FW3A, a TLF/BLF EDC flashlight - SST-20 available, coupon codes public

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teacher
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xevious wrote:
Too long a delay on shut-off? Man, tough crowd. It’s a fraction of a second. I don’t see any reason to be bothered about it.
….. (snip) …….

Big Smile . +1 . The best ‘I’ can time it…. it’s 0.21 seconds.
“Tough crowd” indeed… ‘it would seem’. Wink

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

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teacher wrote:
xevious wrote:
Too long a delay on shut-off? Man, tough crowd. It’s a fraction of a second. I don’t see any reason to be bothered about it. ….. (snip) …….
Big Smile . +1 . The best ‘I’ can time it…. it’s 0.21 seconds.

It should be pretty close to 384 ms.

For comparison, ZebraLight uses a button timing of ~600 ms, and even that is too fast for some people.

The fastest I’ve seen anyone use was ~256 ms.

Edit: it looks like ZL’s “press timeout” is about ~600 ms, but their “release timeout” appears to be more like 350 to 400 ms… almost identical to Anduril’s default … side-by-side they appear to be exactly the same delay.

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ToyKeeper wrote:
xevious wrote:
Did you do both sides of the glass? I’m a little puzzled… wouldn’t removal of the coating increase lumens?

I removed AR coating from both sides of one lens, and only one side of another. The latter was a prototype which apparently only got coated on one side.

AR coating increases the amount of light it lets through. That’s what it’s for. However, AR coating also tends to change the tint. So I sacrificed a few lumens for a slightly better tint.


Gotcha. I just did a little “head smack”… because of course, “anti-reflect” means there’s no light lost on reflection. Wink I’ve got the NW 3D tint. It’s beautifully neutral. Not seeing any green, yellow, or blue. And actually on lower modes it seems just a little warm to my eye. I’m very happy I went with it, over the much yellower 7A.

ToyKeeper wrote:
It should be pretty close to 384 ms.

For comparison, ZebraLight uses a button timing of ~600 ms, and even that is too fast for some people.

The fastest I’ve seen anyone use was ~256 ms.

Edit: it looks like ZL’s “press timeout” is about ~600 ms, but their “release timeout” appears to be more like 350 to 400 ms… almost identical to Anduril’s default … side-by-side they appear to be exactly the same delay.


Count me in as one of those people who gets a little annoyed by how long I have to hold the switch from off on my ZL to keep it from going to turbo. And to hold it for off. I sure wish they’d adjust that… Overall, I think it’s a terrific light, for it’s own proprietary distinctiveness. Would be kind of cool to have Anduril running on it, though. Wink
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ToyKeeper wrote:
teacher wrote:
xevious wrote:
Too long a delay on shut-off? Man, tough crowd. It’s a fraction of a second. I don’t see any reason to be bothered about it. ….. (snip) …….
Big Smile . +1 . The best ‘I’ can time it…. it’s 0.21 seconds.

It should be pretty close to 384 ms.

For comparison, ZebraLight uses a button timing of ~600 ms, and even that is too fast for some people.

The fastest I’ve seen anyone use was ~256 ms.

My timing was extremely low tech, a digital stopwatch. Facepalm . Highly unscientific or accurate but it was the best I could do. My bad…
.
EDIT:

Yeah… I See What You Mean

.21 sec = 210 ms

.384 sec = 384 ms

With my pituful method I’m actually surprised I was as close as I was. Big Smile

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

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swiftblade13 wrote:
Well mine just arrived (3D) and I immediately realized that I hate the emitter tint (especially compared side by side with the 219c in my manker eo3h, I love absolutely everything else about the flashlight, just not cool white,
Any chance of it growing on me… Sick

I think everyone considers the 3D 4800K to be neutral white.

Cool white is more like 5700K and up.

What color is the manker eo3h led? All I can find is 90cri. Maybe it’s a 4000K? If so, you might prefer the sst20 4000K version better.

