FW3A, a TLF/BLF EDC flashlight - SST-20 available, coupon codes public

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Firelight2
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legan710 wrote:
Now I’m lost and kind of sad.

I want it all, but I don’t need any of that beautiful blue an purple and SST20 and copper. It’s impossible to decide on a second FW3_

Great job of everyone involved.

You know you want to get all available color options for the FW3A so you lego the parts with a purple bezel, copper head, blue body tube and titanium tailcap!

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ToyKeeper wrote:
djozz wrote:

You had me thinking that those were real Smile
The color samples are real. I just added a logo on the button to see how it’d look.
Thumbs Up

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

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xevious
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nick779 wrote:
xevious wrote:
Bluzie wrote:
I hope you can use it.
Thanks! I didn’t realize the Taschenlampen site had updates to include the FW3A. Very cool! Confirms my feeling about the 7A… too warm for my taste. I’d like something half way between 3D and 7A.
pinkpanda3310 wrote:
Usually I like the warmer colours but I’m not sold on the 7A as it comes across to me as a kind of burnt orange. Something about it is just not right.

7A looks nowhere near that orange IRL. Those beamshots dont do the color justice at all.


Well, I thought the beam shot photos Taschenlampen made for the Zebralights I ended up getting to be fairly representative. I’ve got the 3D emitter bin in my FW3A and the beam photo doesn’t look unjust to me. Naturally there are some deviations to keep in mind like screen calibration and subject matter. Do you have a different beam shot example of the 7A?
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xevious wrote:
nick779 wrote:
7A looks nowhere near that orange IRL. Those beamshots dont do the color justice at all.
Well, I thought the beam shot photos Taschenlampen made for the Zebralights I ended up getting to be fairly representative. I’ve got the 3D emitter bin in my FW3A and the beam photo doesn’t look unjust to me. Naturally there are some deviations to keep in mind like screen calibration and subject matter. Do you have a different beam shot example of the 7A?

I think he’s saying that a 3000K tint beamshot, using a 5000K color-balance on the camera, isn’t a fair representation of what your eyes see.

When I use the 7A FW3A in a dark room, it looks white. Perhaps a little warmish, but certainly not orange like it does in the photo.

If I use it in the daytime, sure, it looks orange. But that’s because my eyes are expecting somewhere around a 6000K color. But again, it doesn’t look that way at night when it’s the only light source. Our eyes adapt. Photos don’t.

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JasonWW wrote:
xevious, you should delete or edit your post #11674.
Yep…. Thumbs Up .. Wink

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

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Tally-ho wrote:
The FW3A unanodized (Ti/Cu ?) looks much better even less polished because a buffing wheel rounds off all those angles, rounded angles don"t look good to me. https://imgur.com/hh5h87ml.jpg

I believe this is a Stainless Steel/Copper version ...

The following lineup looks logical to me:

FW3A = Aluminium (f.e with XP-L HI 1A)

FW3B = Brass (f.e with XP-L HI 3D)

FW3C = Copper (f.e with XP-L HI 7A)

FW3S = Stainless Steel/Copper (f.e with SST-20)

FW3T = Titanium/Copper (f.e with Nichia 219C)

So we could have a different emitter choice for every model Wink

Beer

 

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ToyKeeper wrote:
It seems there might be colored anodizing too. [snip]

If they make the purple I'm buying it and selling the one I've got. 

Interested.

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Lund1660
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Is their a coupon code for the copper? I tried the code I got for the first batch but that did not work.

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Lund1660 wrote:
Is their a coupon code for the copper? I tried the code I got for the first batch but that did not work.

It's clearly mentioned in the OP and should be $59,50 afterwards Wink

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Lund1660 wrote:
Is their a coupon code for the copper? I tried the code I got for the first batch but that did not work.

http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1515848#comment-1515848

Neal wrote:
FW3A Team wrote:
Just a quick update…

The SST-20 version is available to order now, and the tint bin is FA3.

The coupon codes at Neal’s Gadgets are “NDFW3A” and “BLFFW3C”. These work for the aluminum version (FW3A) and the copper version (FW3C), respectively.

Neal asked for the coupons to be published, now that the copper and SST-20 lights are available.

If you have got the group buy message before, just use that coupon, same as the XPL HI 3D/1A/7A coupon… <— <-<-<— (for the Aluminum versions)

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

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         Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart  

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Lund1660
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That’s is the code I tried, says code is invalid. The

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Lund1660 wrote:
That’s is the code I tried, says code is invalid. The
You tried BLFFW3C??

Beats me then….

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

       Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$  

         Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart  

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Lund1660 wrote:
That’s is the code I tried, says code is invalid.

Try MDFW3C (public code from M4D M4X) Wink

Edit: also try NDFW3C (so there could be 3 codes ND... MD... BLF...) and please tell us if it worked out for you

Beer

 

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Has anyone done some rough runtime tests for lowest moonlight mode?

What are people thinking it would get? Days, weeks, Zebralight runtimes?

