FW3A, a TLF/BLF EDC flashlight - SST-20 available, coupon codes public

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justanotherguy
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I ordered two on the same day,,,separate orders. One came a couple days ago, the other us not tracking well…

anyone in NE ILLinois into get togethers?

candor
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I received my 3D and 7A a few days ago. My evening hours are limited these days so I haven’t really had the chance to fully suss them out. Here are a few random observations.
1–I couldn’t push one of the boxes out of its sleeve. It seemed like the sleeve was glued to the inner box so I had to peel it off. So what.
2–The switch on one is much stiffer and louder than the other. I prefer the softer one. I haven’t removed either’s tail cap yet.
3–The clip, while not deep carry, is pretty friggin sweet. It slides over my pocket with next to no effort. And I don’t even mind the extra width of the round bit.
4–I do have to be mindful not to press the switch while clipping the light in my pocket.
5–I thought I had a good idea of what size it would be but it still feels smaller than I expected.
6–I didn’t realize how accustomed to side switches I was. I think I’ve settled on a modified cigar grip. Thumb in back, index and middle over, ring and pinky under.
7–While I like them both, I can’t help wishing the 3D was a 5D and the 7A was also a 5D.
Big ups to the whole crew! It’s been fun watching this materialize and is now even more fun.

JasonWW
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saypat wrote:
received mine today. The boxes, both them, were destroyed. From what I read earlier I knew the light would be encased in foam so I didn’t worry. It was fine, no damage….but it didn’t work. After some twisting it started working. The switch is FANTASTIC! The color is gray, the switch is black. I don’t care. Insanely HOT very quickly on turbo. I’m in Calif, any others around here know what to set the temp thingy at? And does that help it to not get so hot? This is a terrific light, BUT, I don’t feel like it’s going to keep working because of all I read? I can’t figure out that retaining ring on the driver? Is there even one there??? And does it turn? I was looking thru a magnifying glass and couldn’t really see a ring like on other lights. Were the boxes marked? No marking on mine that indicated it was a 3D. Tint is fine but I prefer warmer.

Keeping an eye out for the next available emitter, and pricing. Be a fool not to get another. I want bunnies!


You have a black switch? That is odd. Post a picture if you can. (Maybe you mean black clip?)

The default temp is set to 45°C I believe, or was is 55°? I can’t remember. I would not try changing the temp step down. I would first try calibrating the ambient temperature since that is the one that is not calibrated. M4D M4X did a video on it.
https://youtu.be/RW1VzLoNsfo
.

Texas Ace Lumen Tube calibrated with Maukka lights

Click this to go to signature links.

saypat
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my error Jason, yes, corrected to black clip. I’ll see if I can calibrate the temperature, thanks!

teacher
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saypat wrote:
I can’t figure out that retaining ring on the driver? Is there even one there??? And does it turn? I was looking thru a magnifying glass and couldn’t really see a ring like on other lights.
Below is a very clear picture by TomE of the ‘driver retaining ring’. It is very, very thin saypat & somewhat hard to see… but it should be there. HERE is some more info. .
Tom E wrote:
Below you can see the sometime loose driver retaining ring – it’s quite thin and frail. If you need to tighten it up, be careful with it. The ring is just outside the PCB ring. You can see two notches to be able to use a tool, needlenose or something:

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contactcr
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The retaining ring doesn’t need to be very tight. Turn it clock wise to tighten. I really only tightened mine with one of the notches (at that was because I took everything apart to mod it). I don’t think my usual pliers and stuff will grab both ends of the ring at once without slipping.

Silent_Star
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I see that people have already started getting 7A.
Sadly, my not even sent.
Paid Apr 28, 2019

Sad

 Genesis 1:3 "And God said, "Let there be light,"  and there was light."

xevious
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contactcr wrote:
The retaining ring doesn’t need to be very tight. Turn it clock wise to tighten. I really only tightened mine with one of the notches (at that was because I took everything apart to mod it). I don’t think my usual pliers and stuff will grab both ends of the ring at once without slipping.

