Something I've been working on

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pinkpanda3310
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Something I've been working on

I’m attempting to make a high power quad xhp35.

I had a left over head from the finger sizzler but decided it was too hard to make it work neatly.

So I made a new head.

I wasn’t happy with this part so made it again. I pushed my cheapo drill press well past it’s abilities hence I made the part three times over.

I was so pleased with the last one that I rushed into drilling the centre hole and …err… didn’t get it centre Facepalm Rather than make it yet again I put it on the lathe (I have a 4 jaw chuck now) and reamed out the hole and inserted a sleeve.

I just realized I haven’t taken a pic of it with the new head Blushing Still got lots to do with this…. To be continued

EDIT – 24-4-17

This morning I took some pics of assembly and the final look. Still need to work out a switch, reconfigure the cells from 2s2p to 4s and install all the components.

I’ve been having issues with threading on my lathe lately. I’m not sure but I suspect the plastic gears behind the head stock might be the reason.

First pass

Second pass, still in the groove

Third pass Facepalm

Edited by: pinkpanda3310 on 04/25/2017 - 10:01
CRX
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Looks interesting.

MtnDon
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Worth watching. Thumbs Up

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Wauw! Looking good already!

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Have already posted this idea, but once again: this fins are useless without active (fan) cooling. For passive cooling you need at least 4mm between fins.

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Nice work! Well, the third time anyway! LOL

Reason is not automatic. Those who deny it cannot be conquered by it. Do not count on them. Leave them alone.
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kiriba-ru wrote:
For passive cooling you need at least 4mm between fins.

It would be interesting to compare the heat loss performance of this head to one with every other fin removed, to allow for better airflow. Less mass but better airflow… what would the outcome be?

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following this build, looks very unique.

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This looks pretty cool! Can’t wait until you can share the finished product.

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MtnDon wrote:

It would be interesting to compare the heat loss performance of this head to one with every other fin removed, to allow for better airflow. Less mass but better airflow… what would the outcome be?


Im into flashlight not so long, but before Ive seen lots of other powerfull devices. Look at cpu heatsinks. Before I got tons of special made heatsinks for passive cooled industrial lights, I have used usual intel heatsinks from lga775. Most of you know them for the solid copper center rod. They are useless without fan, cant handle even 10W power. All PC heatsink that made for work without fan have big distance between fins. Also, take a look at small heatsinks made for transistors and other parts in TO-220 or similar case. You can find them inside different devices, but without fan you wont find compact fins.

Need a vlogger for machine accessories reviews

MRsDNF
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Wow. What a build. You have sorta done an RBD (usually have no idea on what he’s doing) on me but loving it anyway. Thumbs Up

My current and or voltage measurements are only relevent to anything that I measure.

Budget light hobby proudly sponsored by my Mastercard and unknowingly paid for by a hard working wife. 

djozz said "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

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Looks very interesting!

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Looks very cool! I can see you’ve put a lot of work into it already. Looking forward to your next update.

I’d rather use my flashlight around the house than turn on the lights.

pinkpanda3310
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kiriba-ru wrote:
MtnDon wrote:

It would be interesting to compare the heat loss performance of this head to one with every other fin removed, to allow for better airflow. Less mass but better airflow… what would the outcome be?


Im into flashlight not so long, but before Ive seen lots of other powerfull devices. Look at cpu heatsinks. Before I got tons of special made heatsinks for passive cooled industrial lights, I have used usual intel heatsinks from lga775. Most of you know them for the solid copper center rod. They are useless without fan, cant handle even 10W power. All PC heatsink that made for work without fan have big distance between fins. Also, take a look at small heatsinks made for transistors and other parts in TO-220 or similar case. You can find them inside different devices, but without fan you wont find compact fins.

I too would be interested in seeing if anyone has done real life tests/experiments. Whilst I understand your theory isn’t walking around with light in hand somewhere between passive and active cooling? General assumption says the tips of the fins are coolest and that’s why shallow fins are more efficient (size, weight / heat emittance ratio). So any tests should be performed on a long finned item. That way the results should be more pronounced (greater difference between good and bad).

I’m not about to change the head at this stage.

Thanks for the comments Smile

EDIT – added some pics for clarity

MRsDNF
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Love the machining. With the threads, are you disengaging the half nuts at the end of the pass?

My current and or voltage measurements are only relevent to anything that I measure.

Budget light hobby proudly sponsored by my Mastercard and unknowingly paid for by a hard working wife. 

djozz said "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

pinkpanda3310
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I was using an odd set up for threading. I had an external threading tool mounted internally on the back side with the lathe in reverse. The carbide bit is designed to cut in that direction. If that doesn’t make sense basically I had it rigged so I was threading out of the head instead of into it.

Because I was having issue I tried to cut under power using the thread dial, engaging/disengaging at #1 only. I tried under power leaving the half nut engaged and reversing the lathe. Also I tried turning the chuck by hand with the half nut engaged and reversing.

All three ways seemed similarly as inaccurate. So that’s why I think it might be in the drive train. Though I when I look into it I will check if there is any slop in the half nut.

pinkpanda3310
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Out of curiosity I deleted every second fin from the pic

MRsDNF
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It sounds like you have covered all the bases. Is the toolpost locked?

My current and or voltage measurements are only relevent to anything that I measure.

