FW3A, a TLF/BLF EDC flashlight - SST-20 available, coupon codes public

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Henk4U2
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ToyKeeper wrote:
If I had one I would probably take the clip off, or maybe break off the extra fold.

C’mon, lights have feelings too, you know?

You are a flashaholic if you are forced to come out of the closet, to make room for more flashlights.

JasonWW
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TK, since no one from Maukka’s review has asked here yet, can you tell us why the two battery tubes in the FW3A can not be equally lengthened 0.5mm to 1mm so as to make it fit both flat top and button top batteries?

(Right now it only fits some button top, but not all. Max battery length is 66mm)

I figure there must be a reason and it was probably determined over a year ago, but people where asking and I don’t know the answer.

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JasonWW wrote:
TK, since no one from Maukka’s review has asked here yet, can you tell us why the two battery tubes in the FW3A can not be equally lengthened 0.5mm to 1mm so as to make it fit both flat top and button top batteries?

It’s mostly just too late, and would risk making shorter batteries lose contact when bumped.

Also, I think Lumintop may have only a compiled version of the 3D model, without any way to modify it. They might need the original from Fritz instead of an exported / compiled version. I’m not sure about the details though.

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I'm surprised this has even come up. High-drain cells are flat-top by default. Button-tops are weird and abnormal for high-drain, unprotected cells. (I actually had to be very careful buying batteries for my L6 for this reason!)

 

Aren't most super-compact lights advertised similarly, some kind of "unprotected/flat-top only, others may not fit"? My Zebralight SC62, Lumzoo GH10, and Emisar D4 all have battery fitment concerns. Two of those aren't even high-drain! I'm sure we will get reviews very quickly in which members measure very precisely and test with a variety of cells, between protected and not, button-top and not. 

EDC Rotation: ZL SC62 | Jaxman E2L XP-G2 5A | Purple S2+ XPL-HI U6-3A | D4 w/ Luxeon V | RRT-01 
EagTac D25C Ti | DQG Slim AA Ti | UF-T1 by CRX | Olight S1 | Klarus Mini One Ti
L6 XHP70.2 P2 4000K FET+7135 | Jaxman M8 | MF02 | Jaxman Z1 CULNM1.TG | Blue S2+ w/ ML Special
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Others: Nitecore EC23 | Nebo Twyst | Streamlight ProTac 1AA | TerraLux LightStar 100

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I increased the available inner length of four Utorch UT01s by simply adding a snug-fitted circle of copper wire inside the tailcap, such that it makes full contact with the end of the tube. Takes five minutes, and works like a charm. It’s a very easy way to add a couple of mm’s.

I suppose this light might be somehow structurally different to prevent that from working, but it’s one potential fix if length is a problem.

JasonWW
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Scallywag wrote:
High-drain cells are flat-top by default.

No, no, it makes no difference if it’s a high drain or low drain or high capacity or whatever. All the 18650s from the “Big 5” Japanese companies (Sanyo, Panasonic, Sony, Samsung and LG) only come as flat top. It is the distributors that will add the button top which is why there are so many different sizes and styles of button top.

Now if your talking about any other battery company, then the sky is the limit and anything is possible. You can get 18650 batteries made in smaller factories as well as all different sizes, top configurations and protection circuitry. Some smalker companies will even take a Big 5 battery and rewrap it with and without a button top and/or protection circuitry.

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Tumbleweed48 wrote:
I increased the available inner length of four Utorch UT01s by simply adding a snug-fitted circle of copper wire inside the tailcap, such that it makes full contact with the end of the tube. Takes five minutes, and works like a charm. It’s a very easy way to add a couple of mm’s.

I suppose this light might be somehow structurally different to prevent that from working, but it’s one potential fix if length is a problem.


There’s no way to do that on the FW3A that I can see. There’s no need for it either. Just use a flat top. I bet Neal will offer it with a battery installed like he did with other lights. At least I hope so.

A good flat top like a Samsung 30Q or 35E should only cost $5. I don’t see the need for anyone to get worked up over this battery.