That’s what I did too. Small screwdriver in one notch, spun around until finger tight.
ryukin2000
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JasonWW wrote:
……..I would first try calibrating the ambient temperature since that is the one that is not calibrated. M4D M4X did a video on it. https://youtu.be/RW1VzLoNsfo .

Good tip. My ambient default temp was set to 39. Recalibrated now.

xevious
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Just for the sake of clarity, for anyone still not seeing it… retaining ring notches highlighted:

contactcr
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I hope they come out with some new colors. As much as I like this light the only thing keeping me from buying multiple is no $30 option and the weird gray on fingerprint black on silver color combo. I may just have to try to bake the anno if a $30 one comes out.

cabfrank
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candor wrote:
7–While I like them both, I can’t help wishing the 3D was a 5D and the 7A was also a 5D. Big ups to the whole crew! It’s been fun watching this materialize and is now even more fun.

Neal, will there be a 5D, or any other Cree tints besides the three currently available?

Glenn7
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Ordered mine on 27th April order #3015 – haven’t heard a thing back (tracking number etc) Hmmm, anybody else in the same boat? did send an email but have heard nothing back. Thought they were starting to send out on the 8th?

Mr.Scott
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My FW3A arrived today!

First interesting thing – the box had a return address of Cranbury, NJ and appears to be shipped by USPS (US Postal Service). I see no typical Chinese markings on the outer box.

I googled the address and found a company who’s web site states:

Quote:
We are specialized in overseas warehousing and logsitcis services through the internet by using advanced marketing strategy and new technology solutions. Our order fulfillment and delivery service solutions provided special value and convenience to our vast online customers and wholesalers.

So maybe Lumintop is shipping cases of lights to NJ and this company handling shipping within the US.

ToyKeeper
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candor wrote:
While I like them both, I can’t help wishing the 3D was a 5D and the 7A was also a 5D.

I know, right?

Well, maybe not 5D, but perhaps 5A. Or 4D.

The proto4 sample I got appears to be a 5A, and it’s really nice. It’d probably be even better as a 4D though. It’s just a touch warm for my taste. The 3D production model seems colder than I was hoping though, and the tint isn’t as good as some other 3D lights I have.

I asked Neal a couple times to do 7A, 5A, 3D, and 2A/1D. I provided data on the relative quantities to make too, to match the poll data. Now there’s 7A, 3D, and 1A… but he didn’t want to do a “5” tint because it was too similar to the SST-20 model. And that’s fair. But it sure would be nice if other people could get one like the 5A proto4 unit I have.

So now my favorites are 219B sw45k and XP-L HI 5A… and it’s hard to decide between the two. Maybe someday I can get some 4D emitters to use as a tie-breaker. Smile

OldSchoolAirCool
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I placed my order on the 28th (3625, 2× 3D + 1× 7A) and haven’t heard anything beyond the order confirmation e-mail either. Just figured that an update would come when it comes (sooner rather than later being preferable, of course).

Edindevon
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Nev wrote:
Yodel tracking is saying mine will be here on Friday ,yay on my birfday.

Mine’s saying the same thing. It’s interesting to see just how synced several deliveries from the same place at about the same time to the UK can be.

Mine’s coming to Devon.

Neal
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cabfrank wrote:
candor wrote:
7–While I like them both, I can’t help wishing the 3D was a 5D and the 7A was also a 5D. Big ups to the whole crew! It’s been fun watching this materialize and is now even more fun.

Neal, will there be a 5D, or any other Cree tints besides the three currently available?

they don’t have plan for this tint now
Neal
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sorry
the shipping delayed because of the baby birth and the led out of stock

Now my baby is already back home. and the lights are arrived today.

I will ship all the orders in group buy this week.

Regards
Neal

Mr.Scott
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I got my FW3A today and have been screwing around with it for about 2 hours. Literally screwing around; screwing the head, screwing the tail, screwing the head, screwing the tail, etc.


It worked for a short while (2-3 minutes) with me turning it on/ramp/off/on/off/on/ramp, and so on. But then it stopped working. Time to trouble shoot.

