Tear Down: Manker E02 / E02H (same as E03H)

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MoreLumens
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E03H is probably my favourite headlight. Diffuser placement is brilliant so you wont forget it, it wont break off and its just so easy to use. I have nichia version and been using it in various tasks from soldering to using it as tent/camp light.
Mode spacing is good and with diffuser near “perfect”.
Not having same problems as many 18650 headlights that are usually too bright or too dim when doing close work. Headband is also good, not like Sofirn SP40 that was way too tight to use so fixed it to a cycling helmet.

Also waiting successor. Im hoping it will be 18650 or 21700 with ramping UI and same diffuser design. Maybe added gimmicks like battery indicator and glowing stuff or red aux leds to use as moonlight mode etc.

Lacerta
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Jerommel wrote:
Osconiq P3737

I had to look that up. Smile

Kaidomain has them.

Do you know these LEDs?

Are they any good?

.
Okay, i’ll make sure to take pictures of the reflow.

Yes, Kaidomain has them. I wrote them last week asking whether they’re planning to sell Osconiq LEDs. Cool
And they’re listing now. Kaidomain is cool! Thumbs Up

Unfortunately, djozz has not tested Osconiqs ( yet ), but the datasheet looks exciting.
As far as I see the Vf is exceptionally low. And no Cree rainbow. LOL
I will purchase a couple of them. But will take time to arrive.

Thank You in advance for the pictures!

Goread Y-20 ( XHP50.2 mod ), UF-2220 ( XP-L2 -> SST40 mod ), Thorfire PF01S, Sofirn SP-10B, Manker E02H X 2, Manker E03H, Imalent HR20 ( XP-L2 & TIR mod ), Rofis R3 ( SST40 mod ), Skilhunt S3 Pro HD, Utorch UT01 ( XP-L2 -> Osram Osconiq P8 mod ), Lumintop tool AAA ( XP-G3 -> SST20 mod ), Skilhunt H04R RC ( SST40 & TIRs selection mod )

glatik
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osconiq / gw pusta /gw pusra thermal pad not neutral

http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1525692#comment-1525692

poor english

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glatik wrote:

osconiq / gw pusta /gw pusra thermal pad not neutral


http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1525692#comment-1525692


If used within the specifications ( <3A ), you do not neccessarily need a DTP board (although DTP always helps a bit), so the non-neutral thermal pad is not a disaster, just retrieve your old-school alu non-DTP boards from the junk-box.

In my next KD order I will add 2 of these and do a test. It can take a while though..

Lacerta
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glatik wrote:

osconiq / gw pusta /gw pusra thermal pad not neutral


http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1525692#comment-1525692

Yes, that sucks.
Should be verified if possible to install in E02/E03. Maybe not.
For general cases Aluramic boards are available from Led4Power. These also suitable for overdriving.

Goread Y-20 ( XHP50.2 mod ), UF-2220 ( XP-L2 -> SST40 mod ), Thorfire PF01S, Sofirn SP-10B, Manker E02H X 2, Manker E03H, Imalent HR20 ( XP-L2 & TIR mod ), Rofis R3 ( SST40 mod ), Skilhunt S3 Pro HD, Utorch UT01 ( XP-L2 -> Osram Osconiq P8 mod ), Lumintop tool AAA ( XP-G3 -> SST20 mod ), Skilhunt H04R RC ( SST40 & TIRs selection mod )

Jerommel
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Use some of those Led4power alu boards.
They’re almost as good as DTP.
Not sure what he still has in stock though, but i assume he has something useful.

Lacerta
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Jerommel wrote:
Use some of those Led4power alu boards. They’re almost as good as DTP. Not sure what he still has in stock though, but i assume he has something useful.

I wrote a letter to them but no reaction. Crying
Maybe the ordering function still works but first I wanted to know whether these ceramic plates can be reshaped by chipping ( like copper DTPs ) or not?
Because it is required for the lamp I want to mod.
The led shelf is anodized anyway, so I think I can use a normal DTP and it is not a problem if the base not on ground potential.

Goread Y-20 ( XHP50.2 mod ), UF-2220 ( XP-L2 -> SST40 mod ), Thorfire PF01S, Sofirn SP-10B, Manker E02H X 2, Manker E03H, Imalent HR20 ( XP-L2 & TIR mod ), Rofis R3 ( SST40 mod ), Skilhunt S3 Pro HD, Utorch UT01 ( XP-L2 -> Osram Osconiq P8 mod ), Lumintop tool AAA ( XP-G3 -> SST20 mod ), Skilhunt H04R RC ( SST40 & TIRs selection mod )

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Bought mine from the clearance sale and just played with it today. Anyone experience the light flickering when turned on at moonlight mode? Usually happens when I leave it for a few minutes then turn it on again, no definite time just leave it and turn it on again. Cleaned the contacts and tightened what I can. Only experienced in moonlight mode. It just might be my battery though, will try some fresh ones tomorrow. Sharing to hear some thoughts as well. If it matters, it’s the XPG3 emitter.

thisnameisvalid
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mitsuki08 wrote:
Bought mine from the clearance sale and just played with it today. Anyone experience the light flickering when turned on at moonlight mode? Usually happens when I leave it for a few minutes then turn it on again, no definite time just leave it and turn it on again. Cleaned the contacts and tightened what I can. Only experienced in moonlight mode. It just might be my battery though, will try some fresh ones tomorrow. Sharing to hear some thoughts as well. If it matters, it’s the XPG3 emitter.

