FW3A, a TLF/BLF EDC flashlight - SST-20 available, coupon codes public

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trakcon
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Igor wrote:
I had already read it.

Ok. No problem. I just wanted to help in case you hadn’t.
Igor
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I appreciate the help, thanks!

The darkness is afraid of us.
Flashlights are cheaper than therapy.

Scallywag
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I think the moonlight on the FW3A is fine. And actually the one on my D4 is fine too, I can use them at night without scarring my retinas or waking my wife, and I have blackout curtains. What does surprise me is those two lights have lower moonlight than many of my other lights, even my Moonlight Specials (1+7 AMC7135, which use 1x7135 for the moonlight). Does anyone know why that is? Just a curiosity.

Anyway, my ZL, my D4, FW3A, and my L6 all do moonlights low enough to stare directly at the emitter. My Jetbeam will do moonlights so low that I have to overexpose the ZL moonlight just to capture the RRT-01's output in the same image.

EDC Rotation: ZL SC62 | Jaxman E2L XP-G2 5A | Purple S2+ XPL-HI U6-3A | D4 w/ Luxeon V | RRT-01 
EagTac D25C Ti | DQG Slim AA Ti | UF-T1 by CRX | Olight S1 | Klarus Mini One Ti
L6 XHP70.2 P2 4000K FET+7135 | Jaxman M8 | MF02 | Jaxman Z1 CULNM1.TG | Blue S2+ w/ ML Special
In-progress: Supfire M6 3xXHP50.2 
Others: Nitecore EC23 | Nebo Twyst | Streamlight ProTac 1AA | TerraLux LightStar 100

Bob_McBob
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FWIW I measured 0.15 lumens with the XP-L HI 3D, and 0.1 lumens with 219B sw45k.

Tixx
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RapidLux wrote:

FW3A can be configured as low as 0.3 lm. Good enough for 99 % of us.

How to I get it this low? Since you said configure I believe there is something I can change about it to get it lower.

patmurris
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Scallywag wrote:
…What does surprise me is those two lights have lower moonlight than many of my other lights, even my Moonlight Specials (1+7 AMC7135, which use 1×7135 for the moonlight). Does anyone know why that is? Just a curiosity.

My understanding is that the single 7135 350mA chip output gets PWM’d. Meaning its output is sliced on/off/on/off… in a way the led(s) only emits lights 50% or 30% or 1% – or whatever, of the time at a very fast rate so your eye does not see the blinking.

PWM – Pulse Width Modulation, is widely used to modulate things like light output, but on some lights/drivers the frequency is low enough it can be detected by the eye – and become annoying for some people.

***

Copper FW3A XPL HI ordered! Big Smile

RapidLux
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Tixx wrote:
RapidLux wrote:

FW3A can be configured as low as 0.3 lm. Good enough for 99 % of us.

How to I get it this low? Since you said configure I believe there is something I can change about it to get it lower.

Level / lm table http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1268484#comment-1268484

Level 1 -> 0.3 lm

ToyKeeper
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The output of level 1/150 is almost entirely dependent on the hardware itself. It changes with emitter type, battery voltage, and a fair amount of per-light randomness. The range is generally about 0.05 to 0.30 lm though.

cabfrank
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Gotta love that per-light randomness. Smile

iamlucky13
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Scallywag wrote:
What does surprise me is those two lights have lower moonlight than many of my other lights, even my Moonlight Specials (1+7 AMC7135, which use 1×7135 for the moonlight). Does anyone know why that is? Just a curiosity.

The D4 and FW3A also both only use 1×7135 for the moonlight.

However, the per light randomness is not entirely random. One known factor is that some 7135 chips do not work well if both the PWM frequency is high and the duty cycle is low.

The FW3A was requested specifically to use a known good 7135. As far as I understand it (a lot of this information is scattered across numerous threads that predate my time here, so I may be partially mistaken), Richard has not been able to consistently source those chips, so he tweaks the firmware on drivers he sells like the Moonlight special to match what the chips he gets can manage as their lowest stable output.

lmcmann
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Sooooooooooooo, where can I order a programming clip for my precious? I’m not opposed to making one, but I’m getting lazy in my advanced age. I did try searching and found people mentioning ‘just order one’, but I couldn’t find where.

Also, should we start a list for TK’s special edition? I know I want a couple of purples. Someone tossed out 100 as a number to be made. I highly doubt that will be enough. My worry is that I’m on a trip where I only have internet every few days at best for another 3 weeks. If they come up and sell out before I can order one, I’m going to be seriously bummed.

acab
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I got my standard SOIC8 clip off Aliexpress, was only 2 or 3 bucks. There are different clips out there- mine is black. Have seen blue ones as well. Also check what cables you would like or need.
Easiest way of hooking up are Dupont cables F-F.

This clip should work for any standard ATTINY mcu

oweban
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You want a USBASP adapter, and a SOIC/SOIC8 clip – I bought mine all from AliExpress, but you can get them all over the place:

Happy to help with how it wires up; there’s threads on it but I’m on mobile atm; slow to find.

oweban
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https://imgur.com/a/4u0eRV0

Quick photos of my clip and USBASP.

