Problems with Everybuying/Utorch UT01

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Deputydave
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Problems with Everybuying/Utorch UT01

I purchased a Utorch UT01 from Everbuying. First time I’ve ordered from them and they had the best price at the time. Took exactly 30 days to arrive from the time it shipped. A little longer than I expected but that’s fine I suppose. Arrived yesterday. Tried four different batteries (two 14500 and two AA, one was an alk and the other an Eneloop). I know the batteries worked as I pre-tested all of them in my Nitecore EA11. None of the 14500’s worked. The AA alk worked for about 30 seconds but the light did not have all the modes. Then it just stopped working all together. Tried swapping out batteries, making sure it was screwed on tight etc. Nothing. Tried it again this morning and nothing. So that kinda sucks.

Contacted EB last night about the problem. Well there response was to try another battery and take a picture of the problem. Facepalm

So I responded that I had already indicated that I tried multiple batteries, that work in other lights. And that a picture of a non-working flashlight looks exactly like a picture of a working flashlight that isn’t turned on. And that I didn’t appreciate the stall tactic.

Anyway, I also contacted them separately through PP and I have till 8/4 to dispute. We’ll see where this goes. Has anyone else had an issue with the UT01 and/or EB?

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Streamer
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I think Deputydave has more problems than just a “protected 14500 battery not fitting” properly. \

Apparently he got a WONKY sample light.

He has problems with the Eneloop and Alkaline also.

Hope you get a properly working replacement Depdave.

Jerommel
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Sorry about that, i removed my comment, i didn’t read the OP too well. Facepalm

Everbuying should send you a replacement.
If you can, sending a video would probably help.

Looking for:

5” parabolic reflector (for recoil light)

jf_smm
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Sounds like the cruddy UT01 e-switch strikes again. I got two of these awhile ago, one works one doesn’t. Went through another vendor and I had to do a video too. I made sure they could 1)hear the switch click but not respond and 2)see the cell working in another light/removed/inserted into the UT01 so that there was no doubt that the light was DOA.

Good Luck, hopefully the next one has a good switch, when they work they’re cool little lights.

Sean

BLightSam
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How (and what) does a video show (or prove) of not working light?

My responses have been to ask them close eyes and then open, and state that they just viewed a video of not working light.

Lexel
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In case of the dead Klarus lights fortunately the people who did videos had the advantage of a charge indicator LED below the switch
also with my dead XT11GT I could simply show a picture from the half molten springs, they even didnt ask for a video then
months later I got total of 3 dead XT11/12GT lights from german TLF guys which I repaired with Narsil and XPL HI NW one was fine without molten springs
one had a lot worse molten springs than the other even the plastic in the tail cap was half molten and the crispy smell of those light will be there even in 10 years

but for a dead Imalent light I had I made a video pulling the Battery from my charger
When the tailcap made contact to the tube the light blinks 1 times as the bleeder need a few ms to power the tailcap MCU on which shuts down the light to standby
from there I could show that clicking the switch did nothing at all

and Gearbest shipping me an Utorch UT01 in NW, the box labeled NW, but the flashlight had a CW LED Facepalm
last Order from digikey I ordered a replacement switch for it just in case it breaks

oto
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My experience with Everbying and faulty Utorch UT01 is described here:
http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1082578#comment-1082578
Long story short – I shot the video and got refund.

Jerommel
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BLightSam wrote:
How (and what) does a video show (or prove) of not working light?
It can show you try but it doesn’t work properly or at all.
Quote:

My responses have been to ask them close eyes and then open, and state that they just viewed a video of not working light.

Good luck with that..

Looking for:

5” parabolic reflector (for recoil light)

Jerommel
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oto wrote:
My experience with Everbying and faulty Utorch UT01 is described here:
http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1082578#comment-1082578
Long story short – I shot the video and got refund.

Anyone can claim a light is not working, so they request you to show what’s wrong with it.
Sounds reasonable to me.

Looking for:

5” parabolic reflector (for recoil light)

BLightSam
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Jerommel wrote:
BLightSam wrote:
How (and what) does a video show (or prove) of not working light?
It can show you try but it doesn’t work properly or at all.
By a video showing you press the switch?
Jerommel
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BLightSam wrote:
Jerommel wrote:
BLightSam wrote:
How (and what) does a video show (or prove) of not working light?
It can show you try but it doesn’t work properly or at all.
By a video showing you press the switch?