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JasonWW wrote:
Tumbleweed48 wrote:
I increased the available inner length of four Utorch UT01s by simply adding a snug-fitted circle of copper wire inside the tailcap, such that it makes full contact with the end of the tube. Takes five minutes, and works like a charm. It’s a very easy way to add a couple of mm’s.

I suppose this light might be somehow structurally different to prevent that from working, but it’s one potential fix if length is a problem.


There’s no way to do that on the FW3A that I can see. There’s no need for it either. Just use a flat top. I bet Neal will offer it with a battery installed like he did with other lights. At least I hope so.

A good flat top like a Samsung 30Q or 35E should only cost $5. I don’t see the need for anyone to get worked up over this battery.

I don’t have an FW3A. However, I suspect it would be possible to mod the light for extra length providing there are sufficient threads to allow it to be unscrewed enough and still hold together.

However, it would take some experimentation and would certainly take a lot more than 5 minutes.

A single c-ring created from wire or a narrow copper ring would not be sufficient. You would need 2 rings: 1 for the inner tube and one for the outer. And they would need to be separated by some kind of insulating material. Kapton tape or maybe Arctic Alumina epoxy.

These rings would need to be roughly the same thickness as the stock body and inner tubes with a similar gap between. They would also need to be the same height. Get it wrong and the switch won’t work right.

Easiest way to do it is probably to:

  • Cut a very thin uniform length from a copper sheet. Try to make it as narrow as possible. Maybe 1-2 mm thick.
  • Cut the strip into 2 separate pieces.
  • Bend each strip into a C-ring. One for the inner tube, one for the outer. Test for fit.
  • Run a couple strips of kapton tape along the transition between the two tubes. Maybe super-glue it in place.
  • Super-glue the other other tube to the top of the kapton tape.
  • Use a knife and trim off any kapton tape sticking out the top or bottom of your c-ring sandwich.
  • File the top and bottom of the rings so they are completely uniform.
  • If necessary to maintain good battery contact, replace one of the stock springs with a longer low-resistance spring.

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Lest we forget what is really important, at this particular time; as we ‘patiently’ wait for the FW3A to be born,,,,, Wink
I give you…… THE LIST !!!!!

UPDATE

Model List for the FW3_ Series flashlight. *Wish List that is*.
.
The LIST

FW3AC = Apple Coral (Melithea)
FW3Ba = Bakelite
FW3Be = Beryllium
FW3BC = Beryllium copper
FW3BF = Buckyfiber
FW3Bi = Bismuth
FW3BR = Brass
FW3BZ = Bronze
FW3C = Copper
FW3Ca = Catalin
FW3CA = Carbide
FW3CC = Cool Colors (choice of: green, red, blue, purple, orange, black, & gray)
FW3CE = Ceramic
FW3CF = Carbon Fiber
FW3CG = Clear Glass
FW3CO = Cobalt
FW3Cr = Crystal
FW3CR = Chromium
FW3D = Damascus
FW3Di = Diamond
FW3F = Fire (an even cheaper copy of the FW3XXX. Use at own risk.)
FW3G = Gold
FW3I = Cast Iron
FW3Iv = Ivory
FW3L = Lead
FW3Le = Lexan
FW3M = Mokume
FW3Met = Meteorite
FW3Mg = Magnesium
FW3Mo = Moissanite
FW3N = Naked
FW3O = Osmium
FW3Ob = Obsidian
FW3P = Platinum
FW3P la = Plaskon
FW3PP = Personal Preference (have it your way… everything is optional)
FW3PSk = PlaySkool (kids version help's identify future flasholics & modders.)
FW3PW = Petrified Wood
FW3R = Rubber (for those who treat lights roughly)
FW3RS = Red Stag
FW3S = Stainless
FW3SaS = Sambar Stag
FW3SS = Sterling Silver
FW3St = Stellite
FW3T = Titanium
FW3TD = Tracking Device (for those who tend to lose lights)
FW3Tim = Timascus (Titanium Damascus)
FW3Tu = Tungsten
FW3U D = Uranium – Depleted
FW3V = Vibram (for those individuals prone to drop their lights)
FW3W 1/2 = Walrus (1 = Baculum / 2 = Ivory)
FW3WT = Warthog Tusk
FW3W = Wood
FW3XXX = Cheap fake/knockoff copy of FW3A. Key word, 'cheap'. Use as loaner light.
FW3Zn = Zinc

