FW3A, a TLF/BLF EDC flashlight - SST-20 available, coupon codes public

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Man Without Shadow
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When I'm spending mony foolishly, I like to do it wi$ely...

I have all the flashlights I need, but not as many as I want...

 

xevious
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sygyzy wrote:
Does anyone know how to track shipments from Neil’s Gadgets? I was provided with a number and I am used to tracking packages from abroad (Asia, Europe, Russia) but can’t get any services to recognize the number. Thanks in advance.

I had good luck with https://www.17track.net/en. Keep in mind that there’s a DHL hand-off to USPS near the end (in the USA that is) and the USPS website doesn’t track it. You will see updates on 17 Track.

I haven’t been to SF in a long time. How’s the sygyzy club these days? Is the giant octopus still alive?

Melez
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I got notification from DHL that my FW3A should get in… by the end of May, I guess a month wait isn’t the end of the world right?

So I got thinking, if I don’t want to stick with my tint, or I just REALLY want the LH351D emitter, has anyone done emitter swaps already? I was looking at: http://www.mtnelectronics.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=60_13... but wasn’t sure of the size pcb I’d need.

Anyone got advice on that? Full disclosure: I am something of an idiot.

contactcr
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Melez wrote:
I got notification from DHL that my FW3A should get in… by the end of May, I guess a month wait isn’t the end of the world right?

So I got thinking, if I don’t want to stick with my tint, or I just REALLY want the LH351D emitter, has anyone done emitter swaps already? I was looking at: http://www.mtnelectronics.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=60_13... but wasn’t sure of the size pcb I’d need.

Anyone got advice on that? Full disclosure: I am something of an idiot.

That should be compatible. That will come with wires pre-soldered on that you wont need but no big deal. If you have a little soldering experience it should be fairly straightforward.

PBWilson
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sygyzy wrote:
Does anyone know how to track shipments from Neil’s Gadgets? I was provided with a number and I am used to tracking packages from abroad (Asia, Europe, Russia) but can’t get any services to recognize the number. Thanks in advance.

I never got my tracking number to be recognized. I eventually got my light though!

WalkIntoTheLight
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BlueSwordM wrote:
The Nichia 219C is the absolute worst in terms of performance.

Lowest forward voltage of all LEDs, and worse efficiency than even the SST-20 95CRI.

The Nichia 219C has a nice even tint, though. No ugly shifts across the beam. Of course, the Cree HI emitters don’t have tint shift, either. Lower CRI, though.

But what about the SST-20? Does it have tint shift?

teacher
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Melez wrote:

I got notification from DHL that my FW3A should get in… by the end of May, I guess a month wait isn’t the end of the world right?
Right. Considering this was a PRE-ORDER & you were toward the end of the list at numbers 2106 & 2107, a month is not bad at all…. and not even close to “the end of the world”. Thumbs Up

Melez wrote:

So I got thinking, if I don’t want to stick with my tint, or I just REALLY want the LH351D emitter, has anyone done emitter swaps already? I was looking at: http://www.mtnelectronics.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=60_13... but wasn’t sure of the size pcb I’d need.

Anyone got advice on that? Full disclosure: I am something of an idiot.

If you can unsolder the two wires the new MCPCB comes with & the two wires on the FW3A MCPCB, swap the MCPCB’s & resolder the two wires in the FW3A on to the new MCPCB… your good to go.

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

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heatwaves
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With the release of the nichia version, does this mean the SST-20 version is dead or delayed further? I prefer the SST-20, but would buy the nichia version if it’s confirmed that it’s replacing the SST-20 that’s been hard to source.

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I wish there was a Luxeon V2 version… Ordering my V2’s tomorrow…

Astrolux MF01 Mini, BLF Q8, BLF A6, BLF FW3A, BLF FW3C, Convoy L6, Convoy C8+ , Convoy S3, Convoy M21A, Convoy S11, Emisar D4, Fireflies E07, Jaxman E2L, Lumintop EDC18, Manta Ray C8.2 long version, Olight S1R Baton II special edition series, S2R Baton II, Nitecore HC65, Olight H1R Nova.

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Bucknkd313
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Anyone else seen a tracking showing returned to shipper? Mine shows shipped on 05-20-19 and then "Returned to shipper" 05-22-19. I emailed Neal but haven't heard back yet. I'm more patient when I'm not confused...

Coscar
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Bucknkd313 wrote:
I’m more patient when I’m not confused…

You are gonna fit right in here………. Beer

Im not a Pessimist …. just an Optimist with a lot of experience

justanotherguy
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Bucknkd313 wrote:

Anyone else seen a tracking showing returned to shipper? Mine shows shipped on 05-20-19 and then “Returned to shipper” 05-22-19. I emailed Neal but haven’t heard back yet. I’m more patient when I’m not confused…

My first one arrived almost two weeks ago… The second was hung up in tracking… Mind you they were ordered minutes apart… Now DHL gives me this :

We wish to inform you that a number of packages may experience delayed or missing tracking information. Continue to check this tracking page for the latest update. Please accept our sincere apology for any inconvenience this may cause.

nothing from Neal yet

anyone in NE ILLinois into get togethers?

mortuus
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heatwaves wrote:
With the release of the nichia version, does this mean the SST-20 version is dead or delayed further? I prefer the SST-20, but would buy the nichia version if it’s confirmed that it’s replacing the SST-20 that’s been hard to source.

no i dont think nichia rules out the sst20, last i read here they are still working on getting it or something.

