My Convoy L6, lighted switch, TA FET driver plus mods

122 posts / 0 new
Last post
vwpieces
vwpieces's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 weeks 1 day ago
Joined: 07/17/2016 - 19:49
Posts: 2165
Location: PA, USA

JasonWW wrote:
vwpieces wrote:
Hi Jason,
thanks for the lighted side SW tutorial.
Ordered the L6 Fet driver from MtnE a couple weeks ago with the D4 firmware. I got 10.1A after 30sec in my DMM.
Only had some 3.3K ohm resistors so I made a series cluster of 4 and shrink wrapped it. Think it was 12.8K ohm. Side SW Purple (kinda blue) LEDs are pulling about 0.5mA. Perfect at night and still see a glow indoors.

Cool. I didn’t know Richard started offering the D4 firmware for that driver.

Does it have the memory feature?

Does it have dedicated pads for a switch light or did you just run it to driver positive and negative?

Think he has the D4 listed now on a lot of DD drivers. It works well on the 2S I have to say.
Yes memory works and Batt check… 8 blinks… 4 blinks. LVP works but haven’t got too deep into the other SHtuff.
E-SW does have dedicated pads on driver but not marked + or -, so if you are going to used 1206 LEDs on the E-SW pad you gotta make sure you get it probed out. Follow your pictorial from there. Neg will show continuity to the outer ring. There was a tiny pad close to the POS wire hole that showed continuity to the + wire so I used it. No components there…
Sorry I didn’t take any pics of the driver. Richard actually has a good pic of the component side of the driver in his listing. I don’t want to use his bandwidth here.

OD of the driver was a tight fit. Had to file it slightly and after a few tries, I just hit it in with a flat punch. Big Smile

I wonder how the D4 reacts to a lighted tail SW? I would think it may not care… might give it a go if I have a 20mm board… No joy on the 20mm and I can not order anything any more due to my situation.

Oh, and for this occasion I put my SMO reflector back in. Wasn’t fond of the pattern initially wile stock or resistor mod. it is different now on turbo.

rizky_p
rizky_p's picture
Offline
Last seen: 14 hours 22 min ago
Joined: 03/01/2011 - 05:06
Posts: 1002
Location: Indonesia

Update: Arrived Big Smile

waiting for my clear side button
LEDtec
Offline
Last seen: 4 months 4 weeks ago
Joined: 05/10/2013 - 13:24
Posts: 85
Location: Italia

I’m looking for the clear side button , I can not contact Simon, can anyone help me?

rizky_p
rizky_p's picture
Offline
Last seen: 14 hours 22 min ago
Joined: 03/01/2011 - 05:06
Posts: 1002
Location: Indonesia

did you contact Simon @aliexpress? it took me 3 days before i got a response.

LEDtec wrote:
I’m looking for the clear side button , I can not contact Simon, can anyone help me?
LEDtec
Offline
Last seen: 4 months 4 weeks ago
Joined: 05/10/2013 - 13:24
Posts: 85
Location: Italia

answer by Simon just received, all resolved thanks.

Nicolicous
Nicolicous's picture
Online
Last seen: 1 min 18 sec ago
Joined: 04/16/2016 - 08:28
Posts: 1436
Location: Australia

Hey Jason

so i got Lexel driver and got eveything to work except the LED indicator.

Im using stock Convoy side switch but unsure the trace + and -

Nico -.-

JasonWW
JasonWW's picture
Offline
Last seen: 16 min 46 sec ago
Joined: 10/22/2016 - 11:41
Posts: 11128
Location: Houston Texas

Nicolicous wrote:
Hey Jason

so i got Lexel driver and got eveything to work except the LED indicator.

Im using stock Convoy side switch but unsure the trace + and -



So you added a led and clear cover to see it?

The switch pcb has a common ground wire shared between led pads and the switch, so all you have to do is run power to the led through a resistor. Post #6 shows all this.

Are you using NarsilM or the older Narsil?
Only NarsilM can actually use the indicator function on the 2S drivers due to one of the mcu legs being able to switch between voltage monitoring and temperature sensing. The older Narsil could not switch and it needed 2 legs.