_____

Special Order / Ready for purchase _In your dreams_. Wink

  • FW3UN = Unoptainium

_____
Use within attention to CAUTION listed

  • FW3Ga = Galluim (CAUTION— low melting point. DO NOT EXCEED)

___________
Caution & Protective Gear Required

Could be & probably Will Be HAZARDOUS to Health & Life!!

..!..USE AT YOUR OWN RISK & PERIL...!.

  • FW3PL = Plutonium (No battery needed. USE WITH CAUTION!!)
  • FW3U R = Uranium – Raw (No battery needed. USE WITH CAUTION!!)

_______
…………….FOR COMPLETELY HOMEMADE LIGHTS ONLY…………….

TRY TO USE ONLY IF YOU HAVE A DEATH WISH, BECAUSE YOU WILL DIE

YES…. DIE!! GRAVE YARD DEAD. YOU WILL MOST LIKELY BE IN TINY BITS.

  • FW3AA = Azidoazide Azide (CAUTIONDEADLYSEE ABOVE)

___________
SciFi Models

  • FW3Ad = Adamantium
  • FW3CD = Carbon Dioxide
  • FW3DG = Dragon Glass
  • FW3DI = Dry Ice
  • FW3Kr = Kryptonite
  • FW3LN = Liquid Nitro
  • FW3Mi = Mithril
  • FW3MF = “Mr. Fusion” (power source)
  • FW3TAl = Transparent Aluminum
  • FW3Vi = Vibranium

___________
PENDING

  • FW3XX = ??? (waiting for instruction from Rat_Racer)

__________
Please Note:

  • 1. If your model or suggestion was omitted, my apologies; I simply overlooked it.
  • 2. THE LIST will be update until the FW3A is announced for sale. After that there will be no further updates. Sad . It will be time at that point to get real serious about reading the “I ordered mine.” or “I ordered 3.” , etc., etc. posts. Wink

………

Please …… Do Not “Quote” this looooong post. . Thank you. Thumbs Up

…..
Added…. 22 February 2019

  • FW3AC = Apple Coral (Melithea)
  • FW3DG = Dragon Glass
  • FW3F = Fire (an even cheaper copy of the FW3XXX. Use at own risk.)
  • FW3Iv = Ivory
  • FW3Ob = Obsidian
  • FW3PP = Personal Preference (have it your way... everything is optional)
  • FW3PW = Petrified Wood
  • FW3RS = Red Stag
  • FW3SaS = Sambar Stag
  • FW3W 1/2 = Walrus (1 = Baculum / 2 = Ivory)
  • FW3WT = Warthog Tusk
  • FW3Zn = Zinc

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

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CheapThrills
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Big Smile Thumbs Up
peabody
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That list cracks me up. TY Teach.

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ToyKeeper wrote:
Coscar wrote:
Are you still not sure …?

No, you clarified. Smile

It looks like it would work on a baseball cap, if it’s not too heavy, but wouldn’t work very well in most other places. If I had one I would probably take the clip off, or maybe break off the extra fold.

Thanks for the reply TK
I have an 18650 A6 with a reverse clip on a cap that I keep on a nail by the door. I use it more frequently than any other light(including Emisars). Although the business end hangs over a bit, weight is not a problem if the cap is ‘secure’. I dont think the FW3A is as long. I was hoping someone might know a good supplier for clips that are similar this one that I could mod. If it involves more than just dremeling the ring, I probably wont go to the trouble. Anyone?

Thanks

Im not a Pessimist …. just an Optimist with a lot of experience

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Isn’t it a little difficult to use a tail switch on a baseball-cap light? It seems like it would be a lot easier to use a side switch. Instead of a FW3A, for that purpose I’d probably try an Olight S2 or similar.