Texas Ace Lumen Tube calibrated with Maukka lights

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http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1503418#comment-1503418

Minocc wrote:

Anyone interested in a diffuser or two?
Printing some for a few people, thought I’d see if maybe anyone else wants some and doesn’t have a printer around.

Price is $1.50 each, plus whatever shipping costs to mail a 4×4×2 box from 54140 to your zip code.

I have these colors available,

plus a clear-ish that I have to properly dry before printing again:

I was gone a few days when my diffusers were delivered & just opened them up.

These are very nicely done! They fit very well & stay on even if the light is waved around. The light is diffused nicely for my taste.

I think you nailed this diffuser design Minocc!! Great job & thank you.
I am beyond pleased. Thumbs Up

HERE are some comparison pictures of all 7 colors.

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

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teacher
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hyperduc wrote:

Teacher, good to know others are interested in the XPL HI triple if I remove it. I’ll keep that in mind depending on whether a LH351D is offered soon.

Sounds like a plan hyperduc, thank you. Thumbs Up

Oh yeah, like JasonWW said above; 3D would be Neutral White… not Cold. . Wink

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

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teacher wrote:
Oh yeah, like JasonWW said above; 3D would be Neutral White… not Cold. . Wink

Yep, sure looks neutral white to me. It was pretty clearly stated in the product details page. And it’s a good rendition of NW, too. I’m really happy with it. I don’t get how some people are all bugged out about all their lights being warm Hi CRI. It’s nice to have some variety… The thing to avoid is screechy ice blue. The nasty of 6500K LED’s past. Yuck.
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/\ . Thumbs Up

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

       Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$  

         Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart  

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Hello everyone .

Is there a way to reset the Anduril UI to factory defaults ?

For some uknown reason , double click (from OFF) doesn’t seem to enter Turbo , or other shortcuts (battcheck , lock out etc ) (edit: with triple/qud click etc) .

Thanks

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giorgoskok wrote:
Hello everyone .

Is there a way to reset the Anduril UI to factory defaults ?

For some uknown reason , double click (from OFF) doesn’t seem to enter Turbo , or other shortcuts (battcheck , lock out etc ) .

Thanks

Try quickly clicking the button six times.

Your light might be in muggle mode.

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giorgoskok wrote:
Hello everyone .

Is there a way to reset the Anduril UI to factory defaults ?

For some uknown reason , double click (from OFF) doesn’t seem to enter Turbo , or other shortcuts (battcheck , lock out etc ) (edit: with triple/qud click etc) .

Thanks


There is no reset. Sorry.

Double click (from OFF) never went to Turbo, it goes to the highest regulated mode (top of the default ramp). Double click while On will go to Turbo.

As far as the others, you might be in muggle mode as said above.


.

Texas Ace Lumen Tube calibrated with Maukka lights

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I have been using mine for a while now, and after the initial problems with dirt etc, everything has worked well. I am now using 35E’s instead of 30Q’s as I don’t need scary bright for 10 seconds Smile
I find I prefer the 7A to the 3D given the choice. I am liking this flashlight more and more and even used candle mode last night. I have also got a 219c on order and am definitely in for any copper versions in the future.
All in all its a very good flashlight that has taken over from my Emisar D4s (for now LOL as my goto light.

Thanks very much for all the effort that has gone into this.

Bonum commune communitatis.

Yarp.

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Indeed i was in muggle mode , thanks Minocc & Jason .

I was also in “stepped” mode , thats what made me think i wasn’t in muggle mode before Facepalm .

Been 5 minutes into Anduril i think i figured everything out .

Thanks again

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Received my 3D and 7A, both DOA. Followed troubleshooting but no luck reviving them. Haven’t given up yet but the chances seem like they’re gettting slimmer.

Really wanted to try Anduril but doesn’t seem like a good trade off for reliability. Guess flashing the D4 is my next stop.

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JasonWW wrote:
swiftblade13 wrote:
Well mine just arrived (3D) and I immediately realized that I hate the emitter tint (especially compared side by side with the 219c in my manker eo3h, I love absolutely everything else about the flashlight, just not cool white,
Any chance of it growing on me… Sick

I think everyone considers the 3D 4800K to be neutral white.

