Lumintop Tool issue

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joemap
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Lumintop Tool issue

My new (Jan 2017) Lumintop Tool (black) stopped working a few months ago. Just won’t come on.

Things I’ve tried:

1. Switched batteries (Eneloop, fully charged, checked with MM) and tried other brands. No go.

2. Watched some videos on YT and cleaned threads, used nyogel to lube the threads.

3. Switched to magnetic tailcap with no success. This seems to also eliminate the clicky tailcap as culprit.

4. Visual inspection – via magnifying glass – of the emitter, through the lens. Everything appears ok.

I would love to hear some other suggestions. Really like the small form factor and complements my Jetbeam Jet 1-Mk perfectly.

Joe

djburkes
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We’re you running it with Alkaline/Nimh or a lithium 10440?

joemap
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Eneloop NiMH. I bought an 8 pk of both AA & AAA along with an XTAR VC4 (mostly by recommendations here on BLF) back in January when I bought the flashlights.

I did grab a generic Alkaline out of my TV remote with no difference. Both tested at 1.3x volts via MM. Recharged and also tried my other Eneloops.

Really hope it isn’t in the head as I’ve never done any soldering but looks like I may get to figure it out. Anybody ever see a problem in the driver/head assembly?

In the meantime, I may have to find a Jetbeam micro or another brand AAA just to switch out for daily carry. So many choices, so little money…

Joe

djburkes
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joemap wrote:
Eneloop NiMH. I bought an 8 pk of both AA & AAA along with an XTAR VC4 (mostly by recommendations here on BLF) back in January when I bought the flashlights.

I did grab a generic Alkaline out of my TV remote with no difference. Both tested at 1.3x volts via MM. Recharged and also tried my other Eneloops.

Really hope it isn’t in the head as I’ve never done any soldering but looks like I may get to figure it out. Anybody ever see a problem in the driver/head assembly?

In the meantime, I may have to find a Jetbeam micro or another brand AAA just to switch out for daily carry. So many choices, so little money…

Joe

If you want to send it to me, I’ll fix it for free. I’ve got a surplus of Tool parts from modding them.

joemap
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Thanks for the offer, djburkes. That wouldn’t be too difficult as I live just north of you in the Show-Me state so I’ll give it some thought. But, I like to tinker so I may dig into it. I’ve been looking for an excuse to build a flashlight repair kit/station like I’ve seen some videos on here. I was hoping there might be something obvious (or common) that I cannot find on here or YouTube.

If I fail miserably, I may come crawling back here.

Thanks,

Joe

djburkes
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The easiest way that I’ve found to dismantle the Tool is to use two safety pins or nails…something with a good point on it and put one in the hole that’s on each side of the driver and screw the pill out, it comes out counter clockwise. Lumintop has glued the last several runs so it may take quite a bit of force but it’ll come out. I’d start with testing the emitter to make sure it works. If you need any parts for it just let me know.

jon_slider
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> used nyogel to lube the threads

I could be wrong, but here goes:

the problem could be the nyogel, which is designed to BLOCK electrical conductivity, and prevent water from shorting out car tail light bulb connectors. In this case the nyogel is blocking conductivity between the pill and the non anodized end of the battery tube, so no power is getting to the LED. No turn on.

suggest, try removing all the nyogel such as by wiping out the inside of the head, including pill, and the threads and end of the battery tube, with an alcohol wetted paper towel (not Kleenex, it comes apart)

I dont “get” why people use automotive dielectric grease on flashlights, Im happier with NanoOil, although too much of that is bad too Smile

reference:
https://www.nyelubricants.com/nyogel
“NyoGel® products were developed for wide-temperature applications requiring water and salt-water resistance. The product line was originally developed to consist of silica thickened greases that were usually translucent in color for various applications such as dampening, electrical connectors, and sliding applications.

The 774 series consists of silica thickened synthetic hydrocarbon of various viscosities depending upon how much mechanical dampening is required of various components. The damping greases also provide good water resistance.