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FW3DG = Dragon Glass…..Winter is Coming!

Coscar
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ToyKeeper wrote:
Isn’t it a little difficult to use a tail switch on a baseball-cap light? It seems like it would be a lot easier to use a side switch. Instead of a FW3A, for that purpose I’d probably try an Olight S2 or similar.

Not really with the 18650 A6 but I also tried it with a 18350 short tube and that does carry better but at the cost of runtime. The longer tube really isnt that bad when you need two hands.

Im not a Pessimist …. just an Optimist with a lot of experience

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Coscar wrote:
ToyKeeper wrote:
Coscar wrote:
Are you still not sure …?

No, you clarified. Smile

It looks like it would work on a baseball cap, if it’s not too heavy, but wouldn’t work very well in most other places. If I had one I would probably take the clip off, or maybe break off the extra fold.

Thanks for the reply TK
I have an 18650 A6 with a reverse clip on a cap that I keep on a nail by the door. I use it more frequently than any other light(including Emisars). Although the business end hangs over a bit, weight is not a problem if the cap is ‘secure’. I dont think the FW3A is as long. I was hoping someone might know a good supplier for clips that are similar this one that I could mod. If it involves more than just dremeling the ring, I probably wont go to the trouble. Anyone?

Thanks

You know I agree that generally the dual direction clip is a great theory that fails in execution and real use, mostly due to overall thickness and poor shape. The FW3A though has a really good chance to change that with the tapered tube, since the ‘gap’ in head-down mode is ‘inside’ the diameter. As demonstrated in the rendering I quoted, there’s no excessive thickness and it looks very possible to work well. Granted, with that said, I don’t ever carry or utilize this design with tail-switch lights and I don’t wear duck-billed caps (I have other headlamps), but plenty may want one, and I think there is space in the after-market for this design to be offered.

teacher
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CheapThrills wrote:
Big Smile Thumbs Up
My feelings exactly Cheap Thrills!! Thumbs Up . Big Smile Big Smile . Wink
_______

peabody wrote:
That list cracks me up. TY Teach.
Your welcome peabody, my pleasure. Beer . Beer
It pretty well “cracks me up” too. There has/have certainly been some unique suggestions for sure…… Wink

_______

Sparks65 wrote:
FW3DG = Dragon Glass…..Winter is Coming!
It is done my BLF friend from Big Sky Country!!! . . . Thumbs Up

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

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joechina
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Are we now officially back from 67mm to 66mm in battery length?

teacher
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joechina wrote:
Are we now officially back from 67mm to 66mm in battery length?
It has always been 66mm hasn’t it??
From the OP??

The FW3A

Small elegant EDC triple flashlight designed by Fritz15

  • Runs on a single 18650 battery.
  • 92.5 × 25.5 mm: Unusually small for an 18650 light — about the size of a SK-68 (1xAA).
  • Battery size: 18mm x 65mm (66mm maximum). Protected cells won’t fit.
  • Tail e-switch.
  • Wide range from ~0.3 lm to ~3000 lm.
  • Regulated output up to ~1000 lm.
  • Fancy yet easy UI.
  • Nice clip firmly attached.
  • Good ergonomics.

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

       Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$  

         Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart  

      Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help???            TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal 

 

                                             

mortuus
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It doesnt say tho specific if button top cells will fit or not ?

...where Frugal meets with Flashlight!

teacher
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mortuus wrote:
It doesnt say tho specific if button top cells will fit or not ?

Maybe they will, maybe they won’t.
If they are not over 66mm, the way I read it; they should fit.
If they are over 66mm, they probably will not fit.

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

       Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$  

         Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart  

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teacher wrote:

FW3XXX = @Cheap fake/knockoff copy of FW3A. Key word, ‘cheap’. Use as loaner light.

Wouldn’t the fake/knockoff be called FW3fire…?

