TK's Emisar D4 review

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Klayking
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XP-L HI 3A, short tube, and I’ll call it the Noisy Cricket. Hand it to muggles in momentary full output mode and watch them get thrown backwards by the recoil.

firestorm
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ToyKeeper wrote:
That looks like the old D4 clip, from before Hank found a better one.

yes.. i was one of the first ones to get the d4, sadly with the old clips as well.. hahahaha

blueb8llz
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My d4 xplhi seems to be only doing 2500 lumens with a 30q. Top of ramp and double clicking gives exact same output. Is there a setting I could have possibly changed where turbo is not 4000+ lumens.

thisnameisvalid
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blueb8llz wrote:
My d4 xplhi seems to be only doing 2500 lumens with a 30q. Top of ramp and double clicking gives exact same output. Is there a setting I could have possibly changed where turbo is not 4000+ lumens.

D4V2 or D4? The D4 uses a much simpler firmware and there’s no way to change the top of ramp brightness; it should be exactly the same as turbo. Is your battery fully charged? It will only put out 4000+ on a fully charged battery

mortuus
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blueb8llz wrote:
My d4 xplhi seems to be only doing 2500 lumens with a 30q. Top of ramp and double clicking gives exact same output. Is there a setting I could have possibly changed where turbo is not 4000+ lumens.

how do u know its not putting out close to 4000 lumens, did u measure it or compared to lights in similar lumens range ? if battery fully charged idk.. can u try a different ?

...where Frugal meets with Flashlight!

BurningPlayd0h
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blueb8llz wrote:
My d4 xplhi seems to be only doing 2500 lumens with a 30q. Top of ramp and double clicking gives exact same output. Is there a setting I could have possibly changed where turbo is not 4000+ lumens.

Set your ramp ceiling to 21 clicks and try the light again.

blueb8llz
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Silly mistake. Battery was not fully charged. But after putting a fully charged battery, I still only got 3000 lumens. I’m getting my numbers just based on a ceiling bounce using my new d4v2 as a reference.
If my new d4v2 sst20 is 4200 lumens I got 500 on my meter. And only 350 with the old d4.
Same cell.
This is at start up.

BurningPlayd0h
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I’m pretty sure higher intensity/candela leads to higher reading with ceiling bounce readings. The SST-20 is throwier/higher candela.

SST-20 w/frosted optic vs XPL HI with clear would be a closer comparison.

pennzy
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Bought my D4 a year ago. Yesterday my pocket clip came out of my pocket in pieces . I don’t use the clip , but it broke just from lying on the couch, must of rolled over on it. Pretty delicate if that is all it takes. I would not rely on it for all that clip the D4 outside the pocket.

pennzy
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Yeah. One of arms broke off.

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No, mine is the newer one. It went on super tight and would not even rotate in the groove.

bquinlan
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Most of the snap-on clips I have tried on various lights have broken fairly quickly. I must be hard on them, but I do think they’re built too thin. That is why I now use ArmyTek Wizard clips on pretty much everything.

The ArmyTek clips are wider and thicker than any others I’ve tried. That means they do not fit into the grooves designed to hold a clip on anyone else’s lights. However, if you ignore that, they stay in place just fine. And I have not managed to break any of them so far.

firestorm
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is it possible to transfer the internals of the D4V2 to the D4ti? if so how? im thinking about updating my d4 to the new UI. and i want the titanium body.

please make the titanium version for the D4V2..

Firelight2
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firestorm wrote:
is it possible to transfer the internals of the D4V2 to the D4ti? if so how? im thinking about updating my d4 to the new UI. and i want the titanium body.

please make the titanium version for the D4V2..

… or you can just stick the D4V2 head on top of the D4V1’s titanium body and tailcap. You get worse thermal management without the copper head. But on the other hand the light is also a lot lighter than with the copper head.

It also makes for a surprisingly attractive looking light:

firestorm
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Firelight2 wrote:
firestorm wrote:
is it possible to transfer the internals of the D4V2 to the D4ti? if so how? im thinking about updating my d4 to the new UI. and i want the titanium body.

please make the titanium version for the D4V2..