Cool white is more like 5700K and up.

What color is the manker eo3h led? All I can find is 90cri. Maybe it’s a 4000K? If so, you might prefer the sst20 4000K version better.


Ok so I did do a side by side comparison and to my eye the eo3h is slightly warmer, so I’d say you’re right with your guess at 4000k.

I definitely have to say though, @ToyKeeper did a stellar job on the iu,
I can’t stop playing with it, Big Smile
Now that I’ve slept on it I’ve realized that a significant part of my disappointment is that candle mode doesn’t look that good in a neutral white tint,
Though I did have some lighting gells laying around,
I wonder if a piece of CTO can fix that…
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clip. wrote:
Received my 3D and 7A, both DOA. Followed troubleshooting but no luck reviving them. Haven’t given up yet but the chances seem like they’re gettting slimmer.

One dead flashlight, manufacturer error. TWO dead-on-arrival? You must be doing something wrong. Cheack the troubleshooting thread. Maybe your batteries are too long.
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clip. wrote:
Received my 3D and 7A, both DOA. Followed troubleshooting but no luck reviving them. Haven’t given up yet but the chances seem like they’re gettting slimmer.

Really wanted to try Anduril but doesn’t seem like a good trade off for reliability. Guess flashing the D4 is my next stop.


Battery stickers maybe?
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EnlightenMe wrote:
clip. wrote:
Received my 3D and 7A, both DOA. Followed troubleshooting but no luck reviving them. Haven’t given up yet but the chances seem like they’re gettting slimmer.
One dead flashlight, manufacturer error. TWO dead-on-arrival? You must be doing something wrong. Cheack the troubleshooting thread. Maybe your batteries are too long.

Please list details of exactly what you did, known good batts, etc., maybe we can help. I got the 3D and 7A and one was DOA but the driver retaining ring was loose - tightened up and never gave me a problem again.

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giorgoskok wrote:
Indeed i was in muggle mode , thanks Minocc & Jason .

I was also in “stepped” mode , thats what made me think i wasn’t in muggle mode before Facepalm .

Been 5 minutes into Anduril i think i figured everything out .

Thanks again


Well that’s a bit of a mystery. I run my light in stepped ramping (not smooth). When I switched to muggle mode, it showed smooth ramping instead of stepped. Triple click would not switch from smooth to stepped. When I took the light out of muggle mode, it remembered that primary mode was set for stepped ramping. So I’m really puzzled how you got into stepped ramping while in muggle mode. Sushi
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clip. wrote:
Received my 3D and 7A, both DOA. Followed troubleshooting but no luck reviving them. Haven’t given up yet but the chances seem like they’re gettting slimmer.

Really wanted to try Anduril but doesn’t seem like a good trade off for reliability. Guess flashing the D4 is my next stop.

Hi…. Go HERE . Read it, do what is says, and hopefully that will fix you up. Thumbs Up

If you have not already, be sure to READ & DO exactly what is said in post #1 & post #2.

It would be a good idea to read all the first 7 posts.

The likelihood of you getting two, truly DOA FW3A’s; is very slim.

Keep us posted. Thumbs Up

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

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         Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart  

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clip.
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EnlightenMe wrote:
clip. wrote:
Received my 3D and 7A, both DOA. Followed troubleshooting but no luck reviving them. Haven’t given up yet but the chances seem like they’re gettting slimmer.
One dead flashlight, manufacturer error. TWO dead-on-arrival? You must be doing something wrong. Cheack the troubleshooting thread. Maybe your batteries are too long.

Inclined to agree it’s operator error, but one shows no life and the other immediately goes to 100% with no control as soon as threads make contact. I’ll be continuing in the troubleshooting thread as my details are already posted there, unless I run out of options. Then I’ll be back to cause trouble here.

clip.
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Tom E wrote:

EnlightenMe wrote:
clip. wrote:
Received my 3D and 7A, both DOA. Followed troubleshooting but no luck reviving them. Haven’t given up yet but the chances seem like they’re gettting slimmer.
One dead flashlight, manufacturer error. TWO dead-on-arrival? You must be doing something wrong. Cheack the troubleshooting thread. Maybe your batteries are too long.

