FW3A, a TLF/BLF EDC flashlight - SST-20 available, coupon codes public

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Firelight2
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raccoon city wrote:

...Maybe I should put disclaimer in my signature that says I'm not a modder, and I do not solder.

There's something special about having an $8 flashlight that you modded with $80 in aftermarket parts.

It's never too late to start modding! tongue-outlaughingtongue-out

 

ToyKeeper
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I’m hoping it’ll fit button-top cells, at least. Earlier prototypes did.

I’m also hoping things will happen quickly. But I’m hearing that LH351D may be delayed longer than expected, because they were apparently not ordered back in December when I thought they were. And it sounds like there’s some sort of difficulty in getting them. So I’m kind of wondering if it would make more sense to use SST-20 instead.

I know it has come up before, which is why I mention it, but what do people think of the idea?

Here’s a very brief summary of the biggest differences:

  • LH351D has a wider, flatter, floodier beam. Probably more lumens.
  • SST-20 has a narrower, throwier beam. Illuminates farther away.

Both can still have hit-or-miss tints depending on the exact bin used.

To be clear, XP-L HI 3D is still a “yes”. If I understand correctly, XP-L HI should be able to go to production as soon as the driver fit issue is worked out. The question is only about the LH351D version.

teacher
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JasonWW wrote:
teacher wrote:
From my highly non-technical & less than scientific research Hat , my predictions for FW3A Battery Fitment are…..
  • Most all 18650 Flat Tops will work.

  • Most 18650 Button Tops will (most likely) not work. This will depend entirely on the height of the 'Button Top' installed on the cell... but it ain't looking good for "button tops".. . Wink
Why make assumptions when Toykeeper has already said the FW3A was designed to fit both flat top and button top?

I think 66mm is the “safe” number so as to assure fitment, but I bet it will fit slightly longer cells. Not 69mm-70mm protected cells, though.

I’m sure we’ll hear more about what fits and what doesn’t fit later on..

I’m not making any “assumptions” at all. You left out, in your quote; the part that qualified what I wrote. Facepalm

“These findings are based on the stated Maximum battery length of 66mm for the FW3A.”

Yet you say…. “I think 66mm is the “safe” number so as to assure fitment, but I bet it will fit slightly longer cells.”

Sooo….. which of us is speculating & making assumptions??

I’ll take your bet too, if we can agree on an ‘upper limit’ of length. Wink

It may very well take a bit longer battery/cell. But what I wrote was simply written based on the stated maximum length of 66mm for the FW3A.

Personally, I don’t care either way. But I thought someone might find the data useful. Maybe they will, maybe they won’t.

teacher wrote:
From my highly non-technical & less than scientific research Hat , my predictions for FW3A Battery Fitment are…..
  • Most all 18650 Flat Tops will work.

  • Most 18650 Button Tops will (most likely) not work. This will depend entirely on the height of the 'Button Top' installed on the cell... but it ain't looking good for "button tops".. . Wink

These findings are based on the stated Maximum battery length of 66mm for the FW3A. Thumbs Up

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

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oweban
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My vote is wait on LH351D, so people have the option of throw or flood.

Tom E
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Firelight2 wrote:

raccoon city wrote:

...Maybe I should put disclaimer in my signature that says I'm not a modder, and I do not solder.

There's something special about having an $8 flashlight that you modded with $80 in aftermarket parts.

It's never too late to start modding! tongue-outlaughingtongue-out 

Yea, my $11 ZY-T11 clone quad mod:

    - quad MCPCB from MtnE, quad 10621 optic (MtnE I think), 4 LH351D's from MtnE, alum S2+ spacer sanded down, 2 brass screws

    - CK OSHPark driver, Blue BeCu spring, SMD parts, wires

    - UCL lens

    - light pipe from DigiKey, switch from Digikey/Mouser

    - ohh, and can't forget one copper penny, ~1978

 

Just shipping alone? Yikes! Makes you wonder...

cabfrank
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I would, of course, want the XP-L version as soon as it can be done. Next, i would say do the SST-20, if it can be done sooner. Then, do the LH351D, when the good tint emitters are available. I think a lot of people would really like the SST-20, and probably plan to make that swap anyway. I would personally get one of all three, and then a second one of whichever I like best.

MascaratumB
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Firelight2 wrote:
It’s never too late to start modding spending lots of money in flashlights that may go from junk to jewels, or spending lots of money in pieces and tools when you could be buying new flashlights!

I fixed it for you Firelight Big Smile Innocent

EDIT: what Tom E said Big Smile

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JasonWW
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teacher wrote:

Personally, I don’t care either way, but I thought someone might find the data useful. Maybe they will, maybe they won’t.