Yes. You show what’s wrong, you show you use a charged battery too.
Usually someone goes back to the shop where the item was purchased when it’s not working properly, and then you can show what’s wrong.
Do you think you can go back to a flashlight shop with a picture?
Or would you say “Close your eyes” to them? Smile
You choose to buy cheap from abroad, so you’ll have to produce some reasonable evidence for a problem the item may have, if you want a replacement or a refund.
Otherwise folks could just claim away as they please and receive a 2nd item for free.
And i bet many people try that trick too.
How would you feel about that if you were the seller?
It’s common sense that you have to produce evidence of the problems when they ask you to show what’s wrong.
I think Paypal will agree with that too.

Looking for:

5” parabolic reflector (for recoil light)

Deputydave
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Well, I didn’t have to provide a pic or vid. They just emailed me the resolution; keep the light and they’re going to refund the full price to my PP. Acceptable. Shame it didn’t work though.

I’m figuring it’s the driver that’s the problem? As I mentioned, the 30 seconds it did work, it didn’t go through all of the modes (no turbo). Then nothing at all. Maybe the switch, but I’m thinking driver? I don’t know off hand what size or kind of driver it takes. Any thoughts on that are welcome. Don’t know anything about changing a switch though.

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Jerommel
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Well, that’s nice of them (i.m.h.o.)
Maybe this topic helped a little too.

it could be the switch, but sounds more like the driver is faulty.

Looking for:

5” parabolic reflector (for recoil light)

jf_smm
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Jerommel wrote:
Well, that’s nice of them (i.m.h.o.)
Maybe this topic helped a little too.

it could be the switch, but sounds more like the driver is faulty.

Maybe…this is similar to what my first UT01 did. I ran it through the UI cycle once or twice without a real problem if memory serves me. Then the short clicks started not changing anything. After a few more minutes only long clicks would work and even then I was pushing in different directions just to get “contact” on the long clicks. The last long click turned the light on but I ended up having to unscrew the tailcap because it wouldn’t turn off again no matter how I pushed on the switch. There are dozens of similar stories on the UT01 thread from last year. There was even a suggested replacement switch but I don’t think I read where anyone made the change and no tear down that I’ve seen so far.

That said, big fat guess on my part that’s worth nada without seeing the OP’s light. Smile

Deputydave
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Well, I did a search back through that 8 page UT01 thread. So many faulty switches got me curious. I put another alky battery in the UT01 and using my thumb nail I really pressed down into the switch…it worked…mostly. What I mean is that it did work, but not consistently. Not something I would rely on as an EDC light. I’ve done some light modding as far as replacing stars and drivers but have no experience with switches. I took the boot cover off and see the little button down inside. I took a small screwdriver and I’m able to cycle through the modes. I’m trying to figure out something that I can place into the housing, over the small button and then replace the boot cover to see if it can be made consistent. Trying to figure out what is small enough that I can give it a try.

I found out the switch is a TL 3340 if I need to replace. Does anyone have a good source for this switch? And does anyone know of a good video that would guide me through replacing the switch? I’ll try the jury rig first, but would still like to know where I can get a replacement switch and good instruction on how to replace it if possible and if needed.

Thank you Smile

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I got mine 2 days ago and I has tha same problem that the switch is faulty. It only do something when Ipress harder. If not I can click it all day long and doing nothing.
I writed this to gearbest. I will wait for their reply. If I got a replacement light or refund I will buy a switch and make some photos or video of the replacing. I can do soldering well so I think it is doable. I think to get the driver out you need to remove bezel, reflector. Unsolder led wires. Remove body tube and then pull out driver. When I remove the tube the driver is moving a little so no glue or any hard stuff holding it in just the wires and the tube.

Edit:
The Nokia 6120 classic phone I think has the same switch for volume control and I found some on aliexpress. I’m not 100% sure but for this price I will give it a try and order 3 buttons.

BLightSam
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@Jerommel,

I refuse to do that for a $4.49 flashlight, for example.
Doesn’t honesty count anymore?

