Pre production sample [Review] Astrolux MF-01 4x18650 flashlight supplied by Banggood

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Lexel
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The differnce from 9 to 12 klumens is visible with the eye when you ceiling bounce
but in use its as bright as the Nichia has about the same lux number because of the smaller LED die size

So the Nichias beam is tighter
The tint of the LEDs in my Nichia is very nice pure white
Also the Nichia has almost no visible tint shift within the beam

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yuhsin91123 wrote:
I’m pretty new to the flashlight world and as many others out there…. More lumens= better… But after reading so many reviews and forums, I found lots of people go for the high CRI. So can someone explain to me the advantage of having either models?

Personally I prefer less lumens if the deal / trade off is for better colors rendition, no hesitation, not even once !
I’m still using a flashlight that outputs 100 lumens in the highest mode and never found a rival to its particular beam and color rendition = high CRI seoul P4.
For outdoor activities, high CRI is a necessity for me. Less lumens but better lumens.
Tom Tom
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I hope they are using the same Nichias, second round, because that is what I just ordered. No question in my mind, as to which I prefer. But there also some sad Nichias, the ones in my first batch S41 were very disappointing to me. Maybe I need new ‘specs.

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yuhsin91123 wrote:

I’m pretty new to the flashlight world and as many others out there…. More lumens= better… But after reading so many reviews and forums, I found lots of people go for the high CRI. So can someone explain to me the advantage of having either models?

In the beginning I had my mind set on the XP-G3 because it’s brighter and according to videos they look pretty good to me. Now I’m seeing people are loving the high CRI Nichia and i want one too… But I also want high lumens… (I know the mode can only run at a short burst)…. So somebody give me a hand if if I’m only picking one.. Thanks

Basically, with the XP-G3 the light is going to have the cool white “LED look”. Most everyone will assume the light is from an LED source, without even seeing it. However, with the Nichias the light looks more traditional, as if from a “million+ candlepower”-style halogen spotlight. If you were to have it on, those who would not know better might expect to see a few glass bulbs in the light head, whenever you turned it off.

From the few that have splurged and bought both versions, most have said that while the XP-G3 was indeed visually brighter than the 219C, it wasn’t really that big of a difference.

yasenf
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yuhsin91123 wrote:
I’ve been hearing the awesome tints from Nichia in their eyes but tested to be around 9000 lumens… I really wish someone near me has both 219C and XpP-G3 so I can make my decision easier lol. Does anyone know the tested lumens on the XP-G3?

I have a Haikelite MT03 and I know MT03 is more of a flood light and MF01 is a bit more throwly. Just wondering if I use them side by side would I able to have the “Holy Shhh this MF01 Nichia is bright…”

I’m pretty new to the flashlight world and as many others out there…. More lumens= better… But after reading so many reviews and forums, I found lots of people go for the high CRI. So can someone explain to me the advantage of having either models?

In the beginning I had my mind set on the XP-G3 because it’s brighter and according to videos they look pretty good to me. Now I’m seeing people are loving the high CRI Nichia and i want one too… But I also want high lumens… (I know the mode can only run at a short burst)…. So somebody give me a hand if if I’m only picking one.. Thanks

I have ordered both variants and kept the Nichias. My thinking – I coudn’t see much difference in quantity of light side by side. Anyway in both cases the light is very bright at max level, but that lasts for a while, while the quality (High CRI) of the Nichias is present also on the lower levels. I also have Q8, so decided to go with high CRI on this one. Anyway tough to choose, I like both variants.

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yuhsin91123 wrote:
I’ve been hearing the awesome tints from Nichia in their eyes but tested to be around 9000 lumens…

I’m pretty new to the flashlight world and as many others out there…. More lumens= better… But after reading so many reviews and forums, I found lots of people go for the high CRI. So can someone explain to me the advantage of having either models?

I would advise by the same lamp with two different LEDs. Sell the unwanted.

I tried that out with the Lumintop IYP365.
The Cree is 200lm
The Nichia 219B is 140lm but CRI 90, around 4000K.
I carried both a week and used it both every time. After two days I knew I want Nichia high CRI and don’t care about less lumen in real live.
It was important to use the lights, based only on 5 minutes playing it would have been the Cree.