It might be misleading.

I’d wait till later.

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ToyKeeper
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oweban wrote:
My vote is wait on LH351D, so people have the option of throw or flood.

True. Though in this case it’s more like “flood or … more flood”. And if that’s still not enough flood, there are two levels of even floodier frosted optics which can be used.

teacher
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JasonWW wrote:
teacher wrote:

Personally, I don’t care either way, but I thought someone might find the data useful. Maybe they will, maybe they won’t.
It might be misleading.
Not for anyone who reads fairly well.

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

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oweban
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ToyKeeper wrote:
oweban wrote:
My vote is wait on LH351D, so people have the option of throw or flood.

True. Though in this case it’s more like “flood or … more flood”. And if that’s still not enough flood, there are two levels of even floodier frosted optics which can be used.

Also very true! SST20 with frosted optics could fit the bill nicely, and is quite quick and easy to swap out.

(that said, it won’t affect me as I’ll be going HI; 4000K is too warm for me Sad )

netprince
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ToyKeeper wrote:
I’m hoping it’ll fit button-top cells, at least. Earlier prototypes did.

I’m also hoping things will happen quickly. But I’m hearing that LH351D may be delayed longer than expected, because they were apparently not ordered back in December when I thought they were. And it sounds like there’s some sort of difficulty in getting them. So I’m kind of wondering if it would make more sense to use SST-20 instead.

I know it has come up before, which is why I mention it, but what do people think of the idea?

Here’s a very brief summary of the biggest differences:

  • LH351D has a wider, flatter, floodier beam. Probably more lumens.
  • SST-20 has a narrower, throwier beam. Illuminates farther away.

Both can still have hit-or-miss tints depending on the exact bin used.

To be clear, XP-L HI 3D is still a “yes”. If I understand correctly, XP-L HI should be able to go to production as soon as the driver fit issue is worked out. The question is only about the LH351D version.

I’d buy an sst20 version, if its a good tint.

cabfrank
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As said above, there isn’t really going to a throw/flood option, they are all “floody”. I think the SST-20 would be a great option. I honestly might even prefer it to the LD, depending on how much lumen difference there will be.

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hoping to receive it by Christmas -

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saypat wrote:
hoping to receive it by Christmas -

2019 or 2020? Big Smile

KB1428 “Live Life WOT

teacher
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Ouch….. FacepalmBig Smile

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

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BlueSwordM
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Same thing here.

Doesn’t really matter if it’s using an SST-20 setup, or an LH351D setup.

In a light with such small TIR optics, more throw is always beneficial, so an SST-20 option would be great, especially since it has even better R9 in the CRI spectrum.

I do prefer using the LH351D in lights like the BLF Q8, but for the FW3A?

Full on SST-20 4000k 95CRI.

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KawiBoy1428 wrote:
saypat wrote:
hoping to receive it by Christmas -
2019 or 2020? Big Smile

Free Beer tomorrow !!

Im not a Pessimist …. just an Optimist with a lot of experience


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BurningPlayd0h
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ToyKeeper wrote:
I’m hoping it’ll fit button-top cells, at least. Earlier prototypes did.

I’m also hoping things will happen quickly. But I’m hearing that LH351D may be delayed longer than expected, because they were apparently not ordered back in December when I thought they were. And it sounds like there’s some sort of difficulty in getting them. So I’m kind of wondering if it would make more sense to use SST-20 instead.

I know it has come up before, which is why I mention it, but what do people think of the idea?

Here’s a very brief summary of the biggest differences:

  • LH351D has a wider, flatter, floodier beam. Probably more lumens.
  • SST-20 has a narrower, throwier beam. Illuminates farther away.

Both can still have hit-or-miss tints depending on the exact bin used.

To be clear, XP-L HI 3D is still a “yes”. If I understand correctly, XP-L HI should be able to go to production as soon as the driver fit issue is worked out. The question is only about the LH351D version.

After hearing your comments on LH351D’s beam profile in a TIR triple/quad, and now seeing plenty of beamshots of them… SST-20 all the way.

If people want more flood a wider TIR optic is easily available, or they can just use DC Fix/scotch tape like many of us do for lights already.

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Agreed.

It’s all a matter of personal taste. But I find that LH351D is just a bit too floody for me. I much prefer the extra punch of XPL HI or SST 20.

I expect when I get my FW3A I’ll probably swap out the emitters for XPL HI (probably two 5000K and one 4000K) and the optic to 10507.

