FW3A, a TLF/BLF EDC flashlight - SST-20 available, coupon codes public

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justanotherguy
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BlueSwordM wrote:
Try something much stronger: citric acid/vinegar + salt.

Remove it from the solution, and let it air dry.

If this doesn’t oxidize it, then it is coated.

Ill try some more, Just acetone’d it….

anyone in NE ILLinois into get togethers?

cdjaney
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If someone could respond….couldn’t find answer.
Curious…is the “candle” strobe/flicker (and lightning) mode adjustable in brightness? Or is it preset like most blinkies?

John 1:5 "The Light shines in the darkness, and the darkness did not comprehend it."

jasontheguitarist
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cdjaney wrote:
If someone could respond….couldn’t find answer. Curious…is the “candle” strobe/flicker (and lightning) mode adjustable in brightness? Or is it preset like most blinkies?

You can hold to increase and tap hold to decrease brightness just like in the normal mode.

cdjaney
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That is TOOOOO Awesome! Thanks for the reply!

John 1:5 "The Light shines in the darkness, and the darkness did not comprehend it."

Rayoui
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cdjaney wrote:
If someone could respond….couldn’t find answer. Curious…is the “candle” strobe/flicker (and lightning) mode adjustable in brightness? Or is it preset like most blinkies?

Brightness in candle mode can be set by tap and hold. Strobe modes have only adjustable speed. Lightning mode has no adjustments (brightness varies on its own).

mk23
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There’s a sale going on at my local store so i ordered one FW3A.
My light has a brass driver retaining ring, black pocket clip, Lumintop one piece optic and the most important detail is the tail
cap has been glued tight.
The light work flawlessly though, I just wish that i got the one using Carlo optic.

Geuzzz
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justanotherguy wrote:
are the copper ones coated now?? I opened mine, washed it and attempted to force patina with baking soda and warm water. The effect was negligible after 4 hours. like zero effect. I thought it would be easier

Put it overnight in a bag with smashed hard boiled eggs.

Patinas like crazy.

JasonWW
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mk23 wrote:

My light has a brass driver retaining ring, black pocket clip, Lumintop one piece optic and the most important detail is the tail
cap has been glued tight.

That sounds odd. They now have the retaining ring for the tail so glue is not necessary. The black clip is definitely an early part. I thought they had fully switched to silver clips before they started using the one piece optic.

Do you see the traces of glue or is it still together and too tight to remove? I have not heard of them gluing any tails. Quite odd.

Maybe the store added the glue to reduce warranty issues?

Texas Ace Lumen Tube calibrated with Maukka lights

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mk23
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JasonWW wrote:
mk23 wrote:

My light has a brass driver retaining ring, black pocket clip, Lumintop one piece optic and the most important detail is the tail
cap has been glued tight.

That sounds odd. They now have the retaining ring for the tail so glue is not necessary. The black clip is definitely an early part. I thought they had fully switched to silver clips before they started using the one piece optic.

Do you see the traces of glue or is it still together and too tight to remove? I have not heard of them gluing any tails. Quite odd.

Maybe the store added the glue to reduce warranty issues?

There is trace of glue on the pocket clip and the inner tube is pretty much stuck inside the body as well so i think there’s a good chance that it has been glued. I’ve also checked with the store, they said all their FW3A have been glued like this from the factory but only in their recent batch and not on the earlier ones.

Scallywag
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Received my purple edition today (thanks ToyKeeper). Worked great out of box – I opened it anyway, it has a black retaining ring in the tail, silver clip, and a brass retaining ring in the head. I forget how to check the Anduril version (well, I forget how to check for the manual memory or two-step lockout mode). Also has a glass lens and Carclo optic.
I went with the SST-20 4000K for this one, and I’m not noticing any green, so it’s a pretty good tint. The button doesn’t feel better or worse than I recall the button being on my original, group-buy edition FW3A.

Fake edit: Checked, and it does have a two-step lockout mode. I don’t remember other details to check for, or what Anduril version that indicates.