With a coupon you should get the IYP365 for arround $12 each. Ask M4dm4x

That lamp makes also a nice gift for relatives if you won’t sell it.

https://m.banggood.com/Lumintop-IYP365-And-Nichia-AAA-EDC-LED-Portable-Pen-Flashlight-p-1066314.html

You had to do that once to know if you are for lumen or nice tint.
Same lamp, same optic to keep other factors out.
You get also a clue if you’re more NW or CW.

yuhsin91123
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ahhh so you got both and the output difference is small? I just ordered the Nichia version and it’s on my way! And if I really like this light maybe I’ll see if they have any specials on the coming Holidays (Black friday, Christmas, New years/ Chinese New years etc.) Then get the XP-G3 version

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Bypassed the driver spring last night. IMO it did get a little brighter. Maybe it’s all in my head.

Lexel
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some slight modification on MF01 design
- driver holes increased to 2.25mm and now it is a via
- Spring pad increased to 10mm
- ground ring bug solved

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Tempted on getting this light, but I’m a bit apprehensive as to the 2S2P setup (Capacity and Voltage). Besides the danger of inserting batteries in the wrong polarity, what other dangers could potentially exist from this configuration using non protected cells? I’m aware that a 4p setup (Capacity) is generally safer using non protected cells, but so far all of my lights use 2s and 3s configs and they all run protected cells.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/John_3:16 

Flashlights:

x6 Sk68 modded 3 Nichia 319AT, 3 Cree XP-G3 - x1 Solorforce P60 drop in custom XM-L2 U4 1C, Qlight Rev.A 7135*8 3.04A Driver - x2 Lumintop EDC05 CW - x2 Jaxman E2L tripple XP-G2 S4 
x1 Jaxman Z1 Zoomie, w/ Cree MT-G2 Q0 LED - x1 Acebeam K40m thrower with MT-G2 Q0 LED - x1 Xintd SC-82 V5 Limited Edition C8, XM-L2 U4 1C, Qlight Rev.A 7135*8 3.04A Driver
x1 Convoy L6 moded with a Cree XHP-70.2 P2 1D LED - x1 Rare Olight x7 Maurauder with a Nuetral White LED - x1 Astrolux MF-01 Nichia 219c - x1 Astrolux MF-01 Cree XP-G3 - x2 Zebralight SC5w MKII  

x6 Lumintop Tool AA - x1  x2 Lumintop Tool AA 2.0 - x1 Lumintop ODL20C - x1 Lumintop GT mini - Olight i3E EOS - x2 Zebralight SC600w Plus MK IV XHP 50.2 4500k 80 CRI - x1 Fenix CL30R - x1 Lumintop C01 Bike Light - x1 Lumintop Zoom 1 - x2 Zebralight Sc700d

Lexel
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the production lights have modified battery carrier to allow protected calls and handle reverse protection with plastic discs

4P battery carrier is even worse if you insert one battery reversed while 3 normal are already in it
Mixing full and empty cells in 4P also leads to bad things to happen, while in 2S/2P you wont ever reach reverse charging like in 4S possible, just if you over discharge a cell recycle it

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Ok. Thank you for the information. I’ll most likely get this light sometime soon. I have some friends who are afraid of flashlights that use Li-Ion cells because of the bad rep of exploding. I tend to think the technology is generally safe, so long as you know what you are doing, and respect the tech. Safety first!

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/John_3:16 

Flashlights:

x6 Sk68 modded 3 Nichia 319AT, 3 Cree XP-G3 - x1 Solorforce P60 drop in custom XM-L2 U4 1C, Qlight Rev.A 7135*8 3.04A Driver - x2 Lumintop EDC05 CW - x2 Jaxman E2L tripple XP-G2 S4 
x1 Jaxman Z1 Zoomie, w/ Cree MT-G2 Q0 LED - x1 Acebeam K40m thrower with MT-G2 Q0 LED - x1 Xintd SC-82 V5 Limited Edition C8, XM-L2 U4 1C, Qlight Rev.A 7135*8 3.04A Driver
x1 Convoy L6 moded with a Cree XHP-70.2 P2 1D LED - x1 Rare Olight x7 Maurauder with a Nuetral White LED - x1 Astrolux MF-01 Nichia 219c - x1 Astrolux MF-01 Cree XP-G3 - x2 Zebralight SC5w MKII  

x6 Lumintop Tool AA - x1  x2 Lumintop Tool AA 2.0 - x1 Lumintop ODL20C - x1 Lumintop GT mini - Olight i3E EOS - x2 Zebralight SC600w Plus MK IV XHP 50.2 4500k 80 CRI - x1 Fenix CL30R - x1 Lumintop C01 Bike Light - x1 Lumintop Zoom 1 - x2 Zebralight Sc700d

