FW3A, a TLF/BLF EDC flashlight - SST-20 available, coupon codes public

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contactcr
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The whole light comes apart easily why not take apart the tail and see if anything is out of place? Refer to fw3a useful info thread if needed.

Also, no pictures of driver side? A lot of sensational comments with no substance, come on DBSAR!

DBSAR
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contactcr wrote:
The whole light comes apart easily why not take apart the tail and see if anything is out of place? Refer to fw3a useful info thread if needed.

Also, no pictures of driver side? A lot of sensational comments with no substance, come on DBSAR!

Your point is???? – go see my Youtube video,. this light fell on the floor after just a 20 inch fall, and it turned on and would not turn off. SO after waking from my sleep.. do you expect me to to go into a full dissection to to try to find out want happened to this light that went to full turbo mode, and would not turn off until i removed the head? …I want to say something here to you now after this scare because i already has one scare with a near flashlight fire, but i wont because your not worth my time or frustration at the moment. FYI, the driver side is fine, there was no damage i could see to photograph for your amusement.

That Canadian flashlight guy & Lantern Guru -Den / DBSARlight

contactcr
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You made a video trying to reproduce what you are calling a short. You should probably go to bed and address it a more safe way tomorrow. Being very dramatic..

Umpi2000
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One of my new FW3A’s ramped on it’s own out of the box, from what I understand this happened to a few lights. I removed the head loosened and then tightened the tail till it stopped then replaced the battery and head, problem was solved. No issues after that, one I gifted needed to have the battery charged and I assume my father in law loosened the tail first so he needed to follow the above process with the head removal and tail tightening as it stopped operating correctly but it was solved easily.
I dunno if that helps? Otherwise my lights worked faultlessly.

tatasal
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Meanwhile, somewhere in China:

Would anyone not want this?

nobody
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That is really cool!  I'd probably go for something different than a bat, but it looks great.

Klayking
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Whoa, whoever did that works fast! And they say you can’t rush art…

raccoon city
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Personally, I think the bat is ugly, but another animal or design could be impressive.  :THUMBS-UP:

teacher
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@ tatasal … That looks amazing!! Fantastic workmanship…. Beer

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

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tatasal
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teacher wrote:
@ tatasal … That looks amazing!! Fantastic workmanship…. Beer

Yeah, it’s fantastic…it’s done by some flashaholic in China..no other word if there would be some available for the rest of us yet.

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Thumbs Up

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

       Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$  

         Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart  

      Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help???            TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal 

 

                                             

JasonWW
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DBSAR wrote:
HOLY CRAP.. Another favorite light got hot after shorting and smells of burned plastic right out of the blue.. I had a scary incident last month with the Imalent DX80 nearly exploding in my hands, and now this FW3A emitted burning smell and stopped working after just falling off a 20 inch high night table..



The fall might have shorted the inner tube making the driver think the button was pressed down continuously.

The tail pcb looks interesting. I’m not sure why it looks burnt, though. That would be due to high current flowing through that trace.

Here is a theory. The fall might have made the battery push hard against the inner tube. The inner tube might have shorted against the outer tube. In this situation the battery current might be forced to flow through that burnt looking switch trace to power the light PLUS the current flowing through the inner tube also triggers the driver to think the switch is being constantly pressed down.

Toykeeper has seen the results of a shorted inner tube. Hopefully she can comment. I can’t remember her description well enough.

Inspect the inner tube for any breaks in the anodized finish (outer part of inner tube).

Edit: Toykeeper said that if the inner tube gets shorted, the light acts like the button is pressed.

Texas Ace Lumen Tube calibrated with Maukka lights

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DBSAR
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JasonWW wrote:
DBSAR wrote:
HOLY CRAP.. Another favorite light got hot after shorting and smells of burned plastic right out of the blue.. I had a scary incident last month with the Imalent DX80 nearly exploding in my hands, and now this FW3A emitted burning smell and stopped working after just falling off a 20 inch high night table..



It doesn’t seem to be a problem in the head area. I would check the tail and especially the inner tube. The fall might have shorted the inner tube making the driver think the button was pressed down continuously.

The tail pcb looks interesting. I’m not sure why it looks burnt, though. That would be due to high current flowing through that trace.

Here is a theory. The fall might have made the battery push hard against the inner tube. The inner tube might have shorted against the outer tube. In this situation the battery current might be forced to flow through that burnt looking switch trace to power the light PLUS the current flowing through the inner tube also triggers the driver to think the switch is being constantly pressed down.

Toykeeper has seen the results of a shorted inner tube. Hopefully she can comment. I can’t remember her description well enough.

Inspect the inner tube for any breaks in the anodized finish (outer part of inner tube).

ok after closer inspection, there is no doubt the small trace had melted to the tail spring, why it happened after a small fall off the night table possibly landing on the tail to cause the short to the trace with the spring.I did check the inner tube, but dont see any scratches or flaws to allow it to short to the body.

( as i mentioned here in the FW3A troubleshooting thread, i will do a quick mod/fix to prevent the spring from shorting to that trace. http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1524862#comment-1524862

That Canadian flashlight guy & Lantern Guru -Den / DBSARlight

JoeRodge
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I was about to order one of these… but I’ve dropped my zebralight HUNDREDS of times and never had an issue.

JasonWW
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JoeRodge wrote:
I was about to order one of these… but I’ve dropped my zebralight HUNDREDS of times and never had an issue.

Are you scared? Big Smile

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JoeRodge wrote:
I was about to order one of these… but I’ve dropped my zebralight HUNDREDS of times and never had an issue.

