Talk about future projects and donation topic

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DBSAR
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The Miller wrote:
DBSAR, yes you are right, sorry for again talking about a simple diffuser.

So a Q8 tube compatible head
Driver with less amps then Q8
Single warm led
USB charging.

It seems a driver like the ST needs but with less 7135 chips and charging chip

Of course in your proto the total length is more then needed, since you build on a SRK.

You had an inverted reflector/cone planned for sideways light right?

Powerbank function?
Charge the lantern with a solar panel and at night cherfe phone and or speaker.
Ample space and more versatile.

Maybe cool to do ST and lantern at the same time aiming for early summer for finishing the lantern.
You have a Q8 ordered?
Not a red lighted switch but green acting as beacon.

Definitely add a charging chip to the driver board, maybe a TP4056 chip type (as integrated designed by someone who has that capability) and indeed a USB power output is a possibility too as the lantern runs from four 18650 cells in parallel. (using four 3500mah cells would give it a 14000 mah charging theoretical capacity?) I already thought about adding a separate “glow” led to the switch boot on the prototype, based from the circuit design from the Steam Pipe light glow tube, ( which has been running for the last few years on the same pair of AA batteries) meaning from the lanterns batteries the drain would unmeasurable. edit: I did order one Q8 , ( but they say its on back order now) but that Q8 is to use as a flashlight. (not going to butcher that one for a lantern prototype.

That Canadian flashlight guy & Lantern Guru -Den / DBSARlight

DBSAR
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Added I will be building a “jig” to hold the 30Q cells in this week coming, and wired with #12 guage wire and 20 Amp switch to run the tests on the 30Q cells. (tests will be scenarios that could happen in a 4-parallel light like the Q8 or SRK, will include:

- one fully depleted cell dropped in the parallel circuit with three other full charged cells
- one full charged cell shunted in the circuit in reverse-polarity against three other full charged cells. (if all cells survive the first test)
- other tests open to suggestion if any cells survive. Smile

That Canadian flashlight guy & Lantern Guru -Den / DBSARlight

patmurris
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A bezel swap or plug-in diffuser would change the Q8 into a lantern it seems. Ramping lets you adjust the brightness (and runtime), charging and PB feature could be an add-on ‘ring’ in between the batteries and the head…

Maybe there are efficiency issues i don’t understand though… but it seems a Q8 is a good base. Why build something very similar from scratch again?

JorisFRST
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DBSAR wrote:
I’m not sure if the BLF Lantern project is still on your table as a future project, but many would still like to see that be added hopefully in the future.

Yes, a good lantern is on my wishlist. Still using the Coleman fuel one as tthere’s no good battery alternative.

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JasonWW wrote:
patmurris wrote:
While we are throwing ideas…

One thing i’ve been thinking about is a legoable set of components that would allow for a great number of lights – the generalized idea of the Q8/ST compatibility.


This concept was discussed in detail in some older threads and it never really made sense. You would have to convince a flashlight company to make all these individual parts without actually knowing which parts are going to sell well and which ones may not sell at all. It’s not practical for a company to make all these different parts and keep them in stock. The average flashlight buyer does not want to buy parts and put it together himself, that is only an enthusiast type of thing which is going to greatly limit sales. The end result will be a bulky looking and feeling flashlight due to the inefficient packaging you get by Lego’ing a bunch of universal parts.

That was the general impression in those older threads.

Stated like that it seems doomed indeed.

But i am not suggesting any one company to design and produce a whole set of components just like that. I merely point out that if ‘everybody’ would comply with some ‘agreed upon scheme and interface set’ then a lot of lights would have compatible parts, to the point it would be easy to produce new lights with just a part swap, likely the head. Do you really need another 18650 tube or tail cap when you can pick one already designed and produced?

It is a bit disturbing to see that most lights from a single manufacturer won’t lego… but then that may actually mean it is effectively impractical – for the reasons you point out.

Regarding BLF lights, i imagine planned compatibility between parts when possible could only help future projects.

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Enderman wrote:
Agro wrote:
Luminus makes some round ones, but they are neither cheap nor efficient. There are also COBs.
The circular CBT90 and CBT140 are not COBs, it is a single LED, and they are about as efficient as cree LEDs. The only difference is that instead of being 6 or 12v they are 3v and much higher current.

