FW3A, a TLF/BLF EDC flashlight - SST-20 available, coupon codes public

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Qins
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I ordered on may 5 and currently the status is unfulfilled !!!

nobody
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shirnask wrote:
You said before -

Neal wrote:
gottawearshades wrote:
This is an exciting time.

I guess nobody can say when the SST-20 will be available?

we will try to find the best SST20 for the FW3A,
supplier said next month will have

But now you say –

Neal wrote:
because we still not found the SST20 and LH351D led and a few people asked for the nichia version so I add it to the list, lumintop will assembly some next week.

Which version is true?

Sometimes suppliers let you down. Everybody has a supplier. Somethings are out of your control.

M3CSL
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If only the planned LEDs are not available, but everything else is there… any chance to offer a small batch of hosts-only flashlights (only body/tube, switch, bezel and driver) without LEDs and lens?

Sorry if this question is not a great idea. I am only asking because I am amazed by the mod thread and what users have done so far; I just believe that this is a very inspirational and capable community!

Convoy S2+ 219b triple, Astrolux FT02, Maglite 3D, Solarforce L2t

shirnask
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nobody wrote: Sometimes suppliers let you down. Everybody has a supplier. Somethings are out of your control.

If that is true it would have been better to hear those words from Neal.

Neal
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Qins wrote:
I ordered on may 5 and currently the status is unfulfilled !!!

pls PM me your order number

Lagittaja
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Received my 7A. Cleaned it out of the box and it’s working fine.

Such a pretty light.

Size and color comparison to S2+ and E2L in full sunlight. The FW3A’s color looks much better in real life than in some of the pictures I’ve seen. I don’t see myself doing anything to it.

Also it doesn’t really show in this picture but the E2L’s surface is a bit beaten up and even my bicycle mount has damaged the anodization layer.. I won’t be using the FW3A as a bike light but I still hope Lumintop’s anodization is more durable than Jaxman’s.

Like others have said I can’t stress enough how important it is to clean this thing before use. The switch and most importantly the head.

That’s the business end of a tooth pick covered in metal shavings and whatnot after running it through the threads of the head. Notice the long strand of metal and the other pile of metal stuff..

P.S. Regarding the tint: looks good indoors but I’ll reserve my final judgment until after summer when it’s dark again.

nobody
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Lagittaja wrote:
P.S. Regarding the tint: looks good indoors but I’ll reserve my final judgment until after summer when it’s dark again.

I was scratching my head at this until I noticed where you were from LOL!

Lagittaja
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nobody wrote:
Lagittaja wrote:
P.S. Regarding the tint: looks good indoors but I’ll reserve my final judgment until after summer when it’s dark again.

I was scratching my head at this until I noticed where you were from LOL!

Haha, yeah. I’m probably quite a bit more north than most people here.
Don’t want to advertise my location that much on the internet but let’s just say where I am as far as night/twilights go there will only be civil twilight from next week till middle of July. You can figure out the latitude from there. Which isn’t that far north considering I’ve spent quite a few summers in Rovaniemi where you can experience 24h’s of daylight for a month during the summer.

LightUpTheDark
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My 2 FW3A’s arrived via DHL yesterday. I chose one of each tint available at time of ordering (a 3D and a 7A) and had chosen to get batteries to feed them too, a Sony VTC6 (first one this brand and kind in my 18650 stash) and a Samsung 30Q.

No extensive reviews or beam shots here. All I gotta say is, dang that 7A warm white is definitely way more orange than white (not white to my eyes at all). Yes it was my first foray into 3000K warm white emitters but dang it was a big difference… it was more orange/yellow than my Mag2D with ROP HI hotwire mod (w/ FiveMega 6AA-2D adapter) that was warmer than any of my NW LED lights I have including my Manker E14 quad Nichia 219 (maybe the ROP was a xenon bulb, it’s been a while – built it in 2009). Maybe I’ve gotten used to the daylight white of my NW LEDs but the 7A seems more incandescent than what I used to recall as incandescent.

I guess it’ll take getting used to EDC’ing it.
Both lights did work as intended right out of the box and all the threads were clean (no burs or shaving) and well lubed.

Great job… now the wait for the next BLF project light (the lantern).

I’ve got a thrower, a flooder, and an EDC too. Still looking for a bigger thrower, flooder, and a new EDC, give or take a few. I’m a flashaholic.

tocirahl
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Just ordered the 219C version; looking forward to swapping out the emitters for the LH351D!