Nicolicous
Nicolicous's picture
Online
Last seen: 1 min 18 sec ago
Joined: 04/16/2016 - 08:28
Posts: 1436
Location: Australia

im confuse whether i should follow your method in this photo or the photo above Shocked

Nico -.-

JasonWW
JasonWW's picture
Offline
Last seen: 16 min 46 sec ago
Joined: 10/22/2016 - 11:41
Posts: 11128
Location: Houston Texas

Nicolicous wrote:

im confuse whether i should follow your method in this photo or the photo above Shocked


It’s the same.

If you want switch light on all the time, do orange.

If you want “indicator” function, do the purple.

Regardless of which you choose, you need to do the red and blue.

JasonWW
JasonWW's picture
Offline
Last seen: 16 min 46 sec ago
Joined: 10/22/2016 - 11:41
Posts: 11128
Location: Houston Texas

Nicolicous wrote:
Hey Jason

so i got Lexel driver and got eveything to work except the LED indicator.

Im using stock Convoy side switch but unsure the trace + and -



Lexel just reminded me that on the 2S drivers you have to choose between the lvp or the indicator feature. I forgot about this. If you chose LVP then the indicator feature won’t work. You’ll have to wire it to driver power so it’s on all the time. Meaning the switch light will go out when the tail switch is off.
ZozzV6
ZozzV6's picture
Offline
Last seen: 21 min 48 sec ago
Joined: 03/24/2016 - 12:19
Posts: 2280
Location: Near to my soldering iron.

Or you did not solder 7135-s on the spring side and use their atmel pin to control indicator led and the driver works as a fet+1 two channel driver. But it need some change in the firmware too.

JasonWW
JasonWW's picture
Offline
Last seen: 16 min 46 sec ago
Joined: 10/22/2016 - 11:41
Posts: 11128
Location: Houston Texas

ZozzV6 wrote:
Or you did not solder 7135-s on the spring side and use their atmel pin to control indicator led and the driver works as a fet+1 two channel driver. But it need some change in the firmware too.

That kind of change is more in Lexels territory.
netprince
Offline
Last seen: 5 hours 55 min ago
Joined: 06/14/2012 - 13:48
Posts: 517
Location: Virginia

Hey JasonWW, just found your thead… I want to do something similar to your xhp50.2 with the smooth reflector…

How did you cut the reflector without messing up the finish?

Where did you get the screws to clamp down the emitter… (I have already stripped the heads of the one that came with my light)

Thanks!

JasonWW
JasonWW's picture
Offline
Last seen: 16 min 46 sec ago
Joined: 10/22/2016 - 11:41
Posts: 11128
Location: Houston Texas

netprince wrote:
Hey JasonWW, just found your thead… I want to do something similar to your xhp50.2 with the smooth reflector…

How did you cut the reflector without messing up the finish?

Where did you get the screws to clamp down the emitter… (I have already stripped the heads of the one that came with my light)

Thanks!


Are you sure you want to go with the xhp50.2? It’s kind of lacking in output compared to the xhp70.2. I only tried it because it was new and the xhp70.2 had not come out yet.

Did you strip the head or the threads? You need the threads.

I took the stock screw down to my local Ace hardware and got a longer version. Then I screwed it in to see where the threads stop. Then I cut the screws to length.

For the reflector I used what I had handy. A wood router with a metal cutting bit. I put the reflector big side down and put tape over the small hole. Then precisely set the depth and carefully cut all around the edge. Afterwards I used a file to smooth it out. Total Old Lumens style! Lol

Here’s a pic of the reflector almost fully cut.


.

netprince
Offline
Last seen: 5 hours 55 min ago
Joined: 06/14/2012 - 13:48
Posts: 517
Location: Virginia

thanks for the reply…

I chose the xhp50.2 for a little more throw over the xhp70.2.

If I can get the beam to look as good as yours I will be happy…

JasonWW
JasonWW's picture
Offline
Last seen: 16 min 46 sec ago
Joined: 10/22/2016 - 11:41
Posts: 11128
Location: Houston Texas

For those curious about the best way to remove the switch cover, a pair of snap ring pliers is your best friend. I have a set with multiple tips that can apply force in both directions. This style of plier (the blue one) can both squeeze together or squeeze apart.

They are only $4.99 at Harbor Freight Tools.

These are not super high quality, but I doubt you will use them very often. Every flashlight modder should have a set.