The CBT-140 ist very inefficient!
Both LEDs have been superseeded by the new CFT-90 which is much better, but still not as efficient and cheap as Cree LEDs. They all have very low thermal resistances though, making them much better suited for high wattages.

I have have spent some time thinking about putting a CFT-90 into my BLF GT. Conclusion: it’s a cool idea, but very impratical and extremely expensive. The GT is also actually too small to adequately cool the LED at for example 35A (120W) (I think it will go at least this high). After 10min the LED would already hit around 144°C (based on thermal analysis in the GT thread and the thermal resistance of the CFT-90).

I have found a better alternative with similar performance, but higher efficiency and practically free in comparison.

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The_Driver wrote:

The CBT-140 ist very inefficient!

Not really, 60lm/W is about the same as my XHP70 is getting when driven at 12A.

The CFT90 is also square, so that’s no fun…

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I just calculated the effciencies.
The CBT-140 (14mm^2) in it’s best available Bin (UA) @90W (25A) & 85°C will do 4122-4430lm, 46-50lm/W, up to 100cd/mm^2.

The XHP-70 P2 (28.75mm^2 with dome) will do around 6780lm 12A (92W) 85°C, 72lm/W (see test here, I added 12% brightness for the P2 Bin). De-doming it will make it the same size as the CBT-140 and reduce the brightness a bit. The driver of the XHP-70 will probably be more efficient and much, much cheaper because of lower currents.

The XHP70.2 P2 has basically the same brightness, but has a higher efficiency because of the lower Vf.

The Miller
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Wow, but a zoomie would benefit from a round DIE
Even hexagonal is better to look at then a square IMHO

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Yeah it would look way cooler with a round or hex die.
Although none of the round or hex dies are anywhere close to having the highest intensity which is what you want for throw.

It is possible however to put a metal film over the LED with any shape hole you want, for example a circle, which would leave you with the same amount of throw but less lumens, while having a round spot.
Just because it’s a zoomie doesn’t mean it has to be all about throw though, I’m sure plenty of people would be happy with decent throw and lumens while having a round/hex die projection Smile

I considered making a compact aspheric thrower using the CBT140 since it makes a ton of lumens and has a round die, unfortunately the LED costs $200 Shocked

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Hmm a metal cover, if it reflects on the bottom side, would it act like a small wavien collar and get the intensity up?

Enderman
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Maybe very little, in order to have a sharp image the piece would need to be practically sitting on top of the phosphor as close as possible.
The stuff reflected down wouldn’t have a chance to escape through the hole, it would just heat the LED up a bit more.
Reduced lumens and efficiency, but same intensity and round spot Smile

Agro
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So…maybe give up on sharp edges and try to reflect towards the centre? Smile

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Agro wrote:
So…maybe give up on sharp edges and try to reflect towards the centre? Smile

Then that would basically be a wavien collar, and you would not end up with a round die projection like the luminus LEDs.
nvanlaar
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The Miller wrote:
That could be a good idea, but would a bigger lens, maybe a second for more light ot not be interesting? you know cramp some innovations in there? maybe have the small lens close to the LED do the moving so the head holding the big lens can be part of the cooling system. a hard driven XHP35hi in there…. just thinking out loud here.

This could be interesting. The mechanism would be more complex.

“Facts don’t care about your feelings.”
~Ben Shapiro

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The Miller wrote:
I have been staring at my little Olight and On The Road i3. With a short S2+ tube for 18350 besides it Toykeeper please chime in. Yes a 16340 is smaller but is the shorty D4 really big? The Olight design is kind of really good. It is just the clip that can be better.

Here’s a D4 shorty next to an Olight S-Mini, S1, and S10. IIRC the On The Road light is a clone of the S10. I’d like to see a BLF S-Mini though…

The Olight S-series clips (especially the S-Mini) have been some of the best I’ve ever seen. I didn’t think a clip-on clip could be good before trying these, but they work really well. I also hadn’t ever cared for Olights in general, until someone gave me one and I found it was actually pretty nice.

I’d love to see a BLF version of the S-Mini with an extra-small FET+1 driver (or even just the +1, or perhaps a 2+1, or similar) and the latest tiny85 BLF firmware.

Or perhaps a 14500 version of the FW3A.

Or the CNQG brass AA with Nichia 219c, 1×7135 driver, Crescendo, and a clip.

