FW3A, a TLF/BLF EDC flashlight - SST-20 available, coupon codes public

13583 posts / 0 new
Last post
cayman
Offline
Last seen: 6 months 2 weeks ago
Joined: 06/29/2019 - 13:16
Posts: 78

For the users waiting/wanting to order the Nichia variant, they are apparently back in stock:

Until yesterday they were not available, now they can be added to the cart.

MascaratumB
MascaratumB's picture
Online
Last seen: 1 min 19 sec ago
Joined: 10/29/2016 - 12:12
Posts: 4694
Location: Portugal
Spiderlight wrote:
Is there a way to fix the squeaky switch?

I did this: http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1522289#comment-1522289

It solved my problem. The switch doesn’t make any noise now Thumbs Up

[REVIEWS] ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 /// AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// BRINYTE: T28 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// FIREFLIES: ROT66 GEN II /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LIVARNOLUX: 314791 /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 /// SKILHUNT: M150 /// SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 / TO50R / E19 /// XTAR: PB2 Charger ///

Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses: 1 / 2/// Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)

OL Contest 2019

GIVEAWAY: 1 / 2

Hobo
Offline
Last seen: 1 day 12 hours ago
Joined: 10/25/2015 - 07:23
Posts: 402
Location: Germany

Received my SST-20 FW3A today. Tint looks really good, I’ll change the optic to one with trits from azhu.
What I don’t like is the switch. It has less travel and is very easy to actuate. The switch of the first batch was on point for my taste. I compared them: It seems like the wall of the new switch housing is thicker on the tail side which makes the stainless steel button stick out less and gives it less travel. I didn’t spot any other differences. It’s way too easy to click for my taste.

8) Lube Threads Everyday 8)

Spiderlight
Offline
Last seen: 3 weeks 4 days ago
Joined: 12/24/2017 - 19:17
Posts: 100
Location: Germany
MascaratumB wrote:
Spiderlight wrote:
Is there a way to fix the squeaky switch?

I did this: http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1522289#comment-1522289

It solved my problem. The switch doesn’t make any noise now Thumbs Up


Oh, great thanks. I will take my apart too.
Firelight2
Firelight2's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 hours 55 min ago
Joined: 04/08/2011 - 15:17
Posts: 3850
Location: California
Hobo wrote:
Received my SST-20 FW3A today. Tint looks really good, I’ll change the optic to one with trits from azhu. What I don’t like is the switch. It has less travel and is very easy to actuate. The switch of the first batch was on point for my taste. I compared them: It seems like the wall of the new switch housing is thicker on the tail side which makes the stainless steel button stick out less and gives it less travel. I didn’t spot any other differences. It’s way too easy to click for my taste.

I concur.

Switch on the SST-20 version is way too easy to activate. Problem appears to be thicker material on the tailcap housing which reduces travel distance of the switch. This makes the switch much more sensitive and much more prone to accidental pocket activation.

To reduce the chance of accidental pocket activation in my SST-20 switch, I did the following:

  • Increased switch travel distance slightly – I took a small piece of relatively fine gauge solid core wire, stripped off the PVC insulation and then bent the wire into a “C” ring. I inserted this ring between the bottom of the tailcap and the top of the switch PCB. This had the effect of moving the switch PCB away from the housing about half a mm, and increased switch travel distance by the same.
  • I also added a piece of spring between the metal tailcap and the rubber boot. Not sure this helped much, but it did slightly increase spring tension on the metal boot.
  • Because of the wire C-ring, the tailcap closes to fully seated position about 1/2 a mm further out than the unmodified light. This increase in length is so small as to be almost unnoticeable even when the lights are held close together. However, it is enough that the o-ring used to keep the clip from turning was no longer doing its job. I replaced that o-ring with a slightly thicker one.

With these modifications, the SST-20 switch feels considerably better than stock, but still feels worse than the first-run FW3A’s switches.

Lumintop’s revised tailcap housing is definitely inferior to the original design. Hopefully, they will switch it back for the copper and Titanium run.

