My Convoy L6, lighted switch, TA FET driver plus mods

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JasonWW
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steel_1024 wrote:
Thanks

I plan to use NarsilM (2S) for XHP70.2.

I am not able to modify the firmware code.

Which one is better?


Which is better between what? V1.2 and v1.4 or do you mean both of them compared to M?

1.2 and 1.4 are equally good, they just have different options. Narsil M is supposed to have the ability to let you assign pin 7 so you can choose between temperature sensors or lvp. I’m not an expert in Narsil and the M version was not ready yet when I ordered my drivers.

Is Lexel making you one? If so, I would ask him which version suits your needs.

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I understand “Indicator LED” and “Power on LED” now.

I can flash my own firmware.

I’m just a little confused in these versions.

So still have to study these (Narsil) information. And to enhance my English understanding.

Thank You!

Sorry for my poor english.

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You can learn a lot more here than from me.

Narsil M thread

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Tom E wrote:

NarsilM has LVP and thermal step down for 2S setups.

For this case, The inducator led works still?

and

LVP is set by R1/R2?

Sorry for my poor english.

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steel_1024 wrote:
Tom E wrote:

NarsilM has LVP and thermal step down for 2S setups.

For this case, The inducator led works still?

and

LVP is set by R1/R2?


I have no idea. You need to ask Tom or Lexel, etc…

JasonWW wrote:
You can learn a lot more here than from me.

Narsil M thread

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if 2S LVP is set by R1/R2 the MCU pin is blocked by this voltage divider, so no indicator LED feature in firmware NarsilM active

still you can light your sideswitch over the battery voltage, but without overdischarge protection as you directly drain the battery

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Lexel wrote:

still you can light your sideswitch over the battery voltage, but without overdischarge protection as you directly drain the battery

This is true on any light (unless the indicator light was monitored by the LVP circuit), but I don’t think this is really an issue. I mainly use the sideswitch light to tell me if the rear switch is on or off. If I’m not using the light, I turn off the rear switch so there is zero drain.
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could you upload your pictures to another hosting source not blocking 3. party use?

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Lexel wrote:
could you upload your pictures to another hosting source not blocking 3. party use?

Once I find the time, I’ll look for a new hosting site.

I’ve got a couple thousand pics, so it’s going to take a while.

Recently Photobuckets website has been super slow due to all the people pulling their pictures off. I was able to get a few hundred, but gave up.

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Hey Jason

can you post your side switch led with resistor?

tempting to mod mine too

Nico -.-

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Photos are not linked?

Sorry for my poor english.

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steel_1024 wrote:
Photos are not linked?

JasonWW wrote:
Lexel wrote:
could you upload your pictures to another hosting source not blocking 3. party use?

Once I find the time, I’ll look for a new hosting site.

I’ve got a couple thousand pics, so it’s going to take a while.

Recently Photobuckets website has been super slow due to all the people pulling their pictures off. I was able to get a few hundred, but gave up.


I’m trying Imgur and it seems okay, but not great.
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Okay, due to high interest, I was able to get all the pics loaded up to Imgur. Holy cow, it took over an hour to do it. Maybe paying $400 a year to turn Photobucket back on is not such a bad deal. Lol

Just kidding.

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Yea Imgur has become rediculous to upload pictures every since the photo bucket hosting price explosion.

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Joey Adams wrote:
Yea Imgur has become rediculous to upload pictures.

In what way do you mean?

My complaint has to do with the folder structure. With Imgur, you can load a bunch of pics into a folder, but the folder has no thumbnail view. If I want to find a certain picture, I open the folder and then have to scroll down a super long page of full sized pics.

With Photobucket, they had thumbnails to easily find the picture I’m looking for.

I’m not sure, but I suspect that Imgur just dumps all your pictures into your account and lets you organize them in folders. You can delete a folder, but the images stay. IDK, it seems weird.