Etex wrote:

I use snap ring pliers to loosen bezel, then a toothpick to unthread. Some of these type of pliers have interchangable tips of different sizes.


.

Satan@103TFS
Offline
Last seen: 8 hours 28 min ago
Joined: 09/04/2017 - 12:51
Posts: 530

Hi JasonWW
I may miss something ,I will try this setup just what to know how many L/KCD for L6 with 70.2+SMO+R100 with stock driver..Thanks

JasonWW
JasonWW's picture
Offline
Last seen: 16 min 46 sec ago
Joined: 10/22/2016 - 11:41
Posts: 11128
Location: Houston Texas

Satan@103TFS wrote:
Hi JasonWW
I may miss something ,I will try this setup just what to know how many L/KCD for L6 with 70.2+SMO+R100 with stock driver..Thanks

Back when I was using the stock driver the 70.2 wasn’t out yet. By the time it was easy to get I had already switched to the FET driver.

So L6 with 70+SMO+R100 with stock driver and KeepPower 5200mah cells = 86,250 or 587 meters.

The KeepPower cells drew 5.7A. With Liitokala’s they drew 7A so you can get a boost right there. That might push it to 90kcd or more.

When switching to the 70.2 I would expect little to no boost in output. You would mainly get a smoother hot spot.

2100
Offline
Last seen: 9 months 1 week ago
Joined: 05/28/2011 - 10:28
Posts: 4512
Location: SINGAPORE

JasonWW wrote:

So L6 with 70+SMO+R100 with stock driver and KeepPower 5200mah cells = 86,250 or 587 meters.

The KeepPower cells drew 5.7A. With Liitokala’s they drew 7A so you can get a boost right there. That might push it to 90kcd or more.

When switching to the 70.2 I would expect little to no boost in output. You would mainly get a smoother hot spot.

Bro, came across your nice thread on the L6.

So can i confirm that if i were to just use a piece of short wire instead of the R100 resistor on the driver of a stock L6 XHP 70.2 version, i’d be able to get around 7+ amps 8 amps at the tailcap with 2S high-drain cells? Current stock driver is pumping out ~ 5-5.2 amps to the XHP 70.2? (not sure how many amps at the tail would that be). I am thinking of just using VTC6 and some 26650-> 18650 tubes, which ought to be sufficient in current delivery, just a bit lacking in the capacity.

The present Convoy L6 that i am getting direct from China is the “typical” one that people will be getting as well, that ver with spring bypass already installed and things like that.

Not sure why would i need a Convoy L6 for since i already have the BLF and Sofirn Q8s which serves all the needs very similarly, but apparently i have a present consolidation shipment from China and thus i can get it at a discouted usd 36. The host looks great, host head sinking capacity is sufficient for the weather that i get here, so i guess why not? Big Smile

Only thing is that it’s not going to be as pocket friendly as the 4 × 18650 soda cans, which are already not pocket friendly in the first place.

JasonWW
JasonWW's picture
Offline
Last seen: 16 min 46 sec ago
Joined: 10/22/2016 - 11:41
Posts: 11128
Location: Houston Texas

I’ve never tried the combo of a fully bypassed resistor stock driver with a 70.2. I tried it on a 50.2 and it drew way more than 8A. It was probably closer to 10A or 12A. This might be fine or it might eventually smoke the driver, I’m not sure. I didn’t have it in there very long or use turbo more than 20 seconds or so.

I would install the new emitter on the stock driver and see how many amps it’s pulling. Then maybe try a resistor swap.

Personally I don’t like the stock driver. It’s much nicer being able to turn the light on and off with the side switch.

I really don’t like the short and fat Q8 sized lights. There’s no easy way to carry them unless you have a a big holster that sticks way out. With the L6 I can just slip the tail-end of the light into my back pocket and carry it just fine. I carried 2 D cell Maglite like that for many many years.

2100
Offline
Last seen: 9 months 1 week ago
Joined: 05/28/2011 - 10:28
Posts: 4512
Location: SINGAPORE

I see, it was for a 50.2 and not a 70.2. I guess it might be a bit too much for the driver + 70.2 then. even if say we’d be able to do 7k lumens with the 70.2.

I’m not really electronically trained, so definitely the resistor soldering isn’t for me. I’m looking for a nice boost from 5A of the Convoy driver to maybe 9-10A at most, as per TA’s review on the 70.2 in which he already has excellent heatsinking.

