FW3A, a TLF/BLF EDC flashlight - SST-20 available, coupon codes public

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ToyKeeper
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fneuf wrote:
I’ll go with redUCED OUTPUT.

Do I get a bonus for my guess ? innocent tongue-out

fneuf wrote:
Well, back to topic. I saw FW3A orderable with SST 95CRI and even quad XP-L HI versions on Vn54 page. Are they “legit”?

Yes, the Vinh flavors of this light are legit. Making premium modified versions of lights is his job, and he takes it quite seriously. He stands behind his work and makes sure everything is in order. Plus, he’s also very friendly if you have any questions or anything like that.

loki993
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Ok so I got my light 2 weeks ago and tried it with a button top 30q. didnt turn on. So I thought it needed a flat top, so I ordered some VTC6s and flat top 30Qs and the light still wont turn on. Is there some sort of protection mode it could have tripped that I need to reset or do I have a defective light?

justanotherguy
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loki993 wrote:
Ok so I got my light 2 weeks ago and tried it with a button top 30q. didnt turn on. So I thought it needed a flat top, so I ordered some VTC6s and flat top 30Qs and the light still wont turn on. Is there some sort of protection mode it could have tripped that I need to reset or do I have a defective light?

FW3A Troubleshooting / FAQ

anyone in NE ILLinois into get togethers?

Boaz
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  I'm going to reiterate the point about the hole in the clip as being an ugly /retarded addition for absolutely no reason .

And then suggest that they sell the parts that people are asking for and stop being idiots .

 it's more sales folks that's why you make stuff "to make money $$" so sell extra clips . extra tailcaps ,bunny tailcaps , extra drivers and clickies . maybe even optic or emitters on an MCPCB. why wouldn't you ??? I never understood why people have to beg for this stuff or why when they finally sell them they charge too much . Make these small additions to a sale and the result will be much greater profit ..oh yeah fix the stupid clip

       καὶ τὸ φῶς ἐν τῇ σκοτίᾳ φαίνει καὶ ἡ σκοτία αὐτὸ οὐ κατέλαβεν

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justanotherguy
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Boaz wrote:

 


  I’m going to reiterate the point about the hole in the clip as being an ugly /retarded addition for absolutely no reason .


And then suggest that they sell the parts that people are asking for and stop being idiots .


 it’s more sales folks that’s why you make stuff “to make money $$” so sell extra clips . extra tailcaps ,bunny tailcaps , extra drivers and clickies . maybe even optic or emitters on an MCPCB. why wouldn’t you ??? I never understood why people have to beg for this stuff or why when they finally sell them they charge too much . Make these small additions to a sale and the result will be much greater profit ..oh yeah fix the stupid clip

maybe it’s as simple as they make 1000 of each.. Can you predict just how many extra clips you’d need or bunny buttons? inventorying all that etc etc?

anyone in NE ILLinois into get togethers?

MtnDon
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Manufacturing and deciding on what spares or extras to make can be complicated. Leftover parts or accessories cut into the profits and those can be slim enough. They are in the business of selling ready to use lights.

And no need to use the ‘retarded’ word when stating your opinion, thanks. I never gave the slot or hole a second thought.

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BlueSwordM
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It’s called bulk purchasing power. It’s always better to buy more of something if you can justify it, sell it, or use it.

If you can buy 2000 pcs of something vs 1000 pcs of something, it may lower the cost as much by a factor of 2 (50% or 1/2).

That’s my experience with ordering custom springs anyway.

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547

loki993
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justanotherguy wrote:
loki993 wrote:
Ok so I got my light 2 weeks ago and tried it with a button top 30q. didnt turn on. So I thought it needed a flat top, so I ordered some VTC6s and flat top 30Qs and the light still wont turn on. Is there some sort of protection mode it could have tripped that I need to reset or do I have a defective light?
FW3A Troubleshooting / FAQ

Thanks, I was going in through the tailcap because apparently Im a du-mas and cant read instructions, inserted the battery from the front and everything works.

Mr.Scott
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sb56637 wrote:
Hi, I am indeed monitoring this thread. Please limit this topic to polite discussions about the FW3A, and please strictly avoid anything and everything political and/or controversial.

So is WW, NW or CW better?

