FW3A, a TLF/BLF EDC flashlight - SST-20 available, coupon codes public

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djozz
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ToyKeeper wrote:
joechina wrote:
I have a triple 219B here sitting on their CU-PCB. And I am a bit afraid not to fry them in a FW3A. Do you plan to use a -20% version of Andúril?

No, but I would set the ceiling to the highest regulated level, and I doubt I’ll use it above that level much.

The 219B has a higher Vf than 219C, which makes it harder to overdrive. OTOH, it also turns into smoke at a much lower current. But I’ve had FET-based 219B triples before and haven’t had any issues. It’s 219C which really runs into problems on direct drive.

I don’t plan on giving it a hot rod cell either though. Something with more mAh and less current suits my use better.


The original 219B has a higher Vf but the 219B V1, which is the one sold atm by Clemence and maybe others, has a Vf just as low as the 219C, but indeed without its current handling.
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/43751
MascaratumB
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chadvone wrote:
Finnno wrote:
ToyKeeper wrote:
….
A silly question maybe, but…how did FW3A end up being less sturdy than Emisar, since they are very roughly the same size? Is it different materials, thinner wall…?

What you talking about?


I guess it is this:
http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1236354#comment-1236354

[REVIEWS] AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// XTAR: PB2 Charger /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 /// LIVARNOLUX: 314791 /// SKILHUNT: M150

Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses: 1 / 2 /// Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)

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chadvone
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I didn’t see that Finnno. Now you got me wondering too

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Finnno wrote:
chadvone wrote:
Finnno wrote:
ToyKeeper wrote:
….
A silly question maybe, but…how did FW3A end up being less sturdy than Emisar, since they are very roughly the same size? Is it different materials, thinner wall…?

What you talking about?

Quote:

How does the FW3A compare to the Emisar D4? FW3A advantages: Slightly smaller, lighter, nicer clip, metal tail switch, higher regulated modes, cheaper (probably), much fancier firmware. D4 advantages: Sturdier, more emitter/optic/host choices, rubber side switch, higher turbo modes, available from mid-2017, also comes in throwy D1/D1S flavors.

I would guess the tube-in-tube design is more prone to problems/has thinner walls/ …?

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Finnno
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nvanlaar wrote:

I would guess the tube-in-tube design is more prone to problems/has thinner walls/ …?

This double tube was my prime suspect too

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djozz wrote:
The original 219B has a higher Vf but the 219B V1, which is the one sold atm by Clemence and maybe others, has a Vf just as low as the 219C, but indeed without its current handling. http://budgetlightforum.com/node/43751

Yow. Somehow I missed that one. That seems like a recipe for magic smoke.

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Finnno wrote:
A silly question maybe, but…how did FW3A end up being less sturdy than Emisar, since they are very roughly the same size? Is it different materials, thinner wall…?

The D4 is unusually sturdy. Every part of it is thick. I don’t think it really needs to be so thick, except up at the head for thermal purposes.

The FW3A is thinner and has its material split between two layers. It opts for a more minimalist design in general, so it won’t hold up as well to being run over by a car. OTOH it also weighs less and is more ergonomic so it’s easier to carry.

Finnno
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ToyKeeper wrote:
Finnno wrote:
A silly question maybe, but…how did FW3A end up being less sturdy than Emisar, since they are very roughly the same size? Is it different materials, thinner wall…?

The D4 is unusually sturdy. Every part of it is thick. I don’t think it really needs to be so thick, except up at the head for thermal purposes.

The FW3A is thinner and has its material split between two layers. It opts for a more minimalist design in general, so it won’t hold up as well to being run over by a car. OTOH it also weighs less and is more ergonomic so it’s easier to carry.


Does that imply that S2+ or A6 are “abnormally” sturdy, or way oversized then?

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They have reflectors and tall springs, and a non E-switch tailcap. That makes for a wide difference.

In relation to the contacts, what decisions have been made? Are we going just with double springs, or are we going to push limits with dual BeCu springs?

I’m so excited for this light Smile

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Finnno wrote:
Does that imply that S2+ or A6 are “abnormally” sturdy, or way oversized then?

Emisar’s lights are slightly thicker than a S2+ or A6. However, yes, I think the S2+ and A6 could also stand to be shorter and thinner. Potentially about 2-3 mm thinner and 15-20 mm shorter. I have other 18650 clicky-switch lights that size, and I prefer them because they aren’t as big.

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JasonWW wrote:
eas wrote:
The LH351D is a 3535 emitter.

It is? I wonder why MTN doesn’t offer them on a mcpcb? I might have gotten this led confused with the Luxeon V.

I’ll ask MTN if they sell them on a mcpcb. It might just be a glitch that the website doesn’t show the option.


