The FW3A a TLF BLF special elegant triple powerfull flashlight

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stephenk
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One please.

fuzun
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Can you make a quick summary about differences between this and Jaxman E2L. I am waiting nichia version of the latter but I am not sure now.

A turkey would rule Turkey better.

The Miller
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Yes will update the list later Wink

Host or without LEDs mean deviation from the rest, complexity.
Probably even higher cost for not making one inline with the rest.
We know how hard it can be to get hosts from not that big companies who suffer less when not making a complete light, even the likes of Jaxman are not keen for it.
As with the Q8 and GT we aim for a complete light with unique features
Swapping LEDs is for owners for as said, the individual taste of each is very hard to take into account for a larger production while ideal to furfil when reflowing oneself.

So for the grpupbiy LEDs in a nice average in terms of all the tints available seem best.

zak.wilson
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fuzun wrote:
Can you make a quick summary about differences between this and Jaxman E2L. I am waiting nichia version of the latter but I am not sure now.

The driver, emitters and switch are the most significant differences.

The FW3A uses a FET driver with regulated channels for the lower modes. The highest modes are unregulated with a FET driver; the emitters get as much current as their forward voltage and the battery’s internal resistance will allow. With some LEDs, this can be quite a lot (15A or more). The E2L uses linear regulators on all modes and limits current to about 2.8A on max.

The FW3A uses the XP-G3 emitter, which is more efficient than the XP-G2 used in the E2L and requires less voltage. Combined with a FET driver, requiring less voltage means it will use more current on max, generating much more light, at least until it overheats and thermal throttles.

The E2L uses a mechanical switch that interrupts current from the battery, while the FW3A uses an electronic switch that sends a signal to the driver. An E-switch has some advantages:

  • It’s shorter. A mechanical switch adds about 20mm to the length.
  • It’s more reliable in a high-current application. I’ve burned out a few switches building FET triples.
  • It has less resistance, making the light brighter in a direct-drive application like this one.
  • It’s possible to have shortcuts from off to several different modes by different actions like short-press, long-press, double-click. It’s common to have shortcuts to high, low and last-used.

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liquidretro
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Put me on the list for 1. I would prefer a high CRI version but for this price I can’t complain.

moridin
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I’m in for one!

The Miller
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Wow nice post!
Adding just looks and Narsil with a lot of options as other notable differences.

zak.wilson wrote:
fuzun wrote:
Can you make a quick summary about differences between this and Jaxman E2L. I am waiting nichia version of the latter but I am not sure now.

The driver, emitters and switch are the most significant differences.

The FW3A uses a FET driver with regulated channels for the lower modes. The highest modes are unregulated with a FET driver; the emitters get as much current as their forward voltage and the battery’s internal resistance will allow. With some LEDs, this can be quite a lot (15A or more). The E2L uses linear regulators on all modes and limits current to about 2.8A on max.

The FW3A uses the XP-G3 emitter, which is more efficient than the XP-G2 used in the E2L and requires less voltage. Combined with a FET driver, requiring less voltage means it will use more current on max, generating much more light, at least until it overheats and thermal throttles.

The E2L uses a mechanical switch that interrupts current from the battery, while the FW3A uses an electronic switch that sends a signal to the driver. An E-switch has some advantages:

  • It’s shorter. A mechanical switch adds about 20mm to the length.
  • It’s more reliable in a high-current application. I’ve burned out a few switches building FET triples.
  • It has less resistance, making the light brighter in a direct-drive application like this one.
  • It’s possible to have shortcuts from off to several different modes by different actions like short-press, long-press, double-click. It’s common to have shortcuts to high, low and last-used.
cabfrank
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I haven’t even paid for the Q8 yet, and now this? Why are you doing this to me?
Of course I am interested.

fuzun
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zak.wilson wrote:
fuzun wrote:
Can you make a quick summary about differences between this and Jaxman E2L. I am waiting nichia version of the latter but I am not sure now.

The driver, emitters and switch are the most significant differences.

The FW3A uses a FET driver with regulated channels for the lower modes. The highest modes are unregulated with a FET driver; the emitters get as much current as their forward voltage and the battery’s internal resistance will allow. With some LEDs, this can be quite a lot (15A or more). The E2L uses linear regulators on all modes and limits current to about 2.8A on max.