Evil
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Which one is better?

5000k 95CRI SST-20.

So NW obviously for most uses, and warm white for outdoor lights and lamp posts.

If only there was a 5000k 95CRI SST-20 though…

That would make things so much easier. better.

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547

teacher
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Mr.Scott wrote:
sb56637 wrote:
Hi, I am indeed monitoring this thread. Please limit this topic to polite discussions about the FW3A, and please strictly avoid anything and everything political and/or controversial.

So is WW, NW or CW better?

Evil

Good one Mr. Scott!! Thumbs Up
I predict that is one “controversy” that will never be solved….. Innocent

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

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teacher
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loki993 wrote:
Ok so I got my light 2 weeks ago and tried it with a button top 30q. didnt turn on. So I thought it needed a flat top, so I ordered some VTC6s and flat top 30Qs and the light still wont turn on. Is there some sort of protection mode it could have tripped that I need to reset or do I have a defective light?
Hi…. Go HERE . Read it, do what is says, and hopefully that will fix you up. Thumbs Up

Make sure the threads are clean too

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

       Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$  

         Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart  

      Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help???            TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal 

 

                                             

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what does one use to clean the threads? Alcohol? How about Hydrogen Peroxide? Or WD 40? Any of these? Then Super Lube Synthetic Grease afterwards? Thanks!

BlueSwordM
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A simple cleaning rag.

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547

teacher
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Yeah… like BSM said, a rag.

Put the rag in your open hand, grasp the threads, and give it a twist. Clean threads.

Inside threads… use rag over finger tip.

Super Lube is great.

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

       Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$  

         Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart  

      Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help???            TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal 

 

                                             

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FW3A Team wrote:
Hello again. General status update: (is also in the OP)

Current status (2019-05-19): Neal reports that all orders have shipped, except for a couple orders with address problems. He’s contacting people individually about that. There is no news about SST-20 yet, but Neal will make sure people know about it when it’s ready.


- TK

Interesting, mine said that mine was “on the way” like a 5 days ago but the tracking number draws a blank on every site that I try it on…
Anyone else experiencing this?

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Still no sign of the SST-20 version? It is almost a month now.

New LuckySun D80 looking good so far http://budgetlightforum.com/node/66255

turpulator
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Could someone please link me to a colour comparison between the 3 emitters.
Cheers

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turpulator wrote:
Could someone please link me to a colour comparison between the 3 emitters.
Cheers
1A – 3D – 7A(iirc)

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

       Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$  

         Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart  

      Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help???            TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal 

 

                                             

bassoverflow
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TheOnlyDocc wrote:
Still no sign of the SST-20 version? It is almost a month now.

I already got my NW, but I too am waiting for the SST-20…
oto
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ToyKeeper wrote:
Tejasandre wrote:
I noticed there’s a slight delay after the switch is depressed until the light turns off. turning on the light does not have the same delay.
saypat wrote:
… indeed there is, very observant. I’d like a quicker off.

As JasonWW said, there are tradeoffs. It can respond at button press, button release, or after a timeout. Each one has benefits and drawbacks.

  • Press-off: Nobody really uses this; it’s basically incompatible with ramping.
  • Release-off: Turns off faster, but also causes the light to go dark for a moment when doing multi-click actions: a double click for turbo, click-release-hold to ramp down, triple click to change ramp styles, or quad click to access config mode.
  • Timeout-off: Turns off a bit slower, but doesn’t have any interruptions during actions which require more than one click.

People have some disagreements about the same thing while turning the light on, too. Press-on, release-on, and timeout-on are all used in different lights, for different reasons.

I’ve been meaning to add a compile-time option to choose which style to use, but still haven’t yet.

Please add this compile-time option. I prefer undelayed release-off. Thank you.

justanotherguy
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Is there a factory reset? When I got the light, it ramped to point and stopped..double tap to turbo..
Now it ramps to a blink, and continues on to turbo… It’s been out of my hands for the weekend

anyone in NE ILLinois into get togethers?

emarkd
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justanotherguy wrote:
Is there a factory reset? When I got the light, it ramped to point and stopped..double tap to turbo.. Now it ramps to a blink, and continues on to turbo… It’s been out of my hands for the weekend

There should be a “blink” in the middle of the ramp. That’s the light swapping from the single channel to the multi. It stops at the top of the regulated channels and double-click engages the FET. Try it — ramp until it stops, then double-click and see if it doesn’t get brighter. I’d bet its working properly you just didn’t notice the “blip” in the ramp earlier.

justanotherguy
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Nope…. When I first got it,it ramped to a point and stopped.no blink.double for turbo.

