FW3A, a TLF/BLF EDC flashlight - SST-20 available, coupon codes public

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JasonWW
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Chatika vas Paus wrote:
Carclo doesn’t melt in UV? I am asking because I know that Yajiamei singe optics are melting.

I think the Carclo handle about 150°C 120°C.
I don’t know what material the Yajiamei singe optics are made of.

Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights

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Chatika vas Paus
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They said me once that’s PMMA.

JasonWW
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I had to check my older posts, it’s actually around 120°C. The Carclo is a UV stabilized clear polycarbonate.

PMMA is like acrylic or plexiglass. Generally speaking it seems to have a melting point of around 160°C. Maybe it’s not UV stabilized?

Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights

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M4D M4X
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some people rant about the many variations and "offsprings" of the original design / idea...

but i actually like that it evolved from "something for some freaks" to a flashlight-family suiteable for many ...

a nice example:

a customized FW3T+C with engraved copper button (by S•C•P Schiller Custom Parts) and more - what a beauty!
owner: Patric Böttcher 

 

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WalkIntoTheLight
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M4D M4X wrote:
some people rant about the many variations and “offsprings” of the original design / idea…

but i actually like that it evolved from “something for some freaks” to a flashlight-family suiteable for many …

IMO, this is not a flashlight for “many”. It should be owned only by “freaks”, who have the necessary knowledge to deal with it safely. There’s way too many reports of melt-downs due to a variety of speculative causes.

It’s a very nice-looking light, but potentially much more dangerous than most other lithium-ion lights. The design is inherently bad for the kind of manufacturing tolerances used to produce it cheaply. And, add to that, firmware which has some dubious safety issues in recent months (D4v2). Maybe not the version used in this light, but who knows what other bugs are waiting to be discovered?

People should be careful with this light. It’s a fun light, but don’t leave it on some paper and go to bed, even if it’s “off”.

KevinZA1988
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WalkIntoTheLight wrote:
M4D M4X wrote:
some people rant about the many variations and “offsprings” of the original design / idea…

but i actually like that it evolved from “something for some freaks” to a flashlight-family suiteable for many …

IMO, this is not a flashlight for “many”. It should be owned only by “freaks”, who have the necessary knowledge to deal with it safely. There’s way too many reports of melt-downs due to a variety of speculative causes.

It’s a very nice-looking light, but potentially much more dangerous than most other lithium-ion lights. The design is inherently bad for the kind of manufacturing tolerances used to produce it cheaply. And, add to that, firmware which has some dubious safety issues in recent months (D4v2). Maybe not the version used in this light, but who knows what other bugs are waiting to be discovered?

People should be careful with this light. It’s a fun light, but don’t leave it on some paper and go to bed, even if it’s “off”.

I totally agree with you. This light is a danger to muggles and noobs. If twice as much was invested in the light it might have been a different story. I love my FW collection…

Armytek Prime C1 Pro, Armytek Prime C2 Pro, Armytek Tiara C1 Pro, Astrolux MF01 Mini, BLF Q8, BLF A6, BLF FW1A, BLF FW3A, BLF FW3C, BLF LT1, Convoy L6, Convoy C8+ , Convoy S3, Convoy M21A, Convoy S11, Emisar D4, Fireflies E07, Jaxman E2L, Lumintop EDC18, Manta Ray C8.2 long version, Olight S1R Baton II special edition series, S2R Baton II, Nitecore HC65, Olight H1R Nova.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/JaJaDv4V838AEJf39

maba
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Love

M4D M4X
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@maba: BEAUTIFUL

 

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I received  my second FW3A today Smile

For a few days i was suspecting shenanigans from La Poste as the parcel status was bouncing from "has arrived at the site for distribution" to "deposited in the recipient's mailbox" and back again several times but it eventually reached my mailbox for real !

 

There are a few difference with my first FW3A that was from 1st batch.

Pros :

  • the most obvious at first sight is the smooth SS clip wich i like better than the original one
  • new Anduril version with the 2 levels momentary lockout (nice move !)
  • retaining ring added for the tail pcb

Cons :

  • the switch action doesn't feel right and the button sometimes stay stuck in the pressed position

The switch problem was easily solved thanks to JaredM's post about the "o-ring, no nubin" mod so everything is perfect now but as much as i love this torch i have to agree with the people saying that, with that kind of issue, the FW3A might not be for everyone.

 

Note : The SS bezel is beautiful !

maba
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Yes, it’s a great modification Big Smile

I used the usual o-ring:

r9dmMT
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Purple: Cree XP-L HI 1A 6500K, Aluminum: SST-20 4000K.

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Well I received a shipment of parts and lights from Neal yesterday, and it would appear the new deep-carry clip and 18350 tube is not compatible with older versions of the FW3A…or at least not with my particular version (no retaining ring in the tailcap). I can’t get the 18350 tube to work at all. The inner tube does not seem to contact the switch board correctly because I’m getting no continuity on the meter when the switch is pressed. Tried screwing it together as tight as I could, with clip, no clip, nothing works. The short tube does however work with the brand new FW1A that also came yesterday, but really I wanted it for the FW3A as that’s my EDC light.

