Sometime last year I started a triple build with an F13. Ran into some problems and got frustrated and put it down for a while. I just remembered it and figured I should just finish it, but now I recall what was frustrating me. I can’t get the MTN-22DD to work with 3-XPL wired in parallel. I thought I had screwed up the driver before which is why I put this thing on hold for a while. I reflowed everything and it works just fine when I connect a single XML. I thought I had fixed it after I reflowed it and tested with the XML. Then I connected the 32mm Noctigon and it’s back to where it was before. When I turn it on it goes to a low mode only. Once it quickly blipped onto high then went back to low again. I may just order a new one, but if I’m overlooking something simple I’d at least like to try to fix it first. Suggestions welcome. Thanks.
What firmware is on your 22DD? If it’s Bistro on an ATTiny 85 you may need to apply the “fix” at D1/C1 with a resistor between 2 ohm and 10 ohm.
I’m pretty sure I had guppydrv put on it. I was messing around with it a little more. For the most part it will just come on in a low mode. All of a sudden it will decide to scroll through some modes, but maybe once, then back to low only. Once it’s in high it will only stay there for maybe 2 seconds and will drop down. I can’t make heads or tails of it.
Is your 32mm board being grounded on the reflector? There are a lot of open pads on that board…
Nope, I have no optics on it at all. Honestly, I might have just screwed the driver up. I had shorted something out when I first got it, but after reflowing it was working fine. Just doesn’t want to work with my triple.
Umm what did you re-flow? The FET?
One of the 3 XP-L’s on the 32mm board could have a bridged solder contact underneath. It happens.
Got a picture of the 32mm board and the driver?
Any overcurrent/overtemp protection on the 22DD?
Yes, it’s got the standard R1/R2 resistor set-up. (Unless it’s got GuppyDrv, which steps down but never shuts off)
Mmm, so maybe 1 chip is fine. but 3 is overloading it?
Richard’s FET is a very carefully thought out rearrangement of Wight’s A17DD S08. The 22mm variant is essentially the 17mm driver on a larger board for lights that require the same. Whether you’re running one XP-G2 or 12 XHP-50’s, this driver will do the job. This I know for fact. For the most part, the step down to moon that Bistro experiences on Banggood FET drivers is a combination of layout and poor choice of components. Richard redesigned the layout and he uses top components. Shouldn’t have an issue. That’s not to say any driver can’t be induced to have an issue if something get’s shorted out during a build.
Without pictures of the layout, it’s really difficult to diagnose. The OP should probably contact Richard directly for the most pertinent information, as Richard has made THOUSANDS of his drivers…
As you can see looking at his 22DD, this pic taken from his site (I just built one myself the other day) Richard allows for a lot of options… with Zener pads in place as well as optional LDO pads for the best low parasitic drain scenario, this driver is indeed an ultimate MOSFET controlled driver.
I’d use a magnifying glass and look for a bit of loose wire, sometimes a single strand of wire can get loose and because it’s like a strand of hair it can be difficult to see. A small round ball of solder can also get loose and cause an issue. It just always pays when modding a light to closely inspect everything, especially if there’s an issue. Lord knows I’ve made my share of mistakes building flashlights… Richard likes to say I’m the ULTIMATE flashlight Guinea Pig, if there’s a remote chance that something can go wrong it will likely be me that finds it… 
Edit: I built this very driver for my Jaxman X1 last week. I used his 20mm board to build a Zener modified driver for my scratch build DBC-05 with triple XHP-50.2 emitters that pulls 25A at the tail for 11,971.5 lumens.
Thanks for the replies. Below is a pic of the Noctigon. I have no doubt the driver was working properly when I received it. What happened to it was my doing. I have guppydrv and it is the exact layout as in the pic DB posted above…same resistors as well. My first thought was maybe temp or thermal sensor, but I think these just have a turbo timer. If it’s been disconnected for a minute or so, I can quickly cycle through some modes, then it drops down and stays there until I let it sit for a while again. However, even when it does cycle through the modes, the high modes seem to flicker a bit.
I may just bite the bullet and purchase another. I wasn’t sure if someone might recognize the symptoms and be like, “Oh yeah, that means bad resistor xxx…just replace it and you’re good to go.”
Flickering is almost always a ground issue. 
No thermal step down on that driver unless you specifically asked Richard to add one and that would typically mean you’d have to put a thermal sensor on the mcpcb or somewhere inside the driver bay, so you should know if it’s there. Essentially it sounds like you might have a compound issue, maybe a slight ground and potentially a weak C1 capacitor. If heating it up causes the issue, it’s probably a weak component causing it.
In your shoes I’d definitely be talking to Richard, not only to fix your own issue but to let Richard know so he can be sure it’s not something that is affecting more of his builds… on the off chance he got a reel of weak caps or something like that.
I don’t see an issue on the Noctigon, you might double check to be sure there is no bridging at the contacts (especially there at the negative connection) but it all looks pretty good as far as I can tell.
What cell are you trying to use to power up the triple? There can be quite a few amps pulled on this set-up if all is well…