Tear Down: Manker E02

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Jerommel
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Tear Down: Manker E02

Hey all,

Just got my Manker E02 in, and it’s a lovely little light.

One little ‘problem’ though:

The camera didn’t catch it so i had to photoshop it, but this is the thing:
On the lowest mode the XP-G3 seems to have a darker area on the die / phosphor.
This gets less noticable on higher currents.

Besides that, the XP-G3 has some tint shift going on, making the centre of the beam quite a bit warmer.
Not abnormal in modern LEDs though, but i’m considering an emitter swap.
But maybe i’ll settle for a diffuser film.

Either way, i had to open it up, also to satisfy my (and your) curiosity.
This is as far as i could get:

Parts list:

- tailcap (PCB with spring and magnet on the bottom apparently glued in place)
- battery tube
- ‘light engine’ retainer ring.
- Light Engine (contact board, driver and LED board, copper heatsink)
- Head (with switch boot and its SS retaining ring)

- LED / reflector gasket
- Aluminum OP reflector
- O-ring
- Glass lens (not coated)
- Bezel (stainless steel, with its O-ring)

Close up of the Light Engine:

Big piece of copper there, nice.
Fits inside the head with some thermal grease.
The copper heat sink seems to protrude through the PCB, so that the LED thermal slug is soldered directly on to it.

I think it’s possible to swap the LED by heating the copper heat sink, but i’m not certain parts will not desolder themselves from the PCB when i try that… Facepalm

2Q19

Edited by: Jerommel on 06/07/2017 - 12:59
LightRider
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Wow. Very interesting design. I’m kind of shocked they would go through the trouble of soldering the led directly to the pill.

Jerommel
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LightRider wrote:
Wow. Very interesting design. I’m kind of shocked they would go through the trouble of soldering the led directly to the pill.

I guess the pill (the copper piece) is ‘just another part’ on the back of the PCB, but going through the PCB too.
You can see on the close up there’s a piece of it sticking through between the C1 and R5 marking, on the left of the LED.
You can see a copper circle there.
I should add a picture with an attempt to capture the bit under the LED.
Maybe later.

2Q19

sbslider
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I have not seen many (any?) tear downs of cheapish AAA lights, but this is impressive.

PocketSammich wrote: I don’t need this, but I want it. Please sign me up.

Trevi_lux
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Thanks, nice pics. Very, very interesting, great aaa flashlight, no doubt!

ballard
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Awesome! Have you torndown an E01 yet?

CRX
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Thanks Thumbs Up

Jerommel
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ballard wrote:
Awesome! Have you torndown an E01 yet?
I have an Astrolux A01 form the first batch, which is (i think) identical to the Manker E01, including the lovely tinted 219B.
It’s a pretty straight forward construction:
Pill screws in the head, pushes lens and reflector forward.

2Q19

sbslider
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Jerommel wrote:
ballard wrote:
Awesome! Have you torndown an E01 yet?
I have an Astrolux A01 form the first batch, which is (i think) identical to the Manker E01, including the lovely tinted 219B.
It’s a pretty straight forward construction:
Pill screws in the head, pushes lens and reflector forward.

yep, that is how my Manke E01 went together

PocketSammich wrote: I don’t need this, but I want it. Please sign me up.

Jerommel
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So, i was messing around with a small TIR optic, and then i destroyed the XP-G3…
This was a while back actually.
Today i decided to remove the XP-G3 remnants.
I can confirm the copper heat sink protrudes through the PCB, giving the LED a direct thermal path. Thumbs Up
The XP-G3 was badly soldered to the heat sink though, but probably good enough for the <2 Watts power consumption.
I just finished reflowing a 219C 4000K CRI90 onto it.
First the centre pad to the heat sink, and then the + and – traces from the sides.
(had to scrape some masking paint off the PCB first)
…it could still do with a diffuser though…

2Q19

AnhTran
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Jerommel wrote:
So, i was messing around with a small TIR optic, and then i destroyed the XP-G3…
This was a while back actually.
Today i decided to remove the XP-G3 remnants.
I can confirm the copper heat sink protrudes through the PCB, giving the LED a direct thermal path. Thumbs Up
The XP-G3 was badly soldered to the heat sink though, but probably good enough for the I just finished reflowing a 219C 4000K CRI90 onto it.
First the centre pad to the heat sink, and then the + and - traces from the sides.
(had to scrape some masking paint off the PCB first)
...it could still do with a diffuser though...

How did you remove the old Led and reflow the new one? there are many other components around it. I really want to replace mine with a nichia 219 R9080 but still can’t open the light yet
Pablo de Llama
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Are the threads of the head of the light glued to the battery tube threads? I can't open my E03H by hand.

Lacerta
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How did You manage to screw out the bezel ring?
My E02 is not so well centered and I’d like to justify it. But I cannot remove the bezel ring…
…well, without tool. But I avoid using any metal tool because I am sure it will scratch / dent the ring.

Goread Y-20 ( XHP50 mod ), UF-2220 ( XP-L2 mod ), Thorfire PF01S, Sofirn SP-10B, Manker E02H, Imalent HR20 ( XP-L2 & TIR mod ), Rofis R3, Skilhunt S3 Pro HD, Utorch UT01 ( XP-L2 mod ), Lumintop tool AAA ( XP-G3 mod )

Niko
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Sorry but this pcb look like amateur project. Solder bulbs and dislocated parts are ugly

AnhTran
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Lacerta wrote:
How did You manage to screw out the bezel ring?
My E02 is not so well centered and I’d like to justify it. But I cannot remove the bezel ring…
…well, without tool. But I avoid using any metal tool because I am sure it will scratch / dent the ring.