Was just waiting for the price to drop since I knew I’d be swapping out the emitters anyways.

f0xx
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I’m seeing that it is 4000K, but no mention of the CRI

TheShadowGuy
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I have had much better luck with SST20s than 219c. If the SST20 version is canceled/replaced by 219C I would be very disappointed. Crying

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….. hoping that there aren’t any changes or new offerings so that I can enjoy my new light for a few days anyway Wink

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ToyKeeper][quote=teacher wrote:
xevious wrote:
Btw, I just tried muggle mode… getting peculiar behavior when it would hit maximum — it would jump down to low.

Speaking of documentation, that’s documented. Smile
(it probably needs the temperature sensor calibrated)


Actually I did calibrate. The issue was head tightness. Once I applied a little more torque to the head, it stopped doing that. What’s the physical dynamic at hand when this happens? As I understand it, with the inner tube not completely seated the emitter shouldn’t have current. So sufficient tightening makes for a solid connection and the light functions. Is there some “in between” state possible, where the inner tube has contact, but not fully, and thus there’s some kind of weak voltage issue?
xevious
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flashycali wrote:
Nah FM is not old at all, I still sport a Sony FM Walkman when I’m running , much lighter than my phablet and does not flap around in my pocket. Life without Spotify….sounds scary but doable Smile

FM (frequency modulation) radio was invented in 1933. I’d call that old! LINK. LOL
But I still listen to it. I’m an NPR junkie (WNYC). I use an Apple iPod Nano, both 6th and 7th generations. The 6th is the smallest radio enabled MP3 player ever made. You clip it on the top of your shorts waistband and you’re good to go for a run. The 7th generation is a little larger, with more enriched UI; I usually take that with me on multi-day trips. It’s unfortunately not WiFi enabled, so you can’t download podcasts over WiFi… need to use iTunes.

Tally-ho wrote:
flashycali wrote:
Nah FM is not old at all

Radio ?! One of the best thing on earth…it don’t make you captive on the couch like TV. In France, france culture is one of the more interesting with programs about history, cinema, science, music, etc. Depending on programm, the presenter can let the guest talk for 5 or 10 minutes and even more without interupting him. No ads within or between programms. Thumbs Up

Right now there is a sociologist talking about “makers (space)”, “hackers (space)” and acaton.

I would wish to be more fluent in english to being able to listen BBC 4 more often.


That’s great you have that resource in France. In the USA, many of us utilize podcasts. Easily downloaded audio to MP3 players. I have an Apple iPod Touch (5th gen, with retractable lanyard loop) that is WiFi enabled, so I download all kinds of programs to it without requiring that cumbersome iTunes.
Klayking
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I’ve got an iPod Touch 3rd gen that I have been using for the last decade now. I’m not a fan of Apple’s ecosystem, but damn they can make a durable piece of technology. I doubt newer devices would run for as long without issues though. It’s not profitable to have somebody like me only buy once, rather than once every year…

I’m still a big radio fan though. I listen to it a lot in the car and at work. It’s the only way I keep up to date with what music is out now. I should probably check that Spotify out at some point, but I’m just not into music enough to justify paying a subscription.

xevious
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Klayking wrote:
I’ve got an iPod Touch 3rd gen that I have been using for the last decade now. I’m not a fan of Apple’s ecosystem, but damn they can make a durable piece of technology. I doubt newer devices would run for as long without issues though. It’s not profitable to have somebody like me only buy once, rather than once every year…

I’m still a big radio fan though. I listen to it a lot in the car and at work. It’s the only way I keep up to date with what music is out now. I should probably check that Spotify out at some point, but I’m just not into music enough to justify paying a subscription.


The earlier Apple iPods were build very solid, though scratch prone. The soft glossy plexiglass fronts and highly polished steel backs were just suckers for scratches. Definitely need a protector on the front and a protector case for the back. Thankfully later on, the newer designs lent themselves for tempered glass protectors — I’ve got one on my 7th and you can’t tell it’s there.

I’m also not a fan of Apple’s iTunes ecosystem—wished they made it optional, so you could transfer files directly. But they did that for copyright protection purposes… which ended up penalizing the convenience of those people playing by the rules (e.g. I ripped my own purchased CD’s to listen to the music on my MP3 player).

Btw, while Apple never put in a dedicated LED for illumination, the iPod screens are so bright! You can really use them like flashlights.

Klayking
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Would you believe that despite having no screen protector for 10 years, there isn’t a single scratch on the front of my iPod? The back has all kinds of little marks though, presumably from when I put it down on the table.