On all of the above, I’m thinking high CRI at 4500K or 4750K. Maximum output doesn’t need to be very high; it’s more about the size, shape, quality, beam, and interface. Specs would probably not appear impressive on paper, since the goal is to make a really nice EDC. Preferably mod-friendly too, but the traits with priority are things which don’t really change much over time so it likely wouldn’t need modding to remain relevant.

The Miller
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Got it
Like the small size of the Olight but so hate the UI and it shitting off without warning on low voltage and not being able to turn it on again. A BLF firmware would solve my issues with them for sure.

The FW3A could be a good starting point for going smaller. If Fritz wants a downscale to 18350 or even 16340 tube would bring it down to really small.
In that pic the D4 looks big compared to the left one, but the 18650 tube shows they are all small to tiny Wink

The Miller
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Or of course a logical next after Q4/Q2 which are about the illusive AA 14500 driver Made big in the Q4, then can be done smaller in a tiny lights capable of running AAA.
Would still be longer then the D4 short i think

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The Miller wrote:
Like the small size of the Olight but so hate the UI and it shiutting off without warning on low voltage and not being able to turn it on again.

I understand why they did it that way (CR123 support), but it still bothers me. I want LVP and battcheck, but the Olights don’t do that and instead rely on the cell’s protection circuit to avoid damage. Sad

The Miller wrote:
In that pic the D4 looks big compared to the left one, but the 18650 tube shows they are all small to tiny Wink

I’d say I’m aiming for something about the size of a finger, but I don’t know how big your fingers are. Smile

For a 14500 light, the host I’d like to use is 76mm x 18mm. It might need to be slightly longer to allow for protected 14500 cells.

For a 16340 light, I’d ideally like to make it just as small as the S-Mini, 55mm x 21mm.

The D4 shorty is relatively large (wide) at 63mm x 28mm.

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Personally, I like 18350 more than 14500 and 16340. Same size ballpark, but significantly more power and capacity. Actually looking at the fatty Emisar D4 shorty and Peak Eiger Ultra AAA I find the size difference too small to justify the smaller light. Though it does feel better in the mouth.
I would love to see a good 18350 light smaller than D4 though. Especially a triple.
So…for me there’s only one step-down from 18650, it’s 18350. Down from it, I wouldn’t get anything larger than 10280.

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I prefer 18350 also, significantly. TK doesn’t use the brightest settings often though, so the lower power and capacity is a fair trade off for the smaller size. Ah, choices…

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ToyKeeper wrote:
The D4 shorty is relatively large (wide) at 63mm x 28mm.

Since a lot of flashlight manufacturers are making pocket clips that are clipped to the flashlight body with an open ring (like a clamp or a jaw (don’t know the appropriate word)), a groove is needed to accomodate it. To keep the wall with enough thickness behind this groove, the whole body wall is generally thicker than the one of flashlights that have a pocket clip with a complete ring or one that is screwed to the tailcap.

The reylight pineapple’s pocket clip is the kind which is the best for me.

ToyKeeper wrote:
On all of the above, I’m thinking high CRI at 4500K or 4750K. Maximum output doesn’t need to be very high; it’s more about the size, shape, quality, beam, and interface. Specs would probably not appear impressive on paper, since the goal is to make a really nice EDC. Preferably mod-friendly too, but the traits with priority are things which don’t really change much over time so it likely wouldn’t need modding to remain relevant.

Really looking forward for this as the BLF team next project.
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It makes me think just to call Olight and ask for a NW ramping version for us Smile
But calling doesnt seem to work all that good, tried getting Maglite to do Old Lumens version but did not get passed some slick “have a nice day” secretaries.

OP updated, thanks ISO!

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ToyKeeper wrote:
The Miller wrote:
Like the small size of the Olight but so hate the UI and it shutting off without warning on low voltage and not being able to turn it on again.

I understand why they did it that way (CR123 support), but it still bothers me. I want LVP and battcheck, but the Olights don’t do that and instead rely on the cell’s protection circuit to avoid damage. Sad

For an e-switch light: could you have a one-shot “disable LVP” (or “use primary cell”) configuration option with the setting stored in volatile memory? LVP would be on by default, but if you put a CR123 in, you could use the configuration option to turn LVP off until power was lost at the next cell change. At that point, LVP would automatically reactivate until you used the configuration option again.