Also I didn’t find my own personal led preference (because it’s better than everybody else’s preference Wink ), I want lightsaber green, please Innocent …. for just such occasions I need to defend myself against Tusken Raiders (sand people).

teacher
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pinkpanda3310 wrote:
teacher wrote:

FW3XXX = @Cheap fake/knockoff copy of FW3A. Key word, ‘cheap’. Use as loaner light.
Wouldn’t the fake/knockoff be called FW3fire…?

Also I didn’t find my own personal led preference (because it’s better than everybody else’s preference Wink ), I want lightsaber green, please Innocent …. for just such occasions I need to defend myself against Tusken Raiders (sand people).

Point taken pinkpanda3310. As ‘keeper of THE LIST…. it is my aim to register any & all requests….. yours have been added. Thumbs Up . Big Smile Big Smile Big Smile
  • FW3F = Fire (an even cheaper copy of the FW3XXX. Use at own risk.)
  • FW3PP = Personal Preference (have it your way… everything is optional)

Good luck with those “Tusken Raiders” too……. Wink .. Beer

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

       Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$  

         Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart  

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ToyKeeper
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joechina wrote:
Are we now officially back from 67mm to 66mm in battery length?

There was never a promise of 67mm, as far as I’m aware. Battery size was only specified as “18650” until mid-2018, when I added “maximum 66mm” to the OP. The only prior mention of 67mm was this comment, which was not official or correct. I have no idea where that number came from. Anyway, old snapshots are available on archive.org if anyone would like to see how the first post looked in the past.

However, in proto4, it’s really more of a maximum of 65mm. But I’m hoping Lumintop can fix that because the reduction from 66mm to 65mm was only caused by a manufacturing error.

lroach
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I will take one.

LER

dropman
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Maybe it will sound strange but am I the only one who thinks that almost two years for flashlight development and putting into production is way too long? I really dont understand why it take so long and why there is no feedback from manufacturer and members who assist in development (and production?) process about schedule of production and actual date it will be ready for purchase?
Looking to the specs its probably best ever EDC light that will (hopefully) be available (also direct competitor to Emisar D4 and many other similar lights), so I assume for manufacturer and development team this need to be priority number one. Instead it looks like manufacturer is not interested (maybe initial price calculation is wrong or other reason?).
Again, looking to the specs, its clear that this light will be one of the best available (for that price) and manufacturer should know that as sooner it will be available for purchase, more lights will sell.
Sorry if this all sounds dumb. I dont know anything about production, just wanted to know why its soooo long.

ToyKeeper
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dropman wrote:
just wanted to know why its soooo long.

A few reasons:

  • Turnover. None of the original project members are still involved.
  • Communication issues. Remember when Ford Prefect wrote an entire book about Earth, and his editor shortened it to “mostly harmless”? That sort of thing happens a lot.
  • Getting stuff manufactured in China is complicated. Many surprising things can go wrong.
  • It’s being made by volunteers, not employees.

However, it’s still happening faster than many Kickstarter projects. My experience with those has generally been about 3 or 4 years between buy-in and actual product delivery.

dropman
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Ok. But what about feedback from manufacturer? As I understand, some production samples where made and sent to few volunteers for testing. I see three reviews, but why there are no information from manufacturer like, what is the status and when they plan to make first 2000 lights? Can someone, who knows better, guess or just ask manufacturer actual status?

mgracia85
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dropman wrote:
Ok. But what about feedback from manufacturer? As I understand, some production samples where made and sent to few volunteers for testing. I see three reviews, but why there are no information from manufacturer like, what is the status and when they plan to make first 2000 lights? Can someone, who knows better, guess or just ask manufacturer actual status?

The best person who can give you that answer already gave you her answer. What more do you want? You just have to be patient and remember this is being done by volunteers on THEIR OWN time, so we should be grateful and learn to wait. Wink

I love my wife’s toy poodle

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Joined: 07/01/2018 - 02:05
Posts: 85
Location: Dallas, Texas

Teacher,

From what I’ve been able to glean, even if the driver recess in prototype 3 had been correctly machined, only the very shortest of button-top cells would be likely to work. Is that your opinion as well?

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