EDC Rotation: ZL SC62 | Jaxman E2L XP-G2 5A | Purple S2+ XPL-HI U6-3A | D4 w/ Luxeon V | RRT-01 
EagTac D25C Ti | DQG Slim AA Ti | UF-T1 by CRX | Olight S1 | Klarus Mini One Ti
L6 XHP70.2 P2 4000K FET+7135 | Jaxman M8 | MF02 | Jaxman Z1 CULNM1.TG | Blue S2+ w/ ML Special
In-progress: Supfire M6 3xXHP50.2 
Others: Nitecore EC23 | Nebo Twyst | Streamlight ProTac 1AA | TerraLux LightStar 100

justanotherguy
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Geuzzz wrote:
justanotherguy wrote:
are the copper ones coated now?? I opened mine, washed it and attempted to force patina with baking soda and warm water. The effect was negligible after 4 hours. like zero effect. I thought it would be easier

Put it overnight in a bag with smashed hard boiled eggs.

Patinas like crazy.


I might bite the bullet and get liver of sulfur. The baking soda did zip

anyone in NE ILLinois into get togethers?

Blackbeard
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I got mine 3 days ago, but the batteries I ordered were supposed to arrive yesterday, instead I got this bogus tracking notice “we are unable to access you residence, we will make an attempt on the next business day” which is mailman speak for I am too tired/lazy and want to go home Silly . And of course there is no mail tomorrow for holiday, so I have to sit and stare at this light for 2 more days

M4D M4X
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I got a Amazon.CO.UK deal

for the Lumintop FW3A
10 £ OFF - ask me for the code Wink

 

 

already member of M4DM4X.com ?

the best deals are waiting for YOU!

 

before you buy elsewhere mail me: MARTIN@M4DM4X.COM - i will try to save you money!

hodor
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Wow that’s a good price! I’d be in if they had the raw 4000K SST20 on there.

Blackbeard
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some rogue mailman dropped off my batteries on a holiday today! I had similar issues with this V2 version as a lot reported, mostly it wouldn’t shut off, one time right after I hit turbo, man was that hot unscrewing the head. then it wouldn’t turn on after I let it cool. Took it apart and cleaned everything with alcohol, still nothing.

Seems to be working now after I cranked down the tail and head simultaneously, that seems to be best way to get some good leverage. Hopefully that was the only issue.

contactcr
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Now that all the versions are available has anyone tested thermal regulation on the various metal combinations?

Something like a fan cooled 5 minute run time chart for each (assuming the same LED)

scosgt
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contactcr wrote:
Now that all the versions are available has anyone tested thermal regulation on the various metal combinations?

Something like a fan cooled 5 minute run time chart for each (assuming the same LED)


I did 30 seconds on the copper and it was too hot to hold.
I posted it on here someplace.
I think it was around 60 C
contactcr
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scosgt wrote:
contactcr wrote:
Now that all the versions are available has anyone tested thermal regulation on the various metal combinations?

Something like a fan cooled 5 minute run time chart for each (assuming the same LED)


I did 30 seconds on the copper and it was too hot to hold.
I posted it on here someplace.
I think it was around 60 C

Every light will be too hot to hold depending on your settings. Not really what I want to know. More interested in something like this:

With temp ceiling set to ~55C and a small fan on. Start from Turbo or Ceiling Max and then record % output for 5 minutes.

Curious how much you are really sacrificing by choosing full Ti for example.

scosgt
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I don’t have a meter to do that, but I can tell you for sure you will never have this light on Turbo for 5 minutes. You would be in the burn unit by then.

chops728
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With my lights —if you don’t manually step down Turbo —they will ramp down and continiue to ramp way down — sometimes to 35 lumens or so —I have the Temp set on 60c—you better be careful it will burn you —that’s in about 2 min —- it only stays in Turbo for 30 + seconds

contactcr
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Yea i’m referring to lights with the thermal regulation set correctly i’m not sure why scosgt is reading my reply as otherwise. Anyways, curious to see where and how fast it ends up at that “few hundred lumen” level depending on the material. I have one of each of the metals but only 2 share the same LED or I would do it myself. I may still try I suppose.

swiftblade13
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ok please forgive me if this has been brought up already but has anyone else had the button of their cells absolutely crushed by the driver spring of the FW3A?