Now I tried it like you said, and after it ramped through the blink, and hit a ceiling, double click did nothing.
Fixed the steps/ramp

anyone in NE ILLinois into get togethers?

emarkd
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justanotherguy wrote:
Nope…. When I first got it,it ramped to a point and stopped.no blink.double for turbo.

Now I tried it like you said, and after it ramped through the blink, and hit a ceiling, double click did nothing.
Fixed the steps/ramp

Cell fully charged? Maybe it can’t supply the amperage needed for turbo?

I keep asking because the behavior you describe isn’t even programmable. Its not something you can reset (as far as I know). You’re describing a full-on malfunction. Which is possible, but not easily fixable if its happened.

justanotherguy
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Charger says 77%

anyone in NE ILLinois into get togethers?

illuminos
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ToyKeeper wrote:
illuminos wrote:
Just got the light yesterday but am running into an issue. The light switches to moon/low mode after a few seconds of coming on whether it is just on or while I’m ramping. It doesn’t appear to respond consistently to multiple clicks either.

That sounds like it’s in muggle mode with a bad temperature calibration. To fix it, exit muggle mode (6 clicks) and then calibrate the sensor as described in the FAQ threads.

http://budgetlightforum.com/node/66960

Or perhaps it just has a low battery and the low-voltage protection activated. I can’t really say which it is, from this description.

That is exactly what it was. I guess first thing to do besides checking the retaining ring is to reset the temp calibration on these lights.

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emarkd wrote:
justanotherguy wrote:
Nope…. When I first got it,it ramped to a point and stopped.no blink.double for turbo.

Now I tried it like you said, and after it ramped through the blink, and hit a ceiling, double click did nothing.
Fixed the steps/ramp

Cell fully charged? Maybe it can’t supply the amperage needed for turbo?

I keep asking because the behavior you describe isn’t even programmable. Its not something you can reset (as far as I know). You’re describing a full-on malfunction. Which is possible, but not easily fixable if its happened.

When unscrewing the tube, and screwing it back on, the light flickers to confirm battery contact. Single click will turn the light on to max single 7135. That’s why he didn’t notice the blink when ramping up. He ramped from blink point. The Emisar D4 does the same.

Acebeam L16, BLF Q8, BLF A6, BLF FW3A, Convoy L2, Convoy L6, Convoy C8+ , Convoy S3, Convoy M21A, Emisar D4, Jaxman E2L, Olight S1R Baton II special edition series, S2R Baton II, Nitecore HC65.

justanotherguy
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KevinZA1988 wrote:
emarkd wrote:
justanotherguy wrote:
Nope…. When I first got it,it ramped to a point and stopped.no blink.double for turbo.

Now I tried it like you said, and after it ramped through the blink, and hit a ceiling, double click did nothing.
Fixed the steps/ramp

Cell fully charged? Maybe it can’t supply the amperage needed for turbo?

I keep asking because the behavior you describe isn’t even programmable. Its not something you can reset (as far as I know). You’re describing a full-on malfunction. Which is possible, but not easily fixable if its happened.

When unscrewing the tube, and screwing it back on, the light flickers to confirm battery contact. Single click will turn the light on to max single 7135. That’s why he didn’t notice the blink when ramping up. He ramped from blink point. The Emisar D4 does the same.

These multi quotes are confusing….

When I got the light, and started using I ramped up and down a lot. It stopped at a point I would have thought was high, then double tap to turbo…I can only say after loaning it out for the weekend, it’s behaviour has changed. I think

anyone in NE ILLinois into get togethers?

MtnDon
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Q? When you first got it it worked, seemingly correctly? Now after loaning out it does not.

Sounds little like someone inadvertently got it into muggle mode. Have you tried clicking it back to normal ramp mode? I’m not home and am not sure of the number of clicks but it is in the user guide

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