EDIT: I also wanted to add that I posted a while back because I received one with a mis-soldered head spring.
Kudos to Neal and co. for taking care of me. I received a new head that works great!

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I’m trying to my head around the SST-20 option. Is the only advantage color rendition, but at the expense of green tint at low levels? I know it will run hotter, not be as bright, and it probably won’t throw farther because it’s not as bright (all vs Cree).

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teacher wrote:
Lund1660 wrote:
That’s is the code I tried, says code is invalid. The
You tried BLFFW3C??

Beats me then….

@ Lund1660…..
I don’t know why BLFFW3C won’t work for you, it works fine for me. Drops the price to $59.50.

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

       Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$  

         Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart  

      Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help???            TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal 

 

                                             

teacher
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cabfrank wrote:
I’m trying to my head around the SST-20 option. Is the only advantage color rendition, but at the expense of green tint at low levels? I know it will run hotter, not be as bright, and it probably won’t throw farther because it’s not as bright (all vs Cree).
Same here, I got one because it was cheaper & I am planning on changing emitters. I hope I am surprised & will like it, but the things you mentioned make that very unlikely in this light.

Color rendition between a Medium CRI HP-L HI & a Higher CRI SST-20 just does not mean that much to me.
To many trade offs for little or no gain ‘to me’.
ymmv

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

       Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$  

         Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart  

      Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help???            TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal 

 

                                             

JasonWW
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FlyingJ wrote:
Has anyone done some rough runtime tests for lowest moonlight mode?

What are people thinking it would get? Days, weeks, Zebralight runtimes?

EDIT: I also wanted to add that I posted a while back because I received one with a mis-soldered head spring.
Kudos to Neal and co. for taking care of me. I received a new head that works great!


Toykeeper said “The lowest level is about 0.3 lm and can run for about 3 months.”
Good to hear that Neal got your problem sorted. Thumbs Up

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Firelight2
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JasonWW wrote:
cabfrank wrote:
I’m trying to my head around the SST-20 option. Is the only advantage color rendition, but at the expense of green tint at low levels? I know it will run hotter, not be as bright, and it probably won’t throw farther because it’s not as bright (all vs Cree).

Didn’t everyone say it WILL throw farther due the smaller die size?

No.

Results between the emitters should be the same as for the Emisar D4.

Basically, only SST-20 70 CRI 5000K throws farther.

SST-20 95 CRI 4000K, like that used in the FW3A, is dimmer. Expect the same throw as XPL HI. The light should be high CRI with beautiful R9 (reds really pop), but produces noticeably less light and more heat.

Lund1660
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Thanks everyone, worked for me now and ordered, not sure what I did wrong.

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Firelight2 wrote:
JasonWW wrote:
cabfrank wrote:
I’m trying to my head around the SST-20 option. Is the only advantage color rendition, but at the expense of green tint at low levels? I know it will run hotter, not be as bright, and it probably won’t throw farther because it’s not as bright (all vs Cree).

Didn’t everyone say it WILL throw farther due the smaller die size?

No.

Results between the emitters should be the same as for the Emisar D4.

Basically, only SST-20 70 CRI 5000K throws farther.

SST-20 95 CRI 4000K, like that used in the FW3A, is dimmer. Expect the same throw as XPL HI. The light should be high CRI with beautiful R9 (reds really pop), but produces noticeably less light and more heat.


Okay, I deleted the post. Why were so many wanting the SST-20? There had to be a reason.

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zak.wilson
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A CRI of 70 is 6 times as much color error as CRI of 95, and the 3D option is reportedly greener than expected. These are also a less green tint bin of SST-20 than most of us have used before. I don’t think you’re giving up much with SST-20 vs. XP-L HI – just a little efficiency in exchange for a huge increase in color vividness and accuracy.

I think I’m waiting for the FW3T and other colors before I buy more though.

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ValuseekeR
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Ordered an SST-20 to go with my 3D. Thanks again to all involved!!

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Are you able to set the L – M – High with anduril? I’m curious if I can set the exact output so I know Im exactly around 400-500 lumens

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You can configure a stepped ramp with three levels, and set the floor/ceiling wherever you like.

WalkIntoTheLight
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zak.wilson wrote:
A CRI of 70 is 6 times as much color error as CRI of 95,

Well…. okay, but by that logic a CRI of 95 has an infinite amount of color error compared to an incandescent light (CRI 100).

But in real-world use…?

I like high CRI too. But, it doesn’t seem like a huge improvement over a typical Cree neutral white. Definitely a big improvement over crappy cool white, though.

Worth it for some lights. Get both!

peabody
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SST-20 ordered. Old code works fine. The wait continues.

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I wish the FW3C was available with the Luminus SST20 4000K emitter option.  

 

 

JasonWW
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I LIKE FLASHLIGHTS wrote:

I wish the FW3C was available with the Samsung SST20 4000K emitter option.  



It’s available with the SST-20 4000K right now. The SST-20 is made by Luminus.

Did you mean to say the Samsung LH351D 4000K?

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