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All I know is that it seems to be much slower uploading than before the changes with photo bucket. It seems almost that the servers are overloaded

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I finally decided to install my new xhp70.2 (P2-1D) cool white emitter. First I had to upgrade the bypass wire in my tail spring as the copper braid kept burning through.

I’m getting 17.3 amps once it stabilizes after 15 to 20 seconds. Pretty impressive using the Liitokala blue cells.

I apparently didn’t do a ceiling bounce measurement after adding the TA Fet driver. Using the stock driver with R100 added gave me 350 lumen in a ceiling bounce, so I know the new driver with old xhp70 would be well above that. This new 70.2 shocked me with a 740 lumen at turn on and about 700 lumen after it started to stabilize after 20 seconds or so. That’s double! If the stock driver with R100 is about 3800 lumen, I’m guessing I’m well over 7,000 lumen now.

The yellow corona is not too bad in this cool white tint. At least not at the higher brightness levels. I can probably get used to it. The 50.2 in 5700K that I tried out was definitely more yellow and I did not like it.

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The new 70.2 does have less of a donut hole pattern. It’s not gone completely, but much better than the xhp70.

The first 2 photos below are a direct comparison of the 70 and 70.2 on my L6 with the same reflector height.

.

If I move my reflector away from the emitter just a little, the donut hole reduces more. See below.

Now when you look at these lights without the lower exposure, the donut shapes are much harder to see. The hotspot of the 70.2, which is shimmed out looks really smooth and has sharply defined edges.

Here are the same 3 photos as above, but normal exposure values.

I’ve only had the 70.2 in my light a few days and the batteries are already running down. It seems like I’m getting less than half the run time compared to the xhp70. I’m not using it much at full output, then again, maybe I do have it adjusted a bit brighter than the xhp70. I typically go full power then drop it down a little. That way I’m getting close to full brightness, but with noticably less heat. I’ll report back on the battery usage in a week or two. First impressions are it can can suck batteries dry quick! Lol

UPDATE: Battery usage is pretty normal. I guess I was just blasting stuff with full power too often. Lol

I also did some distance measurements. At 1 meter I got 172 kcd or 830m. Based on my old throw distances I was expecting more, but I have to remember that this is a “dome on” 70.2. Slicing the dome on my old xhp70 gave a 24% boost. That’s a lot. In theory it would take my 172 kcd up to 213 kcd and throw would go up to 923 meters. Personally I prefer a bigger hotspot with more lumens so I’m not gonna slice it.

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@JasonWW: what is the sense resistor dimension being used by the FX30 driver?

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rizky_p wrote:
@JasonWW: what is the sense resistor dimension being used by the FX30 driver?

It’s right here. 3.2mm by 1.6mm 1/4 watt. I’m not sure what the 1206 refers to. Either number works.

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It’s 3216 or 1206. It’s the same dimension, one is in metric, other in imperial.
3.2 mm * 1.6 mm or 0.126 in * 0.063 in

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JasonWW wrote:
rizky_p wrote:
@JasonWW: what is the sense resistor dimension being used by the FX30 driver?

It’s right here. 3.2mm by 1.6mm 1/4 watt. I’m not sure what the 1206 refers to. Either number works.

thanks, i’ll order some resistor and try to boost the current on my L6 a little.

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rizky_p wrote:

thanks, i’ll order some resistor and try to boost the current on my L6 a little.

I think i’ll post my question here Jason.

well i ended up ordering TA driver everything went well, the only thing that i haven’t done is the indicator LED, i am still waiting on translucent side button from simon. i’ll ask when i hit a snag, but basically the unused 2 pads at the back of the switch board each one powers each LEDs so i just supply + to each unused pad?

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rizky_p wrote:
rizky_p wrote:

thanks, i’ll order some resistor and try to boost the current on my L6 a little.

I think i’ll post my question here Jason.

well i ended up ordering TA driver everything went well, the only thing that i haven’t done is the indicator LED, i am still waiting on translucent side button from simon. i’ll ask when i hit a snag, but basically the unused 2 pads at the back of the switch board each one powers each LEDs so i just supply + to each unused pad?


