BLF style 18650 1s thrower( poor mans Olight M2X)

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DB Custom
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If you have a DMM you can check that the switch works or doesn’t. If the springs collapsed from a direct short there’s a good chance the switch is still good. Replace the springs and correct the short circuit, should be good to go.

Edit: Most of the time, if the switch still clicks freely then it’s ok. If it feels mushy or like it’s hanging up inside, then it may be ruined.

Dale

ARsee
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DB Custom wrote:
That usually happens when the reflector shorts out on the positive contact on top of the mcpcb. Very unlikely for the short to be in the switch itself as it's only a breaker for the negative contact, it's not in touch with the positive end of the cell. I'd be checking the reflector to pill area... Edit: To be clear, rainbowed and collapsed springs are a result of a direct short to positive, the springs overheated and failed. This is from the top end, the positive end of the cell, not the bottom or negative end. If the pill wasn't screwed down tight and you tightened the bezel, you may have forced the reflector down onto the positive contact. This is inherent to the HD2010 design, the reflector is made wrong with that wide contact base, it should have been tapered and the pill should utilize an mcpcb with wide enough contacts to clear the reflector.

Considering my knowledge, you are likely right. I have some learning to do if I want to be messing around with these lights. Odds are, I may be wiser ordering in multiples when I place any order. LOL

I think I'm about to open a big can of worms!!

 

Edit: The clicky feels OK. Reflector to pill also looks OK. The resistor was touching before I move it away.

toasted

 

 

Tom E
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You mean the cap on the right? Hard to tell, but looks dangerously close with some solder hanging off. Might be harmless if that end of the cap is going to ground anyway. What we usually do is locate part end close to the ground ring when they go to ground anyway - less risk.

DB Custom
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Tom? Doesn’t that big Toroid look fried? Yikes! Wondering if the driver is any good. Toss it and put an FET in there. Big Smile

Edit: Nice pictures by the way ARsee. Wink

Dale

Tom E
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Oopsie, it looks pretty bad - you're right, looks black and silverish when it should all be copper colored. Don't think I ever had one fail, but if I were to guess, it might look something like this. Suppose that explains that nasty look'n stuff all over the inside of the pill, and also on some of those resistors, like the R130.

I'd have to agree - it's done, take'r out of the oven. Wow, that short did some serious damage.

DB Custom
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ARsee? Can you take a photo of the reflector to pill in the open, from the side, to show where the base is in relation to the wires? Simulate how it would be sitting inside the light, most of the time when the bezel is screwed down snug it presses the reflector onto the wire ends, making a short circuit. If you don’t have any Kapton tape, I’d highly recommend getting some. I bought a roll that’s 2” wide and find myself using it all the time. I cut off a square, lay it over the end of the reflector and press it snug onto the ring that seats on the mcpcb, then fold over opposing edges wrapping it to cover the entire end of the reflector. Then I cut the hole out. In this way, the reflector is insulated from touching those wires. It’s important when screwing the bezel down to hold some pressure onto the lens with your fingers to keep the reflector from spinning, sometimes if the reflector turns it can grind the soldered wire joint through the Kapton tape and short it out anyway.

Dale

DB Custom
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The Toroid is a copper wire wrapped around a magnet. The wire has a thin insulation on it that is usually an orangy or bronze looking film. Looks like the entire Toroid heated up and melted all that coating off, spewing it into the driver bay. Bet it smells horrid! Sick

Dale

ARsee
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Sorry for the confusion in my previous post. I don't know the correct terminology yet. I mentioned, resistor. What I was referring too, was the magnet wrapped in copper.

Bare with me. I'm trying to pick up on the correct explanations to avoid confusion.

Dale, I "think" this is the photo you are wanting?

Taking pics with my camera, takes time for perfection. Good, but not perfect.

side

LED

board

 

 

tim70
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Thank you Mitko for sharing this with us. Baked swap emitter and driver dedome xml2 u4 od, A6 fet+1 177,250cd 842m @5m 1,376 lumen after 30s no ar len yet, order some yesterday.
DB Custom
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Totally not seeing where it could have shorted.

And that beam profile is awesome! Smile

Dale

ARsee
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Nice Tim.

That hot spot is KILLER.

Any chance of some beam shots at night, after you get the new AR lens installed?

I'm anxious to see the end results of your upgrades.

 

I just disassembled mine. It's in the oven now

 

 

tim70
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Thank ARsee, sure if I have time!

ARsee
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500° for an hour turns out nice.

I baked the pieces standing individually and not assembled. At 30 minutes, I turned them end for end. ( I noticed the difference in color of Tims ).I assume his light was assembled when baked?

