Luminus SST-40, a N4 BA bin tested

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EagleShield
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Damn.. differs 400 lumen between VJ and VK voltage bin at 6.8A..
Do they have same color? (cool white I assume)
I guess you got the VK from aliexpress and someone said they sold factory rejects. It could be because of that to it has less lumens.
Both VK and VJ had same type of Mcpcb?

zeremefico
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VK from Ali, reflowed on noctigon.
Still impessive considering price.

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EagleShield
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Yeah. Really cheap. I have a few on the way but got a message from intl-outdoor that my order was cancelled because the Noctigon XML was out of stock.
So now I have no good Mcpcb’s for them…

Who bought them all !?!? Smile

Edit: What alternative store are the for buying some good Mcpcb’s with good shipping for EUROPE?
Is there a thread about this that I have missed?
I know LEDDNA got some SinkPAD ones. Anyone else?

.

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Try Kaidomain.com KD DTP copper MCPCB-s. It need a little mod in soma lights for the screw and wire holes don’t match perfectly but it is a minute job.

EagleShield
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Yeah I forgot to write the KDlight DTP Mcpcb.

How much does the thickness of the Mcpcb matters with the reflector and the height of the led?

Like KDlight DTP Mcpcb is 1.5mm thick, Noctigon is 1.6mm thick and SinkPAD-ii is 1.65mm thick. (Is there anymore available DTP Mcpcb’s out there?)

Was mostly thinking of throwers.
Can those 0.15mm mess the light up for throwers? (Difference between KDlight and SinkPAD-ii)

Is the standard 1.6mm thickness on the Mcpcb for most of the flashlight’s?

Sorry, little of topic..

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EagleShield wrote:
Yeah I forgot to write the KDlight DTP Mcpcb.

How much does the thickness of the Mcpcb matters with the reflector and the height of the led?

Like KDlight DTP Mcpcb is 1.5mm thick, Noctigon is 1.6mm thick and SinkPAD-ii is 1.65mm thick. (Is there anymore available DTP Mcpcb’s out there?)

Was mostly thinking of throwers.
Can those 0.15mm mess the light up for throwers? (Difference between KDlight and SinkPAD-ii)

Is the standard 1.6mm thickness on the Mcpcb for most of the flashlight’s?

Sorry, little of topic..


If the reflector didn’t come loose with thinner MCPCB it doesn’t matter. What does matter it is the led centering ring.
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Yeah. Of course… Facepalm
I think I need some sleep..

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KawiBoy1428 wrote:
Henk4U2 wrote:
As stated before, I ordered from Shenzhen Great Technology Co.,Ltd. All came with bubbles. Some small, some big(ger). So at least some of them should be dedomed.
The bubble (s) come from re-flowing, got seven of them from Kaidomain and re-flowed as normal, the last 2 sat a little longer and developed a bubble (s) inside, no artifact's in the beam from them that I can see, but then they are in a triple mmuX3 pulling just over 24amps. (right click then enlarge to see bubbles) p. !{width:100%}https://s19.postimg.org/k57eo35f7/IMG_20170918_180956.jpg! p. !{width:100%}https://s19.postimg.org/liz1je4oj/IMG_20170918_181100.jpg! p. IJOY 21700 and Modified FETDD driver using the Hyperion FET that TomE turned me on too! Thumbs Up p. Scary Bright! :STEVE:

Ohh, wait! You got that FET to work? Oh boy - I got one working ok with the modded MT03, but yanked it thinking it might be causing 7135 issues. Turned it wasn't the FET, but never installed it back. Then the other day I tried one in a Q8, and it dodn't work at all, nothing - 7135 rmaping would work, and as soon as it got up in the FET range, it stayed at the max 7135 level. 2X click to turbo produce no light at all -- all consistent with the FET simply not working.

Maybe I got a bad part, or messed it up on the reflow - it all buzzed out ok but maybe I fried it. Will try another one though seeing you got good results with it.