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Well, the juries still out…

However, I showed the switch to my wife with the boot cover removed. She makes jewelry so I figured she might have something small enough to place over the switch that would allow the boot cover to have a better connection. She had a very small bead that was flat on both sides that fit pretty much perfectly on top of the switch but was wide enough that it shouldn’t shift too much. I replaced the boot and it now works as it’s suppose to work. I say the jury is out as I want to use it for a while to make sure this simple fix is actually a long term solution. The boot is no longer flat on top, it is slightly raised in the center, but not that much really. I don’t ‘think’ that it’s going to cause any issues with accidentally being activated but the proof is in actually carrying and using it. So we’ll see…

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Lowtech
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Is it not just a problem that the switch has moved somehow? A lack of support behind it?

ZozzV6
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Mine is brand new. It has this behaviour since first power on.

SIGShooter
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Deputydave wrote:
Well, the juries still out…

However, I showed the switch to my wife with the boot cover removed. She makes jewelry so I figured she might have something small enough to place over the switch that would allow the boot cover to have a better connection. She had a very small bead that was flat on both sides that fit pretty much perfectly on top of the switch but was wide enough that it shouldn’t shift too much. I replaced the boot and it now works as it’s suppose to work. I say the jury is out as I want to use it for a while to make sure this simple fix is actually a long term solution. The boot is no longer flat on top, it is slightly raised in the center, but not that much really. I don’t ‘think’ that it’s going to cause any issues with accidentally being activated but the proof is in actually carrying and using it. So we’ll see…


Did you try to center the switch? Evidently it can come off-centered causing issues like the one you’re experiencing. It’s covered in this thread. This is the fix per post #518.

————— snipped from post #518 ————————
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OK, fixed my switch issue.
What was happening was the switch boot nub was catching on that flat ledge around the switch contact pad.
So all you have to do is remove the switch boot, very easy to do.
Check the switch by directly pressing on the switch contact and go through all your modes and on/off, check double click, check everything and if all your modes are working fine then it’s probably not centered and catching on that ledge, you should be able to notice easy enough.
So being that the driver, switch and MCPCB are all one piece, just get some very fine tweezers and inside the positive end of the driver take the tweezers like you where going to remove a regular retainer ring, and just slightly turn the complete driver assembly one way or the other until it looks centered and put the boot back in, it’s very easy to put in since that retainer isn’t really pressed down hard onto the lip of the boot.
And done,
Hope that helps someone, these are really great lights no matter what.

Thank You George, what’s next ??

Edit: By the way the reflector is threaded and mine had a small dap of glue on it, might be wise to remove reflector prior to twisting on the driver end..

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Looking inside the assembly, the switch looked like it was dead center.

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SIGShooter
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Deputydave wrote:
Looking inside the assembly, the switch looked like it was dead center.

Too bad in a way as that would be an easy fix Sad
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There was also speculation that, even with a well centered switch, the material the switch boot was made of was too soft to make consistent contact. This really made me curious about how the “bead fix” might pan out.

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So far so good. I’m playing around with it throughout the day to put some ‘reps’ on it. May just be the ticket I hope. Just had to find the right sized object to fit between the switch button and the boot.

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BLightSam wrote:
Jerommel wrote:
BLightSam wrote:
How (and what) does a video show (or prove) of not working light?
It can show you try but it doesn’t work properly or at all.
By a video showing you press the switch?

Yeah. I bought a ~25buk green laser from FT. DOA. Reported it, “take video”, got replacement (my choice, vs refund). Another DOA. Same dealy, video, but refunded no problem. Sent back both, got credited the postage both times. Yay, FT! No grief, no haggling, no “how’bout 5bux and you keep the DOA laser”, nothing. Full refund for the cost and 2× postage.

I’m thinking now that some lasers require the cell to be installed backwards, ie, pointy end of the cell towards the tail, not towards the head. Never described anywhere, didn’t want to pop the driver (or cell) if something would short out if reverse-polarised, so never tried that. But never even knew of that possibility back when I bought it.

Anyhoo, the video showed me (one-handed!) dropping an 18350 into the tube, thumb’n‘forefinger trying to screw on the tailcap, then aiming the laser at a white napkin and repeatedly clicking it to show no output. 30sec or so.

(One-handed ‘cause I had to hold the phone-camera with my other hand. Silly )

09 F9 11 02 9D 74 E3 5B D8 41 56 C5 63 56 88 C0

Deputydave
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Well I got my PP refund today, full refund. The bead fix still seems to be taking care of the problem.

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