Richard has told me:
Quote:
We currently don’t offer it reflowed on anything except for a triple, but will probably reflow some with our next 16mm/20mm reflow batch in the next week or so.  We are trying not to do singles anymore on anything except for 10mm/26mm/31mm MCPCBs as they take too much time.

This is pretty disappointing, but I did just successfully reflow a FET with great success using my new hot air reflow station. Maybe I will try leds next. Wink

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Tom Tom
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ToyKeeper wrote:
I would set the ceiling to the highest regulated level, and I doubt I’ll use it above that level much.

Quite. Which is also driving my strong interest in this, DEL’s driver with x1 and x7 (I think) AMC chips.

That is huge, having regulation (and efficiency) at all usable levels. Goodbye FET+1.

Plus Anduril of course.

I couldn’t care less about the FET, that’s just for headline figures for a few seconds on a torch of these dimensions, and over-powered-ness (if that’s a word).

Putting an E-switch in the tail, with all the knock-on complications, is bold. Very bold IMHO, but if it works, great. The tail is the proper place for the switch on a torch of this size.

Let’s hope Lumintop don’t glue the thing together, that the fancy suit fits well and somehow dissipates some of the heat, then we can mod-on happily.

Fun times ahead. I’ve only reserved two, maybe I should up the order ?

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Jerommel wrote:
ToyKeeper wrote:
I have a couple lights at 4000K with 92 CRI and 95 CRI. I also have several around 5000K with only 70 CRI. I find that the 4000K ones look yellow, while the 5000K ones look white and give better color rendition.
Hmm… I don’t find the 219C 4000K yellow at all, unless you compare it to cooler whites, but that’s a matter of colour temperature. Must say though, and this makes a lot of difference, i don’t have any 4000K 219C in a reflector light.

I have many 219c 90CRI 4000k lights (reflector and optics) and they are very yellow when compared to the 219B 9080 4000k, E21A 4000k, and Cree 5D tint. The LH351D 90CRI 4000k looks similar to the 219c and also looks very yellow. I would take a Cree XP-G2 70CRI 4000k 5A or 5D tint and color rendering over a 4000k 90CRI 219c or LH351D because the yellowish tint ruins the high CRI.

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Is the picture above an accurate representation of the size of the FW3A and the Emisar? I was under the impression that there was a bigger difference, and the FW3A was smaller.

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cabfrank wrote:
Is the picture above an accurate representation of the size of the FW3A and the Emisar? I was under the impression that there was a bigger difference, and the FW3A was smaller.

That was the first prototype, I guess, so maybe it could have changed meanwhile!
Only the ones having the most recent one can say something!
Still, being (slighty) smaller than the D4 is already a thing to be noted!!

[REVIEWS] AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// XTAR: PB2 Charger /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 /// LIVARNOLUX: 314791 /// SKILHUNT: M150

Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses: 1 / 2 /// Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)

GIVEAWAY: 1

Finnno
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ToyKeeper wrote:
Finnno wrote:
Does that imply that S2+ or A6 are “abnormally” sturdy, or way oversized then?

Emisar’s lights are slightly thicker than a S2+ or A6. However, yes, I think the S2+ and A6 could also stand to be shorter and thinner. Potentially about 2-3 mm thinner and 15-20 mm shorter. I have other 18650 clicky-switch lights that size, and I prefer them because they aren’t as big.


Interesting. For me personally it would also be interesting if a 14500 light could be slimmed down in a similar fashion – my notion of an ideal light to carry every day

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Finnno wrote:
ToyKeeper wrote:
Finnno wrote:
Does that imply that S2+ or A6 are “abnormally” sturdy, or way oversized then?

Emisar’s lights are slightly thicker than a S2+ or A6. However, yes, I think the S2+ and A6 could also stand to be shorter and thinner. Potentially about 2-3 mm thinner and 15-20 mm shorter. I have other 18650 clicky-switch lights that size, and I prefer them because they aren’t as big.


Interesting. For me personally it would also be interesting if a 14500 light could be slimmed down in a similar fashion – my notion of an ideal light to carry every day

The Lumintop Tool AA, Utorch UT01, Maratac AA are about as minimal sized as possible
ToyKeeper
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The smallest AA-sized light I have is a L3 L10, which is 17mm x 79mm. I also have a brass AA light which is 18mm x 76mm, and it has a tail clicky.

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ToyKeeper wrote:
The smallest AA-sized light I have is a L3 L10, which is 17mm x 79mm. I also have a brass AA light which is 18mm x 76mm, and it has a tail clicky.

