TK's Emisar D4 review

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Firelight2
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AnhTran wrote:
beastlykings wrote:
AnhTran wrote:
I diassembled my D4 to flash new firmware, now it dims when i turn it off. I think the circuit is short somewhere, what is the best possible cause?

Update: after some test with multimeter, i found that the flashlight aluminium body was short circuit with the negative of mcpcb. I also found that the noctigon mcpcb is made of a thin top layer of copper to conduct electricity, and the thick copper bottom layer. My screws somehow connect the top and bottom layers. But the screws are also used in original D4, why does it cause problems now?

Did you lose the insulating washers? There should be two washers per screw, a metal one and an insulating one. The insulating one goes against the mcpcb, and the metal one on top against the screw.

Yes i did lose the insulating washers, the washers insulate the top layer of mcpcb from the head of the screws, but, the threads of the screws can still connect the top and bottom layers of the mcpcb??

Sounds like your screws may have eroded and worn through the top layer of the MPCB causing a short. Some options:

  • Option 1: Try rotating the MPCB 90 degrees. The screws would then go in the holes previously used by the optic. Those screw holes are presumably not eroded so hopefully you should not get a short.
  • Option 2: Omit the screws. The first run Emisar D4 actually did not have any screws holding the MPCB on. All you had was pressure from the optic and bezel holding the star down. The main purpose of the screws is so that when you tighten the bezel the star doesn’t rotate and possible break the solder on the driver wires. That said, many triples, quads, and single emitter lights work just fine without any screws at all, and the D4 is one of them. Since the screw are causing your light to malfunction, I suggest omitting them.
  • Option 3: get a replacement star. Any 24mm standard quad star will fit. You can buy one from Moutain Electronics and reflow the emitters onto it.
AnhTran
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Firelight2 wrote:
AnhTran wrote:
beastlykings wrote:
AnhTran wrote:
I diassembled my D4 to flash new firmware, now it dims when i turn it off. I think the circuit is short somewhere, what is the best possible cause?

Update: after some test with multimeter, i found that the flashlight aluminium body was short circuit with the negative of mcpcb. I also found that the noctigon mcpcb is made of a thin top layer of copper to conduct electricity, and the thick copper bottom layer. My screws somehow connect the top and bottom layers. But the screws are also used in original D4, why does it cause problems now?

Did you lose the insulating washers? There should be two washers per screw, a metal one and an insulating one. The insulating one goes against the mcpcb, and the metal one on top against the screw.

Yes i did lose the insulating washers, the washers insulate the top layer of mcpcb from the head of the screws, but, the threads of the screws can still connect the top and bottom layers of the mcpcb??

Sounds like your screws may have eroded and worn through the top layer of the MPCB causing a short. Some options:

  • Option 1: Try rotating the MPCB 90 degrees. The screws would then go in the holes previously used by the optic. Those screw holes are presumably not eroded so hopefully you should not get a short.
  • Option 2: Omit the screws. The first run Emisar D4 actually did not have any screws holding the MPCB on. All you had was pressure from the optic and bezel holding the star down. The main purpose of the screws is so that when you tighten the bezel the star doesn’t rotate and possible break the solder on the driver wires. That said, many triples, quads, and single emitter lights work just fine without any screws at all, and the D4 is one of them. Since the screw are causing your light to malfunction, I suggest omitting them.
  • Option 3: get a replacement star. Any 24mm standard quad star will fit. You can buy one from Moutain Electronics and reflow the emitters onto it.

Thanks for your answer. But I don’t understand what do you mean by “eroded”, because the screws holes are all metal so the screws can connect the top and bottom layers of mcpcb easily and no need anything to be eroded?
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AnhTran wrote:
Thanks for your answer. But I don’t understand what do you mean by “eroded”, because the screws holes are all metal so the screws can connect the top and bottom layers of mcpcb easily and no need anything to be eroded?

The copper substrate of the MCPCB is electrically separate from the PCB traces that power the led. When the screw wears through the red layer it may connect the traces to the body causing a short

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Agro wrote:
maukka wrote:
Here’s some scope shots of the output. Measured optically OTF. Most of them links not to clutter the thread too much. Used a slightly discharged 18650GA and there probably was some throttling going on.

First on the 7135:
Moon

A bit above moon
A bit more
Almost there

71350 100%

Changing ranges:
Flashlight off

7135 100% for reference

Just a bit above
Just as specified, the higher range cycles between 7135 100% level and up.