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Yeah.

The SST-20 is throwier, has better color rendition, and has the same efficiency, and is actually cheaper to get.

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
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bigtrav261 wrote:


Is this yours?? Or you just posting a picture you found somewhere??

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

       Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$  

         Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart  

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someone should hit the rude button on this person for posting this picture Wink

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Thumbs Up . /\ .. Big Smile

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

       Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$  

         Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart  

      Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help???            TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal 

 

                                             

Marc E
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mortuus wrote:
heatwaves wrote:
With the release of the nichia version, does this mean the SST-20 version is dead or delayed further? I prefer the SST-20, but would buy the nichia version if it’s confirmed that it’s replacing the SST-20 that’s been hard to source.

no i dont think nichia rules out the sst20, last i read here they are still working on getting it or something.


Post #11009:
Neal wrote:
because we still not found the SST20 and LH351D led
and a few people asked for the nichia version
so I add it to the list, lumintop will assembly some next week.

I take that to mean the Nichia version is as well as, and not instead of, the SST-20 version, and does not impact the production of the SST-20 version.
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contactcr wrote:
hank wrote:
Any chance of making the driver blink out a self-identification including a revision number?

I think it was decided that because of constant development there are too many revisions for it to be helpful and it would end up being some confusing series of a lot of blinks for not much real benefit.

Yeah, it’s usually easy enough to figure out the revision based on the light’s behavior. A useful version string would end up being very long and difficult to read.

Melez wrote:
Full disclosure: I am something of an idiot.

Then you’re in good company. Most of us are idiots around here. At least, I know I’ve done some pretty dumb things…

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bigtrav261 wrote:

That’s a pic from Neal. It’s a FW3C prototype sample.

I’m hoping the production version can be polished or even just raw to improve durability and give it more of a classic copper look.

bigtrav261
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Nope, not mine. I’m not fortunate enough to have such good connections. This was posted on a FB group, and was originally posted on reddit.

teacher wrote:
bigtrav261 wrote:


Is this yours?? Or you just posting a picture you found somewhere??
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/\ . Thumbs Up

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

       Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$  

         Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart  

      Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help???            TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal 

 

                                             

will34
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Sandblasted Ti body and tail + raw Cu head

Is it ok to dream?

mortuus
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so 35E batteries are the best if u looking for best runtimes yea ?

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WalkIntoTheLight
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mortuus wrote:
so 35E batteries are the best if u looking for best runtimes yea ?

Those are 8A cells, which is certainly plenty for the regulated modes. 7×7135 chips should max out at 2.5A, assuming they are 350mA chips.

I don’t know what the max current is on turbo, which is pure FET driver. I would guess it’s pushing around 8A with a full battery, less as the battery depletes. Anyone measure it? IIRC, I think the max discharge of the 35E is rated at 13A, but that would be for brief periods.

Given how quickly the light will ramp down on turbo, I doubt the battery would be draining more than 8A for very long, if at all. So the 35E should be fine. Or, you could go with a Sanyo GA cell (10A) which gives you some margin. Personally, I wouldn’t worry about it, though.

The only thing I’d stay away from are older low-drain cells, like the Panasonic NCR18650B.

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Is there some estimation how long the FW3A will run on the lowest moon mode, for example on a 30Q cell?

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WalkIntoTheLight wrote:
mortuus wrote:
so 35E batteries are the best if u looking for best runtimes yea ?

Those are 8A cells, which is certainly plenty for the regulated modes. 7×7135 chips should max out at 2.5A, assuming they are 350mA chips.

I don’t know what the max current is on turbo, which is pure FET driver. I would guess it’s pushing around 8A with a full battery, less as the battery depletes. Anyone measure it? IIRC, I think the max discharge of the 35E is rated at 13A, but that would be for brief periods.

Given how quickly the light will ramp down on turbo, I doubt the battery would be draining more than 8A for very long, if at all. So the 35E should be fine. Or, you could go with a Sanyo GA cell (10A) which gives you some margin. Personally, I wouldn’t worry about it, though.

The only thing I’d stay away from are older low-drain cells, like the Panasonic NCR18650B.


I think the continuous discharge rating is pretty irrelevant. It’s more of a way to compare batteries and not so much a way to match a battery to a light. You are taking it way too literally. It’s kind of a subjective number, so don’t pay too much attention to it.

The best runtimes might be from the Panasonic NCR18650B, assuming you don’t care about measuring the Turbo output. The 35E and GA (and MJ1) are also fine cells for this light.

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will34 wrote:
Sandblasted Ti body and tail + raw Cu head

Is it ok to dream?


I’d rather have full Time. Even if that means the fet is turned off by default to protect the LED’s.
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  Has anyone baked one of these yet .

 That light in a bag looks like maybe it was done in the microwave. you know how they tell you NOT to cook in those plastic bags .. Silly 

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