BLF style 18650 1s thrower( poor mans Olight M2X)

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MRsDNF
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Nice mods guys. Love them. That retaining ring is hanging in there by its teeth. Silly

My current and or voltage measurements are only relevent to anything that I measure.

Budget light hobby proudly sponsored by my Mastercard and unknowingly paid for by a hard working wife. 

djozz said "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

Tom E
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Wow, the butcher job is actually not bad at all! Like it!

Jerommel
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Just drilled some more holes in the pill and DTP board..
Board is now fixed with tiny screws. (flush / counter sunk)
I’m making a habit of doing that since i shorted my MT-G2 C8 because the PCB cut the wires when i screwed the pill tight to the reflector…
In this light the same could happen.

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5” parabolic reflector (for recoil light)

luminarium iaculator
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Jerommel,

You know when you said that you’ll not buy 5$ 26mm mcpcb? Well it seems like you spend more than 5$ of electricity for that mod Big Smile
But very interesting indeed but it will not be better than simple 26mm mcpcb mod(better heat transfer, larger copper board).
But yes same ugly aluminum pill like mine… Donat hole in the critical place for heat transfer(below emitter where the greatest heat happens).
For proper and successful modding, and because of mentioned bad pill at least one minute of stable output test on lux meter is must. Mine as I said has 260 kcd for first 5 seconds than it starts dropping fast to 150kcd after 30 or so seconds. That of course will change instantly when fat 26mm mc arrive.

Modding is making something how you want it to be, not how it comes stock...

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giorgoskok
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I tweaked some things , it’s now making 210kcd with the stock emitter . Of course it could do better , but it is clearly a super cheap flashlight for what it offers . Heatsinking is pretty good , i don’t see any drop caused by the temp of the emitter .

U4 emitter and AR coated lens would help , and even as Mitko mentioned a xp-l dedomed would throw even better.

luminarium iaculator
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giorgoskok wrote:
Heatsinking is pretty good , i don’t see any drop caused by the temp of the emitter .

With 26mm mcpcb?

Modding is making something how you want it to be, not how it comes stock...

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giorgoskok
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luminarium iaculator wrote:
giorgoskok wrote:
Heatsinking is pretty good , i don’t see any drop caused by the temp of the emitter .

With 26mm mcpcb?

Yes . It requires quite some time to sand the pill and make a nice flat surface for the mcpcb , but it pays off in the end

luminarium iaculator
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The one that will modd with 16 or 20mm pcb should really pay attention on heat transfer. Donat hole in the middle is simply terrible.

Hardly wait for my 4 × 26mm ones + additional 3 x Mitko super throwers.
Also in meantime our member Driver have sent me original good old XP-G2 S4 2B emitters. So I hope that I will touch or surpass 300 kcd mark with them.

Modding is making something how you want it to be, not how it comes stock...

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Jerommel
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The bottle neck of the heat transfer is the LED itself, not the transition from the DTP board to the pill.
The surface area of the DTP board and the pill shelf is many times larger than the surface area of the LED thermal slug.
Sure, the pill shelf surface is not perfectly flat and has a little dent in the middle, but when you make sure the DTP board is fixed tightly to the pill (i use screws) and with a little thermal grease, it will be fine.

I do wish i had a good old XP-G2 S4 2B though…

Looking for:

5” parabolic reflector (for recoil light)

Jerommel
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Sheesh… That was a lot of work and finicking, but it’s finished now and working.
So i have a XP-L HI in it on 12× 7135, so it’s pretty bright.

The worst part turned out to be coming up with a centring gasket…
Had to make my own from a piece of plastic tube, and had to glue it on the LED board, because:

The focussing.
Turns out i get the best result with nothing between reflector and LED board.
So the centring gasket has no bottom flange, so that it can go all the way towards the reflector.
Had i known this, i would have made the centring gasket thinner, because now it sticks out a little bit inside the reflector, slightly shrouding the sides of the LED, but probably not noticeable as a loss in output.

Thankfully the reflector doesn’t touch the + and – traces of the LED board.
I can adjust the pill from the back of the head, that’s why i made 2 slots for tweezers on the bottom of the pill.
I think i’ll put something thin (kapton tape perhaps) in between LED board and reflector for a little piece of mind eventually.

One thing i think sould be improved yet is the thermal path from pill to head, which is only the threads now.
Maybe a ring of some sorts between pill outer ledge and the head.

Dark outside now, i’ll have a look if the beam is as parallel as possible.

