Is that other one white? I didn’t think you could do white anodization. I though it was a light silver that looked a bit whitish due to the camera.
If I understand correctly, white ano is made the same way as silver ano, or virtually any other color except “natural” — by adding dye. Natural ano is without dye, silver can technically be done without except it’s extremely thin, and the common type-II colors (including silver) just use different colors of dye.
With type-III ano, the natural color is strong enough to make lighter dye colors look bad… so those are usually natural or black or dark grey.
Anyway, it does seem to be white… or at least a pretty light grey. We should find out more soon.
From what I remember, the white dye particles were too large to fit inside the etched surface you get with aluminum which is why we never see white anodization. Anyway, maybe they figured out a way to do it.
White anodization is definitely possible.
I have a white Emisar D4 that is quite nice. It has a grainy surface though. Not sure what the surface texture is on the white FW3A.
Is that other one white? I didn’t think you could do white anodization. I though it was a light silver that looked a bit whitish due to the camera.
If I understand correctly, white ano is made the same way as silver ano, or virtually any other color except “natural” — by adding dye. Natural ano is without dye, silver can technically be done without except it’s extremely thin, and the common type-II colors (including silver) just use different colors of dye.
With type-III ano, the natural color is strong enough to make lighter dye colors look bad… so those are usually natural or black or dark grey.
Anyway, it does seem to be white… or at least a pretty light grey. We should find out more soon.
From what I remember, the white dye particles were too large to fit inside the etched surface you get with aluminum which is why we never see white anodization. Anyway, maybe they figured out a way to do it.
White anodization is definitely possible.
I have a white Emisar D4 that is quite nice. It has a grainy surface though. Not sure what the surface texture is on the white FW3A.
I think on the Emisar products they might acid etch the surface, add the white dye then seal it. I’m not sure. The grainy surface is a key that they are doing something unique. It may not be true anodization like we see with other colors, though. Here’s an article on why there’s no white.
I wonder if we can get Lumintop to comment on the white finish.
—
Texas Ace Lumen Tube calibrated with Maukka lights
People need to stop comparing to 219B, it’s too far under the BBL to make a good comparison for 99% of LEDs
Exactly. Many people prefer light with a negative Duv, but, objectively speaking, negative and positive Duv are equally deviant from the reference standard. (Of course, there is nothing sacred about the BBL, but it does represent the light, both natural and artificial, in which humans evolved and adapted.)
As a (subjective) aside, I see little or no green in the high CRISST 20’s (of unknown bin) in my Emisar D4S, even at low levels, although I accept that, objectively, they are above BBL. And when I light up the ship half-model above my desk, which has blues, reds, and wood tones, the SST’s are significantly richer in color than the XP-L HI 3D’s in my FW3A.
An interesting question: why do humans prefer magenta light over green?
Different body colours are perfect to distinguish between different led types…
Will the code also work for those lights? If so, I will wait for them and order once, they are available…
Once you have the “Army Green” one next to a bronze colored flashlight does the green become more apparent. But definitely not your usual medium green. I’d call it more of a Greenish Bronze, or “Olive Drab Metallic”. The Zebralight is meant to be Olive Drab, but you can see there’s comparatively more of a bronze-green in the FW3A.
For those of you discussing how the white is done, I assume it's just the same as Lumintop's white Tool AA 2.0. So clearly they're already doing white coating, whether that's a powdercoat or anodization or what I have no idea.
—
EDC Rotation: ZL SC62 | Jaxman E2L XP-G2 5A | Purple S2+ XPL-HI U6-3A | D4 w/ Luxeon V | RRT-01 EagTac D25C Ti | DQG Slim AA Ti | UF-T1 by CRX | Olight S1 | Klarus Mini One Ti L6 XHP70.2 P2 4000K FET+7135 | Jaxman M8 | MF02 | Jaxman Z1 CULNM1.TG | Blue S2+ w/ ML Special In-progress: Supfire M6 3xXHP50.2 Others: Nitecore EC23 | Nebo Twyst | Streamlight ProTac 1AA | TerraLux LightStar 100
For those of you discussing how the white is done, I assume it’s just the same as Lumintop’s white Tool AA 2.0. So clearly they’re already doing white coating, whether that’s a powdercoat or anodization or what I have no idea.
Definitely not powder coating.
Someone with the white Tool AA said the threads were conductive. Typically, anodizing is not conductive so this tells me Lumintop (technically the company that does their anodizing) is doing something unique to get this color. I’m curious to know how it’s achieved, but no big deal. I don’t want to go too off topic.
—
Texas Ace Lumen Tube calibrated with Maukka lights
Isn’t that why we are here
I heard that to get a white anodising (this is the unicorn in anodising) a special ceramic coating is used. It should be harder than hard anodising, but it does not seal of the aluminium fully. Maybe this is why the threads were conductive.
I am still checking to cancel the SST20 if the 219C comes back up, but it doesn't seem to want to come back. I will probably end up modding it if it is too green.
New Tool looks great, but it is not pure white and the anodization is matte/rough
Same as the silver/white M43, IRRC it has to do with the particle size of the anodizing powder varying between the different colors. It catches dirt extremely quick and is a pita to get it clean. But looks great while new, almost like a sandblasted finish.
I like the plum color, would want even a bit more red/darkness added to give it some depth. And maybe marmorize it with a little bit black.
I have a white Emisar D4 that is quite nice. It has a grainy surface though. Not sure what the surface texture is on the white FW3A.
