Talk about future projects and donation topic

531 posts / 0 new
Last post
Jinx
Jinx's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 month 2 weeks ago
Joined: 10/16/2011 - 11:35
Posts: 1078
Location: England

Yeah I have the Dc fix over my S41, not a great difference but I have left it on.

A BLF project used to be a nicer tint and a current boost, now it seems to be a complete ground up project pushing boundaries. I hope there remains room for both, I don’t have the time or inclination to do even minor mods unfortunately.

I’m still preferring the TIR option if I’m honest, I carry the S41 over the Q8 for walking.

If I go to the Q8 it replaces the C8, if I want more throw I take the Maxtoch (soon a GT hopefully). The constant always remains the little TIR for its great close range beam.
The TIR isn’t all to credit, the Nichia’s certainly help. The beam profile, tint and CRI all combine to make it useful close range.

DavidEF
DavidEF's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 day 9 hours ago
Joined: 06/05/2014 - 06:00
Posts: 5331
Location: Salisbury, North Carolina, USA

Agro wrote:
I drew another light that I want today….

driverless 10180 thrower based on Osram SYNIOS P2720 DMLQ31.SG and Khatod PL1670UN.
I don’t have any 10180 discharge curves so it’s hard for me to predict the output.
Theoretically, if the LED was driven to the peak level we see on koef3 charts and was cooled as well, it would do ~37 kcd.
I guess estimating 20 kcd is conservative enough.

Yes! I want a 10180 thrower! It should be fully optimized for throw by using a tiny emitter with good brightness (brain fart – I can’t remember the right word) and a very well machined smooth reflector. Let’s build it! Party

Edit: I just realized that I missed what you were saying almost entirely. I guess I turned off reading comprehension after “10180 thrower… “ I don’t really want any flashlight that doesn’t use a driver. I’m not familiar with that emitter or that optic. Can you tell me a little about why you chose those?

Reason is not automatic. Those who deny it cannot be conquered by it. Do not count on them. Leave them alone.
-Ayn Rand

Agro
Online
Last seen: 10 min 47 sec ago
Joined: 05/14/2017 - 11:16
Posts: 1831
Location: Ślōnsk

The LED is the current throw king:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/58016
It puts out small but useful enough 450 lm (peak, probably not possible with 10180).

The optic is a very throwy one and has the right size. A reflector should work well too, but I found precisely 0 intensity measurements coming from manufacturers, so I use TIRs in my drawings. I may use Endermann’s calculator though…

Frankly, I don’t know whether driverless is a good idea.
This LED had a very low Vf. It’s totally unsuitable for direct drive with moderately sized batteries, but 10180 may not blow it. It will be hard on battery and hard thermally. A regulated driver might be a good option, but it will take a lot of space, 2-sided for sure. A FET driver will be smaller, but when doing FET why don’t go all the way and make it driverless?

EDIT: I see very roughly 40 kcd with the calculator, again at peak intensity.

DavidEF
DavidEF's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 day 9 hours ago
Joined: 06/05/2014 - 06:00
Posts: 5331
Location: Salisbury, North Carolina, USA

Agro wrote:
The LED is the current throw king:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/58016
It puts out small but useful enough 450 lm (peak, probably not possible with 10180).

The optic is a very throwy one and has the right size. A reflector should work well too, but I found precisely 0 intensity measurements coming from manufacturers, so I use TIRs in my drawings. I may use Endermann’s calculator though…

Frankly, I don’t know whether driverless is a good idea.
This LED had a very low Vf. It’s totally unsuitable for direct drive with moderately sized batteries, but 10180 may not blow it. It will be hard on battery and hard thermally. A regulated driver might be a good option, but it will take a lot of space, 2-sided for sure. A FET driver will be smaller, but when doing FET why don’t go all the way and make it driverless?

EDIT: I see very roughly 40 kcd with the calculator, again at peak intensity.


For me, the driver is desirable in order to get a nice UI. I wouldn’t necessarily want max output at all times either. It’s not so much about “regulation” as it is about “control”. I’m a little bit of a control freak, and I like having choices. It would also be insanely cool to have the NarsilM smooth ramping on such a minuscule light. That, coupled with it being classed a “thrower” would make it truly over-the-top!