My Nichia one does that, it’s only on level 21/21 in engineering mode though. If I set moonlight to any others (I use 20) its fine.

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Mine has this too, and not only in the highest moon mode, but i think the brighter half of the moon levels start up with a bit of a flash.
Otherwise no flickering, only that small flash when turning it on.
The driver does this.
Skilhunt H03 (for example) does this too when going from OFF to the brighter of the 2 settings for the lowest mode.

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mitsuki08 wrote:
Anyone experience the light flickering when turned on at moonlight mode?

at what battery voltage do you get flickering?
that may be a useful reminder to recharge.. a form of Low Voltage warning.. Smile

Just received a Red E02 w 219c
using an eneloop, that is down to 1.24 volts atm

I just checked all 21 modes by eye, and by camera
zero visible flicker, zero photographable flicker, Im impressed

zero dots when waving to test for PWM.. all good!

set to the minimum

E02, Moonlight Mode Champion

phouton
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No flickering on my E03H on any mode. I have moonlight set to 20/21 I think.

aswang
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Thanks for sharing. Also managed to take my e03H apart despite having tried numerous times in the last year or so. Just needed the right tool to remove the retaining ring which was really really tight compared to my e02. My e02 from clearance now has some 219b sw45k. Still can’t decide what to put in the e03 though.

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Jerommel wrote:

I can confirm the copper heat sink protrudes through the PCB, giving the LED a direct thermal path.

I just finished reflowing a 219C 4000K CRI90 onto it.
First the centre pad to the heat sink, and then the + and – traces from the sides.
(had to scrape some masking paint off the PCB first)

aswang wrote:
My e02 from clearance now has some 219b sw45k.

nice!
what was your strategy to reflow without issues from the nearby components?
aswang
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jon_slider wrote:
nice! what was your strategy to reflow without issues from the nearby components?

To remove I just clipped on the board with the led facing up and used a lighter to heat the copper slab and a tweezer ready to take out the led as soon as it’s possible. For reflowing, still used the same heating method but being extra careful not to overheat and/or knock anything out of place. Used the same method with a nitecore HC60 and YLP Panda 3R and so far I haven’t fucked up yet.

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aswang wrote:
heat the copper slab… careful not to… knock anything out of place.

Sweet!
seems heating the copper is the secret
thank you

would probably work on a hotplate too…

notice I have not said anything about using hot air from above the LED (…. dont mention it) Wink

mitsuki08
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jon_slider wrote:
at what battery voltage do you get flickering? that may be a useful reminder to recharge.. a form of Low Voltage warning.. Smile

I’ll check when I get home. Haven’t played with my engineering mode yet as well so I’ll check on that too.

EDIT: My battery is at 1.2 volts so I don’t know if it’s related to that. Changed the engineering mode to a lower level. IIRC it was at 20/21 though out of the box. I was distracted by how low it could get I lost count. Don’t experience flickering so far.

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jon_slider wrote:
aswang wrote:
heat the copper slab… careful not to… knock anything out of place.

Sweet!
seems heating the copper is the secret
thank you

would probably work on a hotplate too…

notice I have not said anything about using hot air from above the LED (…. dont mention it) Wink


I wouldn’t do it with a hot plate.
I think it’s better / safer to heat up the copper chunk from the back with a soldering iron (that’s how i did it too).
With a hot plate all the air above the plate will be hot and you could risk desoldering other parts.
verpator
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Sorry, maybe not the best place for my question.

A new E02 w/ Nichia only works when I hold the button (switch on after 1 sec or so). I checked w/ another batteries, and it's not in lockout, tried on another E02 the lockout doesn't have momentary mode. Sent mail to Manker too, but I think the answer will be after Chinese New Year. 

Tried to tear apart, but can't loosen the head from the body (by hand w/ some rubber to increase friction). I there any method to reset (like in Anduril)? 

 

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verpator wrote:
new E02 w/ Nichia only works when I hold the button (switch on after 1 sec or so).

sorry to hear
mine works both ways

from off
a short single click gives the moonlight mode

also from off
holding the button gives last mode memory (low or medium)

Im not aware of any reset feature.

question:
is it possible you cant tell the light is on, from single click, because it goes to such a low mode that you cant see it during the day? (try a single click from off in a dark room… now can you see the LED is on?)

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jon_slider wrote:
Im not aware of any reset feature. question: is it possible you cant tell the light is on, from single click, because it goes to such a low mode that you cant see it during the day? (try a single click from off in a dark room... now can you see the LED is on?)