Please list details of exactly what you did, known good batts, etc., maybe we can help. I got the 3D and 7A and one was DOA but the driver retaining ring was loose – tightened up and never gave me a problem again.

Two known good 30Q, cleaned threads, tightened tail cap in order, both retaining rings tight on arrival, loosened then tightened both to confirm driver alignment, disassembled and reassembled switches, checked and cleaned switch contact tube, swapped heads and tails between bodies. Problems follow each head – one has never illuminated with either switch and tube, x the other has always gone to 100% with no control.

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Ahh, ok. The one goin to 100% sounds like a short if it goes to 100% without even activating the switch. Not sure how comfortable you are with looking int to the head, but the easiest thing to check is the wire connections to the MCPCB perhaps, if you are ok with removing the bezel, then getting out the optics - should give you a clear view of the wire solder connections, and then inspect for anything loose, bare wire, ground shorts, etc.

Also from the back of the driver, be sure the brass colored ring around the edge of the driver is not making contact with the driver retaining ring - they need to be separated. That ring on the driver is for the black inner tube contact for the switch signal, while the driver retaining ring should be the batt- signal.

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clip. wrote:
Tom E wrote:

EnlightenMe wrote:
clip. wrote:
Received my 3D and 7A, both DOA. Followed troubleshooting but no luck reviving them. Haven’t given up yet but the chances seem like they’re gettting slimmer.
One dead flashlight, manufacturer error. TWO dead-on-arrival? You must be doing something wrong. Cheack the troubleshooting thread. Maybe your batteries are too long.

Please list details of exactly what you did, known good batts, etc., maybe we can help. I got the 3D and 7A and one was DOA but the driver retaining ring was loose – tightened up and never gave me a problem again.

Two known good 30Q, cleaned threads, tightened tail cap in order, both retaining rings tight on arrival, loosened then tightened both to confirm driver alignment, disassembled and reassembled switches, checked and cleaned switch contact tube, swapped heads and tails between bodies. Problems follow each head – one has never illuminated with either switch and tube, x the other has always gone to 100% with no control.


I had a similar issue, I removed the clip and straightened out the ring as it was slightly deformed and caused the tail to feel tight but not sit flush.
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ToyKeeper wrote:
trakcon wrote:
What did you use to polish the AR coating off? Did it make a big difference?

I used a “Sunshine polishing cloth”. It took a while. Basically, put a sheet of plastic on a table, put the cloth on the sheet, and then rub the lens on it for a while.

This reduced the lumens by about 3% or maybe 4%, but also changed the tint a bit to make it less green and more pink.

Thanks, TK.

hank
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Any chance of making the driver blink out a self-identification including a revision number?

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hank wrote:
Any chance of making the driver blink out a self-identification including a revision number?

I think it was decided that because of constant development there are too many revisions for it to be helpful and it would end up being some confusing series of a lot of blinks for not much real benefit.

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JasonWW wrote:
MascaratumB wrote:

Hum, this may be a stupid question but after being baked, if it gets polished, will it turn “polished baked colour” or will it assume the aluminium below the brown surface?

The anodized layer is very thin. Maybe 25 microns. How exactly would you polish it? If you used a slightly abrasive polishing compound you would probably remove the anodized layer and be back to raw aluminum. The color change when baking the anodized part happens only to the dyes in the anodized layer. The aluminum underneath stays the same color.

Thanks for the answer Jason. It was more a theoretical question that practical as I wouldn’t polish it for sure. No tools nor know-how! I just wanted to perceive how the materials would change and how it would look after polishing !
Thanks again Thumbs Up

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Does anyone know how to track shipments from Neil’s Gadgets? I was provided with a number and I am used to tracking packages from abroad (Asia, Europe, Russia) but can’t get any services to recognize the number. Thanks in advance.

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