Firelight2
Firelight2's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 hours 55 min ago
Joined: 04/08/2011 - 15:17
Posts: 3850
Location: California

I just noticed Neal has Sapphire glass lenses for sale for the FW3A on his website.

Hobo
Offline
Last seen: 1 day 12 hours ago
Joined: 10/25/2015 - 07:23
Posts: 402
Location: Germany

Firelight2 wrote:
I concur.

Switch on the SST-20 version is way too easy to activate. Problem appears to be thicker material on the tailcap housing which reduces travel distance of the switch. This makes the switch much more sensitive and much more prone to accidental pocket activation.

To reduce the chance of accidental pocket activation in my SST-20 switch, I did the following:

  • Increased switch travel distance slightly – I took a small piece of relatively fine gauge solid core wire, stripped off the PVC insulation and then bent the wire into a “C” ring. I inserted this ring between the bottom of the tailcap and the top of the switch PCB. This had the effect of moving the switch PCB away from the housing about half a mm, and increased switch travel distance by the same.
  • I also added a piece of spring between the metal tailcap and the rubber boot. Not sure this helped much, but it did slightly increase spring tension on the metal boot.
  • Because of the wire C-ring, the tailcap closes to fully seated position about 1/2 a mm further out than the unmodified light. This increase in length is so small as to be almost unnoticeable even when the lights are held close together. However, it is enough that the o-ring used to keep the clip from turning was no longer doing its job. I replaced that o-ring with a slightly thicker one.

With these modifications, the SST-20 switch feels considerably better than stock, but still feels worse than the first-run FW3A’s switches.

Lumintop’s revised tailcap housing is definitely inferior to the original design. Hopefully, they will switch it back for the copper and Titanium run.

I ended up removing the “nubbin” for now. Should have the same effect as your method. A bit more travel and higher actuation force. Still not as satisfyingly clicky as the original one.

8) Lube Threads Everyday 8)

Firelight2
Firelight2's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 hours 55 min ago
Joined: 04/08/2011 - 15:17
Posts: 3850
Location: California

Oh yeah forgot about that.

I also replaced the nubbin with a shorter profile one, made from cutting up a piece of cured epoxy putty. I tried it without any nubbin, but the switch didn’t work at all.

MascaratumB
MascaratumB's picture
Online
Last seen: 1 min 19 sec ago
Joined: 10/29/2016 - 12:12
Posts: 4694
Location: Portugal
Spiderlight wrote:
MascaratumB wrote:
Spiderlight wrote:
Is there a way to fix the squeaky switch?

I did this: http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1522289#comment-1522289

It solved my problem. The switch doesn’t make any noise now Thumbs Up


Oh, great thanks. I will take my apart too.

Let us know if it worked for you too Thumbs Up

[REVIEWS] ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 /// AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// BRINYTE: T28 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// FIREFLIES: ROT66 GEN II /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LIVARNOLUX: 314791 /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 /// SKILHUNT: M150 /// SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 / TO50R / E19 /// XTAR: PB2 Charger ///

Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses: 1 / 2/// Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)

OL Contest 2019

GIVEAWAY: 1 / 2

Lund1660
Offline
Last seen: 11 hours 56 min ago
Joined: 08/28/2015 - 04:51
Posts: 446

Hey everyone, got a question, let’s say I want change the max temp for the light, once I set the temp that I want do I let the light go through all other menus or do I just turn the light off.

contactcr
Offline
Last seen: 5 hours 1 min ago
Joined: 05/19/2017 - 18:52
Posts: 2925
Location: US
Lund1660 wrote:
Hey everyone, got a question, let’s say I want change the max temp for the light, once I set the temp that I want do I let the light go through all other menus or do I just turn the light off.

Wait and it will go back to the current temp blink out and you can turn it off from there. (at least that’s what I do)

teacher
teacher's picture
Offline
Last seen: 7 months 3 weeks ago
Joined: 02/23/2016 - 19:04
Posts: 9596
Location: NE & SW Alabama

contactcr wrote:
Lund1660 wrote:
Hey everyone, got a question, let’s say I want change the max temp for the light, once I set the temp that I want do I let the light go through all other menus or do I just turn the light off.
Wait and it will go back to the current temp blink out and you can turn it off from there. (at least that’s what I do)
+1 …. This is what I do too.

