FW3A, a TLF/BLF EDC flashlight - SST-20 available, coupon codes public

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JasonWW
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mitsuki08 wrote:
JasonWW wrote:
Oh okay, so there is no beep to confirm the continuity when I click the switch. I tried to tighten it down more but I think it’s tightened well enough. Any suggestions to fix this?..

Not really, maybe try with and without the oring. Maybe someone has an better idea.

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M4D M4X
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 it beeps between spring and the ring

spring to thread is always connected 

 

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I just wanted to post some comparison photos that I took with the different tubes and clips and also side by side with the FW1A!
I really love these lights, did I mentioned it already? Wink

Enjoy! BTW, all of these (except the Sony battery) was bought from www.nealsgadgets.com Wink
Stuff I bought recently!

FW1A >>>>> FW3A
18350 tube

18500 tube

Tailcaps & Heads (FW1A has a retaining ring on the tail and the retaning ring on the driver is brass)

Tubes (FW3A > FW1A) [ yeah, they are different, but interchangeable, as far as I could test them and put them to work! Also, the clip on the FW1A is not dark, but it can be easily darkened with a blow torch, unlike the deep carry clip, that will probably take more efforts to do that! ]

FW1A 18350 & FW3A 18500 >>>> FW3A 18350 & FW1A 18500

The whole family Big Smile

[REVIEWS] AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// XTAR: PB2 Charger /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 /// LIVARNOLUX: 314791 /// SKILHUNT: M150

Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses: 1 / 2 /// Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)

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SammysHP
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mitsuki08 wrote:
Oh okay, so there is no beep to confirm the continuity when I click the switch. I tried to tighten it down more but I think it’s tightened well enough. Any suggestions to fix this?..

Can you check if your retaining ring in the tailcap is centered and that the inner command tube fits inside of it? You can also try to put the command tube in first and then screw on the outer tube.

Firelight2
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A rare possibility is a defective switch.

I had multiple FW3 lights with contact problems that were fixed by tightening the tube and tailcap.

However, that fix did NOT work on my Ti-Cu FW3T. Further checking revealed that the microswitch was actually defective.

  • It worked, but only if I pressed REALLY hard and even then only some of the time.
  • When I swapped the switch board for one from a different FW3 light the switch worked normally without excess pressure being needed.
  • I then swapped the defective board into a different FW3 light and it was still broken even though in a completely different light.

For this defective switch FW3 light I conclude that I need to desolder and remove the switch from the board and replace it with a different switch.

M4D M4X
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i made a short video how to measure the current - hope its helpful for someone

 

already member of M4DM4X.com ?

the best deals are waiting for YOU!

BIG THANKS for helping me by using my REFLinks

before you buy elsewhere mail me: MARTIN@M4DM4X.COM - i will try to save you money!

JasonWW
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Firelight2 wrote:
A rare possibility is a defective switch.

Your forgetting that his tail switch already works fine, as seen with the longer tube. It’s just the shorter tube that there is a contact problem.

mitsuki08 wrote:
Oh okay, so there is no beep to confirm the continuity when I click the switch. I tried to tighten it down more but I think it’s tightened well enough. Any suggestions to fix this?..

You might try tightening harder.

You can check continuity with the battery tube removed, just slide the inner tube against the switch. That should definitely work.

Are both ends of the new tube clean and bare metal? No coatings or residue covering the contact area?

Texas Ace Lumen Tube calibrated with Maukka lights

Click this to go to signature links.

deus1ex
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Firelight2 wrote:
A rare possibility is a defective switch.

I had multiple FW3 lights with contact problems that were fixed by tightening the tube and tailcap.

However, that fix did NOT work on my Ti-Cu FW3T. Further checking revealed that the microswitch was actually defective.

  • It worked, but only if I pressed REALLY hard and even then only some of the time.
  • When I swapped the switch board for one from a different FW3 light the switch worked normally without excess pressure being needed.
  • I then swapped the defective board into a different FW3 light and it was still broken even though in a completely different light.

For this defective switch FW3 light I conclude that I need to desolder and remove the switch from the board and replace it with a different switch.

At my switch was dirt under the switch. I also had to push hard. The plate can be dismantled.

mitsuki08
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JasonWW wrote:
Not really, maybe try with and without the oring. Maybe someone has an better idea.

I tried it without the oring and it still won’t wotk. Thanks for all the help anyways Beer

SammysHP wrote:
Can you check if your retaining ring in the tailcap is centered and that the inner command tube fits inside of it? You can also try to put the command tube in first and then screw on the outer tube.

I don’t have a retaining ring on mine. I had the one without it. It’s aligned really well as far as I can tell.

Firelight2 wrote:
A rare possibility is a defective switch.. ..snip…

The tail cap and head works fine on the 18650 tube so I’m sure the short tube is the issue

JasonWW wrote:

You might try tightening harder.

You can check continuity with the battery tube removed, just slide the inner tube against the switch. That should definitely work.

Are both ends of the new tube clean and bare metal? No coatings or residue covering the contact area?

