Great job Kronos! Your light looks great! But the thicker floor plate isnt going to help a whole lot in transferring heat through the head because its not the thermal bottleneck. What are the chances of making the head a solid 1 piece unit for a few dollars more, and keeping the aluminum walls thick to follow the contours of the reflector to better transfer heat through the head? All that dead air between the reflector and the head should be solid aluminum, as thick as possible, without any right angles, using only radius cuts, and of a 1 pc design to assist in maximum cooling. Any compromise here limits heat transfer, which heats the base of the floor plate assembly… which in turn heats up the battery tube and the cells. Then we wind up with another powerful light, where the battery tube is almost as hot as the head after a full power run. This has been the limitation in almost every high powered light sold up to this point. Now you have a chance to address that problem directly before its too late. As it is now, the light has the same thermal bottleneck as the S70 (and most others), which survives at 5 amps. Since you’re almost doubling the amps, I think you’d do much better in asking ThorFire if they can accommodate us. Every little bit is going to count at those power levels, and cells shouldn’t be used as heat sinks for such an awesome light that you’ve created!
Interesting light.
Nice to see the good heatshedding properties of the S70 has been kept and maybe even more inline with the Jax Hunter (the original design that if I understand correctly is a bit better the Thorfire S70
Congrats on starting your Kronos business with a flashlight and not a watch, seems more fitting on BLF, cool.
Kronos wrote:
instead of dragging it out over several months, or possibly over a year. Thanks for being so patient!
Too bad you decided to be silent after dropping hint and hint of new lights more then a year ago.
It could have been fun to see this come to life. But lucky us it is mere renders now so there are steps to see after all ;).
Who made these nice renders by the way?
Can you show the driver?
It reads like the normal S70s driver with the sense resistor bypassed mod lots have done to get to around 9A.
Have you tested the new XHP70.2?
XHP70 lights are plenty and from ~$37 a S70S could be bought not long ago. Solder blob is practically free so a modern LED could be a nice justification of the high price (well sure people have no problem with you guys earning money but still almost twice the S70S price is pretty steep) it would also show it is a new light, not something in the works for many many months.
Oh yeah do not place me on the list now.
I am curious about the answers I just posted and can decide to be put on there when they are in.
Dang this topic dropped of the front pages fast, a shame so here you go with a bump
Love the L6 anti roll cutouts smacked on a S70/Jax Hunter head. You guys took the two popular XHP70 lights and used the one with the best cooling properties (good!)
For all the Convoy fans using a clear design feature of the L series, very smart.
I can’t recall what brand uses that diamond tube, something with pineapple in torch name
Clever clever!
I’ve seen thermal imaging tests taken as a light was turned on and in the first seconds as the heat made it’s way through the heat sink. They said the pattern was almost exactly an inversion of the light coming out the front, so if you consider the light out the top as the top half of an X and the heat out from under the emitter as the bottom half of this X, you see where the heat needs to go for fast and immediate dispersal.
Having fins on the head, up by the reflector, is simply not efficient. Sure, eventually those fins will transfer some heat to the surrounding air, but the light has to get saturated first, allowing the emitter to sit in it’s own heat for far too long a period.
Deep fins in the expanding cone of thermal path would be most effective. And yes, if aesthetic fins on the head need to be figured in then the pill and head should ideally be one piece for effective saturation transfer.
The centering ring is almost always made of a plastic material, effectively insulating the heavy aluminum reflector against drawing heat away from the mcpcb or substrate. Would be nice if this large piece of aluminum were to be optimally mated to the head and a copper centering ring used to allow effective contact for thermal expansion into the upper part of the head/reflector to aid the lower heat sink. My 2 cents.
Interested in one. Thanks
Low mode and long runtime lover…
put me down pls
Words can be broken,
so can bones.
Yeah, I’m in die one Light!
' Lumen est omen '
Hope is no option!
I’m in for one.
I would like one. Please put me down.
Please put me down for “ Two “ units.
Thanks
damn that what sweet light kronos, too bad i’m kinda low budget right now.
Don’t mistake my kindness for weakness.
I am kind to everyone, but when someone is unkind to me, weak is not what you are going to remember about me.
I`m in for one.
Greets
Carsten
I’m in for one
Great job Kronos! Your light looks great! But the thicker floor plate isnt going to help a whole lot in transferring heat through the head because its not the thermal bottleneck. What are the chances of making the head a solid 1 piece unit for a few dollars more, and keeping the aluminum walls thick to follow the contours of the reflector to better transfer heat through the head? All that dead air between the reflector and the head should be solid aluminum, as thick as possible, without any right angles, using only radius cuts, and of a 1 pc design to assist in maximum cooling. Any compromise here limits heat transfer, which heats the base of the floor plate assembly… which in turn heats up the battery tube and the cells. Then we wind up with another powerful light, where the battery tube is almost as hot as the head after a full power run. This has been the limitation in almost every high powered light sold up to this point. Now you have a chance to address that problem directly before its too late. As it is now, the light has the same thermal bottleneck as the S70 (and most others), which survives at 5 amps. Since you’re almost doubling the amps, I think you’d do much better in asking ThorFire if they can accommodate us. Every little bit is going to count at those power levels, and cells shouldn’t be used as heat sinks for such an awesome light that you’ve created!