JasonWW
JasonWW's picture
Offline
Last seen: 16 min 46 sec ago
Joined: 10/22/2016 - 11:41
Posts: 11128
Location: Houston Texas

Now that I have my TA Lumen Tube and Maukka calibrated test light I’ve found that my L6 it putting out about 5300 lumen @ 30s drawing 17 to 18 amps. This is with 2 different 70.2 emitters, a 6500K and a 5700K. So don’t believe the hype of really high outputs. Maybe a 5000K NW will put out a bit more? I’m sure other folks might measure my L6 with higher lumens, but it’s just a number.

The best way I know to limit output is to use the protected KeepPower 5200 or 6000 battery. I’ve got the 5200 and even with a FET driver and a 70.2 it still limits current to 10A.

2100
Offline
Last seen: 9 months 1 week ago
Joined: 05/28/2011 - 10:28
Posts: 4512
Location: SINGAPORE

Thank you, that’s a good suggesion, i just might go find some cheap 18650 or 26650s that can do 8-10A thereabouts and do the sensing resistor bypass on the stock Convoy L6 driver.

Good enough for me, i’m not expecting too much with regards to having a flat regulated output from the low $$ that i need to spend on this, as the Sofirn Q8 w spring bypass is able to do it. This is just a “backup” if you will.

The XHP35 or XP-L HI throwers with 70mm heads don’t interest me, due to the lower lumens ie somewhat pencil beam limiting practicality in real life. And another issue is that spotty beam throwers attract the attention of the police here, actually more of the attention of residents here who would call the police. Sad Already had that happen with my 6000-8000 lumen 3.8M cd big HID. Facepalm No harm done of course, it was established that i was not pointing at planes or trying to disturb other residental or commercial dwellings from a distance, so no ticket for me. Facepalm

2100
Offline
Last seen: 9 months 1 week ago
Joined: 05/28/2011 - 10:28
Posts: 4512
Location: SINGAPORE

JasonWW wrote:

I really don’t like the short and fat Q8 sized lights. There’s no easy way to carry them unless you have a a big holster that sticks way out. With the L6 I can just slip the tail-end of the light into my back pocket and carry it just fine. I carried 2 D cell Maglite like that for many many years.

Hmm…that’s a good idea I need to try that out man! Big Smile I used to carry my 2 × 18650 50-70mm head lights (Olight M3X, Crelant throwers, Shadow TC6, Dereelight aspherics etc) in the side pockets with the head sticking out and it wasn’t exactly doable – the swinging hands are always hitting the head.

Geez why didn’t i think of that.

After which i went the soda can lights basically the triple XM-Ls like Skyray king, “DRY” direct drive pocket rocket and got used to it. Hence the love for Q8s.
I always tail stand them, so the shotter form factor is safer to a certain degree as the top heavy tall lights are more prone to toppling when knocked and could also scratch the surfaces of some things should they fall and roll off the table etc, unless if there is serious anti-roll surfaces on the light.

2100
Offline
Last seen: 9 months 1 week ago
Joined: 05/28/2011 - 10:28
Posts: 4512
Location: SINGAPORE
JasonWW wrote:
Now that I have my TA Lumen Tube and Maukka calibrated test light I’ve found that my L6 it putting out about 5300 lumen @ 30s drawing 17 to 18 amps. This is with 2 different 70.2 emitters, a 6500K and a 5700K. So don’t believe the hype of really high outputs.

Yeah, i know the deal, there is quite a loss with the consumer coated alu reflectors and then some more % with thick non-AR glass. 0 sec, 30sec, even 60 secs due to thermal management is also another matter. If we take 7k emitter lumens and your 5.3k lumens OTF then that loss is 25%, about right I guess.
As long as we take things in a relative way and know what to expect, we shd be fine.

That’s also why you always see me talking about pocket rockets and the hot weather here. Coz i have already experienced that many years ago. My DRY could do 3k OTF lumens no issue, first 5-10 seconds that is. The thermal interface isn’t as good as the Q8s as well.