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Yeah Tom, I’m running it on a 20mm Mtn. FETDD driver with that guppydrv. rev1 UI, no 7135 at all, just piggy backed it on the X3 driver board. I was popping the 404DP, I thought it was due to the re-flow heat, out of 5 I got 1 to work??? Facepalm

I think Dale got 1-2 messed up 404DP’s also?

KB1428 “Live Life WOT”

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KawiBoy1428 wrote:
I was popping the 404DP, I thought it was due to the re-flow heat, out of 5 I got 1 to work??? Facepalm

I think Dale got 1-2 messed up 404DP’s also?

Hmm? This is the first I’ve heard of this. How is the 404dp compared to the 440dp?

Tom E
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I got 3 SIR404DP's in Q8's now - no problems at all with the reflow. Seems to be a nice bump over the stock FET, stock FET is the NXP, same as MtnE sells: http://www.mtnelectronics.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=25_76&product_id=758

I use the SIR404DP's pretty much exclusively now - pretty cheap at Arrow, qty 10 @ $1.67 each. got a ton of them in lights.

Big advantage of the SIR800DP or 404 is they run real cool, cranking a lot of amps. Richard posted bout it way back. You get over 6A or so, and 800 or 404's is the only way to go.

 

KawiBoy1428
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I like/use the 800’s for what I build, I can’t see any difference, and I have plenty of them. Big Smile

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Tom E wrote:

I got 3 SIR404DP’s in Q8’s now – no problems at all with the reflow. Seems to be a nice bump over the stock FET, stock FET is the NXP, same as MtnE sells: http://www.mtnelectronics.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=25_76&product_id=758


I use the SIR404DP’s pretty much exclusively now – pretty cheap at Arrow, qty 10 @ $1.67 each. got a ton of them in lights.


Big advantage of the SIR800DP or 404 is they run real cool, cranking a lot of amps. Richard posted bout it way back. You get over 6A or so, and 800 or 404’s is the only way to go.


 


How about Hyperion?
Tom E
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I just don't have enough experience with them yet, or heard enough about them. I'm one for two, and KB has one working well? 

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you may need to bake them a while to drive out moisture if they are popping during reflow.
i salvage lots of these fets from junk laptop boards without problems so you may simply be getting them too hot.
edit.
these are msl 1 so unlikely to popcorn.

KawiBoy1428 wrote:
Yeah Tom, I’m running it on a 20mm Mtn. FETDD driver with that guppydrv. rev1 UI, no 7135 at all, just piggy backed it on the X3 driver board. I was popping the 404DP, I thought it was due to the re-flow heat, out of 5 I got 1 to work??? Facepalm

I think Dale got 1-2 messed up 404DP’s also?

Tom E
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Dale and I pm'ed bout it. I can't recall one SIR404DP I've blown actually, and I've done a ton of them. I use them for every multiple LED light, or multi-die light that has full FET max output. The difference of 30 cents or so from an SIR800DP is a drop in the bucket.

But I understand hesitancy in using them if you've been popping a couple - not sure why though.

You guys probably know this (I did not though when I started reflowing) , but for reflowing any board, you can't just use hot air from above - you have to have a heat source below (according to all the pros, otherwise you don't get properly formed bonded solder bridges) - I use a coffee mug warmer that brings it up to close to 100C. Let the board sit on it for a few seconds - prefer getting the solder paste to spread, then to turn dry, and then apply the hot air from above, and want to use the minimum heat needed, so it will take a few seconds at a min to get the solder flowing.

I think for parts like a FET, the heat from below is important since it has the big hidden pad under it.

 

snakebite
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yes the heavy copper pad it sits on must reach soldering temp.
i use a homebrew preheater.
its an electric griddle powered by a variac.

Tom E wrote:

I think for parts like a FET, the heat from below is important since it has the big hidden pad under it.


 

Tom E
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Yep, electric griddles must be common to use. My EE buddy here also uses one at home with an adjustable temperature for doing his own boards. He upgraded from his coffee mug warmers because he needed something bigger, so he gave me his old warmer. If I was doing a bit larger scale batches, I would definitely invest in one.

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If you want to catch a FET, you must think like a FET.

Confusion

I always think long and hard before I say something really stupid.

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