DIY

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stormrider88
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DIY

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“We can easily forgive a child who is afraid of the dark; the real tragedy of life is when men are afraid of the light.”

( Plato)

Edited by: stormrider88 on 08/23/2017 - 00:04
-X3-
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You can’t fed LED with that, you need to regulate the current…
You need a driver like this one
I used it on my motorcycle with 2 XM-L2 on serie, and it’s used daily for more than a year now

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tjeret
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That is normal since you feed it by Constant Voltage, current will raise gradually until emitter temperature stabilize.

If you using an XL6009 based boost converter, you can use my method in my http://tjeret.blogspot.co.id/2017/04/step-up-xl6009-as-constant-current.... to modified to constant current (small current “only”, less than 0.5A and less than 10Watt output without heatsink)
Sorry it’s in local language, but you can use google translate

-X3-
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stormrider88 wrote:
Hello X3,

Yes, I know, they are not “led drivers“and I won’t put this on my bike. I just want to understand how those different modules react on prime time Ughh

I have 2 pieces of the Russian drivers that you use on your bike. I tried them with 3x xpg3 and 1× 219C in series, and damn! They get hot very fast!

So, your two XML2 run around 1,2A per led? But the voltage from the driver should be around 14V will alternator (?) 1.2A @14v for a XML2 isn’t going to fry them?

Just curious, what kind of light (host) are you using with your XML2?


I don’t think you correctly understood how LED drivers work.
I feed the driver with 14V, yes but then the XM-L2 are in series so they both see 3A.
The driver is regulatying the current to 3A, and has to take the difference in voltage between VIN and VOUT to dissipate it (heat).
LED Vf is about 3,3V roughly, so 6,6V for 2 LEDs. So the driver has 14-6.6=7.4V to dissipate. That’s 7.4*3=22.2W of heat…
You don’t need anything more than the driver to wire your LEDs to your motorcycle, really.
The driver is specifically designed to accomodate the voltage spikes of an alternator (well, rectifier to be exact)

Slowly sinking into the dark abyss of addiction...MUST buy lights !

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Jensen567
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Since it is a switching regulator it won’t quite be as you describe X3. There will be an efficiency associated with the regulator, and the power the driver dissipates will be the losses, so say 85% efficiency at the 6.6V 3A output gives about 3.5W into the driver.

They do sell constant current adjustable regulators, I recommended one in the previous thread this was discussed in.

Barkuti
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stormrider88:

  • When in parallel, the emitter stack shares the applied voltage. This means a current regulated driver sets the output voltage in a way that the output current matches its set value, but the actual current distribution between the emitters is dependent on their current/voltage curves and temperature. Corollary: for even current distribution among emitters in parallel it is critical to use same batch/type/bin emitters and to cool 'em evenly.
  • When in series, emitter stack gets the same current flow for each led, each one of 'em dropping their corresponding Vf. This means there's no problem if emitters are different or if cooling isn't even.

 

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/TCAM-LM2577-Automatic-Boost-Buck-Converter-4-35V-to-1-25-25V-CC-CV-Voltage-Regulator/32809513686.html

With these you can run all emitters in series; just use multiple pieces and tune each one to a handleable current level. Example: 3 × 0.8A. An advantage of this is that since your power supplies are in parallel, failure in one of them is just a minor inconvenience (some light output drop), vs total shutdown if using just one driver (which means call for assistance for most folks).

 

tjeret
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stormrider88 wrote:
Hi, Thanks for the link. That looks interesting for lower current… btw, I will check again the Baja S2 to get the reference of the component.

For the moment, what I have under my hand are:

- 2 × triple xpg3 3000k 90cri
- 2 × single nichia 219C 4000k 90cri

2 × Russian driver 2.4A (single mode)
2 x dc/dc step-down voltage + current regulated

I tried the 2.4A driver with the triple xpg3 in series but looks too bright/hot…

Also, I noticed that the driver has few smd resistors stacked on R1.

Should I unsolder 1 of them to reduce the current output, or rather keep them in order to run 2x xhp50?

As I have been told on the other thread, 3xpg will heat quite a lot compare to 1 xhp50 at the same lumens output (?)

Let’s say I use 2 XHP50 with this driver, how should I wire the led? I saw on cutter.com some 12V xhp50 90CRI… If I use 2 in parallel, each led will run at 1.2A? Is that correct? If both led are 12v, I wire them in parallel and if the led are configure at 6v, I should wire them in series? In all the case, 2.4A will be simply shared by the number of led I wire together, right?

Already got marking, using photoshop trick
It is LT8316 on your Baja S2
It is a serious IC btw, they do not going cheap with component selection too Smile

The Russian driver that you bought is Buck or Step Down
QX5241 based to be precise

You need to give some voltage headroom about ~1.5V to make those circuit works properly
With 12.8Volt nominal input volt output maks is about 11V, so its not enough for 12V XHP50

Same when you parallel the emitter, the voltage will stay at 12V not half.

