[Q] About Liitokala 35A (NCR18650GA based) and other battery tips

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Persechini
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[Q] About Liitokala 35A (NCR18650GA based) and other battery tips

It’s hard to get decent priced cells shipped to Brasil, but I’ve found that Liitokala’s Aliexpress shop does fulfill those requirements.

My questions are:

  • Are those really GA based cells?
  • Are they cut for the Concept 1 turbo (actual 10A constant discharge even protected) or should I go for an unprotected IMR?

Context:
I’m looking to buy a few 18650 batteries to use as my daily drivers (mostly S2+ and C8). I’m interested in the NCR18650GA for the high capacity + discharge capacity able to use with the Nitecore Concept 1, which I will use occasionally, plus a triple nichia that I will test with a FET+7135 driver. The FET I think I’ll ultimately switch for a 7135 driver with 3ish max amp because I’m aiming for it to be my camping light and I’m not huge on eating through multiple batteries per night.

If there are any advice on batteries that differ a lot from this, please don’t be shy about suggesting it Wink

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SoCalTiger
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I do not know if the Liitokala is really an NCR18650GA. However, the GA’s are only rated for 10A continuous which would not leave any headroom for use in the Concept 1. If you want to use a light capable of 10A continuous then you probably want an IMR. Another option is the Samsung 30Q which is rated for 15A continuous.

The GA would be fine in the S2+ and C8 though as long as you aren’t modding them to super high amps.

EasyB
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Does the concept 1 actually pull around 10A from the cell? In any case it won’t be a continuous 10A discharge so I think the GA would work fine. The flashlight would have to step down way before the cell temperature would get too high.

Edit: a triple nichia 219C will pull a lot more than 10A. This will not be continuous, either, and probably will not hurt the GA cell, but it would not be my first choice for a high current light like that.

Persechini
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The Concept 1 manual states that it needs an IMR battery OR a battery capable off more than 8A discharge to actually reach the 1800 lumens, otherwise it’s speced a little lower. My keeppower cells (based on ncr18650b) sometimes turn of while on turbo, sometimes don’t. My nitecore cell (which is supposed to also be ncr18650b) never shut down on me (diferences in the protection, maybe?), but all of them start stepping down from turbo in a matter of 2 or 3 seconds, reaching high mode in about 20 seconds.

The ncr18650ga seems like a good middle point between imr and my current cells, provided it will sustain turbo for more than a few seconds, and they are cheap enough in this store that I would by a few pieces. Otherwise, I would buy one keepower IMR for a bit more money and use my current cells for everything else

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Barkuti
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Both a high discharge cell like an INR18650-30Q plus a good low-resistance quality switch (bypassed springs too) ensure maximum turbo for the Innocent shortest time if heat is not a problem (higher discharge rate = lesser battery life). 

 

Posted originally on: Thu, 07/27/2017 - 01:16; error fix.

Persechini
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Well, the concept of a cold night in Brasil is quite different than from the US/europe, so temperature is a problem, the flashlight will not be cooling that fast on the wind . The Concept 1 turbo is not meant to be on a lot, but 1 to 3 second bursts is kinda ridiculous. I checked ou the 30q and liked it better than the keeppower IMR I had in mind. Will not bypassing the sprints reduce the overall heat on a FET driver by reducing current or simply heat up other parts of the circuit?

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Barkuti
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Persechini wrote:
Well, the concept of a cold night in Brasil is quite different than from the US/europe, so temperature is a problem, Will not bypassing the sprints reduce the overall heat on a FET driver by reducing current or simply heat up other parts of the circuit?

Both in USA and EU there are very hot regions; where I live, for example.

Every bit of resistance counts in an unregulated flashlight. If you optimize the springs you'll reduce their resistance, which means the overall resistance gets reduced, resulting in higher current flow. What is more, as every bit drops an amount of voltage proportional to its resistance, you can understand reducing the resistance of a single piece will result in higher voltage drop in the remaining parts.

Recapping: less resistance = higher current = higher heat output.

I prefer regulated drivers. A powerful direct drive build needs careful assessment or you risk blowing things up.

 

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Antenne
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Four weeks ago I searched at Gearbest for Button Top cells, because Banggood wasn’t able to deliver to Germany. Finally, I’ve ordered 4 pcs. of Liitokala Lii-35A and was hoping for GA’s. (https://www.gearbest.com/batteries/pp_677241.html?wid=21) I was planning to use them for the BLF Q8, because they supposed to be NCR18650GA and Gearbest sold them as “Button Top”. But- they are NOT (anymore?). The cells I’ve got early September are flat top, I can only use them in other lights. Fortunately, I was able to order at Banggood in the meantime and got 4 pcs. of 30Q with the transport box delivered. So I’m ready for the Q8, which is already shipped.

BOMBAY
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This site claims to be samsung INR18650-35e – http://www.liitokala.com.cn/productView.asp?id=430

I think yes, I have their flat top

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The Samsung INR18650-35E is the greatest of the “35s”, though I would hardly qualify it as a “33” (1C discharge down to 2.8V). 

 

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BOMBAY
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Thanks, my set is also 3300mAh
tested lii-35a is 3268mAh, 3287mAh, 3299mAh, 3345mAh (test with lii-500), resistance 25mR- 30mR