FW3A, a TLF/BLF EDC flashlight - SST-20 available, coupon codes public

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id30209
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contactcr wrote:
the 219C that SKV and myself received was not good. Next to the SST-20 it's visibly higher Duv. It has lower CRI than both Samsung and SST-20 and worse tint than both with too high current draw to top it all off. I do have a good 219C specimen from years ago but this is not it. (at least in my sample of 1 FW3A)

Yesterday i got FW3TC with 219C and i can confirm the tint is awefull.

These are going to be swaped out for sure.

WTB Titanium 4sevens Quarks & Jetbeam TCR1

LedTed
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scosgt wrote:
They (raw aluminium FW3A) were delayed, the last date was 9/12

And that was the week of the Mid-Autumn Festival, so I wouldn’t be surprised if the celebration caused a delay.

Enjoy the light show - LedTed

mortuus
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so a 21700 version is coming now , interesting.

...where Frugal meets with Flashlight!

Got Lumens
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mortuus wrote:
so a 21700 version is coming now , interesting.
Do You have a link to t his news?

Neutrālisflashaholic

Dougdimadome
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http://budgetlightforum.com/node/69070 I believe this is the thread for the the groupbuy.

BOO5TED
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Got Lumens wrote:

mortuus wrote:
so a 21700 version is coming now , interesting.
Do You have a link to t his news?

Saw it Flashlight Fanatics FB group and the post below from this thread.

http://budgetlightforum.com/node/68770?page=4

varbos wrote:

Lumintop leaked line-up for 2020:
FW3A in 14 new colors

FW3W (made of wood)

FW1C (copper)

FW1T (ti)

FW2A (2 emitters)

FW4A (quad)

FW3A 21700

FW1A 21700

FW7A 26550

FW3A mini (1xAA)

FW3A micro (button cell)

FW3A UV

more to be announced …

"America has three cities, New York, San Francisco and New Orleans. Everywhere else is Cleveland."- Tennessee Williams

 

varbos
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This post was merely a joke about how Lumintop are really milking the FW series … it is not really their 2020 lineup

However the 21700 version is real

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Big Smile

i think they try to offer a version to any taste 

 

already member of M4DM4X.com ?

the best deals are waiting for YOU!

 

before you buy elsewhere mail me: MARTIN@M4DM4X.COM - i will try to save you money!

BOO5TED
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varbos wrote:
This post was merely a joke about how Lumintop are really milking the FW series … it is not really their 2020 lineup

However the 21700 version is real

Well damn, you got me lol. Big Smile

"America has three cities, New York, San Francisco and New Orleans. Everywhere else is Cleveland."- Tennessee Williams

 

TheAuditor
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I got some protected 35E’s and they fit in my 219c and sst20 FW3As but not in my titanium and copper version. That has a different tail switch arrangement.

Bonum commune communitatis.

Yarp.

scosgt
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TheAuditor wrote:
I got some protected 35E’s and they fit in my 219c and sst20 FW3As but not in my titanium and copper version. That has a different tail switch arrangement.

Yes and in one of my copper ones the switch sucks

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Absolutely hated the switch in my titanium version, too soft/mushy and no click what so ever. Swapped it with the switch from my aluminum and its perfect now. Nice solid click and you actually have to apply pressure instead of breathing on it to activate. Wonder if the different size plastic nub has anything to do with it?

"America has three cities, New York, San Francisco and New Orleans. Everywhere else is Cleveland."- Tennessee Williams

 

Geuzzz
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BOO5TED wrote:
Absolutely hated the switch in my titanium version, too soft/mushy and no click what so ever. Swapped it with the switch from my aluminum and its perfect now. Nice solid click and you actually have to apply pressure instead of breathing on it to activate. Wonder if the different size plastic nub has anything to do with it?

Seems a hit or miss. My ti switch is as great as the one on my first batch alu version.

scosgt
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BOO5TED wrote:
Absolutely hated the switch in my titanium version, too soft/mushy and no click what so ever. Swapped it with the switch from my aluminum and its perfect now. Nice solid click and you actually have to apply pressure instead of breathing on it to activate. Wonder if the different size plastic nub has anything to do with it?

Mine is strange, I swapped out all the parts, no change
Then I swapped out an aluminum tail cap for the brass, worked perfectly.
So there is something different in the cap.
It works just fine until that last slight turn to get the signal to work then it is like crushed, still works but too little distance in the throw.
Even changed the inner tube, no help. Something in the copper cap.
My other copper FW3 works perfectly
Can not figure it out.

