Tear Down: Manker E02

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Jerommel
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Tear Down: Manker E02

Hey all,

Just got my Manker E02 in, and it’s a lovely little light.

One little ‘problem’ though:

The camera didn’t catch it so i had to photoshop it, but this is the thing:
On the lowest mode the XP-G3 seems to have a darker area on the die / phosphor.
This gets less noticable on higher currents.

Besides that, the XP-G3 has some tint shift going on, making the centre of the beam quite a bit warmer.
Not abnormal in modern LEDs though, but i’m considering an emitter swap.
But maybe i’ll settle for a diffuser film.

Either way, i had to open it up, also to satisfy my (and your) curiosity.
This is as far as i could get:

Parts list:

- tailcap (PCB with spring and magnet on the bottom apparently glued in place)
- battery tube
- ‘light engine’ retainer ring.
- Light Engine (contact board, driver and LED board, copper heatsink)
- Head (with switch boot and its SS retaining ring)

- LED / reflector gasket
- Aluminum OP reflector
- O-ring
- Glass lens (not coated)
- Bezel (stainless steel, with its O-ring)

Close up of the Light Engine:

Big piece of copper there, nice.
Fits inside the head with some thermal grease.
The copper heat sink seems to protrude through the PCB, so that the LED thermal slug is soldered directly on to it.

I think it’s possible to swap the LED by heating the copper heat sink, but i’m not certain parts will not desolder themselves from the PCB when i try that… Facepalm

Edited by: Jerommel on 06/07/2017 - 12:59
LightRider
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Wow. Very interesting design. I’m kind of shocked they would go through the trouble of soldering the led directly to the pill.

Jerommel
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LightRider wrote:
Wow. Very interesting design. I’m kind of shocked they would go through the trouble of soldering the led directly to the pill.

I guess the pill (the copper piece) is ‘just another part’ on the back of the PCB, but going through the PCB too.
You can see on the close up there’s a piece of it sticking through between the C1 and R5 marking, on the left of the LED.
You can see a copper circle there.
I should add a picture with an attempt to capture the bit under the LED.
Maybe later.
sbslider
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I have not seen many (any?) tear downs of cheapish AAA lights, but this is impressive.

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Trevi_lux
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Thanks, nice pics. Very, very interesting, great aaa flashlight, no doubt!

ballard
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Awesome! Have you torndown an E01 yet?

CRX
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Thanks Thumbs Up

Jerommel
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ballard wrote:
Awesome! Have you torndown an E01 yet?
I have an Astrolux A01 form the first batch, which is (i think) identical to the Manker E01, including the lovely tinted 219B.
It’s a pretty straight forward construction:
Pill screws in the head, pushes lens and reflector forward.
sbslider
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Jerommel wrote:
ballard wrote:
Awesome! Have you torndown an E01 yet?
I have an Astrolux A01 form the first batch, which is (i think) identical to the Manker E01, including the lovely tinted 219B.
It’s a pretty straight forward construction:
Pill screws in the head, pushes lens and reflector forward.

yep, that is how my Manke E01 went together

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Olight S Mini Titanium PVD for sale

Jerommel
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So, i was messing around with a small TIR optic, and then i destroyed the XP-G3…
This was a while back actually.
Today i decided to remove the XP-G3 remnants.
I can confirm the copper heat sink protrudes through the PCB, giving the LED a direct thermal path. Thumbs Up
The XP-G3 was badly soldered to the heat sink though, but probably good enough for the <2 Watts power consumption.
I just finished reflowing a 219C 4000K CRI90 onto it.
First the centre pad to the heat sink, and then the + and – traces from the sides.
(had to scrape some masking paint off the PCB first)
…it could still do with a diffuser though…

AnhTran
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Jerommel wrote:
So, i was messing around with a small TIR optic, and then i destroyed the XP-G3…
This was a while back actually.
Today i decided to remove the XP-G3 remnants.
I can confirm the copper heat sink protrudes through the PCB, giving the LED a direct thermal path. Thumbs Up
The XP-G3 was badly soldered to the heat sink though, but probably good enough for the I just finished reflowing a 219C 4000K CRI90 onto it.
First the centre pad to the heat sink, and then the + and - traces from the sides.
(had to scrape some masking paint off the PCB first)
...it could still do with a diffuser though...

How did you remove the old Led and reflow the new one? there are many other components around it. I really want to replace mine with a nichia 219 R9080 but still can’t open the light yet
Pablo de Llama
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Are the threads of the head of the light glued to the battery tube threads? I can't open my E03H by hand.

Lacerta
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How did You manage to screw out the bezel ring?
My E02 is not so well centered and I’d like to justify it. But I cannot remove the bezel ring…
…well, without tool. But I avoid using any metal tool because I am sure it will scratch / dent the ring.

Niko
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Sorry but this pcb look like amateur project. Solder bulbs and dislocated parts are ugly

AnhTran
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Lacerta wrote:
How did You manage to screw out the bezel ring?
My E02 is not so well centered and I’d like to justify it. But I cannot remove the bezel ring…
…well, without tool. But I avoid using any metal tool because I am sure it will scratch / dent the ring.

Just use a tape to increase the friction, i managed to open mine here http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1306069#comment-1306069
Lacerta
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Oh, good idea, I will try it, thanks!