My Convoy L6, lighted switch, TA FET driver plus mods

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rizky_p
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JasonWW wrote:
Yeah, that can do it.

Thanks for the Help Jason. Thumbs Up

My convoy L6 does feels like Giant D4 now.

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rizky_p wrote:
JasonWW wrote:
Yeah, that can do it.

Thanks for the Help Jason. Thumbs Up

My convoy L6 does feels like Giant D4 now.


There’s a lot more features though. Like memory in ramping mode. Did the D4 have batt check, 3 fast clicks? I like that one.

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rizky_p
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JasonWW wrote:
There’s a lot more features though. Like memory in ramping mode. Did the D4 have batt check, 3 fast clicks? I like that one.

Jason i wonder do you ever sleep? i just woke up few hours ago and fetch kids to school and here you are still answering question. Big Smile

Got to try that memory in ramping mode thingy I read the narsilM manual, but to be honest i am rather bewildered i am sure i’ll get the hang of it someday and yeah D4 also have batt check since it is basically a scaled down narsilM right?

As far as ramping and normal operation goes it feel similar to D4, i just feels that D4 output is severely limited by its size i dont have that feeling with Convoy L6.

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rizky_p wrote:
JasonWW wrote:
There’s a lot more features though. Like memory in ramping mode. Did the D4 have batt check, 3 fast clicks? I like that one.

Jason i wonder do you ever sleep? i just woke up few hours ago and fetch kids to school and here you are still answering question. Big Smile

Got to try that memory in ramping mode thingy I read the narsilM manual, but to be honest i am rather bewildered i am sure i’ll get the hang of it someday and yeah D4 also have batt check since it is basically a scaled down narsilM right?

As far as ramping and normal operation goes it feel similar to D4, i just feels that D4 output is severely limited by its size i dont have that feeling with Convoy L6.


I usually sleep days and work nights. Plus it’s my day off so nothing much to do.

A lot of stuff was cut off of the D4 firmware. Memory in ramping is exactly what you think. You turn on the light, adjust to the brightness you want, then turn off light. Next time you turn it on, it’s at the same level. I tend to use both of my sig lights at about 75% (?) of turbo. It’s almost full brightness, but run cooler and last longer. After that’s it’s click on, bam, click off. Over and over again.

I do security work at night, so I’m always using my lights.

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Here’s my video on changing settings in NarsilM.

https://youtu.be/xrwP3gG0I_A

Here’s my video showing a few basic narsil stuff.

https://youtu.be/F_Vm5mq99TQ

I’m gonna do another video showing all the features of Narsil soon.

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rizky_p
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JasonWW wrote:

I usually sleep days and work nights. Plus it’s my day off so nothing much to do.

A lot of stuff was cut off of the D4 firmware. Memory in ramping is exactly what you think. You turn on the light, adjust to the brightness you want, then turn off light. Next time you turn it on, it’s at the same level. I tend to use both of my sig lights at about 75% (?) of turbo. It’s almost full brightness, but run cooler and last longer. After that’s it’s click on, bam, click off. Over and over again.

I do security work at night, so I’m always using my lights.

ah i see no wonder Big Smile ,
I guess you have a perfect job for the hobby and that L6 sure fits the job nicely, i never found a really useful stuffs for my lights as i lives in the urban area and every corners are nicely lit up, i need to make an excuse to use them Innocent

btw. my TA driver doesn’t have “indicator light” feature as the pin is currently use as voltage reference so i just use the LED side button instead as power on indicator just like you did. Now few more weeks for my transparent side switch from Simon to arrived.

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JasonWW wrote:
Here’s my video on changing settings in NarsilM.

the one using Supfire helps a lot.

thanks.

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rizky_p wrote:

btw. my TA driver doesn’t have “indicator light” feature as the pin is currently use as voltage reference so i just use the LED side button instead as power on indicator just like you did.

Yeah, I forget why sometimes. It’s because the 2S design needs that extra leg on the mcu to read actual battery voltage (not the lower voltage the LDO produces for the mcu to operate on). Jeez this stuff is technical. Lol

You can give up low voltage protection to have the indicator feature, but that’s not smart. Lvp is more important.

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JasonWW wrote:

You can give up low voltage protection to have the indicator feature, but that’s not smart. Lvp is more important.

yeah that is true but you know we like LED even the small one. Wink

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rizky_p wrote:
JasonWW wrote:

You can give up low voltage protection to have the indicator feature, but that’s not smart. Lvp is more important.

yeah that is true but you know we like LED even the small one. Wink


I didn’t say LED, I said “indicator” feature. You can still have basic LEDs for the switch, but you don’t need the fancy programmable switch LEDs.

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Thank you, JasonWW

XHP70.2 5000K

moon

moon

Sorry for my poor english.

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Very cool. I see you chose the thickest part of the switch hole to file your grooves in. The top and bottom are thinnest and a lot quicker and easier to file. No big deal, though.

Also, be prepared for people to try and buy it from you. Lol

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i did try filing the switch hole but found out that the one i tried was thick so i cancel that, didn’t know there is a thinner part.

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rizky_p wrote:
i did try filing the switch hole but found out that the one i tried was thick so i cancel that, didn’t know there is a thinner part.

I thought I mentioned it, but I might not have. Anyway, I updated my original post with that information.

It’s very easy and quick to file the top and bottom lips because they are very thin. Check this pic to see how thin it is.

