How to Modify an L2P tailcap for forward click (pics)

Since reading old4570's L2i tailcap mod, I have been a fan of the Romisen switches. At the time that I placed an order at Shiningbeam.com, there were no RC-G2 switches. I guess these things sell out fast, because I checked their stock for both RC-G2 and RC-N3 switches a couple of days ago and evidently they had plenty. Now they have none listed.

When they are in stock, and as cheap as they are, it might be best to order at least 5 at a time, just in case you run into some projects requiring forward-click switches. Personally, I am all about forward-clicky; all of my lights have it.

It turns out there is little difference between the RC-G2 switch and the RC-N3 switch. I think the N3 switch has deeper threads.

The Solarforce L2P switch. I like that it somewhat tailstands -- the boot extends ever-so-slightly past flush, so setting the light on a flat surface makes it wobble a tiny bit).

But it is also a good match for the host light: in this case a SureFire G2 LED. I am not a fan of the twisty switch, and the McClicky doesn't tailstand without some big clunky shroud, all of which cost a lot more than this mod.

Stock G2 LED. (Scroll down for finished product.)

If I did the old4570 mod as described, the flashlight body wouldn't contact the metal retaining ring to complete the circuit, as the switch would be seated too deeply in the tailcap. Therefore, I decided to keep the rubber nipple in the boot, as well as the plastic washer to push the Romisen switch further up to make contact with the flashlight body.

I discovered upon assembly that the problem with that is that the rubber nipple in the tailcap boot is too short, resulting in a God-awful press of about 6 or 7 lbs. to activate the switch, and if the press was anything but arrow straight it would not work. I looked around the room to find something to extend the boot nipple. I found my kids' rare earth magnets:


Peeled off one disc and placed it in the washer. For practical purposes any little thing will work as long as its O.D. is somewhat equivalent to the I.D. of the washer.

Drop in the Romisen RC-N3 switch and replace the L2P retaining ring. For best results, tighten the ring just enough to loosely hold the switch in position, then center the spring, then tighten the rest of the way. I have also found that a little low-temp loctite keeps the retaining ring from loosening and renders your tailcap rather shock-resistant.

Assembled, the press is nice and easy and works when pressed obliquely. You now have a G2 forward-clicky that tailstands without an IMO unwieldy shroud. I think it kind of looks like original equipment, save for the Solarforce markings of course.

I love those (Rominsen) switches as well. I bought 5 from Shiningbeam and I think I’ve used them all.
Nice work!