That’s correct. You can split the wire to run to each or use one wire and add a bridge to the other pad.

Didn’t you just ask about how to remove the side switch cover? I’m wondering if you added the LEDs yet?

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So i just use the cable provided by Lexel (the one with 472 resistor soldered)?

Yeah i did ask about removing the side switch on Lexel’s thread, but i managed to figure it out myself by try and error.

btw. with full battery it draws 10.5A not sure how many lumens that is.

oh i forgot what wire gauge is recommended and still fits the hole in the board?

JasonWW wrote:

That’s correct. You can split the wire to run to each or use one wire and add a bridge to the other pad.

Didn’t you just ask about how to remove the side switch cover? I’m wondering if you added the LEDs yet?

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rizky_p wrote:
So i just use the cable provided by Lexel (the one with 472 resistor soldered)?

Yeah i did ask about removing the side switch on Lexel’s thread, but i managed to figure it out myself by try and error.

btw. with full battery it draws 10.5A not sure how many lumens that is.

oh i forgot what wire gauge is recommended and still fits the hole in the board?

JasonWW wrote:

That’s correct. You can split the wire to run to each or use one wire and add a bridge to the other pad.

Didn’t you just ask about how to remove the side switch cover? I’m wondering if you added the LEDs yet?


It’s supposed to be a 4700 ohm resistor. 47 then a 2 with a line under it. An actual 472 would burn out the led. Since you plan to run 2 leds in parallel you might want a 10k to 30k resistor.

What emitter and batteries are you using? How are you measuring?

18ga silicone wires fits and will give high output.

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JasonWW wrote:
I’m wondering if you added the LEDs yet?

No I haven’t, since i dont have the translucent switch yet but I will solder the led tomorrow.

JasonWW wrote:

It’s supposed to be a 4700 ohm resistor. 47 then a 2 with a line under it. An actual 472 would burn out the led. Since you plan to run 2 leds in parallel you might want a 10k to 30k resistor.

What emitter and batteries are you using? How are you measuring?

18ga silicone wires fits and will give high output.

I am still using the original Convoy L6 NW emitter and Efest 4200mah batteries (metallic purple). Measured using a single piece of 11cm 10awg cable at the tail and DC clamp meter (Uni-T UT210e)

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rizky_p wrote:

I am still using the original Convoy L6 NW emitter and Efest 4200mah batteries (metallic purple). Measured using a single piece of 11cm 10awg cable at the tail and DC clamp meter (Uni-T UT210e)

Okay, that sounds about right. I was getting about 12 amps with my liitokala cells. Those efest may be costing you a little, but no big deal. The NW is always going to be lower lumens than CW, so I’d guess about 5,000 lumen. CW should be about 5,500, so I knocked the output down a little to compensate.
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Yeah i am really happy the way it is now. i think going higher would just produces more heat with little increase in lumens. Throw was 78kcd and now 99kcd. not bad i think.

Oh i forgot to tell you that i am using a thin 24gauge LED silicon wire as i need to lengthen the cable so that the driver is easier to work with and i dont have smaller than 16ga, could that also cost me amps?

JasonWW wrote:
rizky_p wrote:
I am still using the original Convoy L6 NW emitter and Efest 4200mah batteries (metallic purple). Measured using a single piece of 11cm 10awg cable at the tail and DC clamp meter (Uni-T UT210e)
Okay, that sounds about right. I was getting about 12 amps with my liitokala cells. Those efest may be costing you a little, but no big deal. The NW is always going to be lower lumens than CW, so I’d guess about 5,000 lumen. CW should be about 5,500, so I knocked the output down a little to compensate.
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rizky_p wrote:

Oh i forgot to tell you that i am using a thin 24gauge LED silicon wire as i need to lengthen the cable so that the driver is easier to work with and i dont have smaller than 16ga, could that also cost me amps?

Yeah, that can do it.

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