Reason is not automatic. Those who deny it cannot be conquered by it. Do not count on them. Leave them alone.
-Ayn Rand

patmurris
patmurris's picture
Offline
Last seen: 15 hours 53 min ago
Joined: 12/22/2014 - 15:54
Posts: 1092
Location: Nice, France

I would also love a 26650 D4 or mini Q8.
With four XPLs it should do 4k+ lumen.
Onboard USB charging would be nice too.

Which optic/reflector remains a good question. The D4 TIR is too floody IMO. The Q8 beam is just right to my taste. Can it be shrunk and maintain some throw?

JasonWW
JasonWW's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 47 min ago
Joined: 10/22/2016 - 11:41
Posts: 5210
Location: Houston Texas

patmurris wrote:
The Q8 beam is just right to my taste. Can it be shrunk and maintain some throw?

I would think the C8F triple reflector would be pretty close to the Q8. My guess would be a little bigger hotspot, so not as good throw, but still good and much brighter spill than a TIR. Here is a video of the C8F xpl to see the beam. Video by DB Custom.

My Convoy L6 thread with XHP70.2, Texas Avenger FET driver, Narsil v1.2 ramping firmware, lighted side switch and cut down SMO reflector. Lots of amp draws on stock driver as well.
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/54477

My Supfire L5-S thread with XHP70, Texas Avenger FET driver, NarsilM v1.0 ramping firmware and lighted side switch. My mini L6! http://budgetlightforum.com/node/55746

9 NarsilM user videos including GT
http://bit.ly/narsil-vid1

Texas_Ace
Texas_Ace's picture
Offline
Last seen: 5 hours 19 min ago
Joined: 03/24/2016 - 07:44
Posts: 6140
Location: Everything is brighter in Texas

For the record, in my testing I always got the same or slightly better throw from TIR optics vs reflectors of the same size.

Assuming the TIR was properly match to the LED is use that is.

Know guns, know peace, know safety. No guns, no peace, no safety.

The ultimate result of shielding men from the effects of folly is to fill the world with fools. --Herbert Spencer , English Philosopher (1820-1903)

Texas Avenger Driver Series

My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5  - Nichia 219C 90+ CRILatticebright "XM-L"XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5  - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D

Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests

JasonWW
JasonWW's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 47 min ago
Joined: 10/22/2016 - 11:41
Posts: 5210
Location: Houston Texas

Texas_Ace wrote:
For the record, in my testing I always got the same or slightly better throw from TIR optics vs reflectors of the same size.

Assuming the TIR was properly match to the LED is use that is.


How was the spill brightness? I was really hoping to find a TIR setup that could come close to a reflector as far as beam proportions, hot spot size to spill brightness.

EDIT, I changed post 487 to better reflect what I was trying to say.

My Convoy L6 thread with XHP70.2, Texas Avenger FET driver, Narsil v1.2 ramping firmware, lighted side switch and cut down SMO reflector. Lots of amp draws on stock driver as well.
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/54477

My Supfire L5-S thread with XHP70, Texas Avenger FET driver, NarsilM v1.0 ramping firmware and lighted side switch. My mini L6! http://budgetlightforum.com/node/55746

9 NarsilM user videos including GT
http://bit.ly/narsil-vid1

Texas_Ace
Texas_Ace's picture
Offline
Last seen: 5 hours 19 min ago
Joined: 03/24/2016 - 07:44
Posts: 6140
Location: Everything is brighter in Texas

TIR’s give you a larger hotspot then a reflector but that doesn’t mean less throw, they are simply better at collimating the beam.

I have dozens of TIR’s laying around here and I have tried all sorts of combos. The spill is usually better then you would expect unless the optic you got is specifically designed to not have any spill.

Unlike reflectors TIR’s are designed for a bunch of use cases and a whole lot more then size factors into what they give you.

In my case I did a lot of testing for my EDC tube light.

As a rule, the TIR gave more spill close to the hotspot, then there was a small area near the edge of the reflector beam where the reflector spill was slightly brighter. After the reflector spill cutoff though, the TIR spill kept going, just getting dimmer.

I prefer TIR optics in most cases, the beam is more pleasing.

Know guns, know peace, know safety. No guns, no peace, no safety.