The L10C is also a good alternative to the L10 if you don’t mind the longer body.
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ToyKeeper wrote:

(snip)
The FW3A is thinner and has its material split between two layers. It opts for a more minimalist design in general, so it won’t hold up as well to being run over by a car. OTOH it also weighs less and is more ergonomic so it’s easier to carry.
I can certainly live with that. Thumbs Up ……
…….. In my entire 66.7 years I have yet to runover (or has anyone else) one of my flashlights with a car or truck. . Wink

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

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ToyKeeper wrote:
The smallest AA-sized light I have is a L3 L10, which is 17mm x 79mm. I also have a brass AA light which is 18mm x 76mm, and it has a tail clicky.

I would like a DQG Slim Ti light (AA/14500 ; 7,63cm x 1,68 cm ) with FW3A’s e-switch on the tail Love

[REVIEWS] AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// XTAR: PB2 Charger /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 /// LIVARNOLUX: 314791 /// SKILHUNT: M150

Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses: 1 / 2 /// Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)

GIVEAWAY: 1

chadvone
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Smaller than D4. I will loose it for sure.

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teacher wrote:
ToyKeeper wrote:
(snip) The FW3A is thinner and has its material split between two layers. It opts for a more minimalist design in general, so it won’t hold up as well to being run over by a car. OTOH it also weighs less and is more ergonomic so it’s easier to carry.
I can certainly live with that. Thumbs Up …… …….. In my entire 66.7 years I have yet to runover (or has anyone else) one of my flashlights with a car or truck. . Wink

True that. It’s not something I plan on doing, and not something I expect to happen by accident either.

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teacher wrote:
ToyKeeper wrote:
(snip) The FW3A is thinner and has its material split between two layers. It opts for a more minimalist design in general, so it won’t hold up as well to being run over by a car. OTOH it also weighs less and is more ergonomic so it’s easier to carry.
I can certainly live with that. Thumbs Up …… …….. In my entire 66.7 years I have yet to runover (or has anyone else) one of my flashlights with a car or truck. . Wink

Actually ………I did manage to do that Facepalm

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joechina wrote:
ToyKeeper wrote:
I’m thinking about modding at least one of mine too. If I can get some 219B emitters, I think I’ll put those in it. They’re my favorite, and they work really well in a 10511 which has had the frosting polished off.

I have a triple 219B here sitting on their CU-PCB.
And I am a bit afraid not to fry them in a FW3A. Do you plan to use a -20% version of Andúril?

Couldnt you just feed them with an NCR18650GA or or NCR18650B? That would limit the current easy.

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shirnask wrote:
teacher wrote:
ToyKeeper wrote:

(snip)
The FW3A is thinner and has its material split between two layers. It opts for a more minimalist design in general, so it won’t hold up as well to being run over by a car. OTOH it also weighs less and is more ergonomic so it’s easier to carry.
I can certainly live with that. Thumbs Up ……
…….. In my entire 66.7 years I have yet to runover (or has anyone else) one of my flashlights with a car or truck. . Wink
Actually ………I did manage to do that Facepalm
Oh no…. Sad .. I’m not saying I can’t or won’t… just have not so far. If I ever did & the light broke….. I wouldn’t blame the light anyway.

I almost backed over an expensive fly rod & reel one time, but thank goodness I remembered it about 6 inches before things got real costly. Smile

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

       Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$  

         Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart  

      Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help???            TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal 

 

                                             

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My main interest in this light is the tailswitch and overall size…though hopefully those prototypes aren’t accurate as I was secretly hoping this to be the size of the DQG Brass beauty, with the fancy and efficient ramping UI and triple emitters, since that particular light no longer seems to exist..

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06:53 AM
Saturday, November 10, 2018
Coordinated Universal Time (UTC)
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Updating this Request List.
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Updated list : … In upgrade
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Primary Interest List, (main): See Post # 4, Page 1 .
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pepinfaxera: Interest List: See #Post , Page 111

pepinfaxera: Interest List, duplicate: See # Post , Page 71 ,
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Correcting: …
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1125 – # Post . Bob_McBob

Bob_McBob wrote:
I’m 1038, could you put me down for another two please?
See # Post: 2856, page 96
Apologies, I’m sorry.
Bob_McBob is #1038 and #1142,
Bob_McBob has requested three Flashlights “3”
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Moparguy is #1278, #1279, #1280 and #1281,
Moparguy only asked for two flashlights, (request two flashlights) “2”. see: Post # 3547
Moparguy wrote:

Please sign me up for 2 ea. FW3A flashlights.


- .
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Dadpool is #385 and #1331, Dadpool only asked for a flashlight, (ask for a flashlight) “1”. see:
Dadpool wrote:
Post #710 Please add me to the list for 1 light. Thanks!
Dadpool wrote:
Post #3893 Thought I’d signed up already, but just in case I’m signing up now!

