Programming Utorch UT-01 / Manker E-11

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kramer5150
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Programming Utorch UT-01 / Manker E-11

Hi BLF-ers … thought I would take a moment to explain UT-01 and E-11 programming. Something that seems to go un-noticed in most YT reviews.

Cheers!!

Lexel
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you should also explain how to get the light changed from basic modes to the advanced setting

press and hold 5a, till it blinks 1 time for simple operation
and again press and hold 5s till it blinks 2 times for advanced settings you shown in the video

kramer5150
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Cool… I didn’t know it did that. Thanks for the tip.

patchythepirate
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I’ve had the UT01 since it’s release and had no idea it could do that, thanks! Thumbs Up

Kingjohn
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Thanks for this info!
I love this light. And this makes it even more useful!

d_t_a
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Would there be a “reset to factory setting” brightness level?

I’d like to try re-programming the UT01, but would like to reset it to ‘default values’ after testing out the various programming options.
eg. at default values: “moon” is likely the lowest brightness level. But which brightness level setting is medium and high? I suppose Turbo is simply the highest brightness available.

Also, does battery check work with both AA and 14500 or only on the lithium-ions?

kramer5150
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I don’t think you can set it back to factory program… AFIAK.
Battery level check works with all chemistry.

eas
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I’m pretty sure that factory setting for moon is not the lowest setting. I’d guess that they come from the factory set in the middle position for each mode, but I’m not 100% sure.

If you are sure you are the rational one(s), you aren’t.

d_t_a
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eas wrote:
I’m pretty sure that factory setting for moon is not the lowest setting. I’d guess that they come from the factory set in the middle position for each mode, but I’m not 100% sure.

Thanks. Possibly.

I tried to measure tailcap current with my uncalibrated Mastech MS8229 multimeter.

UT01 (neutral white) w/ PKCell ICR14500 (unfortunately I don’t have a better 14500 like IMR14500) – factory default:
lowest: 0.026A (factory default)
low: 0.13A (factory default)
med: 0.44A (factory default)
high: 1.30A (factory default)

and on UT01 (cool white) using the same PKCell ICR14500 (attached a tiny magnet to make it ‘button top’) — my UT01 CW’s head does not have good contact with the flat-top 14500; also I think I had accidentally reprogrammed it when I was trying out the programming method illustrated above (and I hadn’t measured tailcap current prior to that, but I reprogrammed the brightness level as follows):

lowest: 0.007A (programmed to “lowest” setting)
low: 0.107A (programmed to “lowest” setting)
med: 0.38A (programmed to “lowest” setting)
high: 1.56A (programmed to “highest” setting)

kramer5150
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d_t_a wrote:
eas wrote:
I’m pretty sure that factory setting for moon is not the lowest setting. I’d guess that they come from the factory set in the middle position for each mode, but I’m not 100% sure.

Thanks. Possibly.
.
.
.
and on UT01 (cool white) using the same PKCell ICR14500 (attached a tiny magnet to make it ‘button top’) — my UT01 CW’s head does not have good contact with the flat-top 14500; also I think I had accidentally reprogrammed it when I was trying out the programming method illustrated above (and I hadn’t measured tailcap current prior to that, but I reprogrammed the brightness level as follows):

lowest: 0.007A (programmed to “lowest” setting)
low: 0.107A (programmed to “lowest” setting)
med: 0.38A (programmed to “lowest” setting)
high: 1.56A (programmed to “highest” setting)

Cool thanks for measuring current draw. I have both of my lights programmed like the bold text above.

For kicks and giggles I tried to re-set the Manker E11 back to factory by turning off the deep-programming mode. But it just reverted back to my programmed modes above.

d_t_a
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Sorry, have to make some update, the previous readings were with the 14500 battery at 4.12v.