Did you loose the feeling in your hands? I am starting too, I hope it don’t get that bad… Facepalm

KB1428 “Live Life WOT

JoeRodge
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My wife runs around the house slightly unscrewing all of my tail caps. 2 years ago today(not joking) my zebralight(sc600w iv plus) caught my cotton shorts pocket on fire.

I’m more worried about her finding out that my new light caught the bed sheets on fire

Kawi: I use my flashlight a lot and in hard to reach places. I use it a few hours a day. I’m also clumsy and drop it off my lap at least twice a week. But my hands are getting destroyed from doing repairs on small devices

contactcr
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Kawi’s hands are now made up of more metal shavings than tissue

chinooker
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I believe that Japanese/Chinese hands are smaller, better able to reach inside their miniature engineered wonders.
One reason I had my sinus surgery by a Japanese doctor and my proctologist is Dr No.

nobody
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This is very concerning. I just checked my spring. The end of the spring is about the 2 o’clock position from the FW3A stamp. The largest gap is about 11 o’clock. I can just barely get a sheet of paper thru the spring at the trace.  All three solder pads appear soldered ok. I’ve never soldered before. Do you think it is OK? I have had zilch problems with the light. I have never dropped it though. I do use FT batteries. 

JasonWW
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nobody wrote:

This is very concerning. I just checked my spring. The end of the spring is about the 2 o’clock position from the FW3A stamp. The largest gap is about 11 o’clock. I can just barely get a sheet of paper thru the spring at the trace.  All three solder pads appear soldered ok. I’ve never soldered before. Do you think it is OK? I have had zilch problems with the light. I have never dropped it though. I do use FT batteries. 


I would not be concerned. There doesn’t seem a chance the spring could touch the trace. You have a nice gap and the spring is properly soldered.

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dragunbayne
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Seems a piece of kapton tape over that trace would have been cheap insurance. I may desolder my spring and do just that when mine comes in. I like my lights to be as bulletproof as possible. My Olight S1 has been through a lot and refuses to stop working.

kat
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Is the head of this light easily replaceable?
Like, if I want a different led, can I just swap the head content, or do I need to unglue and solder stuff?

WalkIntoTheLight
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Mine had the sharp end of the spring right over the trace. Almost touching. Facepalm

The solder job on mine was really bad, too. Just one contact point, and the spring was way off center.

I desoldered it, and did an equally sh*tty solder job putting it back together. But, at least it’s centered, the sharp end is 180 degrees away from the trace, and there’s two contact points (couldn’t get the third for some reason). I also added some more solder so the spring sits up higher. There’s a good millimeter of space between the spring and the board.

I hope I did that correctly. Anyway, the light works fine, and the spring seems solidly in place.

This design flaw is not cool.

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Firelight2 wrote:
id30209 wrote:
Thx from my side as well!
Every day you learn something new

EDIT: but i need to agree with Doug also, my custom brass torch is getting warmer than alu torch with the same Cu light engine. Maker confirmed it has high quantity of copper so it would be ok to check with Lumintop about the brass they are about to release…


There are multiple factors involved:
  • Thermal Conductivity – how fast heat conducts through the material – a copper light with high thermal conductivity will probably heat up over the entire light. While a titanium light with low thermal conductivity will heat up mostly at the head, with the body and tailcap remaining relatively cool. The head might end up quite a bit hotter than the head in an all copper light, because the heat isn’t able to get out of the head quickly.

  • Thermal Capacity – how much heat energy the material can store. My understanding is that copper holds more heat than aluminum by volume, but aluminum is much lighter and can hold more heat more by mass.
  • Emissivity – this how fast heat is able to exit the material by being radiated away. In general higher emissivity is best. Dark anodized aluminum has good emissivity. Polished metal tends to have less.

The most practical setup for a flashlight is probably a pure copper pill combined with dark anodized aluminum body. This gives you maximum thermal conductivity right at the point of heat generation (the LED), while maintaining good emissivity and overall light weight (all copper lights are very heavy which is not very practical. Plus if they heat up too uniformly you may need gloves to hold the light).

Great combined info!

My favorite combo for weight vs ability to handle heat – Aluminum outside and copper inside. I’ll do a copper light very infrequently. I NEVER do brass, bronze or stainless steel. Titanium is rare for me, but has been purchased a few times.

teacher
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kat wrote:
Is the head of this light easily replaceable?
Like, if I want a different led, can I just swap the head content, or do I need to unglue and solder stuff?
It does not have a pill if that is what you are asking. If you want different emitters you will have to take the MCPCB out & either reflow new ones or install another MCPCB with different emitters.

As far as the head being “easily replaceable” …. yeah, you can just screw one off and screw another one on.

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

       Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$  

         Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart  

      Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help???            TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal 

 

                                             

RobertB
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contactcr wrote:
Kawi’s hands are now made up of more metal shavings than tissue

!https://qph.fs.quoracdn.net/main-qimg-1df3d41da404d91832247a03e7186aaf-c!

Kawi plays grand piano in a marching band

treellama
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RobertB wrote:
Kawi plays grand piano in a marching band

https://www.kawai-global.com/product/cr-40a/
teacher
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treellama wrote:
RobertB wrote:
Kawi plays grand piano in a marching band

https://www.kawai-global.com/product/cr-40a/

Nice… Thumbs Up

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

       Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$  

         Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart  

      Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help???            TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal 

 

                                             

Klayking
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Cute piano.

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