The 756 series utilizes a silica thickened hydrocarbon that includes the incorporation of carbon black since it was designed to be electrically conductive for instrument and bearing applications.”

MiG0
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Try to release the pill in the head a bit. The probable reason for your problem is that front end of the body is not able to contact with the pill because the pill is sitting too deep.

djburkes
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jon_slider wrote:
> used nyogel to lube the threads

I could be wrong, but here goes:

the problem could be the nyogel, which is designed to BLOCK electrical conductivity, and prevent water from shorting out car tail light bulb connectors. In this case the nyogel is blocking conductivity between the pill and the non anodized end of the battery tube, so no power is getting to the LED. No turn on.

suggest, try removing all the nyogel such as by wiping out the inside of the head, including pill, and the threads and end of the battery tube, with an alcohol wetted paper towel (not Kleenex, it comes apart)

I dont “get” why people use automotive dielectric grease on flashlights, Im happier with NanoOil, although too much of that is bad too Smile

reference:
https://www.nyelubricants.com/nyogel
“NyoGel® products were developed for wide-temperature applications requiring water and salt-water resistance. The product line was originally developed to consist of silica thickened greases that were usually translucent in color for various applications such as dampening, electrical connectors, and sliding applications.

The 774 series consists of silica thickened synthetic hydrocarbon of various viscosities depending upon how much mechanical dampening is required of various components. The damping greases also provide good water resistance.

The 756 series utilizes a silica thickened hydrocarbon that includes the incorporation of carbon black since it was designed to be electrically conductive for instrument and bearing applications.”

Very doubtful as both ends of the tube are anodized except for the flat surface that contacts the driver and tail.

djburkes
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MiG0 wrote:
Try to release the pill in the head a bit. The probable reason for your problem is that front end of the body is not able to contact with the pill because the pill is sitting too deep.

These pills are glued in and are seated against the lens in the head of the light it’s doubtful that the pill has moved in further. The drivers are press fit into the bottom of the pill and have a small tab on each side that holds them in place. Unless the driver has been dislodged from the pill and is no longer making contact with the pill…I’d say the driver is burned out or the led is.

Boaz
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MiG0 wrote:
Try to release the pill in the head a bit. The probable reason for your problem is that front end of the body is not able to contact with the pill because the pill is sitting too deep.

This is actually good advice ….more than just a few lights suffer flakiness from this problem .
check simplest problem first .

καὶ τὸ φῶς ἐν τῇ σκοτίᾳ φαίνει καὶ ἡ σκοτία αὐτὸ οὐ κατέλαβεν

MiG0
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That is a strange statement. In my samples of the aluminium Tool there is no glue whatsoever, and I have experienced such problem myself. The rubber ring before the lens is soft, so it is very easy for the pill to go too deep.

Boaz
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Either way put power straight to the driver via a small 2xAA or 3x AAA battery pack and a couple wires . i have an old 4xAA phone semi depleted battery pack with leads just for such an occasion .

καὶ τὸ φῶς ἐν τῇ σκοτίᾳ φαίνει καὶ ἡ σκοτία αὐτὸ οὐ κατέλαβεν

Lowtech
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Tested my tool just now.
No problems to unscrew the pill.

djburkes
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I’ve modded around 18 of them…the last several purchased from Amazon and the pill was glued with red Loctite. The fist several that I purchased from Banggood weren’t glued but the last batch from Amazon was.

Jerommel
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Sounds like a dead driver to me.

Looking for:

5” parabolic reflector (for recoil light)

Lowtech
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K.. mines from bg or gb.. cant remember.

tango
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Thanks to this thread I was able to “fix” my Thrunite Ti Hi Christmas edition. I had stopped working a week ago and I’ve tried all the usual troubleshooting steps. Figured it was toast. Then after reading some of the posts in this thread, I tried using two small nails to back out the head and it now works! Thanks BLF!!

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