Budget light hobby proudly sponsored by my Mastercard and unknowingly paid for by a hard working wife. 

djozz said "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

MtnDon
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I think that looks great!

I googled air cooling fin spacing and found lots of technical info, too technical for me right now. However, there were a couple of examples of how cooling was increased by keeping the overall heat sink dimensions (L x W x H) the same but reducing the fin count in half by increasing the spacing. One example went from a heat sink that failed to one that worked by cutting the count like that. Plus the heat sink cost less as there was less material used.

pinkpanda3310
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MRsDNF wrote:
It sounds like you have covered all the bases. Is the toolpost locked?

Lol, I’ve been caught out by that before but not this time Grad

MtnDon wrote:
I think that looks great!

I googled air cooling fin spacing and found lots of technical info, too technical for me right now. However, there were a couple of examples of how cooling was increased by keeping the overall heat sink dimensions (L x W x H) the same but reducing the fin count in half by increasing the spacing. One example went from a heat sink that failed to one that worked by cutting the count like that. Plus the heat sink cost less as there was less material used.


Interesting. I might change it yet.
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It’s looking very interesting!

pinkpanda3310
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I have a few little projects going on (not all are light related) and I’m having a hard time getting anything done so I decided just to try and concentrate on one and get it finished. So tonight I worked on wiring up the leds and driver.

Testing… testing… YAY! It worked first time! I think this is the second time in a row I have managed to light up a build on the first attempt PartyInnocentLOLCrown

Now’s probably a good time to give some spec’s. Quad xhp-35 HI E2 3C. Led4power’s LD-2M driver set to 4s (cells), 9 amps out (if you couldn’t workout the pic above Wink ), powered by 4 sony cells pulled from Makita packs.

That’s the head finished. Need to work on the tube now….

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pinkpanda, I noticed that my recent package from you included a LD-M2 in it. Do you remember what specs you had on that one? If not, I could read the documentation from led4power and figure it out. But, I figured that if you could tell me, that would save me the effort. Big Smile

Reason is not automatic. Those who deny it cannot be conquered by it. Do not count on them. Leave them alone.
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Anytime you put a light together and there is light on the first attempt is a job well done. Time for a beer. Smile

My current and or voltage measurements are only relevent to anything that I measure.

Budget light hobby proudly sponsored by my Mastercard and unknowingly paid for by a hard working wife. 

djozz said "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

pinkpanda3310
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Oh, a beer would be really … really nice right now but I’m trying to look after my health…. maybe tomorrow LOL

DavidEF – Doh! I’m really sorry, I meant to add some resistors that go with that driver. If you can wait for it I’ll send them. When I ordered the drivers from Neven I asked for a few resistors to change the parameters as I please because I didn’t have a specific build in mind when I bought them. The stock driver is 6amp. I have resistors to change to 5, 7, 8 , 9, 10, 12 amps. Additionally I have moonlight resistors. You don’t ‘have to’ change this but the more cells you use the brighter moonlight is going to be. If you can’t wait then I can give you the values of each.

Being a public holiday (to pay homage to our service men and women Beer ) I got a little more done today but came to a halt with the switch. I sifted through all my bits and pieces and scratched my head lots.

I tried to remove the board from the plastic tail but it felt as though I might snap it so I left it in there and worked on it.

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pinkpanda, No big deal. If you have the parts and want to ship them to me, that will be fine. If not, I’ll use the driver ‘As-Is’ when I’m ready to put it into something. I don’t have an immediate use for it, so time is not an issue either. Thanks!

Reason is not automatic. Those who deny it cannot be conquered by it. Do not count on them. Leave them alone.
-Ayn Rand

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No worries. I’ll try get to the post tomorrow.

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Thanks for the update. What sort of switch were you after?

My current and or voltage measurements are only relevent to anything that I measure.

Budget light hobby proudly sponsored by my Mastercard and unknowingly paid for by a hard working wife. 

djozz said "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

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nice light! For the threading issue you can try a few things. One, keep the 1/2 nuts engaged and either reverse the motor (if you can) or reverse the chuck by hand. That will see if it’s an “engaging at the right place” issue. Second, check the leadscrew to make sure it has no play back and forth – that gave me fits until I figured it out. Third, lock the compound and try threading straight in with the cross slide – there may be play in your compound nut which is causing the double tracking.

let us know how you get on!

pinkpanda3310
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MRsDNF wrote:
Thanks for the update. What sort of switch were you after?

I was thinking of using a button I had left over from this build but I don’t think it will fit the colour scheme too well – silver head, black body, yellow tail and copper switch…. Question

mattthemuppet wrote:
nice light! For the threading issue you can try a few things. One, keep the 1/2 nuts engaged and either reverse the motor (if you can) or reverse the chuck by hand. That will see if it’s an “engaging at the right place” issue. Second, check the leadscrew to make sure it has no play back and forth – that gave me fits until I figured it out. Third, lock the compound and try threading straight in with the cross slide – there may be play in your compound nut which is causing the double tracking.

let us know how you get on!


Thanks Matt. I’ll definitely be checking play in the lead screw. What type of machine do you have?
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I took the suggestions mentioned above and cut every second fin (also I liked the look of the of the edited pic I did). I still haven’t worked on the switch Facepalm

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