FW3A, a TLF/BLF EDC flashlight - SST-20 available, coupon codes public

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Geuzzz
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ToyKeeper wrote:
Neal wrote:
After the holiday we will ask the supplier if they have 7A led available,of available then will ship

If 7A is not available, people would probably also like 5A and 2A. Smile

I ordered 7a to have +-3000k. If not available sst20 3000k will be fine also (at 6 bucks discount Smile ).

JasonWW
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The clip looks and feels good in the hand, but I do notice this smoke chrome finish is bad about collecting oil from your fingers.

The clip is stainless steel, right? I don’t think the raw finished clips showed fingerprints. This might be a good reason to go back to the raw finish.

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ToyKeeper wrote:
Neal wrote:
After the holiday we will ask the supplier if they have 7A led available,of available then will ship

If 7A is not available, people would probably also like 5A and 2A. Smile

Yes! I’d prefer either to 7A.

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TK, is there any combination of button presses that can make the light turn on at a medium level and then not respond to the switch anymore?

I let a newb check out the light and he did some crazy button clicking and it did this. I had to cut battery power to get it back to normal. It was odd.

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Johm
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JasonWW wrote:
TK, is there any combination of button presses that can make the light turn on at a medium level and then not respond to the switch anymore?

I let a newb check out the light and he did some crazy button clicking and it did this. I had to cut battery power to get it back to normal. It was odd.

Could be you have made a good start at discovering the ester egg.

First to the key, first to the egg.
(for those that have seen the movie Ready Player One)

mortuus
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i ordered 7a, is there a way to know if i got into it or not ? i thought there would be alot more then 330 since the list is so big ?

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JasonWW wrote:
TK, is there any combination of button presses that can make the light turn on at a medium level and then not respond to the switch anymore?

I let a newb check out the light and he did some crazy button clicking and it did this. I had to cut battery power to get it back to normal. It was odd.

That sounds like they managed to knock the button signal tube out of place or something. But usually if that happens, the light shuts itself off.

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the FW3A is such a beauty! Smile

 

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Nice photos!

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Yes, nice photos.

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M4D M4X wrote:
the FW3A is such a beauty! Smile
It sure is & those are great pictures too!! Thumbs Up

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yanya
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M4D M4X
great video and great photos Thumbs Up

DooMMasteR
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copper would require an additional insulator because it cannot be anodized to be an Isolator as Aluminium.

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the inner tube can still be used on other materials I think? 

 

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DooMMasteR
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that would be an option, jupp
By the way: Is there a “shipping proges page?” I am #30xx and would like to know, when I could “roughly” expect shipping…

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DooMMasteR wrote:
that would be an option, jupp By the way: Is there a “shipping proges page?” I am #30xx and would like to know, when I could “roughly” expect shipping…

pls PM me the order number

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Why not run a wire inside the tube rather than a inner tube? Just wondering.

JasonWW
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pennzy wrote:
Why not run a wire inside the tube rather than a inner tube? Just wondering.

How would you connect the wire ends to the driver and switch when they all rotate independently? Seems pretty tricky.

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pennzy
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JasonWW wrote:
pennzy wrote:
Why not run a wire inside the tube rather than a inner tube? Just wondering.

How would you connect the wire ends to the driver and switch when they all rotate independently? Seems pretty tricky.

There’s my answer looking me in the face. I guess I didn’t think it through . Sad
hodor
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Neal wrote:
Firelight2 wrote:
Now that I have my aluminum FW3As, I find myself wanting one in polished titanium Love

OK
will talk about this, also copper

Bead blasted titanium gets my vote. Other aluminium colours could also be tempting.

…Or silver / clear version?… runs and hides… Only kidding, I don’t like these as they can’t be hard locked out.

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JasonWW wrote:
pennzy wrote:
Why not run a wire inside the tube rather than a inner tube? Just wondering.

How would you connect the wire ends to the driver and switch when they all rotate independently? Seems pretty tricky.

But not impossible.
HDS is using a wire with a rotating head and a fixed MCPCB for the button, Novatac is using a spring with a rotating head and rotating button.
The end of the tube on the driver side of the HDS is anodized, the trace on the MCPCB is for the end of the wire.

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Tally-ho wrote:

But not impossible.
HDS is using a wire with a rotating head and a fixed MCPCB for the button, Novatac is using a spring with a rotating head and rotating button.
The end of the tube on the driver side of the HDS is anodized, the trace on the MCPCB is for the end of the wire.