Thank you!

No, I can't notice any light after a single click.

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Does anybody know if there’s any TIR lens options out there for the eo2?

Emisar D⁴, Astrolux C8, BLF A6, Sofirn sp36aV2, Reylight Mini Pineapple, BLF 348 KillZone, Lumintop IYP07, Emisar D18, Boruit D10, Manker e01, Ultrafire z1, Massdrop titanium AAA, Astrolux HL01, Armytek Wizard Pro Nichia, Tacklife LFL3A, Astrolux FT03, Zanflair T1

jon_slider
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verpator wrote:
I can’t notice any light after a single click.

try changing the moonlight mode to another brightness level
(engineering mode)

ch1ir wrote:
Does anybody know if there’s any TIR lens options out there for the eo2?
good idea, let us know if you find out what to order
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I got the idea because I also ordered a knockoff nitecore tini and it is fairly close to the same size.

Emisar D⁴, Astrolux C8, BLF A6, Sofirn sp36aV2, Reylight Mini Pineapple, BLF 348 KillZone, Lumintop IYP07, Emisar D18, Boruit D10, Manker e01, Ultrafire z1, Massdrop titanium AAA, Astrolux HL01, Armytek Wizard Pro Nichia, Tacklife LFL3A, Astrolux FT03, Zanflair T1

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Decided on 219b sw45k on the e02 and 2700K sst20 on the e03h as headlamp and mini lantern with the diffuser. Photos below (~5500K WB)

Moonlight mode

E03 (SST20 2700K) without diffuser and e02 (219B 4500K)

E03 with diffuser and e02

ch1ir wrote:
Does anybody know if there’s any TIR lens options out there for the eo2?

Went through my box of yajiamei optics to try on the e02. The 13mm with stent removed I used for the Panda 3 is the right height but too narrow so cannot place o-rings in between optics and glass lens.

Also tried this 16mm. I removed the stent and sanded down to fit the interior of the bezel and it fit ok. Without the centering ring it fits with the glass lens but beam is not so nice (with doughnut hole). With the centering ring it fits without the lens and the beam is pretty nice and as it shoud be for beaded tir. But I did notice a drop in output so I checked. @ turbo with old eneloops I was getting ~140 lumens with the stock reflector and only ~100 lumens with the optics. So decided to keep the reflector since I also like the 219b + small OP beam for its purpose.

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Was it worth the loss in lumen output, also with the centering ring anD no lens is it still technically waterproof,also do you have a beam shot without the lens? Thanks for your insight

Emisar D⁴, Astrolux C8, BLF A6, Sofirn sp36aV2, Reylight Mini Pineapple, BLF 348 KillZone, Lumintop IYP07, Emisar D18, Boruit D10, Manker e01, Ultrafire z1, Massdrop titanium AAA, Astrolux HL01, Armytek Wizard Pro Nichia, Tacklife LFL3A, Astrolux FT03, Zanflair T1

aswang
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ch1ir wrote:
Was it worth the loss in lumen output, also with the centering ring anD no lens is it still technically waterproof,also do you have a beam shot without the lens? Thanks for your insight

For me it was not worth the loss since I wanted a little more throw for my e02 and I like the beam as is. Now if I wanted a nice flood headlamp for closeup work it would definitely be worth the loss but I have my e03 with diffuser for that (which actually looses as much with the diffuser). I think most of the lost light goes out the side of the optics which a white stent could have helped with. Not sure but maybe painting the sides of the optic white might help improve otf output. With regard to waterproofing, I have modded other headlamps (AT wizard, HC30 and others) where I removed lens (because they won’t fit) and put o ring between the optics and bezel and tighten bezel as much as I can. So far they no problems with waterproofing yet even after caving trips. I just had to clean and lube the o-rings after some muddy trips because mud gets to them.

ch1ir
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Thank you for the the information and help, I think I will stick with what I have stock, I’m still somewhat of a beginner.

Emisar D⁴, Astrolux C8, BLF A6, Sofirn sp36aV2, Reylight Mini Pineapple, BLF 348 KillZone, Lumintop IYP07, Emisar D18, Boruit D10, Manker e01, Ultrafire z1, Massdrop titanium AAA, Astrolux HL01, Armytek Wizard Pro Nichia, Tacklife LFL3A, Astrolux FT03, Zanflair T1

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Niko wrote:
Sorry but this pcb look like amateur project. Solder bulbs and dislocated parts are ugly

depends on how that thing is soldered, the huge thermal mass of the copper piece might be a real problem in conventional reflow ovens
Maybe they need some real nasty air flow to get the proper ramp up and down speed that dislocates the parts

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I didn’t see any ‘solder bulbs’, but they sure used enough solder, a bit much on the switch tabs, but that helps hold it in place.

It seems the pads on the PCB are a bit large, so the parts can ‘swim around’ a little in the molten solder during reflow.

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