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tocirahl wrote:
Just ordered the 219C version; looking forward to swapping out the emitters for the LH351D!

Was just waiting for the price to drop since I knew I’d be swapping out the emitters anyways.


Yep, same here. I just ordered my second FW3A, with 219C leds that after some checking out will be replaced by 2700K SST-20 leds, and hopefully I can McGyver some red aux leds in there as well.
The price after discount was $31.68, close enough to the announced 30 dollar for me.
TheOnlyDocc
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I also ordered the 219C version. It is close enough to the 30$ and the leds get changed anyways. But i had no use for the XP-L leds.
The 219C will find a new home in a different light.

New WildTrail (former LuckySun) D80v2 Sale has Started http://budgetlightforum.com/node/66255

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Just a quick update…

There should be a new batch of drivers soon, and I’m working on firmware updates. So far I’ve got the following…

  • Fixed the bug maukka found — hold-from-off then release-and-hold in stepped ramp wouldn’t work until it had been on for a full second.
  • Made candle mode slightly more calm but also able to burn a bit brighter sometimes.
  • Beacon mode duty cycle is 100ms now instead of 500ms.
  • Made muggle mode do smaller thermal adjustments.
  • Rewrote most of the thermal regulation code. It should significantly improve pretty much anything related to temperature, except for the lack of factory calibration. (still in progress, running tests right now) It takes a while since I need to test basically every supported light, but the ones I’ve tested so far have all waited a sane amount of time to heat up, dropped quickly to a sustainable level, and then just … stayed there. None of this oscillation nonsense from earlier versions, and so far it has managed to step down at a point which is neither too early nor too late.

Also planning to do some other misc updates, as many as I can squeeze in before the deadline. Not sure which other tasks will get done in time. The top tasks are making “hold” auto-reverse in strobe modes, making momentary do the last-used mode instead of just the last-used brightness (so, momentary strobes), and generally making muggle mode a little nicer. Also debating whether to add ten-clicks-from-off as a shortut to thermal config mode. But I wouldn’t count on any of these things.

The main thing is better thermal regulation.

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Gaaah!!!!

Going to have to open up my FW3As and flash the updated drivers soon. Silly

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Lagittaja wrote:

Like others have said I can’t stress enough how important it is to clean this thing before use. The switch and most importantly the head.

That’s the business end of a tooth pick covered in metal shavings and whatnot after running it through the threads of the head. Notice the long strand of metal and the other pile of metal stuff..

Could this have anything to do with why my switch has gotten stuck at least twice (and started ramping up to full brightness immediately).?

bigtrav261
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This was posted on the ‘Lumintop Family’ FB group:

“FW3C sample?who knows? Big Smile

Klayking
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Nice, I’ll probably end up picking up another FW3A when the new driver and LED versions are in circulation. As always, thanks for all the hard work TK!

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Sounds good.
Have you thought about/ would it be possible to incorporate a configuration lock for ramp config, ie the settings for mode numbers, max ceiling & floor can’t be changed unless a code is entered like the H17F or preferably like the LD4Power drivers?
I’ve slipped into ramp config a couple of times & accidently changed settings.
Just a thought.

Melez
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Thanks for working so hard on updates TK! Now to figure out how to flash new firmware as someone who’s a dumbass.

teacher
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CRX wrote:
bigtrav261 wrote:
This was posted on the ‘Lumintop Family’ FB group:

“FW3C sample?who knows? Big Smile


Raw & cooked Smile
Yep, it looks to be about ‘medium-well’. Wink

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raccoon city
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Woohoo!

I received my FW3A today...

(I think it was delivered yesterday, but we didn't get the mail.)

This thing is really small!

It is much shorter than my Convoy S2+ Triple.

So far, I really like it, but I've only played with it for a few minutes.

Thanks to everyone that made this awesome little flashlight possible!  :BEER:

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Lane32x wrote:
Lagittaja wrote:

Like others have said I can’t stress enough how important it is to clean this thing before use. The switch and most importantly the head.

That’s the business end of a tooth pick covered in metal shavings and whatnot after running it through the threads of the head. Notice the long strand of metal and the other pile of metal stuff..

Could this have anything to do with why my switch has gotten stuck at least twice (and started ramping up to full brightness immediately).?

Yes. It’s probably caused by something like that, something physically out of place inside the light. I found similar metal shavings inside an earlier prototype, and sent Lumintop a bug report about it.

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