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rizky_p
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JasonWW wrote:
I thought I mentioned it, but I might not have. Anyway, I updated my original post with that information.

ok i just add the SMD LED on the side switch pcd i am using 1206 SMD LED, now all i need to do is to wait for transparent side button.
I am using 8.7K resistor with parasitic draw at the tail of about 0.8mA, with 4200mah battery this should last for about 7 months and still plenty bright at night.

thanks for all the help .

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nice work guys.

going to do my switch this weekend

Nico -.-

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Where did you get the lighted switch pcb?

Looking for options to do this with the GT.

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stock light PCB already have the slots for 1206 SMD LED Big Smile

Nico -.-

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I also build a clear L6 with XHP70.2 and TA driver, SMO reflector and lighted side switch. Insanely bright! Aaaand Hot!

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ZozzV6 wrote:
I also build a clear L6 with XHP70.2 and TA driver, SMO reflector and lighted side switch. Insanely bright! Aaaand Hot!

Do you happen to have the lumen and lux ? Thanks

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i thing i’ll get an SMO reflector but does 70.2 worth it?

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Newlumen wrote:
Do you happen to have the lumen and lux ? Thanks

7740 lumens and 145700 Cd at 17,2A
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rizky_p wrote:
i thing i’ll get an SMO reflector but does 70.2 worth it?

I’m not sure what you’re asking here but the Smo reflector basically just focuses it a little better to give you a smaller hotspot and more throw. You practicaly can’t see any dark center with the Smo and 70.2. You only see it in photos if you reduce the exposure.

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What i meant was, the SMO is cheap and will increase throw, and the 70.2 is around $13 but will it increase lumens with the same current draw? At the end both will increase candela. I know that 70.2 have better high current handling and less prominent cross.

JasonWW wrote:
rizky_p wrote:
i thing i’ll get an SMO reflector but does 70.2 worth it?
I’m not sure what you’re asking here but the Smo reflector basically just focuses it a little better to give you a smaller hotspot and more throw. You practicaly can’t see any dark center with the Smo and 70.2. You only see it in photos if you reduce the exposure.
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rizky_p wrote:
What i meant was, the SMO is cheap and will increase throw, and the 70.2 is around $13 but will it increase lumens with the same current draw? At the end both will increase candela. I know that 70.2 have better high current handling and less prominent cross.

JasonWW wrote:
rizky_p wrote:
i thing i’ll get an SMO reflector but does 70.2 worth it?

I’m not sure what you’re asking here but the Smo reflector basically just focuses it a little better to give you a smaller hotspot and more throw. You practicaly can’t see any dark center with the Smo and 70.2. You only see it in photos if you reduce the exposure.

Okay, so you currently have the OP and xhp70. I thought you already had the 70.2.

I’m kinda iffy on the 70.2. You don’t get more output at the same current, but you do get that extra turbo output (from 12 amps up to 17 amps) at the expense of more heat and quicker battery drain. I definitely prefer the color of the cool white xhp70 to the cool white of the 70.2.

I bought these parts to try and build a thrower out of the L6. Why are you asking about them, are you also trying to get more distance?

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JasonWW wrote:
I’m kinda iffy on the 70.2. You don’t get more output at the same current, but you do get that extra turbo output (from 12 amps up to 17 amps) at the expense of more heat and quicker battery drain. I definitely prefer the color of the cool white xhp70 to the cool white of the 70.2. I bought these parts to try and build a thrower out of the L6. Why are you asking about them, are you also trying to get more distance?

yeah that is what i meant. With current setup (TA driver, OP reflector, XHP70 and 10.5A draws) i only got 99kcd so i was wondering if 70.2 would make much different.

oh btw does 70.2 have lower forward voltage? was the 17A draw possible because of that? hmm that is interesting.

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rizky_p wrote:
JasonWW wrote:
I’m kinda iffy on the 70.2. You don’t get more output at the same current, but you do get that extra turbo output (from 12 amps up to 17 amps) at the expense of more heat and quicker battery drain. I definitely prefer the color of the cool white xhp70 to the cool white of the 70.2. I bought these parts to try and build a thrower out of the L6. Why are you asking about them, are you also trying to get more distance?

yeah that is what i meant. With current setup (TA driver, OP reflector, XHP70 and 10.5A draws) i only got 99kcd so i was wondering if 70.2 would make much different.

oh btw does 70.2 have lower forward voltage? was the 17A draw possible because of that? hmm that is interesting.


Yes, it has lower forward voltage which is why you get higher amps when used with a fet driver.

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JasonWW wrote:
Yes, it has lower forward voltage which is why you get higher amps when used with a fet driver.

Nice. i might be getting XHP70.2 and give it a try and put my old XHP70 in a different light.

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Hi Jason,
thanks for the lighted side SW tutorial.
Ordered the L6 Fet driver from MtnE a couple weeks ago with the D4 firmware. I got 10.1A after 30sec in my DMM.
Only had some 3.3K ohm resistors so I made a series cluster of 4 and shrink wrapped it. Think it was 12.8K ohm. Side SW Purple (kinda blue) LEDs are pulling about 0.5mA. Perfect at night and still see a glow indoors.


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vwpieces wrote:
Hi Jason,
thanks for the lighted side SW tutorial.
Ordered the L6 Fet driver from MtnE a couple weeks ago with the D4 firmware. I got 10.1A after 30sec in my DMM.
Only had some 3.3K ohm resistors so I made a series cluster of 4 and shrink wrapped it. Think it was 12.8K ohm. Side SW Purple (kinda blue) LEDs are pulling about 0.5mA. Perfect at night and still see a glow indoors.

Cool. I didn’t know Richard started offering the D4 firmware for that driver.

Does it have the memory feature?

Does it have dedicated pads for a switch light or did you just run it to driver positive and negative?

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