The ultimate result of shielding men from the effects of folly is to fill the world with fools. --Herbert Spencer , English Philosopher (1820-1903)

Texas Avenger Driver Series

My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5  - Nichia 219C 90+ CRILatticebright "XM-L"XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5  - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D

Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests

Enderman
Enderman's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 hours 22 min ago
Joined: 11/03/2016 - 22:42
Posts: 2638
Location: Vancouver, Canada
Thumbs Up

Also someone mentioned frosted TIR, this second image is sorta what you will get if you diffuse it:
http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1244719#comment-1244719
Almost no hotspot and very nice spill, great for close range use.

Kingjohn
Kingjohn's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 hours 33 min ago
Joined: 09/07/2017 - 16:24
Posts: 89
Location: Austria

How about a really tiny lamp, using one AA cell or a 14500.

Similar to a UTorch 01, but with a better interface, and maybe a little more power…?

Agro
Online
Last seen: 10 min 47 sec ago
Joined: 05/14/2017 - 11:16
Posts: 1831
Location: Ślōnsk

I’d like a small, elegant, titanium light. BLF style.
Seeing how Astrolux sells their TI3A for $16 I can’t help but think that a much better BLF light has to be doable for $25 (preorder price). And I want one.
So:

  • 10440 powered
  • e-switch, BLF UI
  • FET driver (FET+1 would be better, but if it complicates the build it’s not worth it)
  • CRI90 219c
  • clip
  • locator light

I think that LED locator would be cheaper than tritium. And if connected to the driver it could act as an indicator as well. Or with RGB led the colour could be configurable to best suit the garment.
I’d like it the most with the switch in the tail, but I’m not sure if doing the FW3A thing is feasible in a titanium light (I guess with Al internal tubing – yes). It would make the light thicker though.

Thoughts?

Agro
Online
Last seen: 10 min 47 sec ago
Joined: 05/14/2017 - 11:16
Posts: 1831
Location: Ślōnsk

Agro wrote:
I have no idea if this makes sense, but how about a headlight with a strip lens?
Here, a rough sketch of 18350 light with 5-6 XP-sized LEDs and Khatod pl1629. Size roughly 35×40mm.
!https://i.imgur.com/KiO8faf.png!

I’d like another light of this style.
18650 with 16 Yuji VTC-5730 LEDs. No overcurrent to maintain CRI 9790, ~400 OTF lumens.
ToyKeeper
ToyKeeper's picture
Offline
Last seen: 28 min 17 sec ago
Joined: 01/12/2013 - 14:40
Posts: 6905
Location: (469219) 2016 HO3

Agro wrote:
  • 10440 powered
  • e-switch

I’d like it the most with the switch in the tail, but I’m not sure if doing the FW3A thing is feasible in a titanium light (I guess with Al internal tubing – yes). It would make the light thicker though.

A double-tube 10440 light doesn’t make much sense because it would lose the advantage of being thin. It’s also difficult to fit a complicated driver into something that size. But perhaps a 16340 light could work? It seems like it’d be a lot easier, at least.

I still want a BLF version of the Olight S-Mini.

I also still want a small BLF 14500 light. Could be like a smaller FW3A, could be like the brass AA clicky.

Agro
Online
Last seen: 10 min 47 sec ago
Joined: 05/14/2017 - 11:16
Posts: 1831
Location: Ślōnsk

16340 or 14500 would work great in a woman’s purse, but not so well in a jacket’s inner pocket….too thick.

But I wonder what is the factor limiting minimum tube thickness? Size of PCB contacts? Strength necessary when joining them into one?

WaylonJennings
Offline
Last seen: 1 week 1 day ago
Joined: 05/16/2017 - 21:08
Posts: 210
Location: Elk Mound, Wisconsin

I have been looking for a good quality mid-size thrower for a while now and I just thought of bringing it up here. What I have in mind is a 3 or 4 cell Q8 style battery tube with a 2.8 to 3” head. Throw in good heat management, an efficient driver and Narsil or other great UI and BLF would have a nice light that would fill a hole in my line-up.

