FW3A, a TLF/BLF EDC flashlight - SST-20 available, coupon codes public

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raccoon city
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cabfrank wrote:
DBSAR wrote:
teacher wrote:

Hey Den, no worries… …. “brain farts” happen to the best of us from time to time. Thumbs Up . Big Smile

It sucks getting older, and letting life's stress drain us.
Better than the alternative, no? Wink

Man, I hope I get old!

With my classmate recently dying, due to cancer, I'm realizing that I might not be as lucky as I once thought I would be.

I used to always think I would live to be 90, but there's no guarantees in life.

Sorry for being a downer.  :X

tatasal
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sb56637 wrote:
My FW3A just arrived! This. Thing. Is. AMAZING!!! Andúril is insanely cool. Just to think that the first BLF custom lights years ago had the sole purpose of eliminating blinky modes… and now one of the main attractions of Andúril is its incredibly entertaining plethora of (well hidden) blinky modes. I love it. Thanks so much to everyone for sticking with this project with all of its ups and downs. We and TLF have something to be truly proud of!
Thumbs Up Beer
raccoon city
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@sb:  Did you order it when it was first available?

Or is shipping to your location extra slow?

sb56637
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raccoon city wrote:

@sb:  Did you order it when it was first available?


Or is shipping to your location extra slow?

It’s a bad combination of rather slow shipping + insanely slow customs. But in the end it always arrives, and I come into the project thread in position #44654 and post about how great it is. Silly
Talk about preaching to the choir. Wink

Budget Light Forum ...where Frugal meets with Flashlight!

teacher
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cabfrank wrote:
DBSAR wrote:
teacher wrote:
Hey Den, no worries…
…. “brain farts” happen to the best of us from time to time. Thumbs Up . Big Smile
It sucks getting older, and letting life’s stress drain us.
Better than the alternative, no? Wink
Yep, it does have it’s drawbacks DBSAR. Thumbs Up . Tired

It most definitely beats the the alternative cabfrank!! Big Smile . Beer

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

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cabfrank
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Yes sir, and seriously, although there are disadvantages, don’t you guys find it easier to appreciate things, just simple things? I hope so. I know I do.

teacher
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Yep… I do to. Smile

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

       Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$  

         Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart  

      Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help???            TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal 

 

                                             

FPV
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I would like to use my code and get the new optic with a glass lens packed in the shipment. So I just order, pay and then email Neal?

Thanks.

maba
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trakcon wrote:
Excellent! What did you make it out of?

I had a plastic foldable clothes hanger, it was perfect Big Smile
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FPV wrote:
I would like to use my code and get the new optic with a glass lens packed in the shipment. So I just order, pay and then email Neal?

Thanks.


Is there a way to add a message into the order itself? I can’t remember.
trakcon
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maba wrote:
trakcon wrote:
Excellent! What did you make it out of?
I had a plastic foldable clothes hanger, it was perfect Big Smile

Nice. Hopefully I won’t have to mess with the switches on my incoming FW3A’s, but I want to have a plan. Did you glue the new nubbin in place?

maba
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trakcon wrote:
Did you glue the new nubbin in place?

No, he should not go out Silly

I`m now waiting for SST20. I’ve had a CW, NW and WW Big Smile

Igor
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I need to make the switch stiffer to activate, but I don’t know how…

The darkness is afraid of us.
Flashlights are cheaper than therapy.

Johm
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Igor wrote:
I need to make the switch stiffer to activate, but I don’t know how…

What if you remove the ‘nubbin’?

Does that make it reliably stiffer / harder to activate?
Or just stiffer / harder?

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Johm wrote:
Igor wrote:
I need to make the switch stiffer to activate, but I don’t know how…

What if you remove the ‘nubbin’?

Does that make it reliably stiffer / harder to activate?
Or just stiffer / harder?

Remove the metal part of the switch. If that’s still too easy. Remove the nubbin’. Doing this has renewed my relationship with the light. Accidental activation and lockout woes almost divorced us. There’s hope for happily ever after now.

pennzy
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Can the fast clicks still be accomplished with the nubbin and metal part removed?

Igor
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You mean remove the metal button?

Also I’ve heard the light doesn’t work without the nubbin.

I’ll try.

Update: indeed it works, I just wonder about the longevity of the rubber. Also if waterproofness is impacted. And it doesn’t look so good.

The darkness is afraid of us.
Flashlights are cheaper than therapy.

JasonWW
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Igor wrote:
I need to make the switch stiffer to activate, but I don’t know how…

We just gave a bunch of ideas for this in the FW3A Troubleshooting thread. Start here and read down the posts.

BTW, the switch won’t work at all without the nubbin.

Igor
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pennzy wrote:
Can the fast clicks still be accomplished with the nubbin and metal part removed?

They can, but with the nubbin it’s more precise.

The darkness is afraid of us.
Flashlights are cheaper than therapy.

Igor
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JasonWW wrote:
Igor wrote:
I need to make the switch stiffer to activate, but I don’t know how…

We just gave a bunch of ideas for this in the FW3A Troubleshooting thread. Start here and read down the posts.

BTW, the switch won’t work at all without the nubbin.

I’ve read all the troubleshooting thread but there’s nothing conclusive about the switch yet.