BOO5TED
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scosgt wrote:
BOO5TED wrote:
Absolutely hated the switch in my titanium version, too soft/mushy and no click what so ever. Swapped it with the switch from my aluminum and its perfect now. Nice solid click and you actually have to apply pressure instead of breathing on it to activate. Wonder if the different size plastic nub has anything to do with it?

Mine is strange, I swapped out all the parts, no change
Then I swapped out an aluminum tail cap for the brass, worked perfectly.
So there is something different in the cap.
It works just fine until that last slight turn to get the signal to work then it is like crushed, still works but too little distance in the throw.
Even changed the inner tube, no help. Something in the copper cap.
My other copper FW3 works perfectly
Can not figure it out.

When I first switched the buttons I didn’t notice a difference either, until I removed the retaining ring on the tail of my Ti light. With the button form the aluminum light(little nub) and no ring, it’s perfect.

"America has three cities, New York, San Francisco and New Orleans. Everywhere else is Cleveland."- Tennessee Williams

 

scosgt
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BOO5TED wrote:
scosgt wrote:
BOO5TED wrote:
Absolutely hated the switch in my titanium version, too soft/mushy and no click what so ever. Swapped it with the switch from my aluminum and its perfect now. Nice solid click and you actually have to apply pressure instead of breathing on it to activate. Wonder if the different size plastic nub has anything to do with it?

Mine is strange, I swapped out all the parts, no change
Then I swapped out an aluminum tail cap for the brass, worked perfectly.
So there is something different in the cap.
It works just fine until that last slight turn to get the signal to work then it is like crushed, still works but too little distance in the throw.
Even changed the inner tube, no help. Something in the copper cap.
My other copper FW3 works perfectly
Can not figure it out.

When I first switched the buttons I didn’t notice a difference either, until I removed the retaining ring on the tail of my Ti light. With the button form the aluminum light(little nub) and no ring, it’s perfect.

I tried it with the ring off and on, with the other button, no joy.

Lick
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Order placed July 14, Asked for refund about a few times, most recently a month ago from Neal, still no refund.

 

Really bad service probably the worst I ever had. What can I realistically do? Is there a better way to reach him? I have PMed him a few times, wrote it in email and had trusted him to do the right thing. Is my money lost?

scosgt
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My raw aluminum came in today.
For the first time ever I didn’t even need to remove the tail cap. Works perfectly.
Does have the one step lockout, which is strange since it is new production.

trakcon
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scosgt wrote:
My raw aluminum came in today. For the first time ever I didn’t even need to remove the tail cap. Works perfectly. Does have the one step lockout, which is strange since it is new production.

I’m sure you already have, but make sure the ramp and stepped modes aren’t set to the same floor. I think that would make it look like one step lockout.

scosgt
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trakcon wrote:
scosgt wrote:
My raw aluminum came in today. For the first time ever I didn’t even need to remove the tail cap. Works perfectly. Does have the one step lockout, which is strange since it is new production.

I’m sure you already have, but make sure the ramp and stepped modes aren’t set to the same floor. I think that would make it look like one step lockout.

Yup, you were right.
Thanks

trakcon
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scosgt wrote:
trakcon wrote:
scosgt wrote:
My raw aluminum came in today. For the first time ever I didn’t even need to remove the tail cap. Works perfectly. Does have the one step lockout, which is strange since it is new production.

I’m sure you already have, but make sure the ramp and stepped modes aren’t set to the same floor. I think that would make it look like one step lockout.

Yup, you were right.
Thanks

Glad I could help. Big Smile

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Got my raw aluminum and Ti-Cu last week. Both with 4000K SST-20.

My impressions:

Raw aluminum – Very impressed

  • Looks great
  • Everything in order and works out of the box
  • High-CRI SST-20 have excellent tint. Noticeably less green even than the 4000K SST-20 in my first-run grey FW3A.