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5” parabolic reflector (for recoil light)

Jerommel
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MRsDNF wrote:
That retaining ring is hanging in there by its teeth. Silly

LOL Yeah, it was just barely screwed in there, about half a turn or something.
So i decided to recess the driver board a little, which was not easy without a lathe, but it worked out okay.

This light needed a LOT of work…

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5” parabolic reflector (for recoil light)

Jerommel
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luminarium iaculator wrote:
The one that will modd with 16 or 20mm pcb should really pay attention on heat transfer. Donat hole in the middle is simply terrible.
I was thinking about your comments when i was busy doing this light, and i managed to flatten the pill shelf a little with a rotary tool and a disc with some sanding paper on it.
The little cavity in the middle is still there though..

And maybe you’re right, it would be better and easier to use a big DTP board, although i wonder how it should be mounted on the pill..

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5” parabolic reflector (for recoil light)

luminarium iaculator
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Modding is making something how you want it to be, not how it comes stock...

Old-Lumens

Jerommel
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Okay, that’s just clamped between pill and reflector.
But it will make the pill even taller / longer, and then you have to cut off like 3 mm form the front end of the tube, and like 2 mm from the rear of the pill.

Here’s the result of my modding:
(click on pics to expand)

I ruined the tiny Philips head screws when i tightened them with force. Facepalm
Not sure if i can get them out again…
I use a 1mm diameter copper wire (tinned) as a ring between head and pill.
That way i can tighten the pill in the head so that the threads make a good thermal path.
Raising the pill 1mm is just about right for a tight focus (fortunately).
This means the pill is not pushing the LED board against the reflector, i estimate there is around 0.3mm space between LED board and reflector.
Everything stays rather cool, i expected more heat.
I couldn’t even find my Fujik thermal goo, so i used a bit of silicone grease for better thermal conductivity (filling the gaps)
Seems to work. Smile
And silicone grease doesn’t dry out.

About the output:

Compared it with Convoy C8 with XP-L HI U6 and this Supwildfire is a lot brighter and has a considerably tighter beam. (of course)
BUT…. …then i compared it with my Brynite B158 with (one of my 2) dedomed old stock XP-G2 (bin unknown, tint was 3D i think, maybe even 3U) on 8× 7135 and the Brynite leaves them totally in the dust… I mean, totally..
…and then i took out my Jacob A60 with dedomed XP-E2 R5 on 6× 7135 and it blows this Supwildfire away too, and so does my Uniquefire UF-T20 with better (but still a bit crappy) lens and also a dedomed XP-E2 R5 on 6× 7135.

So, i think i should either have used my last good old stock XP-G2 in this light or buy another aspheric zoomer…
Yeah, i expected more..

(edit) I have a rather bright corona around the hotspot.
Maybe my reflector is not as good as others?
I don’t know..
The C8 has a similar beam pattern (but a larger projection), so i guess it’s normal..

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5” parabolic reflector (for recoil light)

giorgoskok
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Jerommel wrote:
1mm is quite the right distance for a tight focus (fortunately).

Hmm , maybe .

With dedomed xm-l2 focus wasn’t good with 1mm . My spacer is paper thin now , and focus seems to be just about right .

I think without a spacer would be ideal , but i dont have much time to create a custom centering ring now .

Jerommel
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giorgoskok wrote:
Jerommel wrote:
1mm is quite the right distance for a tight focus (fortunately).

Hmm , maybe .

With dedomed xm-l2 focus wasn’t good with 1mm . My spacer is paper thin now , and focus seems to be just about right .

I think without a spacer would be ideal , but i dont have much time to create a custom centering ring now .

You have misunderstood what i wrote. (it was not clear what i wrote)
The 1mm distance is the copper wire ring between pill and head, so it’s under the pill rim / ledge.
The space between LED board and reflector is probably only 0.3 mm.

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5” parabolic reflector (for recoil light)

giorgoskok
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Yep sorry.

Jerommel
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giorgoskok wrote:
Yep sorry.
I edited it, it wasn’t clear.

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5” parabolic reflector (for recoil light)

luminarium iaculator
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Jerommel wrote:
Okay, that’s just clamped between pill and reflector. But it will make the pill even taller / longer, and then you have to cut off like 3 mm form the front end of the tube, and like 2 mm from the rear of the pill.

You did fine and very interesting job here with your modd but that is just to much job. For similar I guess I would need couple of hours myself.

In 26mm mod pill will not be taller and you don’t have to cut anything. It is as easy as gluing thin copper disc(have you heard about artic alumina?), file, rasp or even lathe to make everything flat to that copper disc, 26mm pcb up on top of that and you are good to with: either gluing(AA), just thinly thermal paste(reflector has fairly enough pressure to mcpcb surface), or you can even add a screw(which imho is totally unnecessary).