KevinZA1988
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swiftblade13 wrote:
ok please forgive me if this has been brought up already but has anyone else had the button of their cells absolutely crushed by the driver spring of the FW3A?

Yes, my FW3A dented the positive contact on my NCR18650GA when I dropped it head down. It has happened in other lights as well.

Astrolux MF01 Mini, BLF Q8, BLF A6, BLF FW3A, BLF FW3C, Convoy L6, Convoy C8+ , Convoy S3, Convoy M21A, Convoy S11, Emisar D4, Fireflies E07, Jaxman E2L, Lumintop EDC18, Manta Ray C8.2 long version, Olight S1R Baton II special edition series, S2R Baton II, Nitecore HC65, Olight H1R Nova.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/JaJaDv4V838AEJf39

JasonWW
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swiftblade13 wrote:
ok please forgive me if this has been brought up already but has anyone else had the button of their cells absolutely crushed by the driver spring of the FW3A?

2 things, there is a length limit which is why flat top cells are recommended.
Second, anytime you have a new flashlight you have to make sure to not over tighten the head or tail and crush/damage the battery.

Texas Ace Lumen Tube calibrated with Maukka lights

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JasonWW
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KevinZA1988 wrote:

Yes, my FW3A dented the positive contact on my NCR18650GA when I dropped it head down. It has happened in other lights as well.

This would be a different situation where the G forces of the dropped battery dented the button. That can happen by dropping a battery by itself. It’s a little more likely to happen inside a flashlight as the impact angle doesn’t have to be so exact and the coiled spring focuses the pressure on a smaller area. The middle of the button is weaker than the edge.

Texas Ace Lumen Tube calibrated with Maukka lights

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KevinZA1988
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JasonWW wrote:
KevinZA1988 wrote:
Yes, my FW3A dented the positive contact on my NCR18650GA when I dropped it head down. It has happened in other lights as well.
This would be a different situation where the G forces of the dropped battery dented the button. That can happen by dropping a battery by itself. It’s a little more likely to happen inside a flashlight as the impact angle doesn’t have to be so exact and the coiled spring focuses the pressure on a smaller area. The middle of the button is weaker than the edge.

Obviously… I just told him my experience with dented cells. I stick to the cell size recommendations for all my flashlights.

Astrolux MF01 Mini, BLF Q8, BLF A6, BLF FW3A, BLF FW3C, Convoy L6, Convoy C8+ , Convoy S3, Convoy M21A, Convoy S11, Emisar D4, Fireflies E07, Jaxman E2L, Lumintop EDC18, Manta Ray C8.2 long version, Olight S1R Baton II special edition series, S2R Baton II, Nitecore HC65, Olight H1R Nova.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/JaJaDv4V838AEJf39

contactcr
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5 minute 30 second fan cooled with GA cell at 4.1x volts. I make no promises of the accuracy and in fact I don’t think the percentages are accurate but i’m hoping the overall shape is. When I pulled it off the box the SST-20 lights were in the 320-360 lumen range which doesn’t make sense given the percent stated.

JasonWW
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contactcr wrote:

When I pulled it off the box

I’m curious about the box. What are you talking about?

Texas Ace Lumen Tube calibrated with Maukka lights

Click this to go to signature links.

thisnameisvalid
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JasonWW wrote:
contactcr wrote:
When I pulled it off the box
I’m curious about the box. What are you talking about?

Integrating shoebox?

contactcr
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JasonWW wrote:
contactcr wrote:
When I pulled it off the box
I’m curious about the box. What are you talking about?

I used my old integrating shoe box and my Galaxy S10 with ceilingbounce app. I haven’t really used the app on this phone or the shoe box in a long time so I cant really trust how either of those work.

At the end of the test I stuck them on my own somewhat calibrated DIY sphere just to have a more accurate measurement at the ~5-6 minute mark

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