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

       Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$  

         Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart  

      Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help???            TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal 

 

                                             

lumenzilla
lumenzilla's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 day 13 hours ago
Joined: 06/09/2015 - 04:18
Posts: 781
Location: DIY, Indonesia

I think I saw a thread made by TK about her initial impression of FW3Cu but I can’t find it again.
Any good people here can give me the link?

WalkIntoTheLight
Offline
Last seen: 2 months 1 day ago
Joined: 12/05/2015 - 10:26
Posts: 2153
Location: Canada
Firelight2 wrote:
Switch on the SST-20 version is way too easy to activate. Problem appears to be thicker material on the tailcap housing which reduces travel distance of the switch. This makes the switch much more sensitive and much more prone to accidental pocket activation.

Considering how easy the switch accidentally presses in the original XPL-HI version, this isn’t a step in the right direction. This is not a light meant for pocket carry, IMO. Unless you lock it out, but then it’s a PITA to use.

I originally thought “muggle mode” was kind of a dumb feature, since “muggles” won’t be buying this light anyway. But it makes sense, if you do choose to carry it in pocket.

nydude
Offline
Last seen: 1 day 3 hours ago
Joined: 08/29/2017 - 22:11
Posts: 242
Location: United States

are they doing titanium? would be interested in one.

nobody
Offline
Last seen: 1 week 1 day ago
Joined: 01/12/2019 - 04:58
Posts: 295
Location: In the dark

 

WalkIntoTheLight wrote:
Firelight2 wrote:
Switch on the SST-20 version is way too easy to activate. Problem appears to be thicker material on the tailcap housing which reduces travel distance of the switch. This makes the switch much more sensitive and much more prone to accidental pocket activation.
Considering how easy the switch accidentally presses in the original XPL-HI version, this isn't a step in the right direction. This is not a light meant for pocket carry, IMO. Unless you lock it out, but then it's a PITA to use. I originally thought "muggle mode" was kind of a dumb feature, since "muggles" won't be buying this light anyway. But it makes sense, if you do choose to carry it in pocket.

 

So far I have had no issues with it turning on in my pocket. I don’t clip it to my pocket but just carry it loose (no other items there).  I have a nichea from when they were first released. Not sure if it’s an original or tweaked switch. Reasonable travel and pressure to activate. A little gritty at times with an edge push. I might do the tape someone mentioned to get rid of the grit but really, I don’t really notice it unless I’m trying to notice it. 

specialk
Offline
Last seen: 43 min 27 sec ago
Joined: 12/05/2016 - 00:44
Posts: 156
Location: Canada Vancouver Island

Does anyone know the size of the o-ring for the fw3a?
Thanks SpecialK

WalkIntoTheLight
Offline
Last seen: 2 months 1 day ago
Joined: 12/05/2015 - 10:26
Posts: 2153
Location: Canada
nobody wrote:

So far I have had no issues with it turning on in my pocket. I don’t clip it to my pocket but just carry it loose (no other items there).

Maybe that’s the reason. I carried mine clipped in my pocket last night, for the first time. (I wanted a warm white light.) Activated 3 times by accident, within 1 hour when I was outside. Luckily I had it set to a low level, and it didn’t “press and hold”. Yuck, that’s way too easy. I’ve carried a Zebralight the same way for years, and never had an accidental activation.

Carrying it loosely might help. I might try that, but I’m not sure I trust it. Muggle mode seems like it cripples the light, and lock-out is not for my usage.

JasonWW
JasonWW's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 day 1 hour ago
Joined: 10/22/2016 - 11:41
Posts: 12379
Location: Houston Texas

specialk wrote:
Does anyone know the size of the o-ring for the fw3a?
Thanks SpecialK

20mm OD (outer diameter), but it can be 19 or 18 if that’s all you can find. It will stretch. 3/4” OD is fine.
Thickness is about 1.5mm or 1/16”. This means ID (inner diameter) is 17mm or 21/32”.

Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights

Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.

specialk
Offline
Last seen: 43 min 27 sec ago
Joined: 12/05/2016 - 00:44
Posts: 156
Location: Canada Vancouver Island

Thanks. I just found a rip in the original o ring and wanted to get a few spares for the future.

JasonWW
JasonWW's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 day 1 hour ago
Joined: 10/22/2016 - 11:41
Posts: 12379
Location: Houston Texas

specialk wrote:
Thanks. I just found a rip in the original o ring and wanted to get a few spares for the future.

There should be 2 spares in the box.

Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights

Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.

specialk
Offline
Last seen: 43 min 27 sec ago
Joined: 12/05/2016 - 00:44
Posts: 156
Location: Canada Vancouver Island
emarkd
emarkd's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 month 3 weeks ago
Joined: 04/14/2015 - 22:04
Posts: 1605
Location: Georgia, USA
nydude wrote:
are they doing titanium? would be interested in one.

It would seem so. There’s a couple of prototype photo floating around, one solid titanium and another titanium with a copper head/heatsink area. Nothing official has been confirmed though, that I’ve seen.

trakcon
trakcon's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 25 min ago
Joined: 01/23/2019 - 15:50
Posts: 247
emarkd wrote:
nydude wrote:
are they doing titanium? would be interested in one.

It would seem so. There’s a couple of prototype photo floating around, one solid titanium and another titanium with a copper head/heatsink area. Nothing official has been confirmed though, that I’ve seen.

Neal confirmed that TiCu is planned here: http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1517422#comment-1517422

Firelight2
Firelight2's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 hours 55 min ago
Joined: 04/08/2011 - 15:17
Posts: 3850
Location: California
emarkd wrote:
nydude wrote:
are they doing titanium? would be interested in one.

It would seem so. There’s a couple of prototype photo floating around, one solid titanium and another titanium with a copper head/heatsink area. Nothing official has been confirmed though, that I’ve seen.

The only photo of a titanium FW3A is titanium with copper head.

There aren’t any photos of an all titanium FW3A. I think you’re thinking of photos a couple people have made of modded polished aluminum FW3As with the anodizing stripped.

Tally-ho
Tally-ho's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 days 6 hours ago
Joined: 07/23/2011 - 04:15
Posts: 1312
Location: France

Pictures of the FW3 Ti+Cu and FW3 brass are here : http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1514003#comment-1514003

patmurris
patmurris's picture
Offline
Last seen: 7 hours 3 min ago
Joined: 12/22/2014 - 15:54
Posts: 1448
Location: Nice, France
Tally-ho wrote:
Pictures of the FW3 Ti+Cu and FW3 brass are here : http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1514003#comment-1514003

I didn’t realize the left one was brass – i thought it was the copper one.

So actual versions floating around are:

  • Anodized aluminum – original FW3A available in gray so far
  • Copper – can be ordered, unsure whether it ships yet
  • Brass – proto?
  • Titanium/Copper – proto?
  • SS – ?

Any confirmations on those?

nydude
Offline
Last seen: 1 day 3 hours ago
Joined: 08/29/2017 - 22:11
Posts: 242
Location: United States

got it cool thanks

Firelight2
Firelight2's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 hours 55 min ago
Joined: 04/08/2011 - 15:17
Posts: 3850
Location: California

Only ones I think are confirmed to be working on are:

  • Grey anodized aluminum – FW3A – available
  • Copper – FW3C – available for preorder
  • Cu-Ti – FW3T – planned. Photo of prototype
  • Brass – photo of prototype.
  • Other colors of anodized aluminum (green, purple, blue) – planned.

I don’t recall hearing or seeing anything official about any other versions of the FW3A.

RapidLux
RapidLux's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 hours 14 sec ago
Joined: 03/24/2017 - 13:21
Posts: 380

What is SS’s heat capacity compared to anodized aluminium? Will the Cu head in FW3T make it have better or slightly less heat tolerance than original the Al-ano? Has brass equal heat tolerance as Al?

Pages