JasonWW
JasonWW's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 47 min ago
Joined: 10/22/2016 - 11:41
Posts: 5210
Location: Houston Texas

WaylonJennings wrote:
I have been looking for a good quality mid-size thrower for a while now and I just thought of bringing it up here. What I have in mind is a 3 or 4 cell Q8 style battery tube with a 2.8 to 3” head. Throw in good heat management, an efficient driver and Narsil or other great UI and BLF would have a nice light that would fill a hole in my line-up.

How would that differ from the Q8?

My Convoy L6 thread with XHP70.2, Texas Avenger FET driver, Narsil v1.2 ramping firmware, lighted side switch and cut down SMO reflector. Lots of amp draws on stock driver as well.
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/54477

My Supfire L5-S thread with XHP70, Texas Avenger FET driver, NarsilM v1.0 ramping firmware and lighted side switch. My mini L6! http://budgetlightforum.com/node/55746

9 NarsilM user videos including GT
http://bit.ly/narsil-vid1

WaylonJennings
Offline
Last seen: 1 week 1 day ago
Joined: 05/16/2017 - 21:08
Posts: 210
Location: Elk Mound, Wisconsin
JasonWW wrote:
WaylonJennings wrote:
I have been looking for a good quality mid-size thrower for a while now and I just thought of bringing it up here. What I have in mind is a 3 or 4 cell Q8 style battery tube with a 2.8 to 3” head. Throw in good heat management, an efficient driver and Narsil or other great UI and BLF would have a nice light that would fill a hole in my line-up.
How would that differ from the Q8?

Single reflector with a 35 HI or other throwy led. In my mind that was implied, but my mind is not always clear.

JasonWW
JasonWW's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 47 min ago
Joined: 10/22/2016 - 11:41
Posts: 5210
Location: Houston Texas

I’m sure there are lights like that already out there, they just need a driver swap. Maybe a Haikelite MT07S or Klarus G35 with one of Lexels drivers.

When his boost driver comes out you could build an even smaller thrower using a 26650. Like the Utorch uto2 which is very cheap.

Don’t wait for BLF to make it. Make it yourself! Lol

My Convoy L6 thread with XHP70.2, Texas Avenger FET driver, Narsil v1.2 ramping firmware, lighted side switch and cut down SMO reflector. Lots of amp draws on stock driver as well.
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/54477

My Supfire L5-S thread with XHP70, Texas Avenger FET driver, NarsilM v1.0 ramping firmware and lighted side switch. My mini L6! http://budgetlightforum.com/node/55746

9 NarsilM user videos including GT
http://bit.ly/narsil-vid1

WaylonJennings
Offline
Last seen: 1 week 1 day ago
Joined: 05/16/2017 - 21:08
Posts: 210
Location: Elk Mound, Wisconsin

JasonWW wrote:
I’m sure there are lights like that already out there, they just need a driver swap. Maybe a Haikelite MT07S or Klarus G35 with one of Lexels drivers.

When his boost driver comes out you could build an even smaller thrower using a 26650. Like the Utorch uto2 which is very cheap.

Don’t wait for BLF to make it. Make it yourself! Lol

I have a MK35 that I might upgrade with a GT/Narsil driver and a 4000K or 4500K led swap. Wish me luck, I’m goin in! The 4000K in the GT has gotten me hooked. I just bought a MX30L4Cvn with XPL Hi 4000K which is now my favorite balanced light.

teacher
teacher's picture
Offline
Last seen: 30 min 56 sec ago
Joined: 02/23/2016 - 19:04
Posts: 4884
Location: NE & SW Alabama

WaylonJennings wrote:

I have a MK35 that I might upgrade with a GT/Narsil driver and a 4000K or 4500K led swap. Wish me luck, I’m goin in! (snip)
Big Smile . GOOD LUCK!!! . Thumbs Up . Wink

      You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load. / Paul "Bear" Bryant ~/~\~ "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast"

       Texas Lumens Flashlights  <>   M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$    ||||   Confucius say -- Baaa-haaaaaa......   tongue-out

         Rudeness Level /\ mΩ /\ {width:70%} /\ LightWiki /\ LED Tint Chart /\ LED Tint Picture /\ Xlamp size chart /\ BatteryU                   Flashaholic? Need Professional Help???   wink   /\ TheOriginal /\ TAB /\ LightSearch /\ BatterySearch /\ 14500's /\ DiCal                                                       

Agro
Online
Last seen: 10 min 47 sec ago
Joined: 05/14/2017 - 11:16
Posts: 1831
Location: Ślōnsk

Extremely compact 21700 flashlight powerbank.

