BLF style 18650 1s thrower( poor mans Olight M2X)

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luminarium iaculator
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And I will get rid of that corona around hotspot and get pure hotspot with spill only?

Modding is making something how you want it to be, not how it comes stock...

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Sorry for my bad English (gogole transtorla)

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Q

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luminarium iaculator wrote:
And I will get rid of that corona around hotspot and get pure hotspot with spill only?

I’m not sure how to get rid of the corona.

Q

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I have the fasttech reamer from above and it does not work as nice as the PB design, it has less edges in the round (hope that makes sense), and the angle is steeper so the edge of the hole will becone far from perpendicaular to the surface.

That aliexpress/banggood one looks good (but is it?)

link to djozz tests 

“I used to think that top environmental problems were biodiversity loss, ecosystem collapse and climate change. I thought that thirty years of good science could address these problems. I was wrong. The top environmental problems are selfishness, greed and apathy, and to deal with these we need a cultural and spiritual transformation. And we scientists don’t know how to do that.”   (Gus Speth)

Jerommel
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djozz wrote:
I have the fasttech reamer from above and it does not work as nice as the PB design, it has less edges in the round (hope that makes sense), and the angle is steeper so the edge of the hole will becone far from perpendicaular to the surface.

That aliexpress/banggood one looks good (but is it?)


Yeah, it’s okay. Good enough for aluminium.

Q

DB Custom
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The one from FastTech is more for chamfering the opening to reduce wear and tear on the wires, not really a reamer. I have one and it works ok for doing the chamfering, need a longer more gradual taper for the reaming effort with better cutting edges.

Dale

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Jos, I found the PB Swiss Tools Reamer on Amazon for $68!!! Yikes! Bet it DOES work well, sure better!

Edit: That’s the 5-20mm , pretty sure you have the 2.5-12mm version that is about half that cost. Looking at one for $33. Wink

Dale

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DB Custom wrote:
Jos, I found the PB Swiss Tools Reamer on Amazon for $68!!! Yikes! Bet it DOES work well, sure better!

It does the job…

link to djozz tests 

“I used to think that top environmental problems were biodiversity loss, ecosystem collapse and climate change. I thought that thirty years of good science could address these problems. I was wrong. The top environmental problems are selfishness, greed and apathy, and to deal with these we need a cultural and spiritual transformation. And we scientists don’t know how to do that.”   (Gus Speth)

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Plan on buying an XHP35 HI mounted on a 25mm and just flatten the shelf. I did an XPL HI on a 16mm with a nice amount of throw but the donut hole is pretty bad.

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I may of cheated here. If I could learn how to add extra chips I’d be real happy. ltp tried but I still failed miserably.

This is a 26mm MCPCB with dedomed XML2. I machined .25mm from the base of the reflector. On assembly it made no difference whether the isolator was installed or left off. The same petal pattern was still there.


My current and or voltage measurements are only relevent to anything that I measure.

Budget light hobby proudly sponsored by my Mastercard and unknowingly paid for by a hard working wife. 

djozz said "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

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luminarium iaculator
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MRsDNF wrote:
I may of cheated here. If I could learn how to add extra chips I’d be real happy. ltp tried but I still failed miserably

You are kidding us right? Smile

Lux results since we have only 2.8A draw around 150kcd?

Machining is cheating Smile Just kidding…

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I have forgotten the calc for working out throw. If you can refresh my memory I’ll take a measurement.

Because of the design of the light it is near on impossible making a pill with better heat sinking abilities. The OD where the 26mm MCPCB sits is 27mm which just fits in the head and as the battery tube and pill overlap there is no room to move there. The holes for the led wires were drilled on an angle to not get them to break through the side of the pill and to get to as close as I could to the outside edge at the top.
If the end user wants more light I’ll have to either improve my soldering or put a fet driver in at the risk of blowing the led.

My current and or voltage measurements are only relevent to anything that I measure.

Budget light hobby proudly sponsored by my Mastercard and unknowingly paid for by a hard working wife. 

djozz said "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

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DB Custom
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An fet driver won’t blow the led Steve. Like, man if that were even possible I’d have 500 blown emitters. Silly

At 5M, exactly, your meter reading is multiplied x25 (5 squared, or distance squared) for candela or of course K is thousands, hence the Kcd reading. Multiply the cd x4 then take the square root for a calculated throw in Meters.

So, from 5M, if your meter reads 100 and your meter is set on x10 (100×10=1000), then multiply 1000 × 25 for 25,000 or 25Kcd. Multiply 25000 × 4 = 100,000 and the square root of that is 316 M throw. There ya go, easy peasy. Wink And I even know that from MEMORY! Shocked

Dale

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MRsDNF wrote:

Because of the design of the light it is near on impossible making a pill with better heat sinking abilities.
Hmm… I’m running 3.88 Amperes on an XP-L HI V3 and the light barely gets warm, and i’m using (the remains of) the stock pill.
But, there is a good heat path from Led board to the big head, because everything is tightly screwed together.
I also tested it without reflector and bezel, the LED board didn’t get significantly warmer (to the touch) than the head.
My stock Convoy C8 (2,8 Amperes XP-L U6, no pill) gets warmer.

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DB Custom wrote:
An fet driver won’t blow the led Steve. Like, man if that were even possible I’d have 500 blown emitters.

I still have nightmares from when I was building the C83 and how many leds l blew up before anyone knew what the problem was. Facepalm

Thanks for the formula. Thumbs Up

My current and or voltage measurements are only relevent to anything that I measure.