The tradeoff is that you’d have to set the option every single time you put a CR123 in / used tailcap lockout / turned power off with a series switch. That might still be acceptable to people who normally use Li-Ion but would like an emergency CR123 capability, though; things would automatically work as expected when using a Li-Ion cell.

For a series-switched light: you’d have to save the LVP configuration in non-volatile memory, so the user would have to take responsibility for reactivating it when using a cell that needed LVP. I imagine some people would still be fine with that, especially if they normally used one type of cell or the other, so they could just set it and forget it, but there is admittedly a risk of ruining a Li-Ion if they forget to turn LVP back on after using a CR123.

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Yes, there are several decent ways firmware could support both 16340 and CR123 without over-discharging a 16340. Unfortunately, Olight doesn’t even try. Sad

OTOH, the attiny85 I’ve been using lately has unfortunately high power overhead during use (~5 mA), so it makes moon mode rather inefficient. Perhaps a more moon-friendly MCU also makes it harder to add fancy features. I’ve been meaning to experiment with the tiny85’s settings to see if I can find a way to reduce its operating power level, but I suspect the only options might require reducing PWM frequency to visible speeds… which is arguably worse than an inefficient moon mode.

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It would be great to see a AAA/10440 or AA/14500 truly pocketable BLF light with a good U/I and high cri LED. Preferably (tail) e-switch with lighted switch or very low drain moon mode to be used as night beacon.
Being able to blast in DD on Li-ion and be versatile to use on alkalines when not in a situation to get a recharge (but lower output) would be the bees knees. With Narsil or something alike would make it a priceless light to me, and I think for a lot of people.

I modded a Thrunite Ti head with MTN-12DD driver with guppydrv and XPL HI allmost 2 years ago and legoed it to the tailsection of a bare aluminium Lumintop Tool. For a 10440 it’s relatively long and it could do without the hard “click” from the button, but love it a 1000 times over a twisty.
It gets by far the most use of all my lights. Capacity is rarely an issue for daily (fairly short) use. It gets charged at least every week, but small size with big power always comes at a prize. I rarely depleted it though, 14500 would be more than enough for its use.
It is unnoticeable in a (skinny) jeans or a suit trousers pocket, length here is less of an issue than width. I wear it every day and therefore use it multiple times a day.
It’s great, but via BLF we could come up with something even better. How nice to have a light like this available to everybody!

A DQG sized AA light would be comparable in size with more capacity. Any thicker and I won’t EDC it in my pants and therefore hardly use it. I have a very nice modded 18650 DQG, but it gets way less use, since its too thick to carry in my pocket on most occasions.
The BLF-348 is nice, but I stopped using “dumb” flashlights without batt. check, programmable modes etc. IMHO the simple three or one mode flashlights are obsolete.

I do agree with TK that there is a void to fill in the small section. I by far use my 10440 lights the most. And in direct drive it is still very bright, especially for its size.

With the BLF A6, Q8 and GT there is a lot of throw and lumens in nice builds with good U/I out there.
I would love to see this in a truly pocketable BLF version!

The Miller
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ST, Short Thrower. But quad series cells,like QT more

And a check if I can use another hoster for images:
be prepared for my wicked sketch skills Big Smile

QT, same overal size as Q8, but longer head
QT set, head, a short tube and a looong tube

Lego party:

WaylonJennings
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The Miller wrote:
ST, Short Thrower. But quad series cells,like QT more

And a check if I can use another hoster for images:
be prepared for my wicked sketch skills Big Smile

QT, same overal size as Q8, but longer head
QT set, head, a short tube and a looong tube

Lego party:
!{width:100%}https://www.imageupload.co.uk/images/2017/09/14/leogoptions.jpg!

I really love this idea! The QT is exactly what I have wanted to see for a long time. All of the other options are cool also. I would be on this interest list in a second.

Agro
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Really like the concept. If I knew I could expect ST in 6 months I would skip MF-02 and wait for ST instead.
Wouldn’t extension tubes be a better idea than long ones? It would enable for example 3s lights.

Future idea, for a light that will be thread-incompatible anyway:
Make a battery tube that is male threaded on one side and female on the other, so one can just use another regular tube as an extension.

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It is very hard to align things nicely so lots of the double tube lights have different designs for the two tubes and I haven’t seen such light that looked good.
It also would increase the OD or create a wider rim.
The QT with long tube and 18350 in series could run a XHP35HI with rge GT driver (using 8 that will be a pain to charge but still Big Smile

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