  • USB type C
  • Astrolux 22 mm quad lens
  • Samsung LH351D, XP-L HI variants
  • Texas Commander / LD4 style driver with FET on MCPCB, regulating the light all the way to peak output. Might place other components on MCPCB too it that’s needed to save space.
  • Ramping UI

Initial, somewhat incorrect sketch:

I drew it without glass protecting the lens. I’m not sure it that’s a great choice especially that bezel blocks some light, just like it is with S2+ triples.

And there is no place to put threads between head and body tube, so this is a unibody light with press-fit driver. Not sure if that’s feasible with USB and maybe a button on the other side. You can remove the driver by poking it from the optic side.

Why did I say “maybe a button on the other side”? Because I’m wondering if a button assembly plugged into USB slot wouldn’t be a good idea.

ToyKeeper
ToyKeeper's picture
Offline
Last seen: 28 min 17 sec ago
Joined: 01/12/2013 - 14:40
Posts: 6905
Location: (469219) 2016 HO3

It seems that “extremely compact for its battery type” is a very common desire. In general, I’d like to see more lights which are barely bigger than the fuel tank.

Agro
Online
Last seen: 10 min 47 sec ago
Joined: 05/14/2017 - 11:16
Posts: 1831
Location: Ślōnsk

Unusually, I’d like to suggest not a from-scratch project but a special edition of existing light.

DQG Spy Ti which has low-bin XP-G2 replaced with Samsung LH351D. Warm CRI90. That’s it.
Well, extra points for shortening it to 10150 or 10160.

ADDED:
Or AR coated lens.
Or glow o-ring.
OK. There are a few things that could be done better.
But nevertheless this is a good light that’s extremely close to being a great light.

Agro
Online
Last seen: 10 min 47 sec ago
Joined: 05/14/2017 - 11:16
Posts: 1831
Location: Ślōnsk

I’ve had the concept in my head for a long time…I made some drawings before…but just couldn’t make it right.
Now I managed to put all the pieces together.
Welcome A7, a pocket hotrod.
Features:

  • 7 LEDs, XP sized. Dedomed Samsung LH351D would be my pick.
    • Though XP-L2 would turn it to a 5-second light
  • 21700
  • Texas-Commander / LD4 style driver integrated with the LED MCPCB regulating the light to 10+ amps. With Turbo above that.
  • Unibody
  • E-switch
  • DQG style tail cap

Here’s the drawing, next to a rough outline of Emisar D4.

Inspirations (alphabetically):
DB Custom’s Titanium X6, DQG Tiny 18650, DQG Tiny 26650, Emisar D4, Led4Power’s works, Zebralights

thijsco19
Online
Last seen: 9 min 23 sec ago
Joined: 12/14/2012 - 16:18
Posts: 1137
Location: Nearby Rotterdam, the Netherlands

Do you have a bigger picture to share? (pm?)

Agro
Online
Last seen: 10 min 47 sec ago
Joined: 05/14/2017 - 11:16
Posts: 1831
Location: Ślōnsk

No, I don’t.
I draw stuff pixel by pixel in gimp. This technique limits me heavily, but that’s what I’m capable of.
If you need larger, simply zoom it.

Enderman
Enderman's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 hours 22 min ago
Joined: 11/03/2016 - 22:42
Posts: 2638
Location: Vancouver, Canada

Why not use something like sketchup or solidworks…

Agro
Online
Last seen: 10 min 47 sec ago
Joined: 05/14/2017 - 11:16
Posts: 1831
Location: Ślōnsk

Sketchup doesn’t work on FreeBSD. I contemplated learning CAD before but never reached that point…

ToyKeeper
ToyKeeper's picture
Offline
Last seen: 28 min 17 sec ago
Joined: 01/12/2013 - 14:40
Posts: 6905
Location: (469219) 2016 HO3
Agro wrote:
I draw stuff pixel by pixel in gimp.


If anyone needs me, I’ll be over here crying.




Pages