Getting brighter

A bit more

Reaching some sort of a peak

Duty cycle increasing
Just a bit below turbo
Turbo


Maukka…
In another thread I mentioned how the driver seems to be acting as a current limiting device. Though in theory a FET driver shouldn’t behave like that. Kiriba-ru questioned that.
Quote:

Also, I dont think output voltage from light meter is proper value to measure (for this discussion). Led have some delay but sensor also have some delay.

http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1465262#comment-1465262

What do you think about that?


I got a PM telling me that a resistor is a standard way of slowing down a FET. Quick search:
https://www.eng-tips.com/viewthread.cfm?qid=210187
Yeah, it is. So it seems that a FET used this way is actually a high-ripple regulator.
But…I tried to use your scope results to actually measure the ripple. Now that I think about it, not knowing your sensor’s response curve it was a broken idea. But I got something I don’t understand – and I’d like to.
I see that at fairly low duty the peaks reach about 1.5V. But then they get lower and Turbo voltage is below 0.5V. So…I would interpret it as D4 being much brighter in peaks than with a FET wide open. I don’t believe that’s the case.
Any explanation?
Firelight2
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AnhTran wrote:
Thanks for your answer. But I don’t understand what do you mean by “eroded”, because the screws holes are all metal so the screws can connect the top and bottom layers of mcpcb easily and no need anything to be eroded?

When properly assembled, the screws do not cause a short.

However, in your case, you are getting a short. One possibility is that by screwing and unscrewing your screws the bottom of the screw heads ground through the layer of paint on the top of the MPCB under the screw heads. If that grinding went through into a trace then there could be a short. I do not know offhand if the MPCB used in the D4 has traces near the holes, but if it does, that could explain why you are getting a short.

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So ive been scouring this thread debating on the typical emitter choice and for a while I had planned on a 3k SST20 because I want this specifically for late night walks and candle mode (once I flash Anduril) but the green levels at low current are making me rethink my choices.

I dont really want to spring for the XPL-HI 5D if I dont need to, but green tints are a hard stop.

Anyone have one of the 3k SST20 models?

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All 3000K SST-20 leds I have used sofar are not green in any optic or current.

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Jay wrote:
Lux-Perpetua wrote:

I wonder if it was feasable to order the D4 or D4S with a 2×2 array of SST20 5.000K with 6500K or 3000K with 4000K. I wouldn’t want to mix 65CRI and 95CRI, though.

Yes, it isn’t listed as an option, but Hank will make them upon request.

D4 SST-20
Left: 3000K/4000K mix tint w/ 10623 optic
Right: 4000K w/ 10622 optic

I kinda feel like an ass, but I just ordered a D4 with Anduril flashed and 3k/4k tint mixing. I have the capability of flashing an ATTinyXX, but I really dont want to mess with beating the driver out.

Go big or go home right?

I just hope the green levels arent noticable.

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Ain't nothing wrong with any of that! Heck, my phone has dual tint flash so why not with our light cannons?

 

Now, I want to ask Hank to change my order to dual LEDs!

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my current edc D4 has 2× 3000k dome on and 2× 4000k dedomed sst20 emitters.

tint is perfect. no green and rosy on high levels

anduril and aux leds as well, of course Wink

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nick779 wrote:

I kinda feel like an ass, but I just ordered a D4 with Anduril flashed and 3k/4k tint mixing. I have the capability of flashing an ATTinyXX, but I really dont want to mess with beating the driver out.

Go big or go home right?

I just hope the green levels arent noticable.

Hank will do the D4 or D1 with Anduril flashed ? If so, I’m probably going to get another D4 or a D1. I flashed my D4S to Anduril, but haven’t got the skills to do the solder work on my D4.

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I finally relented and bought an Emisar D4. got the XPL 5K. Question, if I were to ask nicely, you think Hank would flash Anduril before shipping? Or I’ll just have to figure it out myself on my own?

Anybody in the San Francisco bay area know how?

I like the idea of a stepped option rather than just ramping.

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Probably depends on how long ago you ordered it. Send an email, today, so he'll likely read it when he wakes up. He's been very responsive with me but we started the conversation before I ordered. 

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I apologize if I overlooked it, but does anyone know what Anduril step full regulation is on the D4?

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nick779 wrote:
I apologize if I overlooked it, but does anyone know what Anduril step full regulation is on the D4?

I’m not sure if I understand the question, but maybe the D4 config file has the answer?

https://bazaar.launchpad.net/~toykeeper/flashlight-firmware/fsm/view/hea...

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I was thinking he meant which step level is 7135 with no PWM and no FET drive on.