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yuhsin91123 wrote:
ahhh so you got both and the output difference is small? I just ordered the Nichia version and it’s on my way! And if I really like this light maybe I’ll see if they have any specials on the coming Holidays (Black friday, Christmas, New years/ Chinese New years etc.) Then get the XP-G3 version

Seen the Nichia measured from as little as 8000 lumens, my XP-G3 MF-01 measured around 10,500 lumens, but it appears brighter as there’s not much spill. Just a big wide hotspot.

My 4K Lumen Whore Reviews (MS18, X70, MS12, DX80, X80-GT, X45vn etc) - https://www.youtube.com/c/FLASHAHOLICS_GB

Tally-ho
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Lexel wrote:

It seems that banggood is selling the LED’s MCPCB separately for 30$ but the picture is showing the spring side of the driver.
Is it a sign that BG is also going to sell the (lastest) TA’s driver ?

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Wut the? They must have shlapped something up quick for someone... Probably to appease someone that had a defective LED and/or MCPCB. Can't imagine them charging $30 for a driver, but they could have provided a coupon code to a customer.. Strange though.

JasonWW
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Tally-ho wrote:
Lexel wrote:

It seems that banggood is selling the LED’s MCPCB separately for 30$ but the picture is showing the spring side of the driver.
Is it a sign that BG is also going to sell the (lastest) TA’s driver ?


It seems they loaded the wrong picture.

Since Astrolux is the Banggood brand, it makes sense they can get parts from the factory like mcpcb, but they can’t get Texas Avenger drivers.

Texas Ace Lumen Tube calibrated with Maukka lights

Click this to go to signature links.

Lexel
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they are violating the open source license for sure
And this is my edited SRK design and noone asked me about it

even worse that design is so old that its missing also the ground only coming from one source so noise on LDO is reduced and it does not freak out
additional caps missing stabilising the Batt voltage
AMCs dropped for small FET and resistors

BlueSwordM
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What they did is utter laziness.

I mean, they could’ve just taken a picture of the blank MCPCB in the factory.

But nooo.

At times, I do wonder if they check what kind of pictures they post.

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547

Lexel
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and they even do not tell if it fits V1 or V2 of the driver
but seriously a MCPCB for 30$ that you already got, no other optic will fit, so it is kind of pointless

still the question is why a BG employee has my driver picture from Oshpark

JasonWW
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Lexel wrote:

but seriously a MCPCB for 30$ that you already got, no other optic will fit, so it is kind of pointless

A mcpcb loaded with Nichia emitters.

Texas Ace Lumen Tube calibrated with Maukka lights

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I am surprised that this was spotted and it made me chuckle. They created/sent me this link when I inquired about getting another MCPCB since one I modified has an issue. I am waiting for confirmation that it is in fact a MCPCB and not a driver as pictured.

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Hi Everybody,
I bought the Astrolux MF 01for this application:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=02366pwwPLM&feature=youtu.be
drone test astrolux light
is a total disaster , this light on high or turbo what I need the most works only 1 min,
Than is getting extremely hot and turns down the ligh to about 1000-1500 lumens (estimate )
Anybody any ideas how to cool it down to stay on for about 20 min ?
On a drone 1000 lumens is useless.
I do not know much about lights, but obviously the fake advertising get to me, I bought it from bangood.
Thank you guys, any ideas will be highly appreciated.

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It is not fake advertising.

It is very hard for a light to stay cool at 100W outputting close to 10000 lumens.

However, to help it out, you could put a small fan besides the light to help cool it.

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547

poco_bw
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BlueSwordM wrote:
It is not fake advertising.