SST 20 is nice, but I find it looks a bit too green-tinged. Also compared to XPL HI, SST 20 with its lower Vf it draws more current which causes the head to heat up faster resulting in the driver ramping down output faster.

ToyKeeper
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Firelight2 wrote:
XPL HI (probably two 5000K and one 4000K) and the optic to 10507.

That’ll produce a pretty strange beam pattern. XP-L HI + 10507 tends to have fairly visible artifacts, and you’d be getting artifacts in two different colors.

DavidEF
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ToyKeeper wrote:
Firelight2 wrote:
XPL HI (probably two 5000K and one 4000K) and the optic to 10507.

That’ll produce a pretty strange beam pattern. XP-L HI + 10507 tends to have fairly visible artifacts, and you’d be getting artifacts in two different colors.


That might be exactly what he’s going for. Look at his username. Maybe he’s going to run it on candle mode and watch the artifacts flicker all over the place. Party

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funkychateau
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BurningPlayd0h][quote=funkychateau][quote=teacher wrote:
funkychateau wrote:
Nothing to lose by doing that.

Its a balancing act between fitting shorter cells (how they were designed and sold by the original manufacturers) or longer button-top/protected cells. You always sacrifice some fit on one end of the spectrum for more on the other.

No need to consider protected cells, just unprotected button- and flat-tops. It seems that this model has limited its ability to accommodate a range of cells by using a short set of springs. Resistance shouldn’t be the reason – this light should draw substantially less current than the Emisar D4, which accommodates both flat- and button-top cells pretty well.

Tech25
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It seems like a lot of people on this thread have said they want the SST-20.

My preference would be the SST-20 as well as long as it’s high cri and as close to the BBL as possible. Especially if picking this led over the LH315D would speed things along.

Geuzzz
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I’ll take it with sst20’s.

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raccoon city wrote:
Maybe I should put disclaimer in my signature that says I’m not a modder, and I do not solder.

Had to laugh, I said something similar long ago: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?244730-I-m-no-Modder-...! (warning: off-site link)
That single mod really led to a big lifestyle change. Here I am nearly 10 years later waiting for yet another rear-mounted e-switch light that will inevitably get modded at some point.

Been a while since I logged in, saw 40 posts in this thread and thought “maybe?….”. Nope. That’s OK, I’m patient. I put an arbitrary annual flashlight limit on myself and the FW3A will be IT for the year. If it isn’t ready to ship by December I’m sure there will be some other light waiting to fill the 2019 quota.

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SST 20 for a bit more throw is fine and welcome for me.

mortuus
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hm i dont get it, suddenly there is a problem getting the LH351D emitters when they were confirmed long ago, so they will change to sst20 now then or ?

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Firelight2
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DavidEF wrote:
ToyKeeper wrote:
Firelight2 wrote:
XPL HI (probably two 5000K and one 4000K) and the optic to 10507.

That’ll produce a pretty strange beam pattern. XP-L HI + 10507 tends to have fairly visible artifacts, and you’d be getting artifacts in two different colors.


That might be exactly what he’s going for. Look at his username. Maybe he’s going to run it on candle mode and watch the artifacts flicker all over the place. Party
Actually, I modded lights with mixed emitters and the Carclo 10507 years ago. Before quads were common, the big thing everyone modded were triples and I converted numerous lights to them including the Sunwayman C20C, DQG Tiny III, and Convoy S2+.

When you mix emitter tints in these small triples the hotspot and most of the spill is a completely uniform mix with no artifacts that perfectly blends the emitters into a uniform new tint. You don’t even notice that different emitter tints were used unless you turn the light on in moonlight and look into the bezel, or shine it on a white wall from an inch away. Even from a foot away the beams blend almost perfectly. Not suprising since the hotspots are probably a foot wide and the emitters are maybe 1 cm separated.

The only artifacts the 10507 produces are a ring of flower petal like shapes at the edges outside the beam. These petals come from individual emitters so will be different colors and won’t blend. But the reality is they aren’t really noticeable except when looking at a white wall and spinning the light like a pinwheel in your hand. They also don’t look at all ugly.

JasonWW
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mortuus wrote:
hm i dont get it, suddenly there is a problem getting the LH351D emitters when they were confirmed long ago, so they will change to sst20 now then or ?

Toykeeper just said that she thought they put the order in a long time ago, but it turns out they didn’t. Now they are trying to order them and are having problems getting the exact tint, etc… So it seems Lumintop made a mistake by not ordering soon enough.

Now we are in a position where they can put their order in now and it will be a long time before they can get them or maybe they will just order the sst-20 and maybe get it sooner. Make sense?

Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights

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