PocketSammich wrote: I don’t need this, but I want it. Please sign me up.

nick779
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ToyKeeper wrote:
nick779 wrote:
I apologize if I overlooked it, but does anyone know what Anduril step full regulation is on the D4?

I’m not sure if I understand the question, but maybe the D4 config file has the answer?

https://bazaar.launchpad.net/~toykeeper/flashlight-firmware/fsm/view/hea...

Ah, just saw it.
#define MAX_1×7135 65

sbslider wrote:
I was thinking he meant which step level is 7135 with no PWM and no FET drive on.

Yep, this.

I wanted to set the max ramp in Anduril to the highest, fully regulated “step”

So I guess thats 86 clicks. (151-65=86)

Edit: im just wondering, do the SST20s need limited to 80% FET like the 219Cs?

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No, they don’t.

They don’t have as low of a VF, so current is limited already.

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547

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Clip didnt work, had to bend it, but it just snapped. Any good clips, black plz?

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firestorm wrote:
i recently purchased 2 d4ti’s from intl outdoor.. there are slight variations in the manufacturing..

1. the rubber power button is slightly raised on the other light, the one is more recessed.
2. the copper fins on the head is slightly higher than the other one making it much “sharper” to the touch. the other one has more of a “rounded” feel to it.
3. the stainless bezel on the power button are also slightly different. one has a thicker “rim” than the other one.

are these lights CNC machined? why are there slight variations on the physical dimensions of the lights?




UPDATE:

rubber button that is more “recessed” is now slightly unresponsive.. clicks dont register as well as it used to. sometimes when you double click for turbo, the light wont go to turbo. you have to do it again. the clicks are not as “loud” as it used to also.. avoid the ones with recessed rubber switch if possible..

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I just received my new Anduril flashed, tint mixed D4 from Hank. Aside from being downright awesome, I just noticed that my driver has flashing vias. Not sure if ive ever heard or seen these in the wild yet.

https://i.imgur.com/pF9MN3I.jpg Its a tad out of focus, but you get the idea.

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Nice! looks like Hank updated the D4’s driver board to include flashing vias! Thumbs Up

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nick779 wrote:
I just received my new Anduril flashed, tint mixed D4 from Hank. Aside from being downright awesome, I just noticed that my driver has flashing vias. Not sure if ive ever heard or seen these in the wild yet.

https://i.imgur.com/pF9MN3I.jpg Its a tad out of focus, but you get the idea.

That is fantastic news, and I think I will have to get one. The D4 is the most overpowered unmodded light I’ve encountered, so it’s sort of a worst-case scenario for thermal regulation. The ability to reflash it without taking anything apart would be incredibly helpful for thermal testing.

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nick779 wrote:
I just received my new Anduril flashed, tint mixed D4 from Hank. Aside from being downright awesome, I just noticed that my driver has flashing vias. Not sure if ive ever heard or seen these in the wild yet.

https://i.imgur.com/pF9MN3I.jpg Its a tad out of focus, but you get the idea.

You can order a D4 from Hank with Anduril? Or did you flash it yourself?

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I e-mailed Hank tonight asking if he could flash a D4S with Anduril, and how much it would be. He said NO, they are not able to do it.

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MKayze wrote:
nick779 wrote:
I just received my new Anduril flashed, tint mixed D4 from Hank. Aside from being downright awesome, I just noticed that my driver has flashing vias. Not sure if ive ever heard or seen these in the wild yet.

https://i.imgur.com/pF9MN3I.jpg Its a tad out of focus, but you get the idea.

You can order a D4 from Hank with Anduril? Or did you flash it yourself?

Hank did it for me.

saypat wrote:
I e-mailed Hank tonight asking if he could flash a D4S with Anduril, and how much it would be. He said NO, they are not able to do it.

I still find this weird considering it even has vias to flash. Maybe it was just too similar to RampingOSv2 for him to see a reason to do it. Maybe shoot him back an email and ask him if he could do it for like $10?

Id offer to do it, but I killed one by flashing corrupted fuse bits and now that I have 2 working Anduril XP-L HI D4S with calibrated voltage I wont touch them. Im apparently alone in this feat though as TK has never had an issue that im aware of.

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The pos joke instead a clip is still there. Nice.

Hank Wang
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Just add the latest anduril firmware choice for D4

https://intl-outdoor.com, Noctigon, Emisar, flashlight components.

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Fantastic. Hank, I think you’ve just sold me my 3rd D4!

Are they running the version from June 2nd (with the updated lockout moon mode, candle mode and momentary strobes)?

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Klayking wrote:
Are they running the version from June 2nd …?

I’m not sure, but just in case, I sent a link with the latest builds.

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