I tried to check continuity without the battery tube. There really is no beep. I think the inner tube really is just defective. Tapping at both ends of the inner tube doesn’t seem to beep either.

I wiped everything with IPA and yes they’re all bare metal.

M4D M4X
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wow

the black, inner tube has no continuity? 

 

can you try to sand both ends a little bit? 

(I would use a 400 grid and press with the thumb against the tube end, then go around twice) 

it only needs contact on one point each ends Wink 

 

already member of M4DM4X.com ?

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mitsuki08
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M4D M4X wrote:

wow


the black, inner tube has no continuity? 


 


can you try to sand both ends a little bit? 


(I would use a 400 grid and press with the thumb against the tube end, then go around twice) 


it only needs contact on one point each ends Wink 

I did that too but with a sharpening stone. Not sure what grit but I made sure to see some scratches on it to make sure a new surface has formed.

M4D M4X
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really strange 

 

did you post pictures how far the inner tube sticks out of both sides? 

 

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mitsuki08
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M4D M4X wrote:

really strange 


 


did you post pictures how far the inner tube sticks out of both sides? 

It’s similar to MascaratumB’s

JasonWW
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M4D M4X wrote:

really strange 


 


did you post pictures how far the inner tube sticks out of both sides? 


Here they are. You can see when screwed together the head and tail are not bottomed out on the battery tube, which is good.
mitsuki08 wrote:
JasonWW wrote:
The inner tube should only work one direction, with the lip near the tail.

Is your oring under the lip on the smaller tube?

Tighten the tail cap first, then the head.

Yes, my oring is under the lip on the smaller tube. I also tightened the tail cap first and it didn’t seem to do anything. Tightening it down just brings it to this.

I tried to remove the oring from the lip under the inner tube and I can tighten it down further, I get a blink so i guess there is power but clicking the switch still does nothing.


Texas Ace Lumen Tube calibrated with Maukka lights

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mitsuki08
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Ok. I got frustrated and mad which was a good thing I guess and put it on a vice. It works for now but I still get some clicks that do nothing. Better than nothing I guess. Thanks for all the help! Hopefully I didn’t make it permanently an 18350.

Edit: It doesn’t work again :FACEPALM:. After fixing it I laid it on my table. Wanted to play around with it so I picked it up and it doesn’t work anymore.

P33
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Unfortunately I can’t take pictures until end of the next week. I actually remember having to tighten the whole light quite a lot to ensure it register every click.
Ill try to measure my 18350 inner tube as well.

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Checked the switch on my defective FW3T. This is the one with the unreliable switch.

The switch is super-simple. Literally just a piece of spring steel on top of a PCB. The steel is held on with kapton tape. I removed the tape and cleaned underneath with deoxit. Then replaced the tape with fresh tape.

Now the switch works, but the light still does not when I use the black inner tube that came with it. For some reason the tube just isn’t long enough. Tubes from other FW3 lights work just fine, but the one that came with it is just too short to make contact.

To fix, I think I’d need to pull out the driver and/or tailcap and add a bit of extra solder along the contact ring for the inner tube.

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Firelight2 wrote:
Checked the switch on my defective FW3T. This is the one with the unreliable switch.

The switch is super-simple. Literally just a piece of spring steel on top of a PCB. The steel is held on with kapton tape. I removed the tape and cleaned underneath with deoxit. Then replaced the tape with fresh tape.

Now the switch works, but the light still does not when I use the black inner tube that came with it. For some reason the tube just isn’t long enough. Tubes from other FW3 lights work just fine, but the one that came with it is just too short to make contact.

To fix, I think I’d need to pull out the driver and/or tailcap and add a bit of extra solder along the contact ring for the inner tube.

I wonder where the difference in tubes lies.. If you stood the working one next to then non-working one….

anyone in NE ILLinois into get togethers?

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justanotherguy wrote:
Firelight2 wrote:
Checked the switch on my defective FW3T. This is the one with the unreliable switch.

The switch is super-simple. Literally just a piece of spring steel on top of a PCB. The steel is held on with kapton tape. I removed the tape and cleaned underneath with deoxit. Then replaced the tape with fresh tape.

Now the switch works, but the light still does not when I use the black inner tube that came with it. For some reason the tube just isn’t long enough. Tubes from other FW3 lights work just fine, but the one that came with it is just too short to make contact.

To fix, I think I’d need to pull out the driver and/or tailcap and add a bit of extra solder along the contact ring for the inner tube.

I wonder where the difference in tubes lies.. If you stood the working one next to then non-working one….

IMO, the FW3A is a nice light (though I don’t use mine), but the manufacturing tolerances are too tight for inexpensive production. I know it was designed to be something unique, but a more simple design, perhaps with a side switch or a mechanical tail switch, would have resulted in less issues.

The FW3A is kind of like a cheap HDS light. I know the HDS is way over-priced, but perhaps the FW3A is a bit under-priced.

