TK's Emisar D4 review

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vresto
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i cant resist to buy this light..but,i dream about usb version with it…i think,there is someone,who did this mod to mini usb port?

EDC...no one yet

Headlamp-Thrunite th30

MascaratumB
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vresto wrote:
i cant resist to buy this light..but,i dream about usb version with it…i think,there is someone,who did this mod to mini usb port?

CRX did it:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/55736 Beer

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i42dk
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Just got my third D4 today. In “white”. Or light gray perhaps. None the less YAY NEW LIGHT Big Smile

Full album

I can see where the pricedrop comes from. The other two I’ve gotten was cleaner on arrival.
And seemed more precisely made and cleanly cut.
The white one seems a little “Chabuduo”

This looks like it came straight from the mill. No lube on the threads, and tons of milling leftovers.

Five minutes later it’s cleaned, lubed and taken to the workshop for some sanding. P160 grit and now it’s silky smooth.

On a side note; the new white one felt lighter, so i measured them.

(without tailcap, as the older ones has a magnet glued on)
Black XP-G2 S4 5D (V1): 59,28g
Green Nichia 219CT: 59,84g
White Nichia 219CT: 58,08g

But then again, despite all this, at $35 it’s still a friggin steal Beer

aginthelaw
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That’s the first thing I noticed also since I was switching batteries to my white one from my blue one. I wonder why that is

P. S. It took two weeks from date of order to my door here in New Jersey USA good work Hank. That makes number 10 or 12 or something got my finger on the button waiting for the D4 S

never fear shadows…it means a light shines nearby

i42dk
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Would like to add one little thing. Yesterday i wanted to flash another firmware to my new white D4. For some reason the MCU would not read-write. after multiple attempts a tried a Q8 driver, same chip. It read on the first try.
But i could not read write anything to the new d4 driver Crying

goshdogit
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i42dk wrote:
But i could not read write anything to the new d4 driver Crying
I have a cheap SOIC clip and sometimes need several attempts to make a good connection to the chip.

Are you correctly identifying the position of pin 1? I put a small dot of silver marker on the chip and clip to help me get them positioned correctly.

Pin one is near the triangle symbol on the ATtiny85 in your photo of your other D4 driver from your post in another thread.

FWIW, I’ve flashed five Emisars of various flavors without issue.

DB Custom
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I too have flashed the Emisar D4/D1/D1s with no issues. Anduril on each one. ;P

Seeker1
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Low Voltage Protection? I am sure someone has actually tested LVP.

I gifted my first D4 219c Version 1 to a neighbor and he used it everyday and really liked it.

Well he left it on in his truck the other night and it ran a NCR18650GA down to .5 volts.

I have at least 3 D4’s V2 but usually keep charged between 3.7 and 4.1 or so and have never tested LVP.

I would think the V1’s had low voltage protection but maybe not.

Your thoughts on this. Thanks

sbslider
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I found a couple references to low voltage protection in the OP

Quote:
This driver also has low-voltage protection. At 3.0V it’ll drop to the lowest level, and at 2.8V it’ll shut itself off as far as possible. It still has a very small amount of parasitic drain though, so don’t leave it in post-LVP mode for months or years at a time. It would be a good idea to change the battery within a few days, or unscrew the tube to cut power.

Wondering the one you gifted was V1, and perhaps that version did not have it? It looks like several people wrote about experiencing low voltage protection in their D4s.

PocketSammich wrote: I don’t need this, but I want it. Please sign me up.

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Failed LVP sounds very strange. I’ve tested it using a bench power supply, and it has always functioned correctly. I also actually managed to run down the battery a couple times and LVP did what it was supposed to. Usually I recharge the cell at about 3.3V, but there have been occasions where I used LVP instead.

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I agree strange LVP failed but is there any other way he could run the cell down that low.

I have the light and battery that’s how I measured the .5V.

It’s the only 18650 light he has. Guess if he doesn’t get another battery soon and want it back I can test with 1 of my batteries.

It is definately V1 also.

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FWIW, putting the cell in backward can make it do that. I don’t think the reverse-polarity drain was fixed until the D4S.

Seeker1
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TK you are right battery in backwards most likely. Tried a fresh cell and the D4 is dead.

What exactly happens when someone does that? Does the battery heat up like a dead short and take out the driver also?

DB Custom
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It could have overheated one or several components. If you can get a look at the driver (a good picture perhaps?) it would help to identify if there is a burned component. Look for a microscopic black volcano on one of the black components, the MCU or the MOSFET specifically…

Edit: If a component fried you’ll smell it, usually upon opening the light to remove the cell.

i42dk
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goshdogit wrote:
i42dk wrote:
But i could not read write anything to the new d4 driver Crying
I have a cheap SOIC clip and sometimes need several attempts to make a good connection to the chip.