Also I tried without the nubbin and the switch works, but only when pressed right in the center and with a little more force than normal.

The darkness is afraid of us.
Flashlights are cheaper than therapy.

JaredM
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The waterproofness is not effected by removing the metal switch cover. Also, the nubbin (or substitute) is required on most samples for operation when the metal cover is still installed, but once removed, it is unnecessary.

Yes. It is not as pretty looking without the metal cover, but for me, function comes first every time. I’ve never had a metal switch that I’ve liked. I hoped that the FW3A would change this, but it hasn’t.

I’ll be posting some other pics and solutions for the switch and nubbin substitution for those that care in the mod thread. But that’ll be this evening. Spoiler: replace the nubbin with a piece of 18awg Silicon wire insulation (length of your choice between ~1-2mm) and if available use a tiny tiny (that’s a very specific size lol) o-ring around the nubbin seat in the rubber switch boot. Together these provide a larger, softer contact surface to the diaphragm switch, increasing the required pressure to ‘click’ and being much more resistant to accidental activation.

I’m even stirring up some thoughts on what to do with this gap between the rubber boot and tailcap aperture.. we’ll see if that gets anywhere

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pennzy wrote:
Can the fast clicks still be accomplished with the nubbin and metal part removed?

Yes. But without the nubbin, more central/focused force is needed. My personal light has a substitute (~1/2 height — flush with the rubber around it) nubbin and to me it’s perfect. Removing the metal part naturally recesses the switch. I think it feels great with the chamfer the FW3A has in the tailcap.

JasonWW
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I guess the rubber is able to push down on the switch. It didn’t work on my early version. Maybe I didn’t push down hard enough.

I’ll try experimenting with some foam to make it stiffer.

pennzy
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I thought the metal part that was referenced was the internal part held in place by the tape, not the button. My mistake,

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WOW, thank you for suggesting removing the metal switch cover guys. This makes the switch waaayyy harder to accidentally press and against my better judgement I think I can safely carry this light without locking it out now.

Its not just that the actuation force is higher now either, the switch with just the rubber boot sits much lower in the tail and is more shrouded from accidental clicks.

With the nubbin removed the switch still works but is even stiffer and that takes it a bit too far in that direction IMO, especially for multi-click actions.

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JasonWW wrote:
Igor wrote:
I need to make the switch stiffer to activate, but I don’t know how...
We just gave a bunch of ideas for this in the FW3A Troubleshooting thread. Start "here":http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1515539#comment-1515539 and read down the posts. BTW, the switch won't work at all without the nubbin.

Thanks, might give some ideas a go and see if I can carry the damn thing.

FW3A is like my D4... Basically does every single thing right except for the one thing that makes it worse to carry than a dead-simple S2+.

I now have two beautiful lights that I can barely stand to carry and therefore rarely do.

EDC Rotation: ZL SC62 | Jaxman E2L XP-G2 5A | Purple S2+ XPL-HI U6-3A | D4 w/ Luxeon V | RRT-01 
EagTac D25C Ti | DQG Slim AA Ti | UF-T1 by CRX | Olight S1 | Klarus Mini One Ti
L6 XHP70.2 P2 4000K FET+7135 | Jaxman M8 | MF02 | Jaxman Z1 CULNM1.TG | Blue S2+ w/ ML Special
In-progress: Supfire M6 3xXHP50.2 
Others: Nitecore EC23 | Nebo Twyst | Streamlight ProTac 1AA | TerraLux LightStar 100

teacher
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Scallywag wrote:
I now have two beautiful lights that I can barely stand to carry and therefore rarely do.
You must somehow… adapt and overcome’. . Big Smile

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

       Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$  

         Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart  

      Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help???            TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal 

 

                                             

JaredM
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BurningPlayd0h wrote:
WOW, thank you for suggesting removing the metal switch cover guys. This makes the switch waaayyy harder to accidentally press and against my better judgement I think I can safely carry this light without locking it out now.

Its not just that the actuation force is higher now either, the switch with just the rubber boot sits much lower in the tail and is more shrouded from accidental clicks.

With the nubbin removed the switch still works but is even stiffer and that takes it a bit too far in that direction IMO, especially for multi-click actions.

This is exactly my experience. When pushing the light into my jean pocket (clipping in on) I’d use the ball/base of my hand to ‘seat’ it. This would result in switch activation 80% of the time if I wasn’t consciously avoiding it. All lockout solutions just became too much of a hassle to be practical. Like others have said, an A6/S2+ or other reverse clicky lights would win out due to this. I use my light probably 10-40 times a day for usually just seconds or minutes at a time. So ingress/egress and switch ergo / reliability is really a HUGE factor in a lights design.

This light still needs a deep carry clip and I need to get around to making that extended bezel for the single emitter/reflector. But right now I’m excited and relieved that two years of waiting and anticipation wasn’t wasted.

ToyKeeper
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If it helps, the FW3A is designed to be compatible with a standard rubber boot. It makes the button easier to use while wearing gloves, but also harder to press by accident.

You may have to crank down the tailcap extra-hard though, to make it work. Or possibly thin out the base of the boot a little to reduce how much it needs to be squeezed to fit.

tatasal
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Oh, with regards to how the color grey react to influences, try this out:

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