Interesting design, thanks for sharing Tally-ho. Thumbs Up

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

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The spring of the novatac is working the same as the inner tube of the FW3A, but with time if the spring wears off, it won’t be a problem due to its adaptable length.

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KawiBoy1428 wrote:

It might take a bit more than snap ring pliers, I had to use specially hand ground down needle nose pliers to get both of my FW3A driver retainer rings loose....the ring is thin and was very tight. The driver is a tight press fit also, it would not pull out by the spring, had to smack it on my wood bench to pop it out, snapped back in nicely with out popping back out, nice enough to run it with out the retainer ring with out issue. so far..
I think that is the thinnest retaining ring I have ever seen. When I first went to check mine for tightness I didn’t even see it & thought… “oh crap, it’s glued after all”. Facepalm

But after closer inspection, there it was. Both of mine were tight btw. Thumbs Up

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

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ToyKeeper wrote:

But I’ve been meaning to get some proper snap-ring pliers instead of using machinist calipers.
Innovation & adaptability…. I love it!!
This would make a good ‘ToyKeeper video’ btw. Thumbs Up . Wink

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

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I took some measurements of my 3D version FW3A. I used my Texas_Ace Lumen Tube with a Maukka calibration light. I used a button top 30Q.

Turbo at Turn on saw 3300 lm which went to 2800 lm at 12 seconds then it stepped down. More than I was expecting! Party

At the 7135 × 1 level I got 132 lm

At the 7135 × 7 + 1 level (top of ramp) I got 1000 lm briefly, but I would say 950-970 lm is about normal and it dropped slowly. At about 30 seconds it was at 800 lm.

Parasitic drain measured an excellent 23 microamps with no sleep delay.

I tried to measure the current draw but I couldn’t get the switch activated with my clamp style and meter. I tried touching an extra wire to the middle tube, but got no response. Any recommendations on how I can measure this?

EDIT: The internal temperature was reading 36°C when it should have been 24°C. I reset it and Turbo lasted 15 seconds before stepdown.

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thanks for the data, this is a very interesting light indeed. Is the stepdown after 12 seconds time based or temperature based? 12s seems very quick to heat up? Is it really that hot after a few seconds?

Thanks.

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M3CSL wrote:
thanks for the data, this is a very interesting light indeed. Is the stepdown after 12 seconds time based or temperature based? 12s seems very quick to heat up? Is it really that hot after a few seconds?

Thanks.


There is no timed stepdown in Anduril (I’m pretty sure). It’s all temperature related and it gets hot quick! Like Toykeeper has been saying, Turbo is really just a short “burst” mode. It does not last long at all.

Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights

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JasonWW wrote:
I took some measurements of my 3D version FW3A. I used my Texas_Ace Lumen Tube with a Maukka calibration light. I used a button top 30Q.

Turbo at Turn on saw 3300 lm which went to 2800 lm at 12 seconds then it stepped down. More than I was expecting! Party

At the 7135 × 1 level I got 132 lm

At the 7135 × 7 level (top of ramp) I got 1000 lm breifly, but I would say 950-970 lm is about normal and it dropped slowly. At about 30 seconds it was at 800 lm.

Parasitic drain measured an excellent 23 microamps with no sleep delay.

I tried to measure the current draw but I couldn’t get the switch activated with my clamp style and meter. I tried touching an extra wire to the middle tube, but got no response. Any recommendations on how I can measure this?

I figured I’d mention my specs since I haven’t heard many other people talk about it in a while.


Damn near exactly what I measured on my T/A Maukka light tube…3360 with 30Q flat top and a VTC5a…which is close to the Max for a V2 XP-L HI thru optics and lens, the most I have ever seen was around 1250lms. in reflector lights. I like the 3D (nothing warmer though…)

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M3CSL wrote:
thanks for the data, this is a very interesting light indeed. Is the stepdown after 12 seconds time based or temperature based? 12s seems very quick to heat up? Is it really that hot after a few seconds?

Thanks.

The stepdown is temperature based and can be configured for a higher or lower temp range.

Yes, triple emitter FET driven lights this small will get hot FAST. The FW3A has one less emitter than the D4 (so lower wattage) but probably less thermal mass, certainly less in the head of the light.

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