… or you can just stick the D4V2 head on top of the D4V1’s titanium body and tailcap. You get worse thermal management without the copper head. But on the other hand the light is also a lot lighter than with the copper head.

It also makes for a surprisingly attractive looking light:
!{width:70%}https://i.imgur.com/CzgPsQw.jpg!

yes but id like the copper heatsink also. just the internals. can anyone show us how to disassemble the d4?

HKSJOSHUA_
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HKSJOSHUA_
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Has anyone used these in a d4v2?

Noticed these are the newest 18350 cells out I believe, I purchased two for 6.fidy

sbslider
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I’m running Vapcell 18350, 1100mAhr, works great in the V1 light. Looks like the same form factor as your cell in the picture above.

PocketSammich wrote: I don’t need this, but I want it. Please sign me up.

HKSJOSHUA_
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I may order two of those vapcells being 1100 mah thanks

OneBadWolf
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My D4 V1 appears to be possessed. I carry it lens up in a holster, and the other day, I smelled something burning.

I took off my jacket, just in time to see my shirt starting to burn. There is a perfectly circular hole in it. I thought perhaps I forgot to 6 click it.

Today however, while changing, I noticed a white light coming from my pants, which I had laid on the bed, the light was on, and hot enough to be painful trying to remove it from the holster, to shut it off.

It wouldn’t shut off. I had to back off the tail cap. I set it on my desk, and when cool, screwed the tailcap back on.

It will randomly turn itself on, sometimes a full power flash, sometimes dim, it has even ramped up and down. I tried to check/reset the thermal management, but 10 clicks, it just stays off.

This is new behavior for it, I use Sony VTC6 batts in it for the year and a half I’ve had it, never a problem. If anybody has a fix, I’d appreciate it. It’s not practical to have to twist the tailcap on to use the light, but its no longer safe to carry. I’ve cleaned & inspected it regularly, Maybe those many drops have added up. Ideas?

lionheart_2281
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OneBadWolf wrote:
My D4 V1 appears to be possessed. I carry it lens up in a holster, and the other day, I smelled something burning.

I took off my jacket, just in time to see my shirt starting to burn. There is a perfectly circular hole in it. I thought perhaps I forgot to 6 click it.

Today however, while changing, I noticed a white light coming from my pants, which I had laid on the bed, the light was on, and hot enough to be painful trying to remove it from the holster, to shut it off.

It wouldn’t shut off. I had to back off the tail cap. I set it on my desk, and when cool, screwed the tailcap back on.

It will randomly turn itself on, sometimes a full power flash, sometimes dim, it has even ramped up and down. I tried to check/reset the thermal management, but 10 clicks, it just stays off.

This is new behavior for it, I use Sony VTC6 batts in it for the year and a half I’ve had it, never a problem. If anybody has a fix, I’d appreciate it. It’s not practical to have to twist the tailcap on to use the light, but its no longer safe to carry. I’ve cleaned & inspected it regularly, Maybe those many drops have added up. Ideas?

I’m not a modder but I can certainly say without hesitation that I mechanically lock mine out whenever I carry in my pocket (after burning a hole in a pair of jeans)

ToyKeeper
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OneBadWolf wrote:
My D4 V1 appears to be possessed. … This is new behavior … Ideas?

It’s pretty rare, but it seems that sometimes the D4 can end up with the switch wires shorted, which makes it think the button is being held when it’s not. I encountered this issue once on one of mine, and I fixed it be replacing a switch wire and being extra careful when putting the driver back in. Before that though, it would sometimes detect button presses when there were none.

Just to be sure, you have an original model with RampingIOS, right? (so 6 clicks for lockout, 8 clicks for beacon mode)

In more recent firmware, there is code to detect a stuck button and respond in a manner which is more safe. The original didn’t have that, though.

Would you be willing to run some tests, to help diagnose the issue?

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