I freshly charged the battery to 4.20v and then made measurements again:

UT01 (neutral white) w/ PKCell ICR14500 – factory default:
lowest: 0.027A (factory default)
low: 0.133A (factory default)
med: 0.47A (factory default)
high: 1.38A (factory default)

(slight increase compared to above; they seem to match the readings from one of the UT01 review, except my ‘high’ is a bit low, I recall in giorgoskok’s UT01 review, he got 1.8-2.0A on ‘high’ with IMR 14500 battery)

and on UT01 (cool white) using the same PKCell ICR14500 (attached a tiny magnet to make it ‘button top’)
lowest: 0.007A (programmed to “lowest” setting)
low: 0.115A (programmed to “lowest” setting)
med: 0.40A (programmed to “lowest” setting)
high: 1.66A (programmed to “highest” setting)

(slight increase with a freshly charged battery, but ‘high’ is still not as high as the ’1.8-2.0A’ readings of one of the reviews; or maybe because I’m using tailcap current, while giorgoskok maybe uses a proper DC clamp ammeter?)

Also, the ‘high’ readings are a bit difficult to measure with my multi-meter because applying more pressure or adjusting slightly will alter the readings quickly..

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any idea on the current draw while using NiMh?
.
and possibly for all 3 options for the moon mode?

and on the first day he said "Let there be light"...

d_t_a
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DoubleA wrote:
any idea on the current draw while using NiMh? . and possibly for all 3 options for the moon mode?

With regards to moon mode, I don’t think my multimeter is accurate enough to do measurements precisely, the slightest movement seems to cause a different reading.

Even when measuring the Turbo/High modes, the readings are quite jumpy (seem to be more jumpy than when I’m measuring other flashlights’ tailcap current — possibly because the contact points of my UT01s are quite poor.) My UT01 CW arrived DoA without my ‘fixing’ with a piece of wire at the tailcap, and the “+” button side also fails to make contact properly/consistently with flat-top batteries. My UT01 NW also regularly fails to work on NiMh, I have to insert a 14500 battery first when this happens, then insert the NiMh to make it work).

But anyway, I used a new freshly charged Fujitsu/FDK AA NiMh:
as mentioned, the tailcap current readings are very jumpy, but both UT01 NW seems to have a high of around 3.1-3.2A while the UT01 CW seems to have a high of 3.3A (momentary). Usually it hovers around the the 2.4-2.9A, I’ve already tried to hold my hands as steadily as possible, but still jump current — likely due to the body tube contacts are not making contact properly.

DoubleA
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Ok, what kind of probes are you using? the usual pointy ones or the crocodile clip ones?

and on the first day he said "Let there be light"...

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I don’t have Turbo after beacon on mine… it keeps cycling between strobe-SOS-beacon Sad

"Hey -X3-, do you have a flashlight ?"   "-X3-, can I borrow one of your flashlights ?" 

My Flashlight public album (mods, emitter swaps, eye candy)

My reviews channel (French language, Olight, Thorfire : 30+ lights tested)

My personal channel (including Olight SR mini, S1, S2, S1A and S-mini disassembly)

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Lexel
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X3 wrote:
I don’t have Turbo after beacon on mine… it keeps cycling between strobe-SOS-beacon Sad

you need to change first between the 2 Mode groups

-X3-
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Lexel wrote:
X3 wrote:
I don’t have Turbo after beacon on mine… it keeps cycling between strobe-SOS-beacon Sad

you need to change first between the 2 Mode groups


Stoopid me Facepalm
Thank you, it works now Smile

"Hey -X3-, do you have a flashlight ?"   "-X3-, can I borrow one of your flashlights ?" 

My Flashlight public album (mods, emitter swaps, eye candy)

My reviews channel (French language, Olight, Thorfire : 30+ lights tested)

My personal channel (including Olight SR mini, S1, S2, S1A and S-mini disassembly)

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jon_slider
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Does the Thorfire TK05 w Sofirn driver also have programmable modes?

I followed the video, but a single click from strobe just turns the light off

I tried the 5s hold from off, and nothing happened, the light stayed off
I tried the 5s hold from on, and the light turned off

on my light meter the modes are 6-73-204 w eneloop