I think on the Emisar products they might acid etch the surface, add the white dye then seal it. I’m not sure. The grainy surface is a key that they are doing something unique. It may not be true anodization like we see with other colors, though. Here’s an article on why there’s no white.
I wonder if we can get Lumintop to comment on the white finish.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links.
Exactly. Many people prefer light with a negative Duv, but, objectively speaking, negative and positive Duv are equally deviant from the reference standard. (Of course, there is nothing sacred about the BBL, but it does represent the light, both natural and artificial, in which humans evolved and adapted.)
As a (subjective) aside, I see little or no green in the high CRI SST 20’s (of unknown bin) in my Emisar D4S, even at low levels, although I accept that, objectively, they are above BBL. And when I light up the ship half-model above my desk, which has blues, reds, and wood tones, the SST’s are significantly richer in color than the XP-L HI 3D’s in my FW3A.
An interesting question: why do humans prefer magenta light over green?
I like the burgundy / maroon one on the left. The metallic purple 2nd from left looks a bit richer, less “lilac” than the 2nd from right.
Teal looks pretty nice too.
Original: I like the 3rd one best here, the pinkish purple.
Gotta go with the second one here, a darker purple. I like all of the colors though.
Gotta go with the second one here too, the darker more vivid magenta. The wine color on the left is nice, too.
I don’t know what we’ll actually get, but I’m liking these darker and more vivid purples people made.
I just love colorful lights! What about orange or to be different a neon type yellow? I’d LEGO a blue and yellow together for sure!
Different body colours are perfect to distinguish between different led types…
Will the code also work for those lights? If so, I will wait for them and order once, they are available…
ToyKeeper posted:…………. Flying Luminosity posted:… xevious posted:
Toykeeper wrote:
I don’t know what we’ll actually get, but I’m liking these darker and more vivid purples people made.
…
teacher wrote:
The burning question is……. which one is closest to the ‘Gold Standard’???
.
Barney Purple
But, in the final analysis (as much as possible with LT); ToyKeeper (IMO) should have the say so as to what Purple to use.
. 
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
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Don’t watch with kids around lol
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Pick any purple shade you want .. just give me THIS one!
!
!
The TK Purple one is a given… I hope.
I like the Blue too. But the more I look at that Army Green/Dark Olive the more I like it.
I would be most happy if in addition to the FW3A-TK they did both the Blue & the Army Green.
. Why not, it will just be more sales. 
But… it ain’t my call. Time will tell…..
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$
Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart
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Any news about the LH351D version?
Yep let TK decide which shade to go with, then I’ll buy one for my old girl
Once you have the “Army Green” one next to a bronze colored flashlight does the green become more apparent. But definitely not your usual medium green. I’d call it more of a Greenish Bronze, or “Olive Drab Metallic”. The Zebralight is meant to be Olive Drab, but you can see there’s comparatively more of a bronze-green in the FW3A.
Yeah… whatever it’s called, I really like the FW3A ‘Army Green’.
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$
Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart
Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help??? TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal
Only 1 thing could make the ‘green’ better … if it was absolutely FLAT matte and grippy, like a cerakote!
MMM MMM good!
For those of you discussing how the white is done, I assume it's just the same as Lumintop's white Tool AA 2.0. So clearly they're already doing white coating, whether that's a powdercoat or anodization or what I have no idea.
EDC Rotation: ZL SC62 | Jaxman E2L XP-G2 5A | Purple S2+ XPL-HI U6-3A | D4 w/ Luxeon V | RRT-01
EagTac D25C Ti | DQG Slim AA Ti | UF-T1 by CRX | Olight S1 | Klarus Mini One Ti
L6 XHP70.2 P2 4000K FET+7135 | Jaxman M8 | MF02 | Jaxman Z1 CULNM1.TG | Blue S2+ w/ ML Special
In-progress: Supfire M6 3xXHP50.2
Others: Nitecore EC23 | Nebo Twyst | Streamlight ProTac 1AA | TerraLux LightStar 100
Definitely not powder coating.
Someone with the white Tool AA said the threads were conductive. Typically, anodizing is not conductive so this tells me Lumintop (technically the company that does their anodizing) is doing something unique to get this color. I’m curious to know how it’s achieved, but no big deal. I don’t want to go too off topic.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links.
TK,
Has it been determined that the Samsung L351DH emitter is not going to happen for this light?
Edit* LH351D
stupid keypad!@#$
Nothing has been determined about LH351D.
Isn’t that why we are here
I heard that to get a white anodising (this is the unicorn in anodising) a special ceramic coating is used. It should be harder than hard anodising, but it does not seal of the aluminium fully. Maybe this is why the threads were conductive.
Will the Copper FW3A come with the SST-20 at some point?
I believe I read about a month. I just hope it has high bin (no green) and latest Anduril. That would make me buy a second FW3A.
I am still checking to cancel the SST20 if the 219C comes back up, but it doesn't seem to want to come back. I will probably end up modding it if it is too green.
New Tool looks great, but it is not pure white and the anodization is matte/rough
https://www.instagram.com/edcthings/
Fixed that.
Same as the silver/white M43, IRRC it has to do with the particle size of the anodizing powder varying between the different colors. It catches dirt extremely quick and is a pita to get it clean. But looks great while new, almost like a sandblasted finish.
Xiaomi Powerbank 3 Pro Review USB power meter/tester thread
This tool’s finish reminds me the former FW3A bead blasted by Fritz.
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