Buck and Boost Drivers, Testing, Modding, and Discussion (Pic Heavy)

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mrheosuper
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Agro wrote:
There were 2 drivers developed on BLF, one by Schoki and the other by Lone Oceans. Neither was finished.
MTN Boost is a separate development.

i believe the Lone Ocean’s driver is finished, just need some more testing( which happens i can help him Silly ) and some firmware touching

Forgot my pen

joechina
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I belive Schoki will have one in the near future

Ronin42
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Finally some MT-G2 6V Love

(“It’s good that most people can’t remember their previous lives. Otherwise
things would be a lot more complicated than they already are.”
Ajaan Lee Dhammadharo)

kikkoman
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Sketched out the schematics of the BW-ET1, for those interested.
I hope it’s readable.

So they built a buck-boost converter by daisy-chaining a TPS61021A (boosts to a fixed voltage, 3.3V I think) and a TPS62095 (steps back down to current set by op amp). A small dedicated 3.3V boost converter feeds the µC in AA operation.
The op amp operates more like a comparator that compares the voltage drop across the sense resistor against a filtered PWM output from the µC. No direct feedback, no fixed gain, the converter itself is the feedback loop. (I kind of understand how this works, but I’m no EE guy).

The CC control scheme looks solid but Blitzwolf messed it up with bad PWM.

Efficiency isn’t going to suffer much from this arrangement I think since the buck converter achieves around 95% efficiency. The obvious downside is driver size (humongous).

JunctionT
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I’m looking for information regarding the H1-A driver. Maybe someone can help me here.
I don’t know which revision i have. It should be fairly up to date as i bought this driver in november 2018.

a) Does the H1-A feature thermal shutdown?
b) What would be the maximum operating temperature for the H1-A?

moderator007
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JunctionT wrote:
I’m looking for information regarding the H1-A driver. Maybe someone can help me here.
I don’t know which revision i have. It should be fairly up to date as i bought this driver in november 2018.

a) Does the H1-A feature thermal shutdown?
b) What would be the maximum operating temperature for the H1-A?


Says it does, look on page 6 of the TPS61088 datasheet.
http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/tps61088.pdf
JunctionT
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Thx!

clientequator
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mrheosuper wrote:
Agro wrote:
There were 2 drivers developed on BLF, one by Schoki and the other by Lone Oceans. Neither was finished. MTN Boost is a separate development.
i believe the Lone Ocean’s driver is finished, just need some more testing( which happens i can help him Silly ) and some firmware touching

hi mrheosuper, do you know where I can find the Lone Ocean driver and the Schoki driver? Is anyone selling them?

clientequator
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I saw a forum member recommend this boost driver. Is there smaller version (20 or 17mm?) around?

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/22mm-6V-4-8A-Booster-Driver-Board-with-T...

This one is 6V 4.8A booster driver.

Barkuti
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clientequator wrote:
I saw a forum member recommend this boost driver. Is there smaller version (20 or 17mm?) around?

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/22mm-6V-4-8A-Booster-Driver-Board-with-Temperature-Control-for-CREE-XHP70-LED-Emitter-1pcs/32940723064.html

This one is 6V 4.8A booster driver.

Looks good but better wait for it to be on sale, right now it is twice as expensive. Facepalm

The H2-C is a proven nice option and can be modded for lower voltage output and higher current. Or use it with 2S input and 4S output, it should handle pretty hefty power that way.

 

Cheers Smile 

Wieselflinkpro
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Barkuti wrote:

clientequator wrote:
I saw a forum member recommend this boost driver. Is there smaller version (20 or 17mm?) around?

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/22mm-6V-4-8A-Booster-Driver-Board-with-Temperature-Control-for-CREE-XHP70-LED-Emitter-1pcs/32940723064.html


This one is 6V 4.8A booster driver.


Looks good but better wait for it to be on sale, right now it is twice as expensive. Facepalm


It is on sale now. Otherwise the price is twice as expensive.
Barkuti
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Such driver coupled with a suitable host could make a serious lumen monster, I bet it will handle 7 - 8 amps just via sense resistor mod without issue. A couple of examples are the UltraFire F13 and Kaidomain's “26650 Fishing Flashlight Host”. I do not know what the tail switch may feel about that, though.

 

Cheers Party 

clientequator
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Barkuti wrote:

Such driver coupled with a suitable host could make a serious lumen monster, I bet it will handle 7 – 8 amps just via sense resistor mod without issue. A couple of examples are the UltraFire F13 and Kaidomain’s “26650 Fishing Flashlight Host”. I do not know what the tail switch may feel about that, though.


 


Cheers Party 

wow do you know if this will work? What d you mean tailswitch? If the output is 7 to 8A, does this mean the battery is supplying 14 to 16A? I think you are right the switch will melt! What is the best option then?

Barkuti
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clientequator wrote:

wow do you know if this will work? What d you mean tailswitch? If the output is 7 to 8A, does this mean the battery is supplying 14 to 16A? I think you are right the switch will melt! What is the best option then?

A MOSFET switch is the best option, but that currently is a total DIY solution. Alternatively:

 

Cheers Party 

clientequator
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Barkuti wrote:

A MOSFET switch is the best option, but that currently is a total DIY solution. Alternatively:

 

Cheers Party 

 

Mr. Barkuti, i see what you mean. I was looking at loneocean gxb172 driver and found this switch!

http://budgetlightforum.com/node/59550

Is this what you mean by mosfet switch? It looks like I can make my own with the files on the page. This looks like ideal solution. The KAN28 is too big to fit in some flashlight tailcap, but the 'small Omten switch" looks like it works OK even at 16A. Is anyone tried making mosfet tailswitch?