Also voted in both polls. This looks like it’s going to be a great light.


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# Post lew123 – lew123 is #1337and #1493.
lew123 only requests a flashlight, # Post and # Post .
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599Post #1293 . -Chinooker
Delete Post #599 .Chinooker
chinooker wrote:
sorry, spent this money while waiting
please remove #600

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1260 – # Post . manithree
1260# Post Delete manithree
manithree wrote:
I think I’m out on this one, please remove me from the interest list.

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Jambo is #310, #723, #724;
Request to delete one, (Remove one), #724
Request two flashlights, (only wants two flashlights), #310 and 723.
Jambo wrote:
# Post I must apologise profusely, I asked for two of these in post number 1574, I completely forgot I’d already asked for one a few months earlier in post number 889.

Could I be a pain and just have two instead of three please? Again, I apologise. Got a bit overexcited possibly!


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Page 1 Post # 4,
1092: Post #2769, Tom Tom
1093: Post #2769, Tom Tom
1092 Post #4950 Tom Tom Delete
1093 Post #4950 Tom Tom Delete
Tom Tom wrote:
So pipinferaxa, I officially declare that I am out of this one, as I previously said that I would if a further month went by with no news.
… . . . … . . . … . . . …
Please remove me from the interest list (2 torches).

Thank you.


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1357 : Post #3926, Hesh24
1358 : Post #3926, Hesh24
1358 : See # Post , . Hesh24, Delete 1358 .
Hesh24 wrote:
Just one please. Sorry for the duplicated post.

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Last requests : primary Interest List, (main): See Post # 4, Page 1 .

1502 – # Post . Sillen
1503 – # Post . Hexlord
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New requests: Not updated in Post #4 page 1.
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1504 – # Post . scalyman.
1505 – # Post . LGW
1506 – # Post . gottobegeek
1507 – # Post . sergey—neo
1508 – # Post . Nichia
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1510 – # Post . Jaded
1511 – # Post . idleprocess
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1513 – # Post . sergey—neo
1514 – # Post . zapviii
1515 – # Post . gottawearshades
1516 – # Post odriewniffe
1517 – # Post . adam7027
1518 – # Post . adam7027
1519 – # Post . adam7027
1520 – # Post . WhitedragonBC
1521 – # Post . gtv4
1522 – # Post . theRealSammyG
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1524 – # Post . Fiiish
1525 – # Post . lachesis
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1530 – # Post . jimmymke
1531 – # Post . McLight
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1533 – # Post . BadWolf
1534 – # Post . interval
1535 – # Post . Aleister
1536 – # Post . TheOnlyDocc
1537 – # Post . alchemi
1538 – # Post . bmansc
1539 – # Post . Sherbona
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1541 – # Post . Cookster
1542 – # Post . Azza
1543 – # Post . DontWorryScro
1544 – # Post . stolikat
1545 – # Post . 10fold
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wishiwereaskibum wrote: I’m in for one if not too late!.
wishiwereaskibum is at numbers #665, #675 and #1165. : How many flashlights do you want in total? … x … units?
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In upgrade . . . In upgrade . . . In upgrade . . . In upgrade . . . In upgrade
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Sorry for my bad English
(google translator) , (https://www.deepl.com/translator)

ToyKeeper
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Joined: 01/12/2013 - 14:40
Posts: 9958
Location: (469219) 2016 HO3
Camo5 wrote:
I was secretly hoping this to be the size of the DQG Brass beauty

The FW3A is shorter than the CNQG brass beauty, but it is wider. That’s to be expected, since it uses a triple instead of a single emitter.

DavidEF
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Location: Salisbury, North Carolina, USA
Tom Tom wrote:
ToyKeeper wrote:
I would set the ceiling to the highest regulated level, and I doubt I’ll use it above that level much.

Quite. Which is also driving my strong interest in this, DEL’s driver with x1 and x7 (I think) AMC chips.

That is huge, having regulation (and efficiency) at all usable levels. Goodbye FET+1.

Plus Anduril of course.

I couldn’t care less about the FET, that’s just for headline figures for a few seconds on a torch of these dimensions, and over-powered-ness (if that’s a word).


If you like that, you might also appreciate Mike C’s approach. He has a 4-channel driver that uses banks of AMC7135’s additively to increase current up to the max level of the driver. Only a single AMC7135 chip is PWM’d so most mode levels are completely PWM free. The PWM channel is for modes below 350mA current.

Here’s one of his driver threads, if you want to check it out.

The Cycle of Goodness: “No one prospers without rendering benefit to others”
- The YKK Philosophy

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