I separated my pieces because it allows better heat transfer

baked

assembled

 

 

tim70
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Looking good ARsee!

Mitko
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Quote:
500° for an hour turns out nice.

Hm, actualy its the best baking i have seen so far – i will bake the next one definately

Quote:
And that beam profile is awesome!

Yeah and thats the best host part actualy, i had HD2010s but this reflector is great, the beam profile is even better than M2X one

However , ARsee`s driver by default is different from one that i got, also the driver retaining ring too: lets juts hope they dont “upgrade “ the reflector too

Tom E
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That is nice, both Tim and ARsee!

ARsee
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I added an assembled image above to show the blend of the pieces Wink

 

 

Tom E
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I think that's the color I saw on the proto Q8 prior to it turning lighter, more like copper. Initially under heat, the Q8 turned a darker reddish/brown color like that, then lighter copper reddish/brown, then turns more like a deep gold. I did mine on the gas burner though, so probably much more heat.

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I actually like that baked color quite a bit. Much better than the original conditions.

luminarium iaculator
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Don’t get me wrong guys. This hotspot looks nice but IME I think by better centering(lifting reflector slightly more over led) light could/should gain greater candela performance, and of course that will result in smaller hotspot.

Modding is making something how you want it to be, not how it comes stock...

Old-Lumens

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I can’t judge by the picures , but i would guess it’s the opposite thing , reflector needs to go closer to the mcpcb .

Mitko
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One would never fix the emitter properly if the emitter is on a 16mm pcb: ever
thats why our BLF fella got only 170k candelas
26+ mm is perfect

Even so its a great result for a 14$ worth flashlight, and its so old style BLF…something that we do miss great time lately

Geuzzz
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Did anyone dedome the stock led? Can we confirm it’s a u3 xml2? I’m ordering parts for an other project and I’m still in doubt of ordering an U4 emitter for this light or use the stock emiter.

Mitko
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Yeah it is, i used it in a x6 host and got actualy quite good results, its something like u3 1A but you can never be sure for the exact tint

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Mitko wrote:
Yeah it is, i used it in a x6 host and got actualy quite good results, its something like u3 1A but you can never be sure for the exact tint

Thnx Mitko

luminarium iaculator
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giorgoskok wrote:
I can’t judge by the picures , but i would guess it’s the opposite thing , reflector needs to go closer to the mcpcb .

Yes you could be right here… In that case it is no problem to take pill outer ring on a lathe or with file. There is even possibility of dremmeling mcbcb or even reflector base if needed.

Mitko wrote:
One would never fix the emitter properly if the emitter is on a 16mm pcb: ever
thats why our BLF fella got only 170k candelas
26+ mm is perfect

Even so its a great result for a 14$ worth flashlight, and its so old style BLF…something that we do miss great time lately

Yes it is only + to have bigger mcpcb but in a lack of it I also don’t see any problem in fitting 16mm noctigon. Little file working and dremmeling won’t kill anyone Smile

Edit: I think I got you know Mitko (The pill can hold 16mm pcbs so i lowered it by 3mm, filled the gap with a thermal paste/ Cu pads and used a 26mm 3535 mcpcb)

Pill by default does not have enough height? If so we could also sacrifice 1 16mm noctigon and merge it with other 16mm one.

This will be easy 300+kcd light with old style XP-G2.

Modding is making something how you want it to be, not how it comes stock...

Old-Lumens

ARsee
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For whatever worthiness, I added an image of the stock board/LED in THIS POST

 

 

Mitko
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luminarium iaculator

I am afraid dremeling wont help here, the reflector base is quite thin: and for best results the emitter bracket should be thin as air: using that kind of bracked is impossible with a 16mm mcpcb cause the reflector will “ hit” the driver wires thus causing a non perfect focus, one should use at least 22awg ones- even using 26awg wont help, tested already

As i mentioned before, the pill should be lowered by like 5mm( ofc filling the internal gap is a must), and using a 26+ mm pcb brings things to where they should be- no more loose reflector and a perfect well centered emitter and hotspot

I am thinking about contacting our russian pill crafter Kiril about CU pills, would be a great to have some of those

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I got mine in today and I’m not disappointed, not many real flaws, just the reflector needs work. I chose this elegant ( Wink ) solution below, now I can use a 20mm board with the wires on the outer edge of the solder pads. Mod in progress..

Mitko
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OMG djozz ….thats a real reflector abuse m8! Smile

How could you kept it from the AL particles and the dust caused by the procedure?

However, a real BLF work!

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