  • Check battery - 4.2 v, good.
  • Loosen head, loosen tail, tighten tail (really good), tighten head. - no luck.
  • Check and tighten driver retaining ring. done - no luck.
    • While I had the head off I noticed one of the chips had a wart. That is odd. Using tweezers I removed it. It looks like a nubbin from the tail switch. Time to check the tail.
  • With the head pointing to the ceiling and the tail on the table, remove the body tube from the tail. Remove the switch. - the nubbin is there. Looks like I have an extra nubbin.
    • Since I have the tail off I decide to remove the clip. I generally don't keep clips on my lights. Hmmm, between the clip and the body tube is a white o-ring. Oh, that is suppose to be around the inner tube. Edit: it should be there. see posts below.
  • Remove the inner tube there is the white o-ring. Looks like I have an extra o-ring too.

 

 

The problem is I have now exhausted my ideas for troubleshooting and my light still doesn't work.

Additional info:

  • When I screw the head on I get the momentarily blink others have described.
  • Typically the light doesn't work after tightening the head. I click the switch but it doesn't turn on
  • Maybe 10% of the time the light comes on when I tighten the head and ramps all the way to high. I click the switch but it doesn't shut off. I have to unscrew the head to get it to turn off.
  • When I press the switch I can hear and feel a good "click".


Any suggestions what I should try next.

thisnameisvalid
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Mr.Scott wrote:

I got my FW3A today and have been screwing around with it for about 2 hours. Literally screwing around; screwing the head, screwing the tail, screwing the head, screwing the tail, etc.



It worked for a short while (2-3 minutes) with me turning it on/ramp/off/on/off/on/ramp, and so on. But then it stopped working. Time to trouble shoot.



  • Check battery – 4.2 v, good.

  • Loosen head, loosen tail, tighten tail (really good), tighten head. – no luck.

  • Check and tighten driver retaining ring. done – no luck.

    • While I had the head off I noticed one of the chips had a wart. That is odd. Using tweezers I removed it. It looks like a nubbin from the tail switch. Time to check the tail.



  • With the head pointing to the ceiling and the tail on the table, remove the body tube from the tail. Remove the switch. – the nubbin is there. Looks like I have an extra nubbin.

    • Since I have the tail off I decide to remove the clip. I generally don’t keep clips on my lights. Hmmm, between the clip and the body tube is a white o-ring. Oh, that is suppose to be around the inner tube.



  • Remove the inner tube there is the white o-ring. Looks like I have an extra o-ring too.



 



 


The problem is I have now exhausted my ideas for troubleshooting and my light still doesn’t work.

Additional info:



  • When I screw the head on I get the momentarily blink others have described.

  • Typically the light doesn’t work after tightening the head. I click the switch but it doesn’t turn on

  • Maybe 10% of the time the light comes on when I tighten the head and ramps all the way to high. I click the switch but it doesn’t shut off. I have to unscrew the head to get it to turn off.

  • When I press the switch I can hear and feel a good “click”.



Any suggestions what I should try next.

It sounds like the inner e switch tube isn’t making contact. You might want to try tightening the driver retaining ring so the body tube tightens lower and makes the switch tube contact. That white o ring is meant to be above the clip by the way; it stops the clip rotating.

djozz
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Because it sometimes automatically ramp, another possibility is that the switch always makes contact, not just when you click it. You can check that by trying to use the light as a twisty: see if you can get the UI working by tightening/loosing the head instead of clicking the switch. If it does that, the switch is always “on”. (the switch plate may be soldered crooked, bridging the outer and inner ring on the tail PCB)

Mr.Scott
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xevious wrote:
Just for the sake of clarity, for anyone still not seeing it… retaining ring notches highlighted: !https://i.postimg.cc/yW4QyFLV/FW3-A-retaining-ring.jpg!

I find the notches easier to see from an angle rather than looking straight down at the driver. (Hope it shows up in this picture. There is some glare.)

ToyKeeper
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Yeah, the white O-ring by the clip is there to keep the clip from spinning freely. It’s not for the inner tube.

