djozz
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^ The Tank007 UV lights are way overpriced.

I do not like professional UV-lights, our own build UV-lights are miles better and cheaper. The only stock UV lights that are worth considering are the Convoy and the Jaxman.
But of course I’m not a professional…

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