Budget light hobby proudly sponsored by my Mastercard and unknowingly paid for by a hard working wife. 

djozz said "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

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An XP-G3 can take direct drive from a single cell at up around 6.6A, as can the Nichia 219C (top cells might be too much though). The XHP-50/70 and MT-G2 can take direct drive from 2 cells with the XHP-70 and MT-G2 easily doing 12A on top 26650’s.

The XP-E of course has issues with an FET driver. The XP-G2 will limit itself through a high Vf to around 4-4.6A. A buck driver from Richard can do 5.5A to the XP-G2 through 2 cells.

Edit: To make it easier to stack chips on a Qlite style driver, remove the spring first. Then you’ve got a clearer shot at the legs. Put the spring back on when you’re done. I tend to do my stacking on the inside, starting with the one where the negative leads comes off and then going across to the other side as those two have the least room on that one leg near the MCU. Then do the two that are opposite the MCU and it’s fairly easy. Stacking another row on top of all those is fairly easy too. That’s what I typically do, go with 12 total chips on the inside, leaving the original 4 on the outside where the spring is. A 1.5 to 2mm bevel tip on the iron helps here….

Dale

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Thanks Dale. I’ll give removing the spring ago. This light with unknown dedomed XML2 at 2.8 amps is only 13% down on my HD2010 which has an XPL HI running a 5.5 amp buck driver at around 7 meters. Admittedly the led in the HD2010 could be tuned a little better so the difference would be greater than what it is. I’d love to try a dedomed XPG2 but I wont have the time.

My current and or voltage measurements are only relevent to anything that I measure.

Budget light hobby proudly sponsored by my Mastercard and unknowingly paid for by a hard working wife. 

djozz said "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

gastonpatagonico
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Hi Dale, do you have any nanjg driver photos with 12, 7135 stacked? regards!
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Probably got a whole lot more...

 

MRsDNF
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I’d have that up on the wall as modern art. Smile

My current and or voltage measurements are only relevent to anything that I measure.

Budget light hobby proudly sponsored by my Mastercard and unknowingly paid for by a hard working wife. 

djozz said "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

luminarium iaculator
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DB Custom wrote:
An fet driver won’t blow the led Steve. Like, man if that were even possible I’d have 500 blown emitters. Silly

At 5M, exactly, your meter reading is multiplied x25 (5 squared, or distance squared) for candela or of course K is thousands, hence the Kcd reading. Multiply the cd x4 then take the square root for a calculated throw in Meters.

So, from 5M, if your meter reads 100 and your meter is set on x10 (100×10=1000), then multiply 1000 × 25 for 25,000 or 25Kcd. Multiply 25000 × 4 = 100,000 and the square root of that is 316 M throw. There ya go, easy peasy. Wink And I even know that from MEMORY! Shocked

I know even simpler one.

Formula is Distance x Distance x Lux. So on given example it is 5m x 5m x 1000 lux = 25000lux
Of course if you have meters on x10 settings multiply that with 100 before calculation.

And real life usable throw(where you clearly can identify target) would be around 100 meters Smile

Modding is making something how you want it to be, not how it comes stock...

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For those that have given me advice on how to solder chips on and I failed miserably, well I can now say thanks. I wont tell you how long it took but the driver works and outputs 3.4 amps. Yes I’m a happy camper. Smile

My current and or voltage measurements are only relevent to anything that I measure.

Budget light hobby proudly sponsored by my Mastercard and unknowingly paid for by a hard working wife. 

djozz said "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

MRsDNF
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DB Custom wrote:
An fet driver won’t blow the led Steve. Like, man if that were even possible I’d have 500 blown emitters. Silly

At 5M, exactly, your meter reading is multiplied x25 (5 squared, or distance squared) for candela or of course K is thousands, hence the Kcd reading. Multiply the cd x4 then take the square root for a calculated throw in Meters.

So, from 5M, if your meter reads 100 and your meter is set on x10 (100×10=1000), then multiply 1000 × 25 for 25,000 or 25Kcd. Multiply 25000 × 4 = 100,000 and the square root of that is 316 M throw. There ya go, easy peasy. Wink And I even know that from MEMORY! Shocked

I got a meter reading of 190. That is with three pushes of the button so I get a reading on the screen. I have the same meter as you have. Distance is 8.58m. I’ll let you work it out here so I can note it down. Thanks Dale.

My current and or voltage measurements are only relevent to anything that I measure.

Budget light hobby proudly sponsored by my Mastercard and unknowingly paid for by a hard working wife. 

djozz said "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

luminarium iaculator
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That is very good job. Thumbs Up

Edit:
“distance is 8.58m”

8,58×8,58×1900(if you measured on x10) = 139871lux or roughly 140kcd

Cant be simpler than that Wink

Modding is making something how you want it to be, not how it comes stock...

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If you can’t remember any of these , just try this tool :
http://www.rapidtables.com/calc/light/lux-to-candela-calculator.htm

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Thanks guys. Smile

My current and or voltage measurements are only relevent to anything that I measure.

Budget light hobby proudly sponsored by my Mastercard and unknowingly paid for by a hard working wife. 

djozz said "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

Anthon
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What cd should I expect with Maxtoch 26mm + dedomed xpg2 + fet driver + centering ring tunning?

luminarium iaculator
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Around 260-330kcd but it all depends on which xpg2

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Anthon
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luminarium iaculator wrote:
Around 260-330kcd but it all depends on which xpg2

XP-G2 S4 2B

Can’t wait until I receive all the parts Tired

Actually my longest thrower is the Nitecore P30 with around 100.000cd

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