Something else which might help is to take out the driver retaining ring entirely, wiggle the driver around to make sure it goes into the slot it’s meant to be in, and then tighten the ring again. One edge of the driver is flat, so it can only go in one direction. Be careful not to twist the wires off though. Without de-soldering the wires, the driver can only move a little bit.

Mr.Scott
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ToyKeeper wrote:
Yeah, the white O-ring by the clip is there to keep the clip from spinning freely. It’s not for the inner tube.

Something else which might help is to take out the driver retaining ring entirely, wiggle the driver around to make sure it goes into the slot it’s meant to be in, and then tighten the ring again. One edge of the driver is flat, so it can only go in one direction. Be careful not to twist the wires off though. Without de-soldering the wires, the driver can only move a little bit.

Good idea. I previously tightened the driver retaining ring, but I didn’t think to check that the flat spot on the driver was aligned with the tube.

Re: white o-ring. My first thought was that it was to keep the clip tight. But then I noted in CRX’s review that the o-ring was around the inner tube.

It seems I have a white o-ring around my inner tube too and between the clip and the body.

ToyKeeper
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Mr.Scott wrote:
It seems I have a white o-ring around my inner tube too and between the clip and the body.

Yes, there are two white O-rings… one to separate the inner tube from the outer tube, and one to provide friction for the clip.

Mr.Scott
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I think it is working. At least it is better.

I failed to follow the rules of debugging and only change one thing at a time. I did three things….

  • Per TK’s suggestion, I removed the driver retaining ring. The driver appeared to be seated correctly with the notch. I tired to remove the driver but couldn’t. I didn’t want to risk deforming the spring by pulling too hard. I used a little stick (the ones I steal from my wife. Orange stick?) to press down on the driver and make sure it was down all the way around.
  • I also disassembled the tail switch and reassembled.
  • I also cleaned all of the threads, head and tail.

I’m going to let it rest over night and check it again tomorrow when I have a fresh brain.

Thank you thisnameisvalid, djozz, and Toy Keeper!

ToyKeeper
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Mr.Scott wrote:
I removed the driver retaining ring.

You probably already did it, but don’t forget to put the ring back in.

Yes, I’m one of those people who notices when someone in a movie fails to close a door behind them… and then it bothers me for the next few minutes and distracts me from the story. Silly

Mr.Scott
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Tom E
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ToyKeeper wrote:
candor wrote:
While I like them both, I can't help wishing the 3D was a 5D and the 7A was also a 5D.
I know, right? Well, maybe not 5D, but perhaps 5A. Or 4D. The proto4 sample I got appears to be a 5A, and it's really nice. It'd probably be even better as a 4D though. It's just a touch warm for my taste. The 3D production model seems colder than I was hoping though, and the tint isn't as good as some other 3D lights I have. I asked Neal a couple times to do 7A, 5A, 3D, and 2A/1D. I provided data on the relative quantities to make too, to match the poll data. Now there's 7A, 3D, and 1A... but he didn't want to do a "5" tint because it was too similar to the SST-20 model. And that's fair. But it sure would be nice if other people could get one like the 5A proto4 unit I have. So now my favorites are 219B sw45k and XP-L HI 5A... and it's hard to decide between the two. Maybe someday I can get some 4D emitters to use as a tie-breaker. :)

Just fyi, the triple 5D Hank offers at $15 is a pretty good deal: https://intl-outdoor.com/noctigon-3xp-parallelonly, considering buying the 3 5D's bare is $18. But unfortunately he doesn't have 5A's.

Whoa da -- he's got V4 3C's listed now, wow!

Hank has the highest binned XPL HI ever, that's legit. Look at what KD offers - an XPL HD V4 3C, or XPL HI V3 3C, though I don't trust KD's claim on bins -- they've bene proven wrong on tints and bins before.

Also Hank has a pic of the official CREE V4 3C label here: https://intl-outdoor.com/cree-xpl-high-intensity-v4-3c-bare-led-p-900.html

 

 

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