That’s also why the ROT66, D4, D4S, MT09R/MT03, Nighwatcher NA40 and maybe even some Acebeams (I read that thermal regulation was with the light at what…165deg F? How to hold that, by the the tail?!) and stuff are not going to work here, the high outputs are semi-neuteured here, pay $$$ to walk 4 steps forwards and 3 steps backwards…..been there done that 8 years ago.

JasonWW
JasonWW's picture
Offline
Last seen: 16 min 46 sec ago
Joined: 10/22/2016 - 11:41
Posts: 11128
Location: Houston Texas

2100 wrote:
Thank you, that’s a good suggesion, i just might go find some cheap 18650 or 26650s that can do 8-10A thereabouts and do the sensing resistor bypass on the stock Convoy L6 driver.

You missed my point. Most protection circuitry will shut off power if you go beyond the rated cutoff. The KeepPower circuitry instead limits output to 10A instead of shutting off.

Using cheap or low performance batteries is a crap shoot. You don’t know what will happen.

JasonWW
JasonWW's picture
Offline
Last seen: 16 min 46 sec ago
Joined: 10/22/2016 - 11:41
Posts: 11128
Location: Houston Texas

2100 wrote:

Yeah, i know the deal, there is quite a loss with the consumer coated alu reflectors and then some more % with thick non-AR glass. 0 sec, 30sec, even 60 secs due to thermal management is also another matter. If we take 7k emitter lumens and your 5.3k lumens OTF then that loss is 25%, about right I guess.

You missed my point again. I was not refering to losses in the reflector or lens (it is AR coated btw). I was refering to the different devices and calibrations people have when measuring lumens.

For instance, I measure 5300 lumen OTF of my L6. Another person with a home made lumen tube that is not calibrated the same may measure my L6 at 7000 lumen OTF.

2100
Offline
Last seen: 9 months 1 week ago
Joined: 05/28/2011 - 10:28
Posts: 4512
Location: SINGAPORE

JasonWW wrote:
2100 wrote:
Thank you, that’s a good suggesion, i just might go find some cheap 18650 or 26650s that can do 8-10A thereabouts and do the sensing resistor bypass on the stock Convoy L6 driver.

You missed my point. Most protection circuitry will shut off power if you go beyond the rated cutoff. The KeepPower circuitry instead limits output to 10A instead of shutting off.

Using cheap or low performance batteries is a crap shoot. You don’t know what will happen.

Hmm… 2 × 18650 Keeppower 3500s would cost me usd 13 (assuming they are not fakes in the first place Beer )

I really meant “cheap” 18650s as in cheaper type of batts eg NCR18650A wrt to the top dogs, not Trustfire flames or what Big Smile No worries i know the safety aspects as i do RC and Lipos 6S 5000mAh packs etc.

Actually i do have some NCR18650A on hand now. They are supposed to be able to survive pretty much a dead short till 0 volts without venting. I believe there were some Callie Kustoms video on youtube years ago which did just that or something.
edit – or maybe they won’t go 8A without sagging the heck out. I’ll go do a further search, maybe some other Pannys.

Here….wow the vid is in 2011 how time flies!

2100
Offline
Last seen: 9 months 1 week ago
Joined: 05/28/2011 - 10:28
Posts: 4512
Location: SINGAPORE

JasonWW wrote:
2100 wrote:

Yeah, i know the deal, there is quite a loss with the consumer coated alu reflectors and then some more % with thick non-AR glass. 0 sec, 30sec, even 60 secs due to thermal management is also another matter. If we take 7k emitter lumens and your 5.3k lumens OTF then that loss is 25%, about right I guess.

You missed my point again. I was not refering to losses in the reflector or lens (it is AR coated btw). I was refering to the different devices and calibrations people have when measuring lumens.

For instance, I measure 5300 lumen OTF of my L6. Another person with a home made lumen tube that is not calibrated the same may measure my L6 at 7000 lumen OTF.

Ok, gotcha. Big Smile

Funtastic
Offline
Last seen: 5 hours 5 min ago
Joined: 06/26/2014 - 02:14
Posts: 275
Location: New Zealand

Why does Simon rate his L6 so high at 3800 lumens? Is he just basing that on what the emitter can achieve?

My stock neutral white L6 is only pushing 2800 lumens with Keeppower’s.

Advanced Knife Guy on youtube rated his at 3278. Didn’t think my calibrated TA lumen tube would result in so much difference. Glad I’ve got something near accurate though

Pages