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oweban wrote:
https://imgur.com/a/4u0eRV0

Quick photos of my clip and USBASP.

Must be something wrong with my eyes.

You are a flashaholic if you are forced to come out of the closet, to make room for more flashlights.

oweban
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?

I know it’s poorly lit and not on a good camera; was just trying to get a quick image done Smile

justanotherguy
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Henk4U2 wrote:
oweban wrote:
https://imgur.com/a/4u0eRV0

Quick photos of my clip and USBASP.

Must be something wrong with my eyes. !

More pics of the blue and orange hands free device!

anyone in NE ILLinois into get togethers?

acab
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that is a great picture, especially the PIN1 sticker. I should also do something like that.

If you have a Raspberry Pi, avrdude is really convenient to use on raspbian (not that other OSs would be difficult).

oweban
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justanotherguy wrote:
Henk4U2 wrote:
oweban wrote:
https://imgur.com/a/4u0eRV0

Quick photos of my clip and USBASP.

Must be something wrong with my eyes. !

More pics of the blue and orange hands free device!


eBay/AliExpress for something like “6 arm helping hands” – got it a looong time ago now. I think it’s more for RC drones/copters, but having 6 arms is brilliant for holding everything down when working on it.
lmcmann
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Wow, thanks! That helps a lot.

ToyKeeper
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iamlucky13 wrote:
Scallywag wrote:
What does surprise me is those two lights have lower moonlight than many of my other lights, even my Moonlight Specials (1+7 AMC7135, which use 1×7135 for the moonlight). Does anyone know why that is? Just a curiosity.

The D4 and FW3A also both only use 1×7135 for the moonlight.

However, the per light randomness is not entirely random. One known factor is that some 7135 chips do not work well if both the PWM frequency is high and the duty cycle is low.

The FW3A was requested specifically to use a known good 7135. As far as I understand it (a lot of this information is scattered across numerous threads that predate my time here, so I may be partially mistaken), Richard has not been able to consistently source those chips, so he tweaks the firmware on drivers he sells like the Moonlight special to match what the chips he gets can manage as their lowest stable output.

There are also some differences in firmware. Most moonlight-special drivers run something Bistro-like on tiny25 or tiny13, and they run moon mode at 13 to 17 kHz. This makes the code smaller and simpler, which is good… but it’s also extra-sensitive to changes in the underlying hardware. What’s bright on one light may not light up at all on another.

I did it differently in Anduril though. It underclocks the MCU at low modes, so moon runs at 4 kHz instead of 16 kHz. With each pulse being 4X as long, it varies far less with different hardware, different battery voltages, and different LED types. The slower speed would be annoying at higher brightness levels, but down at moon mode it’s not really visible or audible. And as a bonus, it also makes moon mode use a fraction as much power, so it can run at that level for about 3X as long.

So… less finicky about hardware changes and uses less power, but requires more complicated code.

ToyKeeper
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lmcmann wrote:
Sooooooooooooo, where can I order a programming clip for my precious?

In addition to the answers given already, there are also relevant links in the firmware repository’s “README” file. Smile

Tixx
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RapidLux wrote:
Tixx wrote:
RapidLux wrote:

FW3A can be configured as low as 0.3 lm. Good enough for 99 % of us.

How to I get it this low? Since you said configure I believe there is something I can change about it to get it lower.

Level / lm table http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1268484#comment-1268484

Level 1 -> 0.3 lm

Ok, so nothing to configure. Just is what it is. Was hoping to go a little lower. They seem brighter than that compared to a bunch of other moonlight lights I have.

WalkIntoTheLight
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Quote:
Quote:
Level 1 -> 0.3 lm

Ok, so nothing to configure. Just is what it is. Was hoping to go a little lower. They seem brighter than that compared to a bunch of other moonlight lights I have.

0.3 lumens is definitely on the bright side for a good moonlight mode. However, I don’t find mine that bright, maybe 0.15 or 0.2 at most. I have the XPL HI 7A version, so perhaps that makes some difference. It’s still a little bright for my preference, but it’s usable.

Igor
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Mine has just arrived, and it’s also the 7A. I’m surprised by the moonlight, it’s on par with my SC64w HI. The switch, on the other hand, too soft… the weak spot of the flashlight. But so far I like it overall!

The darkness is afraid of us.
Flashlights are cheaper than therapy.

Gunga
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That’s awesome for moon modes Toy keeper. Always amazing!

Igor
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Luckily, mine came with Carclo lens.

The darkness is afraid of us.
Flashlights are cheaper than therapy.

Igor
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The SC64w HI has a higher moonlight than Zebralight older 18650 lights (the AA and CR123 still have extremely low moonlights). But the FW3A surprised me and is more pleasant, because it’s warmer and floodier, being gentle on the night adapted eyes.

The darkness is afraid of us.
Flashlights are cheaper than therapy.

maba
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Today I received the version 7A.
I’ve had a few FW3A but this one has the worst switch – it is quieter, too soft and can not be press it on the edge Facepalm

acab
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Has someone done the comparison between the first batch and the current light? Maybe there was a change in rubber, or how the switch operates?

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