Advice cheap dive lights(plastic)?

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Alen
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Advice cheap dive lights(plastic)?

No experience with diving lights.
Need a light for random use no high power required at moment.
To avoid problem of metal alumium with galvanic corrosion on water and salt
Does a plastic body light can be an alternative ?
There are many similar models,some looks with bad hollow pill and a sort of TIR lens,others with reflector like a p60 host, on/off rotary switch or use a lever.
Many use 4AA battery,I would go fo AA but don’t know if thery are in series or parallel
Wich of them are the best quality and advice name seller?


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Edited by: Alen on 06/08/2017 - 05:38
Jerommel
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Hmm… Those yellow plastic things are all rather crappy…
I’d save up for something better with a 18650.
You’re right about the aluminum corrosion in salt water though.

Looking for:

5” parabolic reflector (for recoil light)

Alen
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know that major will be crappy
just maybe there is a decent model,but I need to know name of good seller
often they don’t know what they have!
look this,one photo is with p60 host,other with hollow pill and cheap led
e_coming

Jerommel
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Looking for:

5” parabolic reflector (for recoil light)

Alen
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thanks,
what about the swith of your light?
I had also looking this post
http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1086814#comment-1086814
Anodization does not sufficent to prevent corrosion?
Does a piece of zinc work like a sacrifical anode?

Jerommel
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The one i linked (i don’t own one) has a slider with a magnet, the sensor is inside the light.
That can not leak water.

Looking for:

5” parabolic reflector (for recoil light)

Alen
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do you think this type of switch will be durable?

Jerommel
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Probably, yes.

Looking for:

5” parabolic reflector (for recoil light)

flydiver
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Those little green plastic lights are highly variable, even from the same site. They have different LED’s, different drivers, and different modes. Some work OK, some overheat. In a way the dimmer ones are better and less likely to overheat. They seem to go into blink-mode when they do that, at least mine do.

The main body is 2 halves plastic welded (?) together. There may be a small ridge in the O-ring channel from the process, which is common. This may make it leak if used for real diving. You need to clean that up with #2000 wet and dry sandpaper. Then, get better O-rings, which are also quite variable. They tend to come with crappy ones.

Once sufficiently ‘cleaned up’ I have used them on entire scuba trips with regular use satisfactorily. If you don’t do the fixes, they are liable to leak. luck of the draw on that one.

Lexel
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a powder coated light will not corrode

if its anodized, you may add a thin film of paint with a spray can

flydiver
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Frankly I wouldn’t bother with any dive light that corrodes if you actually want to dive with it. Why bother? There are fine lights that will not.

The ONLY reason I worked with the tiny yellow/green plastic lights is because they are so cheap, very tiny so good for travel and the increasing weight restrictions, and adequate for lighting on tropical trips where lighting is not nearly as critical.

Decent equipment in diving is important.

Alen
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do you know name of sellers that have good quality plastic lights on 5~usd range?
no important power just that water will not enter

flydiver
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http://www.gearbest.com/led-flashlights/pp_6172.html?lkid=10700774 using code [DivingGB].
But I can’t guarantee anything about the light other than cheap. Like I said, their are simply too many variables. I have 4 of them and everyone is different.

Alen
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thanks
this is model with rotary switch,safe to move on/off underwater?
looking inside a metal tube for battery contact,can be removed for put a 3aaa holder?

flydiver
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Not familiar with that model.

Lightbringer
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I love the UltraFire DV-S9. Magnetic slider on the side, so zero potential for leakage from the switch.

Yeah, it’s a HA Al body, so might corrode if you scratch the finish, but what about giving it a light coating of “plasti-dip”, “liquid electrical-tape”, etc.? Sure, you’ll be bottling up the heat somewhat, but if it’s underwater, contact even through a thin layer of “rubber” is way better than open-air.

I’m still not understanding the method of corrosion, if the head + tailcap + tube are all electrically connected, and there should be zero potential between any two points on the connected-metal. If you try a tailcap-lockout by unscrewing the tail a quarter-turn or so, then sure, there’s the battery potential between the tailcap and the tube where the contact is broken. But if it’s all connected?!?

Eh, whatever. The DV-S9 is a great light…

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