Are you correctly identifying the position of pin 1? I put a small dot of silver marker on the chip and clip to help me get them positioned correctly.

Pin one is near the triangle symbol on the ATtiny85 in your photo of your other D4 driver from your post in another thread.

FWIW, I’ve flashed five Emisars of various flavors without issue.

That’s why it’s so frustrating. I’ve flashed my two other D4’s multiple times, and other flashlights. Mostly the clip catches on first or after a few tries.
I tried at least 50 times to connect it to it. Flipped it over, tried the other board which worked right away. then back to the new D4. Same result Crying

DB Custom
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I’ve been there as well, know the frustration. Is there a lighted e-switch or something in play here? If there’s anything like that it tends to ground the circuit and can prevent a flash from working. Also I’ve seen the USB actually not making good contact in the computer. Check that the pins are the correct length to make contact in your clip, they have a tendency to slide up sometimes. Check to see if those two capacitors are preventing the clip from sitting all the way down, remove them or remove the MCU and flash it then put it back on. There’s probably something pretty simple and straightforward that’s stopping the successful flash, finding it can be a hair pulling thing, trust me I know!

DB Custom
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If the Cap at C2 is stopping the clip from seating, that would do it. Or if the pin 3 is grounded at that pad provided that too would do it, drag an iron across that junction and make sure it’s not bridged.

DB Custom
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I usually remove the board to flash mine, you might try de-soldering the e-switch wire .

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I started reading this thread and got pretty far in trying to get a feel for which emitter to go for. I can’t afford all of them and didn’t want to commit before getting a good consensus. Finally choose the grainy white body and XP G2 S4 3D 4885. Almost went for my first Nichia but chickened out at the last minute. Maybe next time. Not much written about the white version. Any feedback appreciated. Can’t wait for it to arrive and look forward to playing with it. Thanks all.

Fate0n3
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Seems like I am always late to the party, just found out about this light and now have an urge to want one. Seems like Mountain Electronics is sold out of all of them except the Nichia. I have tried messaging them last week and didn’t get anything back, anyone know how often they get these back in stock?

sbslider
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the D4 is still discounted at intl outdoor, and all varieties are in stock including the XP-L HI(did not check Nichia). I got mine from there (Nichia 219C), ordered May 30 and received in June 18.

PocketSammich wrote: I don’t need this, but I want it. Please sign me up.

Fate0n3
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sbslider wrote:
the D4 is still discounted at intl outdoor, and all varieties are in stock including the XP-L HI(did not check Nichia). I got mine from there (Nichia 219C), ordered May 30 and received in June 18.

Thank you very much good sir!! I will check them out I try to keep what I can purchase wise in the US, but looks like this time gotta go international. Thank you big time!

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Thumbs Up Beer

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pennzy
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Yes , this is one time that ordering from China is advised. $35 vs $40, free shipping, XP L HI option half the price, direct from the manufacturer . It all adds up. Longer shipping to US is the only negative. Also had the only textured option if you are so inclined.

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I swapped some Nichia 219B 4500K R9080 emitters into one of my D4s today. Party

Here’s a first-run D4 with Nichia 219C 5000K 80+ CRI emitters on the left, and the new rosy D4 on the right:

These photos were shot using a custom white balance for each tint. The photos look nearly identical, but the reds get redder.

Click to embiggen:

And here they are compared in a .gif:

EDIT: Photos updated due to white balance issues.

DB Custom
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I find the picture looks more true to life on my calibrated monitor with the 5000K 219C’s.

chinooker
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+1

looks like it needs white balance

goshdogit
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DB Custom wrote:
I find the picture looks more true to life on my calibrated monitor with the 5000K 219C’s.
chinooker wrote:
looks like it needs white balance

Indeed! I royally goofed on the custom white balance settings! Facepalm

I’m going back to repair my post now…

bunnicula
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goshdogit wrote:
I swapped some Nichia 219B 4500K R9080 emitters into one of my D4s today. Party

Here’s a first-run D4 with Nichia 219C 5000K 80+ CRI emitters on the left, and the new rosy D4 on the right:

These photos were shot using a custom white balance for each tint. The photos look nearly identical, but the reds get redder.

Click to embiggen:

And here they are compared in a .gif:

EDIT: Photos updated due to white balance issues.

On a non-tint related note, I measured 15.5A at start with my D4 (Nichia 219B sw45k installed) using Samsung 30Q.

zamar23
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Hi guys,

What Emisar D4 model & components would you recommend for lighting HVAC ducts 15 inch square 5-10 meters long from inside, and why that model? Main criteria is for the lighting to be even along the length, good for clear photos at any duct point, not only at the flashlight mount or the opposite duct end. Or may be you can suggest a better fit flashlight for such application, but it must be compact enough, 2-3 inches in diameter.

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