The FW3A uses the XP-G3 emitter, which is more efficient than the XP-G2 used in the E2L and requires less voltage. Combined with a FET driver, requiring less voltage means it will use more current on max, generating much more light, at least until it overheats and thermal throttles.

The E2L uses a mechanical switch that interrupts current from the battery, while the FW3A uses an electronic switch that sends a signal to the driver. An E-switch has some advantages:

  • It’s shorter. A mechanical switch adds about 20mm to the length.
  • It’s more reliable in a high-current application. I’ve burned out a few switches building FET triples.
  • It has less resistance, making the light brighter in a direct-drive application like this one.
  • It’s possible to have shortcuts from off to several different modes by different actions like short-press, long-press, double-click. It’s common to have shortcuts to high, low and last-used.

Thank you. Very nice message.
—-
Is XP-G3 used in this light high cri version? (90+)

If Xp-g3 yields better results than 219c, this will be a very good light.

A turkey would rule Turkey better.

-Rick-
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What a nice surprise! Please add me to the list Smile

The Imp
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I’m in for 1

Lightbringer
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Are these being built to order, or in bulk?

If the former, would there be any way to not have the battery-tube thinned down like that, but be the same diameter as the 2 “collars”? (Basically, just skip that one step in machining-down the tube.)

Gawd, I’d love to have a straight-through light like that. Basically an overgrown BLF348… Big Smile

09 F9 11 02 9D 74 E3 5B D8 41 56 C5 63 56 88 C0

fuzun
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And what do you mean by nw? According to the specs. pdf it can be 4000-5000 kelvin. Hope it is not 5000 :/

A turkey would rule Turkey better.

zak.wilson
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fuzun wrote:
And what do you mean by nw? According to the specs. pdf it can be 4000-5000 kelvin. Hope it is not 5000 :/

In the discussion we’re having about this light on reddit, fritz15 asked for votes about users’ preference for the emitter. The XP-G3 option, and indeed the current planned emitter is 5000K and 70 CRI (not sure if that’s specified or just typical). That option has no votes at the moment, while the other option, a 4000K Nichia 219C (90 CRI) has 9 votes.

My own preference would probably lean toward a 5000K 219C, but there are often group buys for emitters here and I have a soldering iron.

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fritz15
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Hi, so far we are set on the XP-G3 unfortunately. Details on the exact LED will follow.

KiwiKane
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After a long hiatus from Flashlights it is great to see this project. A ground up, truly custom built budget light. Thanks everyone who is a part of this project. Size of this light seems so nice, please put me on the interested list Smile

Mr.Scott
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1 please

PrinceValorum
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In for one!

keengeorge
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G'Day The Miller & fritz15, smile

 

Please put me down for 2 of FW3A flashlights. wink

 

Thank you Very Much,

Best Regards,

George

srs2000
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I’m up for one.

J-Dub74
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Fritz…man that is a nice piece of work right there. Thumbs Up

Miller…cut it out man! This isn’t in the budget!

Team…great work.

Please put me in for one. FacepalmThumbs Up

ImA4Wheelr
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Oh My!  With a negative power feeding to the LED's via the host, one could use DTP with emitters that don't have dedicated thermal pads.  This light's design will open up some nice possibilities. Smile

EDIT: Haven't decided if I will join this GB due to the clear finish, but I certainly wish the best on the endeavor.  Very sweet light this will be for sure.

 

Gerrh
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I'll take one.  Wow pretty!

slow2go
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Please put me in for one.

Thanks
Slow

jonxxn
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One for me please

knightstalker
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I’m in for two, please.

zachary6227
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I want one, what’s a good battery brand for this light?

korpzgrinda
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May I please be added to the interest list? Thank you!

zak.wilson
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zachary6227 wrote:
I want one, what’s a good battery brand for this light?

This is a very high current light. An 18650 rated for 20A or more is a good idea. Examples include the Samsung 25R, LG HG2 and Sony VTC6.

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Tom E
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NarsilM is com'n along pretty good now. 2 and 3 output channels can be configured with compile time settings. Been testing it on a triple channel board.

Think'n it would be perfect for this light - same UI, same manual as for the BLF Q8, and should also work for the BLF GT.

NarsilM is for Narsil Multi-channel.

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