It is very hard for a light to stay cool at 100W outputting close to 10000 lumens.

However, to help it out, you could put a small fan besides the light to help cool it.

Well is saying on their website runtime 3.5 hours.
https://www.banggood.com/Astrolux-MF-01-18x-XP-G3Nichia-219C-12000LM-Sup...LED-Flashlight-18650-p-1165131.html?rmmds=search&ID=529762&cur_warehouse=CN
I am a photographer not a flashlight specialist, so I believed them.
What I cared about more was the 5000K natural light with high CRI.
Than why they will make such an insane claim if they know the flashlight will run for 1 minute only?
Thank you for the idea but I think a small fan wont help much on the drone as the flashlight is “burning”, and it already have enough airflow from the drone propellers.
Thank you again. Anybody any other ideas ?

BlueSwordM
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Yeah, 3,5 hours is with the stepdown.

The ANSI standard means that if you can maintain that brightness for at least 30 seconds, you are good to go.

You want a high CRI light, yes?

Are you willing to go beyond flashlights or not?

I can help you if you want.

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547

JasonWW
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poco_bw wrote:

I do not know much about lights, but obviously the fake advertising get to me

I will try to help you understand a bit better. The very biggest lights, like Acebeam X65 and Imalent DX32 can only sustain 5,000 to 6,000 lumen continously. That is about the limit. A smaller light, like the MF01, might be able to sustain about 2,500 assuming it has a setting around there (it doesn’t) and it’s temperature protection circuitry is working properly.

If your looking for high continous output you need to use a light with a built in fan, but those are rare and expensive.

You can check my thread on actively cooled lights here.

As far as what’s currently on the market and is not overly big and heavy, the PowerTac X10 at $600-$700 might work. The Storm of Ra at $354 is a cheaper contender.

Texas Ace Lumen Tube calibrated with Maukka lights

Click this to go to signature links.

poco_bw
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Thank you very much guys for the answers.
Sincerely I took literally what says on their advertising the 3.5 hours runtime at max brightness.
Is nothing mentioned about the ANSI standard, how I was supposed to know about some standard?
Translate it in “car” terms is like advertising a Toyota that max speed is 100km/h but actually after 1 min will throttle to 10km/h.
As a consumer I will calculate that from point x to point y will take me 3 hours to rich destination, will never cross my mind that will take me 3 days Smile
That is just about the novice principle.

Yes I was looking for high CRI for filming purposes, high brightness, and in the same time keeping in mind “weight” so the drone can carry safely.

I will look at the Acebeam X65 and Imalent DX32 what you mention, but the MF1 was the only one with 5000Kelvin daylight, high lumens what I could find at that moment.
5-6000 lumens might be to low, I do not know, but as you saw in the video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=02366pwwPLM&feature=youtu.be
The Astrolux steps down to about 1500 lumens after 1 minute, rendering it for me as dead weight, basically just wasted money.
Guys any of the lights what you mention is Daylight 5000K with CRI 90 or above? I chose the Noctua LED solution for that purpose.
At the moment, I am still looking for a solution to cool down this light, but the cooling solution to not add more than 1 kg extra.
Ideas ?

JasonWW
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Maybe rig up a remote switch to turn on the MF01 when it is in the air and in position then film it in 50 to 60 second increments and then edit the footage to seem like much longer continous output?

Texas Ace Lumen Tube calibrated with Maukka lights

Click this to go to signature links.

poco_bw
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the problem is that it lasts 1 min when is cold, once is hot in few seconds lowers the light to about 1500lumens, so that wont help me much :-). Thank you for the idea.

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Many other manufacturers like olight or Acebeam writes e.g. 5 + 200minute or similar for the output of 7000 / 1500 Lumen. So from other flashlights you can clearly see the stepdown.

If you look at the output levels and runtimes, yo see with little math that there must be a stepdown.
Output: 1100LM, 6800LM, 11526LM
Runtime: 4.7h, 4h, 3.5h
The ratio from 6800lm for 4h to 1100lm for 4.7h does not make sens, if it has no stepdown.

Sorry, that you have to learn it that way.

I think the best solution for you would be to build a flashlight with large 100W cob-led, a big passive CPU Cooler and a lipo-battery.

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