Thoughts?
Ban all Klarus flashlights! >>>>> https://www.reddit.com/r/flashlight/comments/a0n88o/klarus_with_a_strong...
Review: 150 Million Candlepower Military Xenon Arc Battlefield Illuminator (AN/VSS-3A)
My new collection of 50+ Chinese knives
I’ll take one.
Nice project, thanks.
Regards Frank
Put me down for 1pc.
Thank you.
Interesting light.
Nice to see the good heatshedding properties of the S70 has been kept and maybe even more inline with the Jax Hunter (the original design that if I understand correctly is a bit better the Thorfire S70
Congrats on starting your Kronos business with a flashlight and not a watch, seems more fitting on BLF, cool.
Too bad you decided to be silent after dropping hint and hint of new lights more then a year ago.
It could have been fun to see this come to life. But lucky us it is mere renders now so there are steps to see after all ;).
Who made these nice renders by the way?
Can you show the driver?
It reads like the normal S70s driver with the sense resistor bypassed mod lots have done to get to around 9A.
Have you tested the new XHP70.2?
XHP70 lights are plenty and from ~$37 a S70S could be bought not long ago. Solder blob is practically free so a modern LED could be a nice justification of the high price (well sure people have no problem with you guys earning money but still almost twice the S70S price is pretty steep) it would also show it is a new light, not something in the works for many many months.
Oh yeah do not place me on the list now.
I am curious about the answers I just posted and can decide to be put on there when they are in.
It is done when it is done
How my BLF Specials generally work, please read before asking Qs
The Q8, Exciting a groupbuy for a Premium BLF special high lumens soda can light!
The GT, A BLF special GIGA thrower
The FW3A, a TLF BLF special small, elegant, powerful triple
Lithium Ion safety 101 important read
Sorry grammarlovers, I am a real King Typo.
Put me down for one please. Thanks!
Interested (one).
Add me to the list thanks
Interested in two.
Thank You
I’d like to take one.
NOT IN, but watching!
The Cycle of Goodness: “No one prospers without rendering benefit to others”
- The YKK Philosophy
In for one!
I`m in for one please.
..If it’s possible to use XHP70.2 final ?
Please, put me down for one. Thx.
Put me down for one please. Thanks!
Regards, Hardware
Dang this topic dropped of the front pages fast, a shame so here you go with a bump
Love the L6 anti roll cutouts smacked on a S70/Jax Hunter head. You guys took the two popular XHP70 lights and used the one with the best cooling properties (good!)
For all the Convoy fans using a clear design feature of the L series, very smart.
I can’t recall what brand uses that diamond tube, something with pineapple in torch name
Clever clever!
It is done when it is done
How my BLF Specials generally work, please read before asking Qs
The Q8, Exciting a groupbuy for a Premium BLF special high lumens soda can light!
The GT, A BLF special GIGA thrower
The FW3A, a TLF BLF special small, elegant, powerful triple
Lithium Ion safety 101 important read
Sorry grammarlovers, I am a real King Typo.
I`m in for one please.
I already have the L6, but i cant let this pass. Put me two please.
FL Newbie
I’m in for one.
I’ve seen thermal imaging tests taken as a light was turned on and in the first seconds as the heat made it’s way through the heat sink. They said the pattern was almost exactly an inversion of the light coming out the front, so if you consider the light out the top as the top half of an X and the heat out from under the emitter as the bottom half of this X, you see where the heat needs to go for fast and immediate dispersal.
Having fins on the head, up by the reflector, is simply not efficient. Sure, eventually those fins will transfer some heat to the surrounding air, but the light has to get saturated first, allowing the emitter to sit in it’s own heat for far too long a period.
Deep fins in the expanding cone of thermal path would be most effective. And yes, if aesthetic fins on the head need to be figured in then the pill and head should ideally be one piece for effective saturation transfer.
The centering ring is almost always made of a plastic material, effectively insulating the heavy aluminum reflector against drawing heat away from the mcpcb or substrate. Would be nice if this large piece of aluminum were to be optimally mated to the head and a copper centering ring used to allow effective contact for thermal expansion into the upper part of the head/reflector to aid the lower heat sink. My 2 cents.
Reminded me of this guy:
Now carrying the FW3A
Some 4 or 5 years back, the Solarforce S2200 and S1100 had that large diamond knurling.
The Solarforce had the diamonds as squares, so not quite the same thing. The MecArmy PT16 is also similar…
At any rate, it’s a nice grip platform to be sure, especially on the larger diameter battery tube’s such as this.
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