I think you must buy Osram Oslon Black Flat(few of them than choose the best like Djozz said).

And BTW where are lux meter results?

Edit:
“Everything stays rather cool, i expected more heat.”

That is first sign that something is not right.

Same happens with mine current modd (26mm mcpcb are still on boat) but since I have lux meter I see that I have 260 kcd in first 5 seconds and then drastically drop to 150 kcd with good old XP-G2 S3 2B. Current draw around 4.5A.

Modding is making something how you want it to be, not how it comes stock...

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djozz
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In my light I got the best focus with both the centering piece paper-thin and the reflector base sanded thinner.

Jerommel
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luminarium iaculator wrote:

And BTW where are lux meter results?
I don’t have a lux meter.
Quote:

Edit:
“Everything stays rather cool, i expected more heat.”

That is first sign that something is not right.

Well, it turns out one of the 12 7135 is not working, i measured 3.88 Amperes.
For the rest, it is a big head, so it just doesn’t get very hot.
The thermal path is good.

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5” parabolic reflector (for recoil light)

Jerommel
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djozz wrote:
In my light I got the best focus with both the centering piece paper-thin and the reflector base sanded thinner.

To my surprise the difference between LED board touching the reflector and with a 0.5 mm (approximately) gap between them is not really clear.
It seems it doesn’t make a difference.

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5” parabolic reflector (for recoil light)

luminarium iaculator
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djozz wrote:
In my light I got the best focus with both the centering piece paper-thin and the reflector base sanded thinner.

Djozz could possible gain happen with drilling how to say that bottom ring of reflector.

I mean on this and to totally flat that with main reflector catching surface? Possible more light catching could happen? And it seems that reflector has enough “meat” to withstand that?

Modding is making something how you want it to be, not how it comes stock...

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Jerommel
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Yeah, i was thinking about removing the bottom ring too.
Then you have a hole of around 21mm, so you can use a stock 20mm LED board.
(edit: i was mistaking the Courui reflector for this one..)
But how to centre it?

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5” parabolic reflector (for recoil light)

djozz
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Centering was the main reason to keep the bottom of the reflector intact, I think it is half a mm now, so it can still hold a centering ring. The centering piece that I used neither fitted the reflector nor the led (the Black Flat is slightly bigger than the XP-G). So I had to ream the reflector hole a bit and I had to ream the hole in the centering piece a bit. It had the advantage that I could ream it to an exact tight fit so the led is really dead-center with a minimum of play while tightening the bezel (not zero play unfortunately, closing the bezel took a few tries before the hotspot was right).

Btw, I can recommend a good reamer for flashlight modding, I have this one:

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Ooh that looks like a real useful tool djozz. I have just been using a small circular file and it doesn’t work great.

luminarium iaculator
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Djozz,

Thanks on advice. Sadly but I never thought about that tool. Now I will try to find something similar in local store.

You mentioned that Osram Oslon Black Flat is bigger than XP-G2? But you actually thought on a base not emittier itself? OBF should be XP-E2 size right?

Modding is making something how you want it to be, not how it comes stock...

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Jerommel
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djozz wrote:
Centering was the main reason to keep the bottom of the reflector intact, I think it is half a mm now, so it can still hold a centering ring. The centering piece that I used neither fitted the reflector nor the led (the Black Flat is slightly bigger than the XP-G). So I had to ream the reflector hole a bit and I had to ream the hole in the centering piece a bit. It had the advantage that I could ream it to an exact tight fit so the led is really dead-center with a minimum of play while tightening the bezel (not zero play unfortunately, closing the bezel took a few tries before the hotspot was right).

Btw, I can recommend a good reamer for flashlight modding, I have this one:
!http://www.caulfieldindustrial.com/v4/32bda22a-2ec4-4965-9cac-b75e246468...!


Hey, i think i have the same one, only the handle is a little different.
I also have a smaller one.
A ‘must have’ tool i.m.o.

By the way, a while back i saw you have the same 80 Watt soldering iron as i do.
You know, the one (from Conrad?) that gets crazy hot. Big Smile

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5” parabolic reflector (for recoil light)

luminarium iaculator
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Just checked drawer and I also have something similar for accu drill

I will sacrifice one reflector and drill that circle completely in hope that reflector will catch more light.

Modding is making something how you want it to be, not how it comes stock...

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Jerommel
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You will not gain much output with that, because there is not a lot of light coming from the sides of the LED.
Besides, the distance to the reflector is very short there, so it will mainly add more warm white to the corona.

Looking for:

5” parabolic reflector (for recoil light)

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