Funner
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Is there bridging that can be done with a H1-A driver to set it to HIGH only mode?

I wish more drivers came with the “simple man’s” bridging stars.

Thanks

moderator007
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Funner wrote:
Is there bridging that can be done with a H1-A driver to set it to HIGH only mode?

I wish more drivers came with the “simple man’s” bridging stars.

Thanks


This is just a guess. It be better if someone more knowledgeable confirmed it.
In this post http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1155535#comment-1155535
Cutting the trace after the 47k resistor leaving the opa333 is my guess. In the datasheet tps61088 it shows a typical application where the voltage divider is by it’s self (fully on). I’m assuming the opa333 controls voltage the resistor divider is reading to control voltage feedback and modes from the pic.
Just a guess Question
kikkoman
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moderator007 wrote:
Funner wrote:
Is there bridging that can be done with a H1-A driver to set it to HIGH only mode?

I wish more drivers came with the “simple man’s” bridging stars.

Thanks


This is just a guess. It be better if someone more knowledgeable confirmed it.
In this post http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1155535#comment-1155535
Cutting the trace after the 47k resistor leaving the opa333 is my guess. In the datasheet tps61088 it shows a typical application where the voltage divider is by it’s self (fully on). I’m assuming the opa333 controls voltage the resistor divider is reading to control voltage feedback and modes from the pic.
Just a guess Question

This could work but with how the remaining divider (R1, R2) is set up, it is only voltage regulated and it will put out ~6V and kill a 3V LED.
You’d have to set up the ILIM pin of the TPS61088 correctly.
With the stock 10k for R4, it means practically no current limit. This needs to be changed!

________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Barkuti
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The H1-A driver changes mode only if less than 2 seconds have passed since last power cycle or so. Under normal operating conditions this means you can leave it at whatever mode, turn it off and on and it will remain the same.

As a tinkerer I can understand Funner's viewpoint but, is it worth such effort?

Bear also in mind that if you leave the driver with just one “high” mode, I advice you to select a current output your flashlight can handle without cooking the emitter or overheating above what you may consider permissible, even in tailstanding condition if applicable.

 

Cheers 

Funner
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The H1-A driver mods you all speak of is way above my modding level.

I didn’t know if there was a simple bridge or bridge/jump with a wire for this.

Thanks for the Knowledge fellers.

Happy Day All

kikkoman
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Funner wrote:

I didn’t know if there was a simple bridge or bridge/jump with a wire for this.

Maybe, here’s the idea:

red = cut trace (or lift the MCU pin 5 off the board)
black = bridge wire

Current regulation would stay intact.

But what Barkuti says is correct, this means e.g. thermal throttling (idk if the H1-A does it) would be disabled too.

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That’s exactly how to do it kikkoman. And yes, thermal throttling (if it does it) will be disabled on the PIC. Only the Boost IC overtemp. protection can then save it.

kikkoman
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Schoki wrote:
That’s exactly how to do it kikkoman. And yes, thermal throttling (if it does it) will be disabled on the PIC. Only the Boost IC overtemp. protection can then save it.
Thumbs Up

The PIC may use the EN line to shut down the TPS but I don’t even know if the PIC can sense temperature on its own.

Plus, I think LVP (cutoff, not throttling) stays intact, but the warning flashes at low voltage may disappear.

JunctionT
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Jensen567 wrote:
Sure. Surprisingly this is the best photo of H1-A stripped down I have, this is the driver without the inductor and MCU.

You don’t have to remove the inductor and MCU to do the mod, but it will be easier if you do.

You’ll need to cut a trace on the PCB where I drew the blue line (top right) and then connect your switch with small wires between the two purple circles. When the switch is pressed you are just quickly cutting power to the MCU as if a clicky were half-pressed.

Keep in mind since it is on-time last mode memory, if you have been on one mode for awhile it will need a double click to switch modes the first time.

Thanks for explaining the possibility to switch the H1-A with a momentary button.
I plan to switch modes with an external microcontroller. Basically i only need two modes (33% and 100%) and i want a microcontroller or bluetooth remote to switch through the modes for me. By chance do you know the voltage and current of the pcb trace, which needs to be cut? I could measure it myself, but the driver is still in shipping.

snovotill
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I drew out the schematic for the AliExpress LC15 driver for 12V 12W LED:
LC15 12V 12W
…or here:
(There is also an LC15 6V 3A version)
…or here:

snovotill
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And here’s the LC15 PCB layout, front side:

snovotill
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And rear side LC15 PCB layout:

JunctionT
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Here is an recent image from a H1-A driver ordered 01/2019.

I need to find a way to have only two modes 33% and 100%. Because i don’t have any idea how to program a PIC, i had the idea to use an external microcontroller to switch through the modes for me. The MCLR pin seemed to be a good solution. Pulled to the ground, the PIC should do a software reset. Therefore i desoldered the MCLR-Pin from the board and pulled the pin temporarily to ground. But nothing happens. The driver just works as before.

Besides a custom firmware, which would be great, do you have any idea how to get only two modes?

snovotill
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Here’s a driver which will run an LED from body heat using a TEG or Peltier stack. Input voltage polarity does not matter and I found it works well. Custom Thermoelectic and TXL Group sell these boards for $19US or you can get the unipolar version for only $14 (it has half the component count).

snovotill
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Here are pictures of the LC15 driver for which I posted a schematic a few posts earlier:

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