JasonWW
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Well, they did make a side switch version. It’s not as unique, though

Texas Ace Lumen Tube calibrated with Maukka lights

Click this to go to signature links.

justanotherguy
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I had one of my FW3A powder coated. sort of…
I guess the first one went bad, after a couple tries… the guy replaced the light and powder coated the body and tail cap….
He assembled it and sent it back.looks kinda cool.but it Doesnt work
I am still trying to figure out where it all goes south…The light engine may be faulty.I can , by swapping things around, and omitting the clip, get the light to work in a basic fashion.
it turns on, ramps about half way…will not go turbo with a double click. Will not show battery with triple click…
it’s all wonky. a failed experiment I am afraid.

The inner black tube, I have two now, and they are markedly different….no idea if the paint is screwing up continuity or what
I cant screw the brass retaining ring into the painted tailcap, overspray?
It lights with both tail caps, with no clip.. but no turbo or other multi button commands… odd

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1gP8WMZWp7Vl2ndVzUO6lkfeqhnAw1m1V

I will probably box it up and give it to Dale or something

anyone in NE ILLinois into get togethers?

JasonWW
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justanotherguy wrote:
I had one of my FW3A powder coated. sort of…
I guess the first one went bad, after a couple tries… the guy replaced the light and powder coated the body and tail cap….
He assembled it and sent it back.looks kinda cool.but it Doesnt work
I am still trying to figure out where it all goes south…The light engine may be faulty.I can , by swapping things around, and omitting the clip, get the light to work in a basic fashion.
it turns on, ramps about half way…will not go turbo with a double click. Will not show battery with triple click…
it’s all wonky. a failed experiment I am afraid.

The inner black tube, I have two now, and they are markedly different….no idea if the paint is screwing up continuity or what
I cant screw the brass retaining ring into the painted tailcap, overspray?
It lights with both tail caps, with no clip.. but no turbo or other multi button commands… odd

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1gP8WMZWp7Vl2ndVzUO6lkfeqhnAw1m1V

I will probably box it up and give it to Dale or something


Sounds like your in muggle mode or basic mode. Try 6 fast clicks from off.

Texas Ace Lumen Tube calibrated with Maukka lights

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Didn’t really think of that…
If that’s it, it’d be nice to get it running with the clip on…

anyone in NE ILLinois into get togethers?

JasonWW
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justanotherguy wrote:
Didn’t really think of that…
If that’s it, it’d be nice to get it running with the clip on…

The clip just needs room. As long as it doesn’t prevent the tail cap from fully screwing down (with head loose, then tighten head fully), it should not make a difference in functionality. Sometimes you have to tighten pretty hard.

Texas Ace Lumen Tube calibrated with Maukka lights

Click this to go to signature links.

justanotherguy
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JasonWW wrote:
justanotherguy wrote:
Didn’t really think of that… If that’s it, it’d be nice to get it running with the clip on…
The clip just needs room. As long as it doesn’t prevent the tail cap from fully screwing down (with head loose, then tighten head fully), it should not make a difference in functionality. Sometimes you have to tighten pretty hard.

Derp
You were spot on. I didnt think a ‘new’ light would be in muggle. The clip is in the way. I may try to clean that area out on the lathe tomorrow to remove any PC that got in that area…
But, yea its nice that it works.
If only it was 100% orange. The part he dd looks great !

anyone in NE ILLinois into get togethers?

mitsuki08
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Firelight2 wrote:
Checked the switch on my defective FW3T. This is the one with the unreliable switch.

The switch is super-simple. Literally just a piece of spring steel on top of a PCB. The steel is held on with kapton tape. I removed the tape and cleaned underneath with deoxit. Then replaced the tape with fresh tape.

Now the switch works, but the light still does not when I use the black inner tube that came with it. For some reason the tube just isn’t long enough. Tubes from other FW3 lights work just fine, but the one that came with it is just too short to make contact.

To fix, I think I’d need to pull out the driver and/or tailcap and add a bit of extra solder along the contact ring for the inner tube.

I agree I think the inner tube really is just too short. I tried to stick a piece of aluminum foil at the tail cap end and tied to check for continuity as JasonWW suggested and it does beep.

Would adding solder cause an issue with friction against the inner tube when screwing it in? Sorry not all that familiar with solder.

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FW3A V2 Titanium proto (yes I realize it should be FW3T V2 but it’s lumintops naming scheme they went with)



 RIP  SPC Joey Riley, KIA 11/24/14. Now I am become death, the destroyer of worlds.

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Cereal_killer wrote:
FW3A V2 Titanium proto (yes I realize it should be FW3T V2 but it’s lumintops naming scheme they went with)

Wow. Any plans to do this with the FW1A?

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I have absolutely no clue, the pics were posted on their FB. I have zero inside info nor any direct communication with them in any way. Just sharing the photos here.

It seems they’ve come up with a new way to do the tail cap!

 RIP  SPC Joey Riley, KIA 11/24/14. Now I am become death, the destroyer of worlds.

JasonWW
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mitsuki08 wrote:

Would adding solder cause an issue with friction against the inner tube when screwing it in? Sorry not all that familiar with solder.

It depends on how you do it. It should be okay as long as the solder is fairly flat and thin.

Texas Ace Lumen Tube calibrated with Maukka lights

Click this to go to signature links.

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