Same issue with the deep carry clip…I think the ring is just thick enough to keep the inner tube from contacting. It appears to be slightly thicker than the original clip’s ring.

At least the new SS bezel fits on my old FW3A…nevermind that they sent two FW3A bezels instead of the one FW3A and one FW1A I ordered. My shiny new FW1A will have to wait for it’s bezel upgrade.

If anyone has gotten these new parts to work with older versions of this light please let me know how!

JJMcGee83
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As cool as the Fw3a is I’d love a super slim 1 led model that takes 14500s.

treellama
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I had no luck with the 18350 tube and a first-batch FW3A. I don’t have a newer one to try it with.

KawiBoy1428
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I made a brass signal tube for mine. Had to make brass signal tubes to replace the signal springs in my NovaTacFW3 mods and my FW3A shorty, FW3Ti shorty mods…

Now I can run any accessory I want… no more messing around…

KB1428 “Live Life WOT

wishiwereaskibum
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Nothing like jumping into a thread at post number 13,000 and change.

Simple question. Should I get this FW3A for yet another EDC? I’ve read about the head burning hot, I’ve read about the first rev having issues with a clamp in the tail cap… bla bla bla…

The biggest reason I’m toying with this light is the cool UI
‘update” with candle simulation as well as a nice floody beam, but it’s a good chunk of change for yet another toy…

So what is the consensus on this light? In less then 13,581 threads!

Ps. I never buy lights off amazon, but in this case pricing seems reasonable. $42.99 with a Samsung INR. https://www.amazon.com/LUMINTOP-Rechargeable-Flashlight-Water-proof-Roya.... Delivered tomorrow. …

WishIwereaSkibum

M4D M4X
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it is small and it has power - so it gets hot if you pull many lumens Wink

if you like the UI and want a more classic EDC go for the EDC18 Wink


 

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ToyKeeper
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wishiwereaskibum wrote:
Simple question. Should I get this FW3A for yet another EDC?

It really depends on what you like. Do you want a small light with tail e-switch and lots of features? If so, this light is a good choice.

If you prefer a side switch, something else would be a better choice.

I like it quite a bit, but I’m biased. It has been my main light since I got the first prototype in 2017; I hardly use anything else any more. Mostly, a bare aluminum model with XP-L HI 3D LEDs. This gives me good tint, good efficiency, and scratches aren’t really visible.

The main other light I use is a FW1A, which has a throwier beam for outdoor use.

Or I’ll carry around whatever light I’m working on at the time, but those come and go.

wishiwereaskibum
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ToyKeeper wrote:
wishiwereaskibum wrote:
Simple question. Should I get this FW3A for yet another EDC?

It really depends on what you like. Do you want a small light with tail e-switch and lots of features? If so, this light is a good choice.

If you prefer a side switch, something else would be a better choice.

I like it quite a bit, but I’m biased. It has been my main light since I got the first prototype in 2017; I hardly use anything else any more. Mostly, a bare aluminum model with XP-L HI 3D LEDs. This gives me good tint, good efficiency, and scratches aren’t really visible.

The main other light I use is a FW1A, which has a throwier beam for outdoor use.

Or I’ll carry around whatever light I’m working on at the time, but those come and go.

Coming from you, even with the disclaimer, it’s a solid recommendation! Thanks!

WishIwereaSkibum

ToyKeeper
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wishiwereaskibum wrote:
Coming from you, even with the disclaimer, it’s a solid recommendation! Thanks!

I’m pretty biased though. I mean, I made the firmware for it and ran the project for the final year or so. I’d have to be pretty crazy to put in that much effort if I didn’t like it.

So I really can’t give an objective opinion about it.

wishiwereaskibum
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Is there more conversation about the emitters / cri/ efficiency/ otf lumens / throw-spot profile other thread one? Are the guts of the tail switch now retained with a retainer ring so it’s safe to open the tail cap to change the battery without risk of loosing internal bits?

WishIwereaSkibum

ToyKeeper
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wishiwereaskibum wrote:
Is there more conversation about the emitters / cri/ efficiency/ otf lumens / throw-spot profile other thread one? Are the guts of the tail switch now retained with a retainer ring so it’s safe to open the tail cap to change the battery without risk of loosing internal bits?

The FW3A has gone through so many hardware revisions and spinoffs that it’s really hard to keep track. It doesn’t help that nearly all of the revisions have been done silently, so people only find out by opening up the item and finding that it’s different.

In other words, YMMV. I have no idea who is shipping which versions, or what the most recent ones are like.

The safest bet is to order from a vendor who cares and pays attention, like Calvin at Illumn, who can answer questions about the current status.

About the LEDs, it really depends on personal preference. Me, I like the XP-L HI 3D version… but I don’t like any of the others. I dislike SST-20 in particular, since it looks rather green on the modes I use, and it sucks the blue out. So despite having a high CRI rating, it makes all the colors look wrong… even after correcting it with a minus-green filter.

It’s also probably a good idea to open the front of a new light to make sure it doesn’t have flux on the LEDs. That has happened sometimes… like here’s how one of mine looked when it was brand new, before I cleaned it:

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