Just use a tape to increase the friction, i managed to open mine here http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1306069#comment-1306069
Lacerta
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Oh, good idea, I will try it, thanks!

Goread Y-20 ( XHP50 mod ), UF-2220 ( XP-L2 mod ), Thorfire PF01S, Sofirn SP-10B, Manker E02H, Imalent HR20 ( XP-L2 & TIR mod ), Rofis R3, Skilhunt S3 Pro HD, Utorch UT01 ( XP-L2 mod ), Lumintop tool AAA ( XP-G3 mod )

varbos
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Does the bezel come out easily? It just screws out from the front by pressing against it with some friction? Or is there some glue to soften?
Just got one of these in the mail and there are lots of dust behind the glass

Jerommel
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Hi,

Mine had no glue.
Yes, pressing down on a slab of rubber and twist.
I used a bicycle tire inner tube.
Posts above yours mention tape.

2Q19

Jerommel
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AnhTran wrote:
Jerommel wrote:
So, i was messing around with a small TIR optic, and then i destroyed the XP-G3…
This was a while back actually.
Today i decided to remove the XP-G3 remnants.
I can confirm the copper heat sink protrudes through the PCB, giving the LED a direct thermal path. Thumbs Up
The XP-G3 was badly soldered to the heat sink though, but probably good enough for the I just finished reflowing a 219C 4000K CRI90 onto it.
First the centre pad to the heat sink, and then the + and - traces from the sides.
(had to scrape some masking paint off the PCB first)
...it could still do with a diffuser though...

How did you remove the old Led and reflow the new one? there are many other components around it. I really want to replace mine with a nichia 219 R9080 but still can’t open the light yet

I’m sorry i hadn’t read your post earlier.
Now it’s more than 8 months later..
And also, i don’t really remember how i got the old LED off…
It was damaged and i think it came off with a little force, but maybe i put a soldering iron on it..

2Q19

Lacerta
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varbos wrote:
Does the bezel come out easily? It just screws out from the front by pressing against it with some friction? Or is there some glue to soften? Just got one of these in the mail and there are lots of dust behind the glass

No glue at all, just friction.
I used self-adhesive masking tape to screw it.

Be careful, there’s no centering washer in the lamp, it is a little difficult to tighten the bezel back with proper emitter centering.

Goread Y-20 ( XHP50 mod ), UF-2220 ( XP-L2 mod ), Thorfire PF01S, Sofirn SP-10B, Manker E02H, Imalent HR20 ( XP-L2 & TIR mod ), Rofis R3, Skilhunt S3 Pro HD, Utorch UT01 ( XP-L2 mod ), Lumintop tool AAA ( XP-G3 mod )

Jerommel
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Lacerta wrote:
varbos wrote:
Does the bezel come out easily? It just screws out from the front by pressing against it with some friction? Or is there some glue to soften? Just got one of these in the mail and there are lots of dust behind the glass

No glue at all, just friction.
I used self-adhesive masking tape to screw it.

Be careful, there’s no centering washer in the lamp, it is a little difficult to tighten the bezel back with proper emitter centering.

mine does have a centring gasket.
It’s in the bottom left corner of the 2nd picture in the OP.

2Q19

Lacerta
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Jerommel wrote:
Lacerta wrote:
varbos wrote:
Does the bezel come out easily? It just screws out from the front by pressing against it with some friction? Or is there some glue to soften? Just got one of these in the mail and there are lots of dust behind the glass

No glue at all, just friction.
I used self-adhesive masking tape to screw it.

Be careful, there’s no centering washer in the lamp, it is a little difficult to tighten the bezel back with proper emitter centering.

mine does have a centring gasket.
It’s in the bottom left corner of the 2nd picture in the OP.

Yes, that’s a gasket but it’s not centering. It does not guide the reflector from the side when it is screwed down.

Goread Y-20 ( XHP50 mod ), UF-2220 ( XP-L2 mod ), Thorfire PF01S, Sofirn SP-10B, Manker E02H, Imalent HR20 ( XP-L2 & TIR mod ), Rofis R3, Skilhunt S3 Pro HD, Utorch UT01 ( XP-L2 mod ), Lumintop tool AAA ( XP-G3 mod )

Jerommel
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Mine is a centring gasket.
It has a raised outer rim that fits around the reflector base.
Maybe they /you put yours in upside down by accident?
Maybe you have a different one.

2Q19

Jerommel
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Trevi_lux wrote:
Thanks, nice pics. Very, very interesting, great aaa flashlight, no doubt!

It’s the best AAA light i have.
Definitely the brightest too.

2Q19

Lacerta
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Mine also has a rim but the diameter is too big / the rim height is too low to center the reflector properly.
Originally, I removed the bezel and the reflector because the factory centering was not good enough. And after that I had to play a lot because it is really not easy to tighten the bezel without moving the reflector from the adjusted position. Finally, it is done, and I am satisfied.
Maybe an other type of gasket is in mine, maybe I more sensitive to centering. Big Smile

This is a very good AAA light after all, I really love it!

Goread Y-20 ( XHP50 mod ), UF-2220 ( XP-L2 mod ), Thorfire PF01S, Sofirn SP-10B, Manker E02H, Imalent HR20 ( XP-L2 & TIR mod ), Rofis R3, Skilhunt S3 Pro HD, Utorch UT01 ( XP-L2 mod ), Lumintop tool AAA ( XP-G3 mod )

Jerommel
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I do agree that the centring is not perfect. But it’s good enough in mine.

Yeah, it’s a neat little light. Very happy with it. Thumbs Up

2Q19