Yes you can remove those stacked resistor to make lesser output current, BUT i do not recommended.
It is a hysteristic based controller, if you want to less current you have to increase inductor value to keep the controller work at same frequency in theory
But you can try to remove one or two resistor, maybe it still work fine even not optimal in actual

Barkuti
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Led Driver Power Supply 250W 10A Dc Dc Boost Converter Constant Current Mobile O @ wikita*

Boost module, thus output voltage in a bike/car will at least be 15+V with a fully running engine. Suitable for 6S emitters, a single unit delivers full required power.

The XL6009 CC/CV modules are boost/buck, so they're more adaptable.

 

-X3-
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Well, it seems you have to try it and come back in a few months to give us your impressions Smile
I would be concerned by the waterproof aspect though

Slowly sinking into the dark abyss of addiction...MUST buy lights !

My Flashlight public album (mods, emitter swaps, eye candy)

My reviews channel (French language, Olight, Thorfire : 30+ lights tested)

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JasonWW
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Stormrider, remind us again what you’re going to use the lights for. Is it for floody off-road use or a narrow focused high beam use?

Out of curiosity, what type of bike is it and where do you plan to mount the lights?

My Convoy L6 thread with XHP70.2, Texas Avenger FET driver, Narsil v1.2 ramping firmware, lighted side switch and cut down SMO reflector. Lots of amp draws on stock driver as well.
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/54477

My Supfire L5-S thread with XHP70, Texas Avenger FET driver, NarsilM ramping firmware and lighted side switch. My mini L6! http://budgetlightforum.com/node/55746

NarsilM user videos https://www.youtube.com/user/JasonWW2000

intosite
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Am new to this forum and just came across this thread. I am about done with my own mod, but using XHP50s instead. Though i’m seeking advice, if i could possibly drive the LEDs at a high Amperage up to 4As each with my current setup, seeing how my housing for the LEDs don’t have an active cooling system, i’m wondering if just the wind blowing while moving is sufficient?

Here’s a link to my build.
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/55672#comment-form

intosite
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stormrider88 wrote:
Hello new. I am not expert with drivers and calculation… But 4 amp each?? 12A in 1 pod? I won’t do that. Gonna be too hot… (just my opinion, rather ask the experts to be sure)

What you want to do with 15000 lumens??

Yes about 4A each. One is a flood, the other throws abit further. It has a dimmer on pwm, so I won’t run it all the time, but wondering what’s a safe limit.

I don’t know if it’ll be that much lumens though, hoping to be able to light far enough to go at 150km/h comfortably?

intosite
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Thanks for the advice. I guess I will mount these first and see how it goes.

I’m wiring 3 of the leds in series, so it’s 4A each.

Suncoaster
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Looking good with high CRI !

"In the land of the blond the one eyed man is king."

*This message is protected with ROT26 encryption.Old Lumens

nofear87
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@stormrider88 do you have a link to the cases you choose for the lenses?

nofear87
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Thanks. And the black ones which are wrapped around?

Texlite
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What happened here?

Stormrider88 delete all his posts?

Lightbringer
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Yeah, he dead.

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Texlite
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Ok, thanks for the info LB.

Figured with a username like that he was going to be trouble, but was interested in seeing his project.

JasonWW
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Lightbringer wrote:
Yeah, he dead.

Good one. LOL

My Convoy L6 thread with XHP70.2, Texas Avenger FET driver, Narsil v1.2 ramping firmware, lighted side switch and cut down SMO reflector. Lots of amp draws on stock driver as well.
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/54477

My Supfire L5-S thread with XHP70, Texas Avenger FET driver, NarsilM ramping firmware and lighted side switch. My mini L6! http://budgetlightforum.com/node/55746

NarsilM user videos https://www.youtube.com/user/JasonWW2000

stormrider88
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Is he dead?

“We can easily forgive a child who is afraid of the dark; the real tragedy of life is when men are afraid of the light.”

( Plato)

Lightbringer
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stormrider88 wrote:
Is he dead?

Maybe undead…

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stormrider88
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“We can easily forgive a child who is afraid of the dark; the real tragedy of life is when men are afraid of the light.”

( Plato)

JasonWW
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Stormrider88, why remove all the info?

My Convoy L6 thread with XHP70.2, Texas Avenger FET driver, Narsil v1.2 ramping firmware, lighted side switch and cut down SMO reflector. Lots of amp draws on stock driver as well.
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/54477

My Supfire L5-S thread with XHP70, Texas Avenger FET driver, NarsilM ramping firmware and lighted side switch. My mini L6! http://budgetlightforum.com/node/55746

NarsilM user videos https://www.youtube.com/user/JasonWW2000

Lightbringer
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Big Smile

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stormrider88
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those triple carclo lens are too small… Ledils SS on the way…

“We can easily forgive a child who is afraid of the dark; the real tragedy of life is when men are afraid of the light.”

( Plato)