Ti-Cu – Not impressed

  • Did not work out of the box – head retaining ring was loose, but even after tightening it and tailcap, light still did not work.
  • Finally got it to work, but only when I pressed the button really hard. Problem identified as being a defective microswitch. The switch had a noticeable click, but only made contact internally when pressed extremely hard. Fixed it by replacing the tailcap PCB and switch with one from an aluminum FW3A. Now it works.
  • Light came missing the o-ring at the tailcap that is meant to prevent the clip from rotating.
  • Tint is comparable to the first-run grey 4000K SST-20 FW3A. Still good, but noticeably worse than the tint in the raw aluminum FW3A.
  • Once I fixed all the problems (which required canabalizing an earlier model FW3A), the light now works fine and looks good.

scosgt
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trakcon wrote:
scosgt wrote:
trakcon wrote:
scosgt wrote:
My raw aluminum came in today. For the first time ever I didn’t even need to remove the tail cap. Works perfectly. Does have the one step lockout, which is strange since it is new production.

I’m sure you already have, but make sure the ramp and stepped modes aren’t set to the same floor. I think that would make it look like one step lockout.

Yup, you were right.
Thanks

Glad I could help. Big Smile

For the newbies like me:

The FIRST click on lock is the floor setting on RAMP.
The SECOND click on lock is the floor setting on STEP.

For example, for the first click to be moonlight and the second to be Turbo:

From ON, click 4 times
When you get the pulsing light click one time
After the flash, on the pulsing light click as many times as you want to subtract from turbo for the high ceiling – I think there are 150 clicks total, so 10 clicks would be 10% less (or whatever).

After that is done, click to turn the light off, then click to turn back on.

Now Click three times, that gets you into STEP mode.
Click four times. That gets you into low ramp.
At the pulsing light, click 150 times. That sets the floor at Turbo
After the flash, click one time on the pulsing light. that sets the Ceiling at Turbo -1
After the flash, click as many times as you want to set the number of steps. For this example just click once, there will be no steps.

Now turn off and click 4 times. You are locked. First click will be moon mode.Second click will be Turbo.

This is just an illustration. Real world, when you are in the setup for STEPS, click as many times as you want for brightness, suggest maybe 20 clicks just to see what it does. On the next pulse set the ceiling. Remember, that is MINUS clicks, it starts at full or turbo and works down, try 15-20 clicks to start. The third set of pulses sets the number of steps, do as many as you want.

Hope this helps someone. Took me a while to “get” it. I never use stepped mode, so I set the floor fairly high. Now I have a usable light from lock, two clicks gets me to maybe the equivalent of med mode.

trakcon
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scosgt wrote:
The FIRST click on lock is the floor setting on RAMP. The SECOND click on lock is the floor setting on STEP.

This is true IF you were in ramp mode when you locked it.

The first click is the floor of the current mode. The second click is the floor of the other mode.

scosgt
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Yes you are quite correct

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Only because I’ve sat and played with the settings obsessively. Wink

Your explanation is otherwise very good and much appreciated.

JasonWW
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Lick wrote:

Order placed July 14, Asked for refund about a few times, most recently a month ago from Neal, still no refund.

Really bad service probably the worst I ever had. What can I realistically do? Is there a better way to reach him? I have PMed him a few times, wrote it in email and had trusted him to do the right thing. Is my money lost?


You got no replies from PM or email?
The package never arrived, seems lost?
I’ll try and see if he responds to me and I’ll point him to you.

Texas Ace Lumen Tube calibrated with Maukka lights

Click this to go to signature links.

JasonWW
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Lick wrote:

Order placed July 14, Asked for refund about a few times, most recently a month ago from Neal, still no refund.

Really bad service probably the worst I ever had. What can I realistically do? Is there a better way to reach him? I have PMed him a few times, wrote it in email and had trusted him to do the right thing. Is my money lost?


Neal says he already issued you a refund. You might want to check your account to verify.

Texas Ace Lumen Tube calibrated with Maukka lights

Click this to go to signature links.

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dragunbayne wrote:
BOO5TED wrote:
Really wish that button was available separately. Crying

Me too!

I’d probably buy some too, so I can put them on all my FW3As. Smile

teejay wrote:

I made a candle diffuser for my TK special edition FW3A but you might have to squint to see it.

I really didn’t think anyone would 3D-print a thumbs-up candle diffuser. I was just making excuses to take a bath.

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I’ve been enjoying my FW3As and FW1A, but it’d be really nice if they came without AR coating on the lenses. Polishing the coating off takes a while and leaves my hands sore.

It’s worthwhile since removing the coating improves the tint… but it’d be nice if they came that way by default.

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